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Durable Rims for Road Wheels - Recommendations?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 August 2006
Last activity
29 August 2006
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Steve Sr.
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  1. I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve

  2. Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve


    Velocity Aerohead with Aerohead OC in rear makes a good combination for someone your weight.
    I suggest Sapim Laser 14/17 DB spokes front and left rear + Sapim Race 14/15 DB spokes right rear.
    I just built another pair that way and they work very well.

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    Actually newer clincher rims that manufacturers present as
    their best rims are heavier than the best rims available
    20-25 years ago. Those older clincher rims were light,
    fully socketed, box section, un-anodized, not welded, not
    `machined', and inexpensive. Clincher rims are one bicycle
    part that are in every regard worse than they used to be.

    As for a recommendation, see if you can find some Torelli
    Master rims.

    --
    Michael Press

  4. Michael Press said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    Actually newer clincher rims that manufacturers present as
    their best rims are heavier than the best rims available
    20-25 years ago. Those older clincher rims were light,
    fully socketed, box section, un-anodized, not welded, not
    `machined', and inexpensive.

    and many modern rims are lighter, higher profile and therefore stiffer,
    available with double eyelets just like before, box section just like
    before, anodized so they don't corrode for those of us that ride when
    the sun's not shining, welded for strength and consistency and balance,
    machined for more consistent braking performance and at $65 for an open
    pro, inexpensive. the double-eyeleted replacement rims for my mavic
    cosmos wheels were $60 the /pair/. how much were you paying for an ma2
    20 years ago and what's that worth in todays money?

    Quoted message said:

    Clincher rims are one bicycle
    part that are in every regard worse than they used to be.

    untrue, by any logical metric.

    Quoted message said:


    As for a recommendation, see if you can find some Torelli
    Master rims.

  5. Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve


    how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
    - if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
    wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
    and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
    hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
    fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

  6. "Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve

    Velocity rims and Sapim spokes.
    http://www.velocityusa.com/
    http://www.sapim.be/

    Built a pair with the Deep-Vs and Velocity hubs and laced each with 36
    Lasers. Like 'em.

    mC

  7. daveornee said:
    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve

    Velocity Fusion or Aerohead
    Mavic OpenPro of CXP-ss
    DT-1.1

    Fusion or CXP-33 fronts-28 2 cross, Rev spkes. All rears, 14/15/3cross
    brass. DT, Aerohead and OpenPro front 32 3cross, Rev spokes...

    Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

    Quoted message said:

    Velocity Aerohead with Aerohead OC in rear makes a good combination for
    someone your weight.
    I suggest Sapim Laser 14/17 DB spokes front and left rear + Sapim Race
    14/15 DB spokes right rear.
    I just built another pair that way and they work very well.

    --
    daveornee

  8. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

    thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
    rim and hub combo).

    D'ohBoy

  9. D'ohBoy said:
    Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

    thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
    rim and hub combo).

    D'ohBoy

    $50 or more per wheel!?! Are they that much better than DT?

    Robin Hubert

  10. While you guys are on the topic of rims, what about open pros versus
    MA3? MA3 is cheaper, heavier, single eyelet, but the extrusion has 3
    boxed sections and I believe I saw it was listed as suitable for use as
    a touring rim? So would this be a stronger rim than open pro?

    thanks,
    Ernie

    D'ohBoy said:
    Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

    thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
    rim and hub combo).

    D'ohBoy

  11. Ernie said:

    While you guys are on the topic of rims, what about open pros versus
    MA3? MA3 is cheaper, heavier, single eyelet, but the extrusion has 3
    boxed sections and I believe I saw it was listed as suitable for use as
    a touring rim? So would this be a stronger rim than open pro?

    You definitely don't want an MA3, but I doubt you'd find any. They were
    replaced with the Open Sport which is a bit heavier, but till single
    eyelet. The MA3 had problems with spokes pulling through.

    The Open Pro has sockets (a.k.a. double eyelets) and are lighter.

    Art Harris

  12. Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    ......


    Sun CR-18, half the price of a Mavic Open Pro, at least as durable, and
    a whopping 50 grams heavier (probably less than the Open Pro's
    manufacturing tolerance).

    Good luck,
    Tom

  13. On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve


    how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
    - if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
    wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
    and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
    hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
    fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

    Jim,

    So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
    sealed pre-built wheels?

    After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
    wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
    them custom made out of select components.

    The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
    Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
    inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
    good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
    sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.

    I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
    wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
    criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
    as well that I should be considering?

    It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs and work
    up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
    Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
    cassette on an MTB freehub.

    Thanks,

    Steve

  14. Steve Sr. said:

    On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve


    how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
    - if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
    wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
    and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
    hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
    fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

    Jim,

    So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
    sealed pre-built wheels?

    that's been my experience, yes. i only bought some to see if all the
    negative hoopla here on r.b.t was accurate, and have found my
    pre-built's to be perfectly reliable. [with the exception of trashing
    rims on a giant pothole at least - but that's not the wheel's fault.]

