Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

What roadside repairs should any rider know?

Started by Ryan Cousineau · · Last activity · 93 posts · 1,968 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
6 November 2006
Last activity
25 November 2007
Original author
Ryan Cousineau
Posts
93
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,968
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 93
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. This is more than of academic, or even personal interest. I've been
    asked to do a workshop on this topic for my racing club.

    I can only assume I was singled out because I have the worst collection
    of bikes in the club, and so must spend the most time doing ghetto
    repairs.

    Note that for most of these riders, a typical "long" ride will be 2-6
    hours on urban, suburban, or rural (but not Montana-rural) roads. This
    is about surviving a training ride, not an unsupported tour.

    Here's my rough idea:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    Repairs you must know
    -flat change, with and without removing tube (I consider this so basic I
    don't expect to actually demonstrate it, except to describe a few
    obvious pitfalls I've found: tire patches barely work in wet conditions,
    portable tire levers flex out after a few uses, beware tight tires on
    tight rims).
    -spoke truing, mainly to work around a broken spoke, plus brake
    adjustment if things are really haywire (opening QRs, loosening and
    redoing brake cables)
    -how to smack a bent rim into shape
    -minor shifter trim adjustments
    -how to re-configure and re-route the chain into singlespeed mode to
    survive a broken derailer, shifter, or chain.
    -cable failures: consequences

    That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Anything I should add
    or subtract from these lists?

    Thanks,

    --
    Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/
    "I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
    to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos

  2. Ryan Cousineau said:

    Note that for most of these riders, a typical "long" ride will be 2-6
    hours on urban, suburban, or rural (but not Montana-rural) roads. This
    is about surviving a training ride, not an unsupported tour.


    [snip]

    Not a bad list - even for long unsupported tours. I'd add "change brake
    pads" for a tourist, and maybe "install a FibreFlex spoke." Oh, and
    "re-attach your racks."

    Mind if I take a copy of your list over to CrazyGuyOnABike.com for
    discussion?

  3. "Ryan Cousineau" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    This is more than of academic, or even personal interest. I've been
    asked to do a workshop on this topic for my racing club.

    Repairs you must know:

    How to repair a broken chain with a chain tool. Plus instructions on the
    use of the various types of quick-connect links.

    And emphasize the lesson I learned on the way home Friday PM: always carry a
    pump, tire irons and a spare tube. My rear tube failed along the seam
    producing a loud explosion and leaving a 6" gash in the tube. The tire was
    fine.

    I did not have a 7" patch. Nor did I have any of the above essentials; these
    I ordinarily carry. Compounding the problem was it was dark and raining and
    I had just been disabled as I was passing through the absolute worst section
    of town.

  4. On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 05:11:10 GMT, Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    This is more than of academic, or even personal interest. I've been
    asked to do a workshop on this topic for my racing club.

    I can only assume I was singled out because I have the worst collection
    of bikes in the club, and so must spend the most time doing ghetto
    repairs.

    Note that for most of these riders, a typical "long" ride will be 2-6
    hours on urban, suburban, or rural (but not Montana-rural) roads. This
    is about surviving a training ride, not an unsupported tour.

    Here's my rough idea:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    Repairs you must know
    -flat change, with and without removing tube (I consider this so basic I
    don't expect to actually demonstrate it, except to describe a few
    obvious pitfalls I've found: tire patches barely work in wet conditions,
    portable tire levers flex out after a few uses, beware tight tires on
    tight rims).
    -spoke truing, mainly to work around a broken spoke, plus brake
    adjustment if things are really haywire (opening QRs, loosening and
    redoing brake cables)
    -how to smack a bent rim into shape
    -minor shifter trim adjustments
    -how to re-configure and re-route the chain into singlespeed mode to
    survive a broken derailer, shifter, or chain.
    -cable failures: consequences

    That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Anything I should add
    or subtract from these lists?

    Thanks,

    Dear Ryan,

    A paperclip hanging from a bike-bag zipper can be useful to dig tiny,
    stubborn things like thorn tips out of tires.

    A rolled-up Kevlar-bead tire can turn a disaster that the tire boot
    can't handle into a routine flat.

    Half a dozen zip ties can be awfully handy.

