rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Coker Frame Demensions?

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
29 September 2006
Last activity
5 October 2006
Original author
Ducttape
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  1. This is a request to you Coker owners:

    I want to build a titanium Coker frame, but I don't want to buy a
    standard Coker frame first, so...

    Could you please let me know the current critical dimensions of the
    standard Coker frame?

    * inside distance between forks, both at the crown and at the bearing
    holders... if it's different
    * space between inside bottom of crown and top of tyre/tire
    * length of seatpost tube
    *how long the total amount of tubung is so I can buy a long enough
    amount

    Oh, yeah... what's the inside diameter of a standard Coker's seatpost
    tube...

    Also, if you have any pet peeves about features of the Coker frame that
    should be improved/changed/fixed... I'd like to hear that. too!

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


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  2. I have built a custom coker frame and several muni and trials frames and
    it really helps to have a wheel first to build a frame to. To get it
    straight and centered and to get the brake mounts if any in the right
    place build your wheel first. you can get close enough for ordering
    materials by knowing the size of wheel half of 36" is 18" then give
    yourself some extra for the crown. If you are building a custom frame I
    wouldn't use the stock seatpost size which is 22.2mm or 7/8" I would use
    25.4 or 1" or 27.2mm. If you havent built a frame before I would
    recomend useing cromoly steel which is much easier to work with and is
    plenty strong. If you already have someone who fabricates with Ti like
    a relative or good friend great but otherwise it's going to be a very
    expensive frame.

    --
    Tellurider
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  3. Tellurider said:

    I have built a custom coker frame and several muni and trials frames and
    it really helps to have a wheel first to build a frame to. To get it
    straight and centered and to get the brake mounts if any in the right
    place build your wheel first. you can get close enough for ordering
    materials by knowing the size of wheel half of 36" is 18" then give
    yourself some extra for the crown. If you are building a custom frame I
    wouldn't use the stock seatpost size which is 22.2mm or 7/8" I would use
    25.4 or 1" or 27.2mm. If you havent built a frame before I would
    recomend useing cromoly steel which is much easier to work with and is
    plenty strong. If you already have someone who fabricates with Ti like
    a relative or good friend great but otherwise it's going to be a very
    expensive frame.

    I figured it would cost about 120 dollars for 5 feet of Ti tubing and
    thank you for the tips.... I haven't built a frame yet or puchased a
    wheel set yet...

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


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  4. Ducttape said:


    Also, if you have any pet peeves about features of the Coker frame that
    should be improved/changed/fixed... I'd like to hear that. too!

    A frame with a rounded crown is best for a Coker. You don't need a
    flat crown. A rounded crown is narrower. Flat crowns tend to be wider
    and can end up rubbing your upper thigh as you ride. It's a factor for
    some people, particularly those with shorter or fatter legs.

    The Hunter 36" frame is a nice design for a Coker frame. Rounded crown
    and the frame is stiff. I wonder how well that frame design would work
    in titanium?

    Pay particular attention to the bearing holders on the frame. You want
    quality bearing holders that hold the bearing securely. The cheap
    stamped metal bearing holders, like on the stock Coker frame, can (and
    will) wiggle on the bearings which translates into noticeable frame
    flex and wiggliness. You want machined bearing holders similar in
    style to the bearing holders on the KH unicycles or the Hunter
    unicycles.

    And make it to fit the extra wide Unicycle.com hub rather than the
    standard width unicycle hubs. The wider hub makes for a stronger and
    stiffer wheel.

    The stock Coker frame uses a 22.2 mm seatpost. I would suggest using
    something with a larger diameter. 25.4mm or 27.2mm are good sizes and
    there are regular unicycle seatposts available in those sizes. Larger
    diameter seatposts clamp more securely (less likely to twist or slip).
    Make sure the neck of the frame fits the seatpost without any slop. It
    may be difficult to find tubing with the right ID for the seatpost.

