Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Did my LBS hose my crown race??

Started by TomYoung · · Last activity · 9 posts · 518 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
25 November 2006
Last activity
27 November 2006
Original author
TomYoung
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
518
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–9 of 9
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. "Back in the day" of 1-inch steering tubes and loose-ball headsets
    I always installed my own crown races. But I gave up and took the
    crown race to my 1-1/8" threadless headset to the LBS for
    installation on the fork. I did so for a couple of reasons: 1)
    couldn't find any pipe, tube, etc. at the local hardware store that
    matched the diameter of the top edge of the crown race and, 2) this
    crown race came up to a knife's edge at its top instead of the nice
    ledge I used to see on my 1-inch races. I just couldn't see how
    any tool was going to press nicely against that knife's edge without
    messing it up.

    At the LBS I've never seen a "mechanic" hit a bicycle part as
    hard as this guy slammed into the crown race, trying to get it to seat.
    He did this for 4 or 5 minutes until he was satisfied. Said the race
    was "really tight."

    After getting the fork home and looking it over more closely I see that
    the race is pretty badly scarred for most of its circumference about
    1/3 of the way down from its top edge. This would be right in the area
    the ball bearings would rest if this were a loose-ball headset. When I
    took the fork back to the shop and asked the manager about the damage
    to the race he said he wouldn't know if it was a problem until I put
    everything together.

    Since it's going to be a while until things get assembled I ask the
    question: if a crown race is considerably scarred (enough of a scar to
    catch a fingernail) for a good part of its circumference about 1/3 of
    the way down its "sloped" area, should this present a problem to a
    modern cartridge bearing headset?

    TIA.

    Tom Young

  2. TomYoung said:

    "Back in the day" of 1-inch steering tubes and loose-ball headsets
    I always installed my own crown races. But I gave up and took the
    crown race to my 1-1/8" threadless headset to the LBS for
    installation on the fork. I did so for a couple of reasons: 1)
    couldn't find any pipe, tube, etc. at the local hardware store that
    matched the diameter of the top edge of the crown race and, 2) this
    crown race came up to a knife's edge at its top instead of the nice
    ledge I used to see on my 1-inch races. I just couldn't see how
    any tool was going to press nicely against that knife's edge without
    messing it up.

    At the LBS I've never seen a "mechanic" hit a bicycle part as
    hard as this guy slammed into the crown race, trying to get it to seat.
    He did this for 4 or 5 minutes until he was satisfied. Said the race
    was "really tight."

    After getting the fork home and looking it over more closely I see that
    the race is pretty badly scarred for most of its circumference about
    1/3 of the way down from its top edge. This would be right in the area
    the ball bearings would rest if this were a loose-ball headset. When I
    took the fork back to the shop and asked the manager about the damage
    to the race he said he wouldn't know if it was a problem until I put
    everything together.

    Since it's going to be a while until things get assembled I ask the
    question: if a crown race is considerably scarred (enough of a scar to
    catch a fingernail) for a good part of its circumference about 1/3 of
    the way down its "sloped" area, should this present a problem to a
    modern cartridge bearing headset?

    TIA.

    Tom Young

    Yes, this could easily give problems, and the wrench almost certainly
    messed up. What headset is this? Aluminum crown race?

    This is for your LHT fork, correct? Surly forks usually have quite a
    bit of excess powder coat all over the crown race seating area that
    needs to be taken off, usually with sandpaper, a knife, or something.
    Out of 5 LHT's I've dealt with, it's been there on all of them I think.
    That could have caused the tightness. This is something that the wrench
    should have noticed before installing the race. I could easily imagine
    the coat bunching up and not allowing the crown race to seat fully if
    it wasn't taken off first, also. Even if the damage to the race wasn't
    going to cause any problems, the alignment of the race is very suspect
    if this is the case.

  3. Nate Knutson said:
    TomYoung said:

    "Back in the day" of 1-inch steering tubes and loose-ball headsets
    I always installed my own crown races. But I gave up and took the
    crown race to my 1-1/8" threadless headset to the LBS for
    installation on the fork. I did so for a couple of reasons: 1)
    couldn't find any pipe, tube, etc. at the local hardware store that
    matched the diameter of the top edge of the crown race and, 2) this
    crown race came up to a knife's edge at its top instead of the nice
    ledge I used to see on my 1-inch races. I just couldn't see how
    any tool was going to press nicely against that knife's edge without
    messing it up.

    At the LBS I've never seen a "mechanic" hit a bicycle part as
    hard as this guy slammed into the crown race, trying to get it to seat.
    He did this for 4 or 5 minutes until he was satisfied. Said the race
    was "really tight."

    After getting the fork home and looking it over more closely I see that
    the race is pretty badly scarred for most of its circumference about
    1/3 of the way down from its top edge. This would be right in the area
    the ball bearings would rest if this were a loose-ball headset. When I
    took the fork back to the shop and asked the manager about the damage
    to the race he said he wouldn't know if it was a problem until I put
    everything together.

    Since it's going to be a while until things get assembled I ask the
    question: if a crown race is considerably scarred (enough of a scar to
    catch a fingernail) for a good part of its circumference about 1/3 of
    the way down its "sloped" area, should this present a problem to a
    modern cartridge bearing headset?

    TIA.

    Tom Young

    Yes, this could easily give problems, and the wrench almost certainly
    messed up. What headset is this? Aluminum crown race?

    This is for your LHT fork, correct? Surly forks usually have quite a
    bit of excess powder coat all over the crown race seating area that
    needs to be taken off, usually with sandpaper, a knife, or something.

