Recommended torque wrenches?

I got a 3/8" drive clicker-type from Sears and it has done everything I needed...especially getting
the correct torque on the bottom bracket and cranks.

Frank

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote message news:4npkb.590960$cF.258729@rwcrnsc53...

Quoted message said:

I've been researching torque wrenches for use in building up a new bike,

and

Quoted message said:

it seems to me that if you want to be accurate about torque settings, you really need two
torque wrenches, one for lower-torque parts such as brake cable and chainring bolts, and one
for higher-torque parts such as cranks and bottom brackets. Those with finer increments tend to
top off at

anywhere

Quoted message said:

from 60-250 inch/pounds, and those that work at higher torques tend to

have

Quoted message said:

increments that are too far apart to be useful for lower torque settings.

I realize that not everyone uses, or believes in using, torque wrenches

for

Quoted message said:

bicycles. But for those who do use them, or at least recommend their use

by

Quoted message said:

less experienced home mechanics such as myself, would you agree that it's better to have 2
wrenches, and if so which ones would you recommend for

each

Quoted message said:

range? Are the 2 Park wrenches ok, or are there better ones available that are not too expensive
(<$100 per)?

Alternatively, are there any reasonably affordable wrenches that work well for the entire range of
torque settings needed for most road bikes?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

I was in a Sears today and saw a $70 "clicker" model that I liked but which only went up to
250inch/pounds, which isn't high enough for higher-torque components like bottom brackets and
cranks. There were models that went up to 75foot/pounds, but they didn't seem precise enough for
lower-torque components. Does you model work for the full torque spectrum? Which one do you have,
and how much did it cost?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"frank121" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:QAqkb.3294$B_2.630@okepread02...

Quoted message said:

I got a 3/8" drive clicker-type from Sears and it has done everything I needed...especially
getting the correct torque on the bottom bracket and cranks.

Frank

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote message news:4npkb.590960$cF.258729@rwcrnsc53...

Quoted message said:

I've been researching torque wrenches for use in building up a new bike,

and

Quoted message said:

it seems to me that if you want to be accurate about torque settings,

you

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

really need two torque wrenches, one for lower-torque parts such as

brake

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

cable and chainring bolts, and one for higher-torque parts such as

cranks

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and bottom brackets. Those with finer increments tend to top off at

anywhere

Quoted message said:

from 60-250 inch/pounds, and those that work at higher torques tend to

have

Quoted message said:

increments that are too far apart to be useful for lower torque

settings.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I realize that not everyone uses, or believes in using, torque wrenches

for

Quoted message said:

bicycles. But for those who do use them, or at least recommend their use

by

Quoted message said:

less experienced home mechanics such as myself, would you agree that

it's

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

better to have 2 wrenches, and if so which ones would you recommend for

each

Quoted message said:

range? Are the 2 Park wrenches ok, or are there better ones available

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

are not too expensive (<$100 per)?

Alternatively, are there any reasonably affordable wrenches that work

well

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for the entire range of torque settings needed for most road bikes?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:ulrkb.813045$YN5.824152@sccrnsc01...

Quoted message said:

I was in a Sears today and saw a $70 "clicker" model that I liked but

which

Quoted message said:

only went up to 250inch/pounds, which isn't high enough for higher-torque components like bottom
brackets and cranks. There were models that went up to 75foot/pounds, but they didn't seem precise
enough for lower-torque components. Does you model work for the full torque spectrum? Which one do
you have, and how much did it cost?

--

I have that 250in/lb micrometer adj. torque wrench from Sears for the low end like stem bolts, disc
brake calipers, etc. For BB, cranks I have their bending beam pointer type 75 ft/lb. wrench which is
about $25 at Sears. So get both.

Mike

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Michael Dart
"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:ulrkb.813045$YN5.824152@sccrnsc01...

Quoted message said:

I was in a Sears today and saw a $70 "clicker" model that I liked but

which

Quoted message said:

only went up to 250inch/pounds, which isn't high enough for higher-torque components like bottom
brackets and cranks. There were models that went up to 75foot/pounds, but they didn't seem precise
enough for lower-torque components. Does you model work for the full torque spectrum? Which one do
you have, and how much did it cost?

--

I have that 250in/lb micrometer adj. torque wrench from Sears for the low end like stem bolts, disc
brake calipers, etc. For BB, cranks I have their bending beam


I agree with Michael Dart on getting 2 to give coverage in the ranges involved.
Your budget and what packages you get will dictate which 2.
Park Tools makes a nice set of bits/sockets/open-ends/hex that mate with their torque wrenches.
Take a look at what is available in drive sizing to mate with the wrenches you choose. This will guide you selection.











pointer type 75 ft/lb. wrench which is
about $25 at Sears. So get both.