    Quoted message said:


    After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
    wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
    them custom made out of select components.

    sure. a good quality hand built wheel can be a joy, but two factors
    stand against them:

    1. it's /very/ hard to find a good builder. i've tried about 6
    different highly reputable builders here in the san francisco bay area
    and only one has proven to me that he can build a wheel that stays true
    under my weight. that's len at the bike nook in sf.

    2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
    substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
    myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
    32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
    bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
    to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
    mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
    time.

    Quoted message said:


    The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
    Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
    inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
    good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
    sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.

    stick to major brands and make sure they haven't been "helped".

    Quoted message said:


    I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
    wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
    criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
    as well that I should be considering?

    i only mention the cosmos because i have direct personal experience of
    them and their hub seal proficiency. i weigh #205 and have found them
    to remain perfectly true straight out of the box. they do have the
    lower spoke count, but if they work with my weight, they'll /definitely/
    work with yours. i've also got a pair of shimano r540's which i've
    found reliable, but i wouldn't' recommend them for wet stuff because
    they just have standard shimano seals.

    Quoted message said:


    It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs

    sure. while they'll be just dandy, you'll still be using j-bend spokes
    and be dependent on finding a competent wheel builder.

    Quoted message said:

    and work
    up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
    Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
    cassette on an MTB freehub.

    i'm pretty sure that if they're both shimano, you can. the freehub
    bodies are identical afaik. it's only the 10-speed d/a that can't take
    the 9-speed cassette. check sheldon's web site - i think he's got a
    cross-compatibility chart.

    Quoted message said:


    Thanks,

    Steve

  15. "Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
    sealed pre-built wheels?

    I doubt it. Possible exception: Campagnolo wheels. Big $$ though.

    Modern rims are generally poor, as anodizing, machining, seam welding and
    the lack of nipple sockets are all major problems. Oh, and the current
    generation rims weigh a ton.

    I find older rims such as MA2s, Sun M14s and Ambrosio Elites to be clearly
    superior.

    I get my rims from the basements of older bike shops. I've never paid more
    than $35 for a rim. Actually, I rarely pay this for an entire wheel.

    Mate the older rims with Shimano cassette hubs, double-butted stainless
    spokes, and most importantly a good wheelbuilder, and you have the parts for
    a perfect set of wheels.

  16. On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:20:15 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
    substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
    myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
    32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
    bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
    to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
    mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
    time.

    [snip]

    Dear Jim,

    My almost flat, non-aero front rim (not even box section) and 700c x
    26 front tire and rim are about 38mm thick.

    Most posters would have thicker tire and rim combinations.

    At a circumference of about 2100mm, that's 38 x 2100 = 79,800 mm^2 of
    tire and rim, as viewed by a side wind.

    With about 290mm of my 36 straight 2mm spokes exposed, that's 36 x 290
    x 2 = 20,880 mm^2.

    Some crude theoretical calculations:

    290mm 2mm 38mm 36 32 28 24
    spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
    count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
    ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
    36 20,880 79,800 100,680 100.0% 102.4% 104.8% 107.4%
    32 18,560 79,800 98,360 97.7% 100.0% 102.4% 105.0%
    28 16,240 79,800 96,040 95.4% 97.6% 100.0% 102.5%
    24 13,920 79,800 93,720 93.1% 95.3% 97.6% 100.0%

    So on my front wheel, it looks as if the simple sideways area changes
    only about 5% between 32 and 24 spokes.

    My wheel, of course, maximizes this difference with thick 2.0mm
    straight spokes and thin rim+tire combination.

    With thinner spokes and a thicker box-section or even aero rim, the
    effect on area of a spoke count reduction from 32 to 24 would be even
    smaller.

    With straight 1.8mm spokes (a rough approximation of the kind of thin,
    butted spokes often mentioned) and a rim+tire thickness of about 45mm
    for a modest box-section with mild aero profile, reducing the exposed
    spoke-length to 283mm (like a wheel hanging in my garage) . . .

    2100 x 45 = 94,500 mm^2 rim+tire side-view area

    36 x 1.8 x 283 = 18,338 mm^2 spoke area

    283mm 1.8mm 45mm 36 32 28 24
    spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
    count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
    ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
    36 18,338 94,500 112,838 100.0% 101.8% 103.7% 105.7%
    32 16,301 94,500 110,801 98.2% 100.0% 101.9% 103.8%
    28 14,263 94,500 108,763 96.4% 98.2% 100.0% 101.9%
    24 12,226 94,500 106,726 94.6% 96.3% 98.1% 100.0%

    This suggests that most posters would see a 3.7% drop in side-view
    front wheel+rim+spoke area if they dropped from 32 to 24 spokes (or
    gain 3.8% if they added 8 spokes to a 24-spoke wheel).

