Power meters · Public discussion

PowerTap installation

Started by russelldb · · Last activity · 15 posts · 1,414 views

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Power meters
Published
25 September 2006
Last activity
1 October 2006
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russelldb
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  1. Hi All,
    (first post) I have just bought a second hand power tap pro and am about to embark on a power training journey (I hope). Step one:- install.

    I have the hub in a wheel and the wheel in the frame. I have the receiver zi tied to the seat stay in a good position. Now, how does everyone else route their cable? Do you wrap it around the seat stay then what? Top tube? In the brake cable guide then wrapped around the break cable outer?

    Any standard, tidiest, best practice?

    Cheers in advance

    Russelll

  2. russelldb said:

    Hi All,
    (first post) I have just bought a second hand power tap pro and am about to embark on a power training journey (I hope). Step one:- install.

    I have the hub in a wheel and the wheel in the frame. I have the receiver zi tied to the seat stay in a good position. Now, how does everyone else route their cable? Do you wrap it around the seat stay then what? Top tube? In the brake cable guide then wrapped around the break cable outer?

    Any standard, tidiest, best practice?

    Cheers in advance

    Russelll


    Welcome to the power club! there was a post some time back on this forum on installation tips, etc. Might try the search function to find it. I think someone even drew some diagrams to show it.

    Well, not sure if this is best practice, but I think most people nowdays (well at least me) hang the receiver on the left chainstay rather than seat stay and use the zip ties to secure it. I route the cable along the chain stay, under the bottom bracket and then along the down tube. I hold all the cabling in place using electrical tape - not the zip ties. Once at the top of the down tube (where the derailleur cable holds are) I wrap the cable around the insulated derailleur cable until it's up to handle bar and then mount the cradle on the stem.

    I route the cadence cables exactly the same way.

    Try to use electrical tape that is the same colour as your frame (if possible), that way it's less visible.

    Hope this helps

    Cheers

  3. I have mine on the seat stay, but still route the cable down and along the bottom of the chainstay, drop off the cadence receiver en route, and then up the bottom of the downtube as one wire to the brake cables. Excess wire wraps many times around the brake cables.

  4. Thanks both for your responses. I'm going to install the unit tonight and I will try running the cable up the downtube (sounds a lot tidier than the top tube option).

    Cheers

    Russell

  5. Dini77 said:

    hang the receiver on the left chainstay rather than seat stay and use the zip ties to secure it.

    If you have the old style receiver (sort of boxy, not like a shark's tooth), this is the only thing that matters. Everything else is cosmetic. Below is a pic of my installation.

    BTW, while you can't see it, there is a clear plastic wedge-shaped tab on the wheel side of the chain stay, to prevent the receiver from swinging in toward the wheel. This is just one of those little clear vinyl 1/2" bumpers from Home Depot (like you would use on a kitchen cabinet to buffer the cabinet door from the cabinet frame). It has an adhesive on one side. I cut it in half because it was a little large. Then I just stuck it on the chain stay in between the two zip ties. Works fine.

  6. RapDaddyo said:

    If you have the old style receiver (sort of boxy, not like a shark's tooth), this is the only thing that matters. Everything else is cosmetic. Below is a pic of my installation.

    BTW, while you can't see it, there is a clear plastic wedge-shaped tab on the wheel side of the chain stay, to prevent the receiver from swinging in toward the wheel. This is just one of those little clear vinyl 1/2" bumpers from Home Depot (like you would use on a kitchen cabinet to buffer the cabinet door from the cabinet frame). It has an adhesive on one side. I cut it in half because it was a little large. Then I just stuck it on the chain stay in between the two zip ties. Works fine.


    aha - that's where i saw it.

  7. Dini77 said:

    aha - that's where i saw it.

    Nice pic, isn't it?😎

  8. RapDaddyo said:

    Nice pic, isn't it?😎


    Awww.... only the SL users need to do the hangy trick. 😉

  9. frenchyge said:

    Awww.... only the SL users need to do the hangy trick. 😉

    I won't have to worry about it much longer, as I won't have any wires at all and I'll have data to die for!😄

  10. Thanks for the extra detail. So that is the best way to install the sensor even if I have a PowerTap Pro? Despite what the manual says?

    Thanks in advance
    Russell

  11. Hey Russell - believe you me, I'm reading this carefully. Given that I'll probably have similar questions!

    Powertap pro on a new wheel will be on its way late next week.

    Good luck with your install.

  12. russelldb said:

    Thanks for the extra detail. So that is the best way to install the sensor even if I have a PowerTap Pro? Despite what the manual says?

    Thanks in advance
    Russell

    The PT Pro may not be as prone to losing the link with the hub due to vibration. Basically, this installation trick solves data drops due to vibration. I once thought this problem was limited to Ti frames, but I have since learned that it has shown up even on CF frames.

  13. russelldb said:

    So that is the best way to install the sensor even if I have a PowerTap Pro? Despite what the manual says?


    The PT Pro is unlikely to have any problems with either install method. Choose whichever best suits your taste.

  14. I have a SL w/the sharkfin sensor and install per Saris' instructions.
    No data drops.
    Just don't over-tighten any zipties you use, so you can rotate the sensor in close enough to detect a magnet if using a different rear wheel. And if you use electrical tape make sure the ends are well-sealed - I have a little clearcoat problem where water (probably w/soap) got trapped under the tape.

  15. RapDaddyo said:

    The PT Pro may not be as prone to losing the link with the hub due to vibration. Basically, this installation trick solves data drops due to vibration. I once thought this problem was limited to Ti frames, but I have since learned that it has shown up even on CF frames.


    I installed as per the manual and a few times during it's inaugural ride over some poor road surface the spped and watts readouts just displyed lines rather than data. I am going to try installing as per the picture above to see if it is any better.

    In general it was all pretty good though. Looking forward to testing myself in the following weeks to get ftp and a power profile. I think I will be a frequent visiter.

    cheers all again

    Russell

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