    If the multi-tool doesn't include it, carry a small pair of needlenose
    pliers with wire cutters. A short piece of inner tube will cover the
    working end and keep the jaws closed. Useful for cutting, grabbing, or
    twisting broken (and unbroken) things that you didn't think you'd ever
    need to cut, grab, or twist.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  5. On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 05:11:10 GMT, Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    That premise is strange, at least for me.

    I want to ride back from every ride. Whether it's worth carrying all
    that stuff for incidents whose occurence is remote is another story.
    For me the answer is "no" to some of that stuff -- I can beg it off
    someone else, or buy it nearby on a ride, or give up on riding home.

    I may want to ride home, but taking a train or cab or calling a friend
    once every five years or so is tolerable.

    I live in a populous area.
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  6. A temporary fix for the blown apart tube as the last resort before
    packing the tire casing with roadside weeds.
    Tie a simple overhand knot in each end of the remaining open ends
    creating a sausage. Inflate part way and stuff back in the tire casing,
    put the tire back on the rim and reinflate. Be prepared for a lumpy
    ride and a slow leak.

    Broken shifter or cable, pick the gear you want, pull the remains of the
    cable and trap it under a water battle mount or similar so the derailer
    can't move back. This gives more range than the limit screw selection
    technique.

    Surgical tape from a first aid kit can make a dandy tire boot. You do
    have a first aid kit?

    Expanding spray foam, a plastic bag and a discarded plastic container
    can make a custom sized replacement helmet!!!

    Marcus

  7. Per Ryan Cousineau:

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    You probably shouldn't list this because it might undermine the credibility of
    the rest of the list... but I carry a pair of tweezers. Every so often I get a
    bunch of blackberry thorns or even a bit of steel-belted radial tire wire in the
    casing that I can't get a grip on with my fingers.

    Also, the chains I use have quick links. I carry a few old ones. They don't
    weigh much, and maybe they'll get me home if I break a chain (been there done
    that... twice... but without the links available).

    Under technique, you need to emphasize that some chains are not amenable to
    having links driven out and then being re-joined: they need a quick link. I
    think it's something about the way the links are formed. I wasn't a believer
    until learning the hard way under full power on a hill...
    --
    PeteCresswell

  8. Ryan Cousineau said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    Not a tool, but then, neither are tubes and patches: short length of
    chain and a couple of quick-change links. Sometimes just the link is all
    you need, but having a bit of chain allows you to replace a bent/broken
    section, and using the quick-connect links is more secure than trying to
    push in modern chain pins.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a
    _`\(,_ | conclusion. -- George Bernard Shaw
    (_)/ (_) |

  9. John Forrest Tomlinson said:

    On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 05:11:10 GMT, Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    That premise is strange, at least for me.

    I want to ride back from every ride. Whether it's worth carrying all
    that stuff for incidents whose occurence is remote is another story.
    For me the answer is "no" to some of that stuff -- I can beg it off
    someone else, or buy it nearby on a ride, or give up on riding home.

    I may want to ride home, but taking a train or cab or calling a friend
    once every five years or so is tolerable.

    I live in a populous area.

    Me too, I don't see the point in all the tools when riding within
    civilization.

    To answer the main question, what should be the basics that one can do,
    I'd say: fix a flat and tighten a bolt.That's it. Those are the two
    things that are common, you get a puncture, or something vibrates
    loose.

    Breaking chains, spokes, having to boot tires, these skills will be
    picked up at some point by most riders, but they're rare enough to just
    relax and enjoy the ride.

    For crying out loud, I broke my first spoke in over a decade this
    summer. I was five miles from home, but it was just a matter of
    loosening the q/r and riding home.

    Certainly if you're in a habit of riding unsupported in the country
    you'd want to carry a few more things, and brush up on field repair,
    but for anybody else: fix a flat, and tighten a bolt.

    I carry: mini-pump, patches (no spare tube), and a couple allen keys.

  10. (PeteCresswell) said:

    Per Ryan Cousineau:

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    You probably shouldn't list this because it might undermine the credibility of
    the rest of the list... but I carry a pair of tweezers. Every so often I get a
    bunch of blackberry thorns or even a bit of steel-belted radial tire wire in the
    casing that I can't get a grip on with my fingers.

    The smallest Swiss Army knife has a blade, screwdriver, file, scissors,
    tweezers and a toothpick. It's small enough to fit easily on a keychain
    in your pocket. It's a very handy multi-tool for anyone, including
    cyclists.