    Aerodynamics is a tricky matter, so raw side area may somehow be
    deceptive

    But the 8-spoke count reduction sounds like less than a 3% change.

    Moving from one kind of rim to another in my poorly stocked garage can
    reduce side area from 94,500 mm^2 to 79,800 mm^2, which is 8.4%.
    almost three times as much.

    The winds on the Golden Gate vary more than that much every day. They
    also blow sideways against the handlebars, fork legs, levers, hands,
    and arms of the rider.

    So I'm curious what the spoke thicknesses and exposed lengths are on
    the two wheels that you rode, as well as how thick the tire plus rim
    is on each wheel.

    The weight would be interesting, too. At speed, a heavier tire and
    wheel have more angular momentum and should be more stable in gusting
    winds.

    Maybe someone will have a link to wind tunnel tests, or an explanation
    of how the spokes have a much greater effect than would be expected.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  17. Steve Sr. said:

    On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Steve Sr. said:

    I am looking to build a set of road wheels and am looking for
    suggestions for suitable rims. Of course, I would like them to be as
    light as possible without sacrificing the durability.

    While we all appreciate a litle nostalgia please limit your
    suggestions to rims that are still available. Previously I think I
    remember hearing about Mavic rims being a good choice but not any
    more. Apparently their quality has suffered in the race for "stupid
    light" and marketing fad of the day. What would you build up a pair of
    wheels with today?

    BTW, I weigh about 160 pounds and the roads in this area are somewhat
    rough but not too many potholes to hit.

    Thanks,

    Steve


    how much do you want to spend? you asked earlier about well sealed hubs
    - if you want them + good rims + a good build, get a mavic cosmos
    wheelset. open-pro type rims, straight pull spokes to resist fatigue,
    and very very well sealed hubs. you'll easily spend the same money on
    hand built wheels with inferior hubs. they cope with my weight just
    fine - your measly #160 is no problem.

    Jim,

    So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
    sealed pre-built wheels?

    After all of the talk and answers I have been hearing was that if you
    wanted wheels that met these criteria you pretty much had to have
    them custom made out of select components.

    The pre-built wheels seemed to be pretty much like the Real Design
    Supersphere "boutique" wheels I currently have. Low spoke count and
    inferior components at rip-off pricing. The only thing I have found
    good about these wheels is the sealed bearings. The freehub isn't
    sealed hardly at all and now at 4000 miles the rear rim has cracked.

    I would definitely be interested in looking at complete pre-built
    wheels if they meet the well sealed and durable 32 or 36 spoke
    criteria. You specifically mentioned the Mavic Cosmos are there others
    as well that I should be considering?

    It looks like my other option would be to go with Phil hubs and work
    up from there since no one has much regard for the sealing on
    Shimano's road hubs and I don't think you can put a 10 speed road
    cassette on an MTB freehub.

    Thanks,

    Steve

    I've had good luck with my custom wheels that were built by Colorado
    Cyclist. They've got Ultegra hubs, 36 14ga spokes laced in a cross-3
    pattern, and Mavic CXP-33 rims. I haven't had to lay a spoke wrench on
    them in over three years, including some rough gravel road riding. I'm
    not sure how well sealed they are, though. I haven't done much rain
    riding with them.

    Smokey

  18. D'ohBoy said:
    Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Sapim spokes are fine but hard to find in all lengths.

    thorusa.com. All lengths (or as many as one would need for a common
    rim and hub combo).

    D'ohBoy

    BUT the supplier of Sapim in the US-KHS(not the MTB KHS) does not have
    all lengths. If I'm going to stock up on sapim spokes, to replace the
    5000 or so I have in DT, I'll want to pay wholesale, thanks.

  19. Dave Mayer said:

    "Steve Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:49:04 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    So you are saying that it is possible to find good, durable, and well
    sealed pre-built wheels?

    I doubt it. Possible exception: Campagnolo wheels. Big $$ though.

    Modern rims are generally poor, as anodizing, machining, seam welding and
    the lack of nipple sockets are all major problems. Oh, and the current
    generation rims weigh a ton.

    anodizing protects, machining ensures consistency, welding ensures
    strength, consistency and better weight distribution, and the eyelet
    thing is a complete red herring. i'm surprised you didn't try to say
    that machined rims are thinner:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/121453841/

    Quoted message said:


    I find older rims such as MA2s, Sun M14s and Ambrosio Elites to be clearly
    superior.

    er, weight of the ma2 vs. open pro please?

    Quoted message said:


    I get my rims from the basements of older bike shops. I've never paid more
    than $35 for a rim. Actually, I rarely pay this for an entire wheel.

