Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Seat Post Clamping

Started by Ernst Blofeld · · Last activity · 12 posts · 458 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
6 August 2006
Last activity
12 August 2006
Original author
Ernst Blofeld
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12
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  1. I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

  2. Ernst Blofeld said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

    The first thing to do is see what the actual dimensions of the post and
    the seat tube opening are - ie, unless you have calipers, take it to a
    shape so they can measure the post and the opening (or use sizing rods
    on the opening.)

  3. Ernst Blofeld said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

    I used to have a sliping seatpost problem once, could never get it to
    hold, till I read somewhere to apply a bit of grease to the post; I was
    doubtful, because I thought it would just make the problem worse, but I
    tried it and it worked ! Your current collar might be designed to apply
    the required torque for your post, and no more. You have nothing to
    lose by just trying a bit of grease as I did.

  4. Quoted message said:


    Ernst Blofeld said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

    I used to have a sliping seatpost problem once, could never get it to
    hold, till I read somewhere to apply a bit of grease to the post; I was
    doubtful, because I thought it would just make the problem worse, but I
    tried it and it worked ! Your current collar might be designed to apply
    the required torque for your post, and no more. You have nothing to
    lose by just trying a bit of grease as I did.

    Isn't there a rule about NOT greasing carbon?

    Ron

  5. Ernst Blofeld said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

    New carbon frameand seatpost?? Two things are 'wrong' first, the
    seatpost 'may' be undersized, not unusual, measure it and warranty if
    too small. Second the frame might be oversized...again, not unheard
    of...warranty issue if it is.

  6. RonSonic said:
    Quoted message said:


    Ernst Blofeld said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here? Shim the post? Shim the inside of the seat
    tube? What material should I use for a shim and how can I keep it in
    place?

    Or is a sturdier clamping collar a better choice? I'm worried about
    over-clamping on the carbon.

    I used to have a sliping seatpost problem once, could never get it to
    hold, till I read somewhere to apply a bit of grease to the post; I was
    doubtful, because I thought it would just make the problem worse, but I
    tried it and it worked ! Your current collar might be designed to apply
    the required torque for your post, and no more. You have nothing to
    lose by just trying a bit of grease as I did.

    Isn't there a rule about NOT greasing carbon?

    Ron

    The rule we follow is no grease only on carbon-carbon-mixed materials,
    yes use grease or it will get stuck eventually-Recently saw ruined
    Giant and Trek with stuck aluminum posts...

  7. RonSonic said:

    Isn't there a rule about NOT greasing carbon?

    According to Craig Calfee, there's nothing destructive about grease and
    carbon fiber contacting each other. The grease won't attack the resin.

    There's a possibility that aluminum will corrode when in contact with
    carbon fiber; the two materials have different galvanic potentials and
    the aluminum can corrode and possibly freeze the seatpost in place. So
    there's some rationale for greasing an aluminum seatpost going into a
    carbon fiber frame. With a carbon seatpost the grease is optional; use
    it if it's a tight fit.

    I've got a carbon seatpost on the way, but I'm using aluminum now.

  8. Nate Knutson said:

    The first thing to do is see what the actual dimensions of the post and
    the seat tube opening are - ie, unless you have calipers, take it to a
    shape so they can measure the post and the opening (or use sizing rods
    on the opening.)

    With my brand new nifty digital calipers (never pass up an excuse to
    buy
    tools) the frame measures as 27.25mm with no torque on the binder,
    seatpost #1 (Salsa) as 27.15mm, and no-name post #2 as 27.17mm.

  9. The solution was a sturdier seat post binder, in this case a Salsa
    Lip-Lock, http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_skewers.html.
    It's a better design than the old one, though a few grams
    heavier.

    New carbon fiber seat post as well. No grease on the pin.

  10. Ernst Blofeld said:

    The solution was a sturdier seat post binder, in this case a Salsa
    Lip-Lock, http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_skewers.html.

    That style is much better since it doesn't bend the bolt.

    I stuck some strips of teflon plumbing tape down the seat tube of my
    bike recently... leaving the ends draped over the top. Hold onto the
    ends as you stick the post in, and snip off the excess. I was trying to
    solve a creaking problem (didn't work) but it should work well for
    snugging up a loose post or making sure it doesn't get corroded in
    place.

  11. Ernst Blofeld said:

    The solution was a sturdier seat post binder, in this case a Salsa
    Lip-Lock, http://www.salsacycles.com/comps_skewers.html.
    It's a better design than the old one, though a few grams
    heavier.

    New carbon fiber seat post as well. No grease on the pin.

    A suggestion, turn the clamp around so that the split in the frame is
    opposite the split in the clamp-keeps the 'hole' rounder to prevent
    crushing of the seat pin...

  12. Ernst Blofeld ha scritto:

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a new carbon frame. Obstensibly the seat post diameter is
    27.2, but the carbon at the clamp area is pretty thick, and the
    clamping collar is aluminum and fairly flimsy. I can't get enough
    clamping force to keep the seat post in place. When there's no clamping
    force at all the seat post slides very easily up and down. I don't have
    any grease on the post.

    I'm thinking I may have to shim something to get it to stay in place.
    What are my options here?

    You are lucky, indeed.
    Get yourself a little bit of mylar film of suitable thickness; cut out
    a piece in the shape of a trapezoid to be inserted, inverted, between
    the post and the frame tube. You will force it in just as far as need
    (to be trimmed off later).
    That shim will improve the fit and prevent any corrosion due to
    interface contact.

    Sergio
    Pisa

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