    Cam

  11. Dave Mayer said:

    And emphasize the lesson I learned on the way home Friday PM: always carry a
    pump, tire irons and a spare tube. My rear tube failed along the seam
    producing a loud explosion and leaving a 6" gash in the tube. The tire was
    fine.

    This is off-topic, but your problem wasn't a tube failure. It was a
    tire coming unseated from the rim.

    When a tire unseats from the rim, the tube blows a big bubble and
    bursts. And a tube can't produce a loud explosion without blowing that
    bubble. IOW, it can't happen if the tube is contained in the tire.

    - Frank Krygowski

  12. Ryan Cousineau said:

    This is more than of academic, or even personal interest. I've been
    asked to do a workshop on this topic for my racing club.

    I can only assume I was singled out because I have the worst collection
    of bikes in the club, and so must spend the most time doing ghetto
    repairs.

    Note that for most of these riders, a typical "long" ride will be 2-6
    hours on urban, suburban, or rural (but not Montana-rural) roads. This
    is about surviving a training ride, not an unsupported tour.

    Here's my rough idea:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    Repairs you must know
    -flat change, with and without removing tube (I consider this so basic I
    don't expect to actually demonstrate it, except to describe a few
    obvious pitfalls I've found: tire patches barely work in wet conditions,
    portable tire levers flex out after a few uses, beware tight tires on
    tight rims).
    -spoke truing, mainly to work around a broken spoke, plus brake
    adjustment if things are really haywire (opening QRs, loosening and
    redoing brake cables)
    -how to smack a bent rim into shape
    -minor shifter trim adjustments
    -how to re-configure and re-route the chain into singlespeed mode to
    survive a broken derailer, shifter, or chain.
    -cable failures: consequences

    That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Anything I should add
    or subtract from these lists?

    Thanks,

    Your list looks about perfect to me, based on not only my own rides,
    but hundreds of club rides, and dozens of times sagging century rides.

    My only additions are these:

    Fixing loose bits on the bike, like fenders, racks, lights, etc.
    (You've covered it by implication with your "every bolt on your bike"
    point, but you might add the operation to your "repairs you must know"
    list, just for emphasis.)

    Along with your tools, throw in a bit of baling wire, a little duct
    tape (mine's either wrapped around a pencil, or stuck onto my patch kit
    box), a couple zip ties, and maybe a 5mmx0.8 machine screw or two.

    Oh, and: Maintain your bike at home. If it's in proper shape, you're
    less likely to need to repair it in the dark and rain 30 miles from
    home.

    - Frank Krygowski

  13. landotter said:
    John Forrest Tomlinson said:

    On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 05:11:10 GMT, Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:


    That premise is strange, at least for me.

    I want to ride back from every ride. Whether it's worth carrying all
    that stuff for incidents whose occurence is remote is another story.
    For me the answer is "no" to some of that stuff -- I can beg it off
    someone else, or buy it nearby on a ride, or give up on riding home.

    I may want to ride home, but taking a train or cab or calling a friend
    once every five years or so is tolerable.

    I live in a populous area.

    Me too, I don't see the point in all the tools when riding within
    civilization.

    To answer the main question, what should be the basics that one can do,
    I'd say: fix a flat and tighten a bolt.That's it. Those are the two
    things that are common, you get a puncture, or something vibrates
    loose.

    Breaking chains, spokes, having to boot tires, these skills will be
    picked up at some point by most riders, but they're rare enough to just
    relax and enjoy the ride.

    I'd say that breaking chains happens often enough (twice in 10 years for
    me), and the equipment needed to fix it is so trivial - a chaintool -
    that I'm willing to fix this one on the road.

    Pete

  14. John Forrest Tomlinson said:

    On Mon, 06 Nov 2006 05:11:10 GMT, Ryan Cousineau <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    That premise is strange, at least for me.

    I want to ride back from every ride. Whether it's worth carrying all
    that stuff for incidents whose occurence is remote is another story.
    For me the answer is "no" to some of that stuff -- I can beg it off
    someone else, or buy it nearby on a ride, or give up on riding home.

    I may want to ride home, but taking a train or cab or calling a friend
    once every five years or so is tolerable.

    I live in a populous area.

    Dear John,

    Ah, regional variation!