    --
    john_childs

    john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
    Team Dirty Muni
    Gallery: http://gallery.unicyclist.com/john_childs
    'Unicycling Bookmark List' (http://backcountry.unicyclist.com/) ::
    'World Clock' (http://tinyurl.com/a99y3)
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  5. john_childs said:

    A frame with a rounded crown is best for a Coker. You don't need a flat
    crown. A rounded crown is narrower. Flat crowns tend to be wider and
    can end up rubbing your upper thigh as you ride. It's a factor for
    some people, particularly those with shorter or fatter legs.

    The Hunter 36" frame is a nice design for a Coker frame. Rounded crown
    and the frame is stiff. I wonder how well that frame design would work
    in titanium?

    Pay particular attention to the bearing holders on the frame. You want
    quality bearing holders that hold the bearing securely. The cheap
    stamped metal bearing holders, like on the stock Coker frame, can (and
    will) wiggle on the bearings which translates into noticeable frame
    flex and wiggliness. You want machined bearing holders similar in
    style to the bearing holders on the KH unicycles or the Hunter
    unicycles.

    And make it to fit the extra wide Unicycle.com hub rather than the
    standard width unicycle hubs. The wider hub makes for a stronger and
    stiffer wheel.

    The stock Coker frame uses a 22.2 mm seatpost. I would suggest using
    something with a larger diameter. 25.4mm or 27.2mm are good sizes and
    there are regular unicycle seatposts available in those sizes. Larger
    diameter seatposts clamp more securely (less likely to twist or slip).
    Make sure the neck of the frame fits the seatpost without any slop. It
    may be difficult to find tubing with the right ID for the seatpost.

    I need to get the money first but I'll keep that in mind

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


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  6. Think about whether you want to accommodate a extra wide hub (which lots
    of people prefer) or not. The stock coker does not have this, which
    supposedly results in more wheel flex (but, for some, the ability to
    ride faster).

    --
    mark williamson

    Dave: Just a question. What use is a unicyle with no seat? And no
    pedals!
    Mark: To answer a question with a question: What use is a skateboard?
    Dave: Skateboards have wheels.
    Mark: My wheel has a wheel!
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  7. All this advice is great and I'll have to keep it in mind when I get the
    money.....

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


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  8. Just be carefull with those demented fram demensions. I would suggest
    using regular DIMENSION :P :P

    Ducttape said:

    This is a request to you Coker owners:

    I want to build a titanium Coker frame, but I don't want to buy a
    standard Coker frame first, so...

    Could you please let me know the current critical dimensions of the
    standard Coker frame?

    * inside distance between forks, both at the crown and at the bearing
    holders... if it's different
    * space between inside bottom of crown and top of tyre/tire
    * length of seatpost tube
    *how long the total amount of tubung is so I can buy a long enough
    amount

    Oh, yeah... what's the inside diameter of a standard Coker's seatpost
    tube...

    Also, if you have any pet peeves about features of the Coker frame that
    should be improved/changed/fixed... I'd like to hear that. too!

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  9. Ducttape said:

    I figured it would cost about 120 dollars for 5 feet of Ti tubing and
    thank you for the tips.... I haven't built a frame yet or puchased a
    wheel set yet...

    It's not so much the material cost it's the dificulty working with
    titanium it's not something you can usualy do yourself unless you have
    access to a shop that works with Titanium. There have been other
    threads about titanium unicycles where you could get more specific
    details but it requires an oxegen free environment to weld it and it is
    very dificult to cut, bend, drill, or work in any other way. That's why
    things made from it are so expensive.

    --
    Tellurider
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  10. I found a guy who will give me a quote on a custom Titanium Unicycle
    fame, but I need to get his a drawing and measurements.... would
    someone be able to come up with a CAD drawing of a Unicycle frame
    similar to a hunter cycle frame.... with the measurements..... thank
    you....

    --
    Ducttape

    Uniman is in Issue #'8' (http://tinyurl.com/oq8yk)
    mycellnumberareacode>(503) 989 5360, turned off

    sparrowhawk said:

    ive been dreaming for years of the prediction made by the gods written
    on the scrolls of Korteweg that i will be in a signature on a odd
    invention made by man himself.....oh you can dream....you can
    dream🙄


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  11. i can give you what you need if you give me what you want

    --
    unicyclepa

    www.unicyclepa.com
    we suck
    but its all good
    team YAMS member in your sig or title and say
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