bleeding maguras?

Spencer Hochberg said:

Get one of 'these' (http://tinyurl.com/y7h9l9).

That comes with some magura fluid, a lot of trials bikers use water in
their lines and really like it. They say it gives it a more snappy feel
but it wears the seals down faster.

Thanks that looks good, but I have NO idea of how to do that, although I
assume there's instructions, I'd rather let a tech at the LBS do it. Do
you think the average LBS knows how to bleed and add fluid? Maybe an
LBS that specializes in mountain bikes?

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It depends on the bike shop. A lot of bike shops I would not let near my
hydrolic brakes.

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Spencer Hochberg said:

It depends on the bike shop. A lot of bike shops I would not let near my
hydrolic brakes.

I heard that the standard magura "fluid" is regular old Mineral oil...is
that true? Because maybe I should just drain the lines and refill it
with new fresh mineral oil.

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This site seems to be the best source of magura information:
http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/
and here is how to bleed magura rim brakes:
http://tinyurl.com/yjeytw

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MuniAddict said:

I heard that the standard magura "fluid" is regular old Mineral oil...is
that true? Because maybe I should just drain the lines and refill it
with new fresh mineral oil.

I'd say that your mostly correct, at least i have heard the same
information. perhaps the maguraq site i just posted migh shed some more
light, im not too sure.

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"Hydraulic oil
Magura Oil, which is filled into the brakes in Germany is greenish -
Shell Naturelle. Unfortunately Shell USA doesn't sell (import) that
same stuff. Shell USA says that this (environmental friendly) oil is
too expensive for the American market. Magura USA could get it in a
special load (a boat load?) but it probably would last to the year
3000.

Magura USA searched high and low and ended up with Finish Line Shock
Oil No 5, which is actually a mineral based synthetic oil and is of a
reddish colour. Finish line shock oil is also environmental friendly
and if you can trust the folks at Shell, it will mix with the original
Shell stuff. It also has a better lubrication value than even the
original German Shell.

So....all brakes are filled in Germany with Shell Naturelle. All Oil in
the bleedkits and separate oil bottles available from Magura USA is
Finish Line No. 5 Shock Oil.

The viscosity or weight is measured in different ways in Europe and in
the USA (figures!) but the original Shell Stuff is about 8 weight. The
Finish Line again is 5. ( The smaller the number the thinner it is)

In case of extreme low temps, Finish Line No 2.5 weight is a
temporarily accepted fix. It will make the brake levers return
faster. Also 2.5 weight is Thorsten's personal choice for the rear
Louise Disc brake."

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Quoted message said:

Mineral Oil from the Supermarket is also not a good substitute. You
never know what viscosity that stuff has. Mostly a weight of 30 is sold
but again, nobody knows for sure, because of the different measurements
in viscosity. For emergency work in the middle of nowhere cooking oil,
or mineral oil will work....so does water but it all really needs to be
flushed later.

umm do you work for magora??? don’t be a sissy use mineral oil
its cheaper and was easer to get.

Quoted message said:

Maybe an LBS that specializes in mountain bikes?

magora hs style breaks are actually fairly rare on mountain bikes and
they are deferent to bleed than normal hydraulic disk breaks. try to
find a shop that deals with trials bikes if you can

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unicyclepa said:

umm do you work for magora??? don’t be a sissy use mineral oil its
cheaper and was easer to get.

magora hs style breaks are actually fairly rare on mountain bikes and
they are deferent to bleed than normal hydraulic disk breaks. try to
find a shop that deals with trials bikes if you can

Ok thanks!

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unicyclepa said:

umm do you work for magora??? don’t be a sissy use mineral oil its
cheaper and was easer to get...

Umm, no I dont work for magora. Nor do I work for Magura. That
information came straight from a magura enthusiast site as far as I
know.

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yeah i know i rember reeding it and its bs minreal oil is fine.i run it
in 2 of my unicycle breaks and the maguras on my trials bike

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unicyclepa said:

yeah i know i rember reeding it and its bs minreal oil is fine.i run it
in 2 of my unicycle breaks and the maguras on my trials bike

Yeah, Im sure somebody told me that you could do that before, but im
not sure who it was and how reliable they are as a source.
Im still looking to buy maguras for my coker and my muni at this stage
so have no experience using any.

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unicyclepa said:

yeah i know i rember reeding it and its bs minreal oil is fine.i run it
in 2 of my unicycle breaks and the maguras on my trials bike

Magura rim brakes are fussy enough as it is. Using some random mineral
oil from the drug store would be an exercise in trial and error. If
the mineral oil is too viscous the brake pads will retract more slowly
and not in sync. When you squeeze the lever one brake pad will move in
well before the other one. The brake cylinders are in series, not
parallel, so one ends up reacting first before the other. With thicker
(more viscous) fluid the out of sync behavior is more pronounced.

It is easy and cheap enough to get the Finish Line Shock Oil. It's a
known fluid. There is no need to MacGyver it with some random mineral
oil.

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Terry,

Here is a link that I found very helpful. John childs goes into more
details on Magura stuff. Read the entire thread.
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52628

Cheers.

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most bike shops should have at least one mechanic who can work on your
brakes. the best way to find out is to call a few and ask. also ask for
a rough estimate. problem solved. at least if you don't want to do it
yourself.

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please let your shop do the first time. have them walk you through it,
its worth the 20-40$. i have seen so many joe blow home mechanics mess
up their brakes its not worth it.

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teachndad said:

John Childs goes into more details on Magura stuff. Read the entire
thread.

Yes, JC is The Man on Magura bleeding and functionality. And let's not
forget that he makes 'house calls' (http://tinyurl.com/vbqfd) if the
price is right and your house is in the right place. After a JC lesson
last year, I finally had my first "solo attempt" at bleeding my Magura
last month. As I went through the process, I found myself talking to
myself in JC's specific, instructive voice. I resisted the temptation
to call myself an idiot. The procedure went just fine.

Thanks JC!

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Hey Terry,

don't be afraid of bleeding a Magura HS33. It's not really difficult if
you got the bleeding kit. I've done it a couple of times just following
the instructions of the manual.

The only advice I can give you is to get a mate for a second pair of
hands. It's pretty difficult to catch all the oil at the brake lever
and pushing the syringe at the brake itself at the same time.

I suppose everyone could do it, it is nothing compared to bleed a disc
brake and that is doable as well with a little effort.

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Terry,
It may be possable that your tps is dialed out a little more now that
you have messed with it. Maybe you just need to dial it back in?

How to tell that you have air in the lines; squeeze the lever, pads
should move at exact time the lever moves, and the pads should retract
just as quickly as the lever. The lever will feel a little more squishy
after the brakes have fully contacted the rim, and you will have less
power.

water ftw! My friend has run water in the hs33 on his trials bike for
years, no blown seals yet. On the other hand, the hs33 on the front of
my bike has only ever had a factory bleed, and has developed a small
leak at the slaves.
The boiling point is moot, you're not going to boil the fluid in your
brakes. Water does give a quicker action at the lever, I'm not sure
that would make much difference on a muni since you're just using the
brake to drag on the rim vs. the quick lock/unlock that is used in bike
trials.

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Quoted message said:

water ftw![/QUOTwater is good aslong and it dosint get below 32 degrees
where you live. and sorey jc im still going to have to desagree with
you on the mineral oil thing

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