    Mate the older rims with Shimano cassette hubs, double-butted stainless
    spokes, and most importantly a good wheelbuilder, and you have the parts for
    a perfect set of wheels.

  20. Quoted message said:

    On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:20:15 -0700, jim beam <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    2. i was also surprised to discover that low spoke count wheels can be a
    substantial benefit when riding in strong cross winds. i proved that to
    myself again the other weekend. had a flat so quickly grabbed a spare
    32 spoke wheel and used that on my commute across the golden gate
    bridge. it was startling how much difference the extra spoke count made
    to cross-wind handling. next day, back to normal, 24 count front on the
    mavic cosmos, much less wrestling required. try that for yourself some
    time.

    [snip]

    Dear Jim,

    My almost flat, non-aero front rim (not even box section) and 700c x
    26 front tire and rim are about 38mm thick.

    Most posters would have thicker tire and rim combinations.

    At a circumference of about 2100mm, that's 38 x 2100 = 79,800 mm^2 of
    tire and rim, as viewed by a side wind.

    With about 290mm of my 36 straight 2mm spokes exposed, that's 36 x 290
    x 2 = 20,880 mm^2.

    Some crude theoretical calculations:

    290mm 2mm 38mm 36 32 28 24
    spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
    count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
    ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
    36 20,880 79,800 100,680 100.0% 102.4% 104.8% 107.4%
    32 18,560 79,800 98,360 97.7% 100.0% 102.4% 105.0%
    28 16,240 79,800 96,040 95.4% 97.6% 100.0% 102.5%
    24 13,920 79,800 93,720 93.1% 95.3% 97.6% 100.0%

    So on my front wheel, it looks as if the simple sideways area changes
    only about 5% between 32 and 24 spokes.

    My wheel, of course, maximizes this difference with thick 2.0mm
    straight spokes and thin rim+tire combination.

    With thinner spokes and a thicker box-section or even aero rim, the
    effect on area of a spoke count reduction from 32 to 24 would be even
    smaller.

    With straight 1.8mm spokes (a rough approximation of the kind of thin,
    butted spokes often mentioned) and a rim+tire thickness of about 45mm
    for a modest box-section with mild aero profile, reducing the exposed
    spoke-length to 283mm (like a wheel hanging in my garage) . . .

    2100 x 45 = 94,500 mm^2 rim+tire side-view area

    36 x 1.8 x 283 = 18,338 mm^2 spoke area

    283mm 1.8mm 45mm 36 32 28 24
    spoke spoke rim+tire total spoke spoke spoke spoke
    count mm^2 mm^2 mm^2 change change change change
    ----- ------ -------- ------- ------ ------ ------ ------
    36 18,338 94,500 112,838 100.0% 101.8% 103.7% 105.7%
    32 16,301 94,500 110,801 98.2% 100.0% 101.9% 103.8%
    28 14,263 94,500 108,763 96.4% 98.2% 100.0% 101.9%
    24 12,226 94,500 106,726 94.6% 96.3% 98.1% 100.0%

    This suggests that most posters would see a 3.7% drop in side-view
    front wheel+rim+spoke area if they dropped from 32 to 24 spokes (or
    gain 3.8% if they added 8 spokes to a 24-spoke wheel).

    Aerodynamics is a tricky matter, so raw side area may somehow be
    deceptive

    But the 8-spoke count reduction sounds like less than a 3% change.

    Moving from one kind of rim to another in my poorly stocked garage can
    reduce side area from 94,500 mm^2 to 79,800 mm^2, which is 8.4%.
    almost three times as much.

    The winds on the Golden Gate vary more than that much every day. They
    also blow sideways against the handlebars, fork legs, levers, hands,
    and arms of the rider.

    So I'm curious what the spoke thicknesses and exposed lengths are on
    the two wheels that you rode, as well as how thick the tire plus rim
    is on each wheel.

    The weight would be interesting, too. At speed, a heavier tire and
    wheel have more angular momentum and should be more stable in gusting
    winds.

    Maybe someone will have a link to wind tunnel tests, or an explanation
    of how the spokes have a much greater effect than would be expected.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    thanks carl. believe me, the most surprised person on this subject is
    me. when i first compared these wheels, i took them both [same rim
    profile and tires] and swapped back and forth on the same day same test
    route. no doubt about it - the 24-spoker is /much/ less of a wrestle.
    the comparison is that when i ride the 32, i have to be alert to both
    sudden steering changes as well as balance due to wind on my body,
    particularly rounding the northern pylon, with steering being the
    dominant concern. on the 24, the dominant issue is balance, not
    steering. if you find yourself in sf, i'll loan you the two wheels so
    you can try for yourself. oh, and it's also noticeable when riding with
    others. two people same place, same wind gust, you can see one deviate
    much more than the other.

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