    I had the same thing with my Soma fork. I scraped a lot of paint off
    before I could get the crown race started.

    Grerg

    --
    "All my time I spent in heaven
    Revelries of dance and wine
    Waking to the sound of laughter
    Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons

  4. http://www.chrisking.com/pdfs/Int%20Headsets%20Explained.pdf

    --
    DTW .../\.../\.../\...

  5. Before installing a crown race, the crown race seat must be cleaned to
    bare metal, milled to the appropriate size and greased. When the fork
    is properly prepped, the crown race seats with a few light taps and does
    not need to be slammed down. A competent mechanic uses crown race
    cutter of the appropriate size to ensure this is the case, removing
    paint overspray and any excess metal. This step seems to have been
    skipped, from the OP's description.

    It doesn't sound to me that the OP's mechanic was competent, from the
    description given. Nor does it sound as though the shop manager is
    competent. If it was my fork, I would demand that they replace the
    crown race at their cost. If they don't I would make it clear that they
    will never, ever have my business again and that I would warn every
    cyclist I meet away from their incompetent shop.

  6. Tim McNamara said:

    Before installing a crown race, the crown race seat must be cleaned to
    bare metal, milled to the appropriate size and greased. When the fork
    is properly prepped, the crown race seats with a few light taps and does
    not need to be slammed down. A competent mechanic uses crown race
    cutter of the appropriate size to ensure this is the case, removing
    paint overspray and any excess metal. This step seems to have been
    skipped, from the OP's description.

    It doesn't sound to me that the OP's mechanic was competent, from the
    description given. Nor does it sound as though the shop manager is
    competent. If it was my fork, I would demand that they replace the
    crown race at their cost. If they don't I would make it clear that they
    will never, ever have my business again and that I would warn every
    cyclist I meet away from their incompetent shop.

    Seriously, even if they do "make this right," would you seriously
    consider giving these butchers any new business? It's clear to me this
    shop has no concept of what a crown race cutter/mill is.

    I'd just hightail out of there and count myself lucky that they didn't
    do any additional really serious damage.

  7. In article <[email hidden]>,

    damyth said:
    Tim McNamara said:

    Before installing a crown race, the crown race seat must be cleaned
    to bare metal, milled to the appropriate size and greased. When
    the fork is properly prepped, the crown race seats with a few light
    taps and does not need to be slammed down. A competent mechanic
    uses crown race cutter of the appropriate size to ensure this is
    the case, removing paint overspray and any excess metal. This step
    seems to have been skipped, from the OP's description.

    It doesn't sound to me that the OP's mechanic was competent, from
    the description given. Nor does it sound as though the shop
    manager is competent. If it was my fork, I would demand that they
    replace the crown race at their cost. If they don't I would make
    it clear that they will never, ever have my business again and that
    I would warn every cyclist I meet away from their incompetent shop.

    Seriously, even if they do "make this right," would you seriously
    consider giving these butchers any new business? It's clear to me
    this shop has no concept of what a crown race cutter/mill is.

    I'd just hightail out of there and count myself lucky that they
    didn't do any additional really serious damage.

    LOL! OK, you do make excellent points. I always feel fortunate that
    (1) I have the skills to do these things and (2) I know people who own
    the occasionally-needed tools that I don't. I don't have to depend on
    hamfists like the OP's LBS to get stuff done. Whew!

  8. TomYoung said:

    "Back in the day" of 1-inch steering tubes and loose-ball headsets
    I always installed my own crown races. But I gave up and took the
    crown race to my 1-1/8" threadless headset to the LBS for
    installation on the fork. I did so for a couple of reasons: 1)
    couldn't find any pipe, tube, etc. at the local hardware store that
    matched the diameter of the top edge of the crown race and, 2) this
    crown race came up to a knife's edge at its top instead of the nice
    ledge I used to see on my 1-inch races. I just couldn't see how
    any tool was going to press nicely against that knife's edge without
    messing it up.

    At the LBS I've never seen a "mechanic" hit a bicycle part as
    hard as this guy slammed into the crown race, trying to get it to seat.
    He did this for 4 or 5 minutes until he was satisfied. Said the race
    was "really tight."

    After getting the fork home and looking it over more closely I see that
    the race is pretty badly scarred for most of its circumference about
    1/3 of the way down from its top edge. This would be right in the area
    the ball bearings would rest if this were a loose-ball headset. When I
    took the fork back to the shop and asked the manager about the damage
    to the race he said he wouldn't know if it was a problem until I put
    everything together.

    Since it's going to be a while until things get assembled I ask the
    question: if a crown race is considerably scarred (enough of a scar to
    catch a fingernail) for a good part of its circumference about 1/3 of
    the way down its "sloped" area, should this present a problem to a
    modern cartridge bearing headset?

    TIA.

    Tom Young

    ONLY tool that can install fork crown races w/o gooning them up is the
    park tool. I'll bet this guy didn't use this or even an old FCR, turned
    upside down..poor form, they owe you a FCR.

  9. TomYoung said:

    "Back in the day" of 1-inch steering tubes and loose-ball headsets
    I always installed my own crown races. ...

    He hosed it.

    I had a shop do that to my wife's bike installing a Chris King. Then
    they had the balls to tell me that the race was warped when it arrived.
    The tyro who tried the install also deformed the dropouts while trying
    to pound the race on, which I didn't discover until I reassembled the
    bike (after obtaining a replacement race and having the install
    performed by a shop with a mechanic with the tools to mill the crown so
    the race would fit).

    Check everything out on the fork, get satisfaction from the shop that
    hosed the headset, and take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

    Cheers,

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.