    I live in a populous area, too, at least as far as folks around define
    populous. Here's a view of the crowded conditions on my daily ride:

    http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=336a_yellow_leaves.jpg
    or http://tinyurl.com/yndrc4

    A train? I suppose you mean those things that carry coal. They stop
    about twenty miles away at the Comanche power station. The tracks are
    about a mile north, over two no-trespassing signs on barb-wire fences.

    A cab? That would be one of those yellow things with four wheels. They
    can't get past the padlocked gate about a mile back, and probably
    couldn't find it in the first place. Only maintenance workers are
    allowed to drive out here. (There really is a dirt road over to the
    right. You can't get to the area on the right--that's a gravel pit
    that closed a while back.)

    Calling a friend? If I carried a cell phone on my daily ride so
    clients could pester me, that might work. Probaby not--poor reception
    out there. Otherwise, the nearest land-line phone is--

    Hmmm . . . about two miles back is the Nature Center, but it's mostly
    closed. Might be someone there in the summer with a cell phone to
    borrow. Climb up on the bluffs and it might work.

    About two and a half miles ahead is the ticket hut at the dam, but
    they don't have a phone at the hut, just a radio that they often say
    can't be used because the rangers are responding to emergencies.
    Besides, it's only open from 9 to 5 in the summer. The rest of the
    time, you're supposed to use a self-serve machine to buy a state park
    pass.

    Of course, I could ford the Arkansas River and climb a few fences and
    walk up the highway and see if my retired dentist is home, about half
    a mile away. He built a house out at the bottom of the steepest part
    of my daily ride, where I come back into town on the highway.

    Beg whatever I need off someone else? Most of the people I see are out
    for long walks and carry no bicycle parts or tools. Neither do most of
    the people I see on bicycles--you can tell by the lack of any bike bag
    and the fact that they're pushing their bikes back to town. Besides,
    most of them are Schrader-valve mountain bikes.

    Of course, I don't go out in desolate places. Here's the Empty
    Quarter, northeast of Pueblo:

    http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=16&Z=13&X=44&Y=332&W=3&qs=%7cpueblo%7cco%7c

    The lines look pretty, but they're just dirt roads. Ain't nothing out
    there. You'd probably have to go quite a ways out into the Atlantic to
    find that kind of peace and quiet and elbow-room around New York.
    (Switch to the aerial view, and you'll see some rectangular and
    circular crop fields, but most are abandoned and the rest grow by
    themselves in summer.)

    That's out on the prairie and infinitely dull.

    The other way, southwest, is the Wet Mountain range. I go out there,
    but I go with a friend, tools, and spare parts:

    http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=15&Z=13&X=77&Y=656&W=3

    From Beulah at the top, you can drive south and west over to the
    Greenhill Divide on a dirt mountain road called Twelve-Mile-Cutoff to
    Highway 165.

    Ain't nothing west of 165 but trails for hikers, horses, motorcycles,
    and bicycles.

    Ditto for east of 165.

    No phones, no homes, no cell-phone reception. No cabs, no bus, not too
    much traffic on the highway.

    Beulah is about 400 people and a convenience store in a mountain
    valley. Fairview to the north is a ranch at the foot of the Greenhorn
    road, which winds south down the far side of the mountains to the
    Greehorn peak. (We tend to name road intersections after ranches as if
    they're inhabited--"Fairview" sounds grander than that ranch with all
    the buildings falling down at the foot of the Greenhorn road.)

    San Isabel to the south is just a log-cabin fish-bait shop at the dam
    that creates a silly little mountain lake. If you want help, you'll
    have to climb up out of that steep mountain watershed and then walk
    down to Rye, about 15 miles. There are homes, but most of them are
    summer vacation homes and usually empty even in summer.

    I think I'll carry some tools, tubes, and a spare folding tire.

    But it's always interesting to hear how other people live. Trains that
    you can ride home in! Bike rides where you can call cabs! Flush
    toilets and tall buildings!

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  15. "landotter" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:1162827715.322991.69740
    @i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

    Quoted message said:

    Certainly if you're in a habit of riding unsupported in the country
    you'd want to carry a few more things, and brush up on field repair,
    but for anybody else: fix a flat, and tighten a bolt.

