Frame Size Suggestions

It seems to me that you have all the information, and more, that you need to select a bike. More than just "in the ballpark". More like "right on the money"

thansk very much for your reply - how woudl you reccomend I translate this into the right frame size based on it's geometry fro me, thanks.

Bob

Xsmoker said:

It seems to me that you have all the information, and more, that you need to select a bike. More than just "in the ballpark". More like "right on the money"

Looks like a 63cm frame. Unless you have a frame custom built the rest of the geometry will be what it is. Other aspests of the fit can be taken care of by the LBS when he, or she delivers the bike.

rpsmithii said:

Would appreciate input on a frame size to get me in the ball park.

Looking at either LiteSpeed Tuscany or BlueRidge:

Application: relaxed posture (non racing) primarily for fitness (70% of miles) and long weekend rides (50-60 miles) with some steep and long climbs (No. Ga Mountains).

Here are measurements taken by my local bike shop...

Pedals Look Keo
Shoes Diadora Road
Height 187.5 cm 6'3"
Weight 112.4 kg 225 lbs
Inseam 95.0 cm 38"
Shoulder Width 44 cm
Calculated Seat Tube 62.415 cm

Geometry
Seat Tube 63 cm
Top Tube 56.5 cm
Seat Angle 73 degrees
Seat Post Setback 25 mm

Bike Setup
Saddle Height 83.5 cm
Handlebar Width 44 cm

Saddle Setback
Stem Height 17 cm
Stem Length 100 mm
Crank Length 177.5 mm
Handlebar Reach 86 mm
Handlebar Drop 144 mm
Saddle Top to HB 670 mm
Saddle Tip to HB 57.8 cm
Saddle to Stem Dr 2.0 cm
Saddle Rail Position Centered
Saddle Oreintation 2 degrees nose down

X/Y Coordinates
Handlebar X 76.8 cm Y 42.8 cm
Saddle Height X 26 Y 74.5

Thanks very much - would like to start keeping my eye out for either of these frames.

Bob

How did your local bike shop get those numbers for the frame?

There is a disconnect in the top tube & stem lengths for your indicated height.

Is that seat tube length a theoretical from the center of the crank to the base of the saddle (i.e., the saddle's rails)?

FWIW. Regardless, based on the riding you indicate you want to do, I would recommend a 57cm or 59cm BlueRidge [CX & touring frames are generally sized 1-size smaller than comparable road frames because the BB is higher ... a 58cm top tube might be better -- it depends on whether the top tube is horizontal OR sloped in those two frame sizes AND whether they are measuring to the top of the tube or the center] with a 120mm stem (it is easier to buy a new stem than a new frame, so I would be inclined toward the one with the slightly shorter top tube -- one with a ~17º angle will allow you to flip-flop it to a higher/lower positiion if necessary) ... probably a 400mm (?) Easton seatpost (it has more setback than most) ... Truvativ has a TRUE 46cm (c-c) road bar whose brake mounting area is also 46cm wide (c-c). Since 177.5mm cranks are generally "special order" you probably want to go with 180mm (custom 200mm from Zinn would be even better, but whose got that kind of money?) Campagnolo Record OR Shimano Dura Ace OR even XT cranks with a 48mm "touring" chainring. Campagnolo ERGO shifters handle downshifting when under load better than Shimano shifters, IMO.

My "old" fast-touring frame has a 57cm top tube with which I used a 9cm Cinelli stem -- I'm 5'9" ... I'll bet my arms + hands are a lot more than 1cm shorter than yours.

REGARDLESS, a 100mm stem with a 56.5 top tube is WAY TO SHORT for you ... which makes me suspicious of the entire measurement process -- if you (anyone being fitted) hasn't been on a bike for a long time, then you aren't as limber as you will probably be after a month-or-two ... at which time, you will feel very uncomfortable (cramped) on the bike if it is sized as suggested with the abbreviated 100mm stem + 56.5cm top tube. The frame fit should ALSO have taken into account your torso length, your arm length, and even your femur length, IMO.

BTW. The BlueRidge will give you the option of larger tires (e.g., 700x28, or larger!) and/or fenders -- probably a good thing to consider. The longer chainstays will make the ride more comfortable by locating the rear wheel about a centimeter further behind wherever your saddle is positioned and reduce the vertical motion from rough roadways/whatever ... AND, more importantly, there is less likelihood of your heel interfering with the rear derailleur, and vice-versa.

double check your measurement using the competitive cyclist fit calculator.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

rpsmithii said:

Would appreciate input on a frame size to get me in the ball park.

