How do you make a fixie?

Hello,

Track bikes have a different geometry, designed so that your pedals doesn't hit on the stilt (height) track turns. A track bike has different dropouts, a narrower back hub (120 mm) and a slightly straighter fork. As you know the biggest difference is the actual fixed gear, which turns into a real thrill once you get used to its complete-turn of the pedals motion ! However i remember once i turned a road bike into a fixed gear bike that i could use in the street and it work out well, the guys in the bike shop adapted it for me.

Here's one useful link spicercycles.comspicercycles.comOpen ↗

Regards
Rodrigo

JTE83 said:

How do you convert a bike to a fixie? Recently my Raleigh Prestige broke off it's front derailleur, so I got a replacement frame for $770. Well, now I have an extra frame that I can put some extra parts on it and make a fixed wheel bike. The problem is, I don't know what cranks and wheelsets can be used or what's the best on the market right now. Can anyone help suggest parts?

Any type of cranks, but track cranks are popular.

I would suggest investigating the golden ratio or a half link as with vertical dropouts it will be difficult getting chain tension.

You will need a new hub. Surly makes a good one, or you could make your life a whole lot easier and get an eccentric hub.

You then need track cog and lockring (or a freewheel, or both, as alot of hubs are flip-flop)

Good luck and they are great fun and a callenge to ride 😉

JTE83 said:

How do you convert a bike to a fixie? Recently my Raleigh Prestige broke off it's front derailleur, so I got a replacement frame for $770. Well, now I have an extra frame that I can put some extra parts on it and make a fixed wheel bike. The problem is, I don't know what cranks and wheelsets can be used or what's the best on the market right now. Can anyone help suggest parts?

Take a look at Sheldon Brown's site. He has a special section dedicated to fixed gear riding.

Depending on how old your Raleigh is you probably don't have long enough drop outs to move the wheel back and forth to tension the chain (there's obviously no der. there to do it for you).

If, on the off chance you do, then run w/e cranks, bars, stems, etc that your comforatable on already and you'll be fine. Surly (www.surlybikes.com) makes some mighty fine cogs, chainings, and fixi frames.

Justin

You can try all4cycling.comindex.phpOpen ↗

bobbyOCR said:

You will need a new hub.

Specifically, you will want a hub which has a solid axle ... you can retrofit a solid axle on most hubs.

The chainline is important ... some say critical. Consequently, you may need a new BB with a shorter spindle to get the chainline as close to parallel to the centerline of the bike as possible.

Keep the front brake ... the rear brake is optional; but, the lever for the rear brake gives you the option of another hand position on the bars (presuming you use traditional ROAD bars, that is).

alfeng said:

Specifically, you will want a hub which has a solid axle ... you can retrofit a solid axle on most hubs.

The chainline is important ... some say critical. Consequently, you may need a new BB with a shorter spindle to get the chainline as close to parallel to the centerline of the bike as possible.

Keep the front brake ... the rear brake is optional; but, the lever for the rear brake gives you the option of another hand position on the bars (presuming you use traditional ROAD bars, that is).

I have had enourmous success making my mtb into a fixie/singlespeed freewheel. It used a regular rear wheel, and a fornt disc wheel. I filed the dropouts back about 2mm to get some adjustment. I also did the same with the axles. now I have 2 ratios to work with.

I made the front disc hub into a rear by taking a shimano LX 6-bolt hub, drilling a 17t cog by centering it using the disc for a guide, then I boled it on with the disc rotor bolts. I removed the axle, then I took a rear axle and its cones, machined some spacers on a lathe, greased it and adjusted the cones and it made the perfect fixie. (I don't use disc brakes anymore).

I also had enourmous success altering chainline by using a set of spacers and the long bolts for the chainrings. This gave me about 15mm of chainline adjustment, in about 5 positions.

The bolts are technically more stable than a threaded hub, and it is easy to remove compared to a tightened track cog.