    I agree. I carry a couple of spare tubes, a pump, a small patch kit (mostly
    to help others), a multi-tool and some wet wipes. Although, I would add to
    that list something that wasn't practical when I first started riding: A
    cell phone. <grin>

    One other thing from this discussion that's going into the seat bag now: a
    small first aid kit. (Good idea that I didn't think about.)

    Cheers,
    David

  16. Ningi <[email hidden]> wrote in news:okK3h.47982
    [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    I'd say that breaking chains happens often enough (twice in 10 years for
    me), and the equipment needed to fix it is so trivial - a chaintool -
    that I'm willing to fix this one on the road.

    Perhaps because I'm only about 160lbs (or perhaps because I'm weak), I've
    never had a chain break in about 30 years of riding.

    I also clean and lube my chain at least once every 1000 miles or so. That
    gives me a chance to inspect it as well.

    Cheers,
    David

  17. Per Solvang Cyclist:

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps because I'm only about 160lbs (or perhaps because I'm weak), I've
    never had a chain break in about 30 years of riding.

    I also clean and lube my chain at least once every 1000 miles or so. That
    gives me a chance to inspect it as well.

    I postulate two causes for the chain breaks I've had:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------
    1) Der crashes - where the chain hops off the biggest cog and gets
    jammed between cog and spokes - or the other side where it
    gets jammed between smallest cog and dropout.

    2) Breaking a bushingless chain and then re-joining it by driving
    the pin back in instead of using a quick-link.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------

    Weight may have something to do with it because all of my chain failures
    have happened as I was lunging my 220# up a hill out of the saddle.
    --
    PeteCresswell

  18. Per Ryan Cousineau:

    Quoted message said:

    Tools you should carry on any ride you want to ride back from:

    -multi-tool w/several hex keys (every bolt on your bike, pretty much),
    spoke wrench, chain tool (Crank Bros Multi-17 as archetypal one?)
    -tube, patches, pump, levers, something to use as a tire boot (paper
    money, energy bar wrapper?)
    -anything else?

    - Shraeder-to-Presta adaptor. (For the guy we come on that has a flat
    but no pump

    - Presta-to-Shraeder. (For me if/when I get a flat and that
    el-cheapo pump I carry finally coughs up it's guts and dies)
    --
    PeteCresswell

  19. John Forrest Tomlinson said:

    I may want to ride home, but taking a train or cab or calling a friend
    once every five years or so is tolerable.

    My limit is pretty much a tube, patch kit, tire levers, $20, some
    change, a couple allen wrenches, and a spoke wrench. The spoke wrench
    is light, and my tire clearance is tight enough that a broken spoke
    could be a problem. You can boot a tire with almost anything, including
    a dollar bill, wax big gulp cup from the side of the road, powerbar
    wrapper, etc. I've never broken a chain on the road. I've had to hitch
    a couple times, but that's it.

    Money is under-rated as a tool; it's very helpful to be able to buy
    your way out of a situation. A credit card might not be all that bad of
    an idea. Quarters are descreasing in utility with the passing of pay
    phones, but there are still vending machines that take only quarters
    when you need an emergency food infusion.

  20. (PeteCresswell) said:

    Per Solvang Cyclist:

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps because I'm only about 160lbs (or perhaps because I'm weak), I've
    never had a chain break in about 30 years of riding.

    I also clean and lube my chain at least once every 1000 miles or so. That
    gives me a chance to inspect it as well.

    I postulate two causes for the chain breaks I've had:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------
    1) Der crashes - where the chain hops off the biggest cog and gets
    jammed between cog and spokes - or the other side where it
    gets jammed between smallest cog and dropout.

    2) Breaking a bushingless chain and then re-joining it by driving
    the pin back in instead of using a quick-link.

    Bushingless chains go back a long way (Sedisport, late '70s) and were
    broken and reconnected by pushing the same pins in and out for years
    without incident. It was the advent of ramped cogs (Hyperglide,
    Exa-Drive, Power-flo, etc) that changed things. These cogs, along with
    the expectation of shifting under full power, put serious side loads on
    chains. IMO, a quick link is the only way to safly join a chain in
    today's conditions.

    Quoted message said:

    -----------------------------------------------------------------

    Weight may have something to do with it because all of my chain failures
    have happened as I was lunging my 220# up a hill out of the saddle.
    --
    PeteCresswell

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.