Looking at either LiteSpeed Tuscany or BlueRidge:

Application: relaxed posture (non racing) primarily for fitness (70% of miles) and long weekend rides (50-60 miles) with some steep and long climbs (No. Ga Mountains).

Here are measurements taken by my local bike shop...

Pedals Look Keo
Shoes Diadora Road
Height 187.5 cm 6'3"
Weight 112.4 kg 225 lbs
Inseam 95.0 cm 38"
Shoulder Width 44 cm
Calculated Seat Tube 62.415 cm

Geometry
Seat Tube 63 cm
Top Tube 56.5 cm
Seat Angle 73 degrees
Seat Post Setback 25 mm

Bike Setup
Saddle Height 83.5 cm
Handlebar Width 44 cm

Saddle Setback
Stem Height 17 cm
Stem Length 100 mm
Crank Length 177.5 mm
Handlebar Reach 86 mm
Handlebar Drop 144 mm
Saddle Top to HB 670 mm
Saddle Tip to HB 57.8 cm
Saddle to Stem Dr 2.0 cm
Saddle Rail Position Centered
Saddle Oreintation 2 degrees nose down

X/Y Coordinates
Handlebar X 76.8 cm Y 42.8 cm
Saddle Height X 26 Y 74.5

Thanks very much - would like to start keeping my eye out for either of these frames.

Bob

I am 5'8'' & 140lbs of normal build. I ride a 56cm virtual top tube and 110mm stem. This was determined 6 years ago by a bike fit clinic put on by a TDF pro, with more electronic diagnostic equipment than I thought existed. Afterwards, I went home and measured everything, referenced to the bottom bracket, and put it in a safe. Every year, I buy a new frameset and build a new bike. All I care about, is that I get a 56cm top tube. Only a little simplistic, but everything else, can be adjusted to greater extremes than needed and, if you buy a complete bike, your LBS will do that even if he has to exchange some components. Have a qualified person find what top tube lenght you need, using a mid length stem, so you can go longer or shorter if your preference every changes.

lks said:

I am 5'8'' & 140lbs of normal build. I ride a 56cm virtual top tube and 110mm stem. This was determined 6 years ago by a bike fit clinic put on by a TDF pro, with more electronic diagnostic equipment than I thought existed. Afterwards, I went home and measured everything, referenced to the bottom bracket, and put it in a safe. Every year, I buy a new frameset and build a new bike. All I care about, is that I get a 56cm top tube. Only a little simplistic, but everything else, can be adjusted to greater extremes than needed and, if you buy a complete bike, your LBS will do that even if he has to exchange some components. Have a qualified person find what top tube lenght you need, using a mid length stem, so you can go longer or shorter if your preference every changes.

I want to re-enforce this notion of "proper" top tube length ... and, excluding compensation for injury, you will (should!) probably always be fitted with close to the same length top tube & stem, give-or-take a centimeter.

My FIRST 10-speed was a 60cm Gitane (can you believe the bike shop sold that to me?) with a 57cm top tube & 90mm stem. When I got the fast-touring frame that I alluded to, I sized it based on the Gitane's top tube, and ended up with a 56cm frame.

I'm not quite as religious about buying my frames, but decades later, the length of the top tube + stem is as close to the same as possible on the various frames as that old measurement -- currently, 53cm top tube with a 120 stem & a 54cm top tube with a 110 stem ... essentially, the same overall length as on that old Gitane! The only difference is that instead of riding with my hands on the drops ALL THE TIME, I'm on the tops or hoods more (so, my actual "reach" is probably about the same as on the old Gitane when I was in the drops); but, my riding posture is NOT (make that, has never been) as aggressive as lks's since I'm not a competitive rider.

The bend of my handlebars varies (where's the continuity?!?) -- but, I set the levers so that the back of the "horn" on the levers is as close to the same distance from the measured center of the REAR of the saddle as possible ... the saddle is positioned relative to the cranks ...

ONE RIDER (who I think logs about 50 miles of "recreational" riding EVERY DAY -- I've spoken to him briefly -- who I see almost every time when I am out riding) has BMX bars on his road bike which allows him to sit rather upright ... bikes with "flat" bars generally are sized with an even longer top tube than bikes which are fitted with drop bars ...

FWIW. IF you didn't want a "relaxed" riding position, I would think that someone your height would have a frame with a 59cm top tube + ~120mm stem on a "regular" ROAD bike. I think that Colnago (just as an example) doesn't sell an off-the-shelf frame with a top tube that is longer than 59cm.

6'3"? Phark...

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