Mike

Kovie' may have said:

I realize that not everyone uses, or believes in using, torque wrenches for bicycles. But for those
who do use them, or at least recommend their use by less experienced home mechanics such as myself,
would you agree that it's better to have 2 wrenches,

Yes.

Quoted message said:

and if so which ones would you recommend for each range?

Bearing in mind that some of the less expensive brands may not be as accurately calibrated as they
should be, I'd recommend staying away from no-name and cheap-name units. Also, I personally prefer
to stay away from the beam-and-pointer types (like the Parks) because they are often difficult to
use accurately.

Quoted message said:

Are the 2 Park wrenches ok, or are there better ones available that are not too expensive
(<$100 per)?

Sears sells a pair that are about $70 each, both 3/8" drive, that have the ranges that are linely to
be useful.

Quoted message said:

Alternatively, are there any reasonably affordable wrenches that work well for the entire range of
torque settings needed for most road bikes?

If you can only afford one, I would tend to say that it's probably more important to get the 250
inch pound unit, and have higher-torque stuff tighted by the people at the lbs if guesstimation
is not satisfactory. Also, don't overlook the fact that lots of torque wrenches in the higher
ranges come up on sale at this time of year; they're a popular gift item for people in the
automotive trades.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

Quoted message said:

I got a 3/8" drive clicker-type from Sears and it has done everything I needed...especially
getting the correct torque on the bottom bracket and cranks.

frank, with respect, how do you know it's "correct"? just because it clicks at the number you set
doesn't mean it's correctly calibrated. i've seen "clicker" torque wrenches be 30+% off. that can
be critical.

regarding the o.p., my personal preference is the "bending beam" type wrench. cheap, reliable, no
calibration issues. sure, they look ugly, but who really cares? don't buy the park bending beams, go
sears. about half the price.

jb.

In article said:

Quoted message said:

I got a 3/8" drive clicker-type from Sears and it has done everything I needed...especially
getting the correct torque on the bottom bracket and cranks.

frank, with respect, how do you know it's "correct"? just because it clicks at the number you set
doesn't mean it's correctly calibrated. i've seen "clicker" torque wrenches be 30+% off. that can
be critical.

regarding the o.p., my personal preference is the "bending beam" type wrench. cheap, reliable, no
calibration issues. sure, they look ugly, but who really cares? don't buy the park bending beams,
go sears. about half the price.

jb.

Nawww!

The best torque wrencg is made by ShelBroCo. ( Sheldon Brown )

The universal torque wrench is a must have tool!

Calibrated from "loosey goosey" through "Stripped"... 🙂

HAND

--
"Freedom Is a Light for Which Many Have Died in Darkness"

- Tomb of the unknown - American Revolution

In article said:

Quoted message said:

I got a 3/8" drive clicker-type from Sears and it has done everything I needed...especially
getting the correct torque on the bottom bracket and cranks.

frank, with respect, how do you know it's "correct"? just because it clicks at the number you set
doesn't mean it's correctly calibrated. i've seen "clicker" torque wrenches be 30+% off. that can
be critical.

Unless you drop (read: damage) the clicker type torque wrenches, or use them at less than 20% of
their rated capacity (e.g. <20 ft-lbs for a 100 ft-lbs device), or left them for extended periods
set to a less-than-minimal torque, they are typically quite accurate. In fact, I think Sears and
other popular manufacturers rate their clickers at around +/-5% for torques of >20% of total range.
Torque specs typically have ranges anyway so it is not exactly vital to get the torque spot-on.

For the compulsive types, a set of clickers plus a set of range-matching beam type wrenches are just
the setup--the clickers for ease-of-use, and the beamies to check the clickers' calibration
occasionally. (e.g. clicker to 8mm hex to 8mm socket to beamie)

Cheers, Benz

Hi - complete novice with a question about how tight I should be fixing brake calipers to fork and frame. I would really appreciate input from those who are in the know and able to make me a bit less incompetent...(!)

I gather there's a wonderful invention called a torque wrench which can solve this problem, but in the absence of one, is there any basic rule-of-tightening-thumb I can follow, e.g number of allen key turns, etc?

Also;

(1) Should it be possible to move the brake caliper off-centre by force of hand alone? If I can, does this mean it's not attached to the frame tightly enough?

(2) Does it make any difference as to how tight the brake caliper can be attached if the fork is made of carbon?

(3) Will I be causing untold damage to either componentry or frame if bolts are under-tight?

Many thanks to any of you out there who can help and look forward to hearing from you.

G 😕