Just purchased a second set of wheels and cassette (chorus 12-25). I thoroughly enjoy doing my own work on the bike and would like to purchase the appropriate tools to finish this one up. I am square on the lockring tool but have a question on the chainwhip.
Since I am not going to shell out the big $$$ on the campy chain whip tool, I am looking at the Park SR-2. Will this tool work as-is on campy 10-spd or are changes required to work with the narrow cogs?
they seem these days to advertise 9speed and 10speed versions. chain whips are very low tech pieces of hardware and i've never seen one fail to work on a particular drive chain combination. so in my opinion you'll be fine buying the park one.
I'll second that, in fact, I use a cheapo one I bought from Performance Bike on my Record 10 sp and it works fine...same for the removal splined nut thingy...
sideshow_bob said:
they seem these days to advertise 9speed and 10speed versions. chain whips are very low tech pieces of hardware and i've never seen one fail to work on a particular drive chain combination. so in my opinion you'll be fine buying the park one.
Just purchased a second set of wheels and cassette (chorus 12-25). I thoroughly enjoy doing my own work on the bike and would like to purchase the appropriate tools to finish this one up. I am square on the lockring tool but have a question on the chainwhip.
Since I am not going to shell out the big $$$ on the campy chain whip tool, I am looking at the Park SR-2. Will this tool work as-is on campy 10-spd or are changes required to work with the narrow cogs?
Thanks
I use the same Nashbar cheapo chain whip that I have had in my tool box for over 10 years. Works fine with 9s/10s Shimano, Campy, Miche, SRAM cassettes. I had planned on switching the length of chain to a piece of 9s or 10s chain but found that the old 6s piece on their works fine.
since the pin-to-pin distance is the same on all road chains (at least for 1/2" pitch), any chainwhip will work if you use it on the largest cog of the cassette.
This doesn't make for the best alignment with the wrench/tool to unscrew the lockring. But that's reasonably easy to fix - you'll find it's possible to tilt the wrenches to line up with each other. This allows you to use the sissors method of loosening the lockring which is pretty safe and foolproof (you cross the handles of the two tools and use your hands to unscrew one against the other).
I use Park tools for my lockrings and chainwhips. And cone wrenches. However, I spent the money to get a Campy 10s chain tool. Well worth the peace of mind.