Rear Wheel Failure

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by mrd
I have a Specialized Allez Elite which I purchased in January 2003. I love it except that I have been having problems with the rear wheel failing with broken spokes and now a cracked hub. Broken spokes have occured about every 1200 miles. The wheels on this bike are Alex ATX-330 (20 hole rear). I weigh around 185lbs so was not thinking that I was too heavy for the wheels -- but maybe I am? Does anyone have any information on the realibility of these wheels? I also commute to work 1-2 times/week and use two panniers (weighing 10lbs total). Could this have something to do with the failures. I am just trying to figure out why I am having these problems.

It could be that the wheel was not built with the correct tension from the beginning. It could also be the tire pressure in the wheel was not high enough. Also, how are the roads that you ride on? Are they chuck-hole laden? All this would affect the life span of any wheel.

Best Wishes,
Vector7

The short answer, IMO, is that you don't have enough spokes in your rear wheel for real road riding. Even 32 spoke wheels won't last forever on the back, but ought to last 5000 miles or more before the first spoke breaks. After that, in my experience, you'll be needing a new wheel soon.

Not sure what hubs came on your bike, but hub shouldn't crack. If you go to a Shimano 105 or Ultegra hub, and a Mavic rim, believe you'll have a lot better luck. Either way, wheels and tires are a big part of your maintenance expense in riding a bike.

Opinion: The mid-price, mass-market bikes are being sold with stuff that looks racey in the store, but has limited durability. Any 20 spoke rear with "acceptable" life is going to be very expense wheel. But, if Specialized can "leave out" 12 spokes and sell more bikes at the same cost, it's hard for me to fault them. The major brands are only responding to many customers who come in asking for the lightest frame or lowest spoke-count wheels they can get for X dollars.....without a clue as to benefits or trade-offs involved.

You're one of the buyers who's actually riding the bike, which is great....time to upgrade the wheelset from OEM is my suggestion.

Dan

Yup, exactly what dhk posted. Time for a wheel upgrade. I started with some Alex rims that looked cool. They were pretty functional (even though I top 190lbs) too, but after about 2000 miles I started breaking spokes so I opted for Ksyrium Elites. Upgrading to better wheels is well worth the bucks. Even if you end up with a new frame down the road you can still use the better wheels for that one. Like in life, you usually get what you pay for in terms of quality and durability. Even a high end low spoke count wheel is not going to last a bigger rider indefinitely. Most of them were designed for racing little 145lb riders around a crit course.

Yes, Ksyrium Elites do have a good rep around here, but I'd also look at the Cosmos over the Elite for general high-mileage training and long backroad rides. 28 straightpull spokes in back, with 3X lacing ought to be good for lots of miles,and a good ride quality, for about $300.

Another good option is to have your LBS build up wheels on your hubs. I've gotten my 1992 Ultegra 7-sp hubs rebuilt twice now by two different LBS with fine results....true wheels that hold up for years. About $200. Wouldn't do this on cheap hubs though.

If you don't have a good wheelbuilder at your LBS, you can always order a set from Colo Cyclist (I've had good luck with them). Can get your choice of hubs and Mavic rims, straight or butted spokes, 28, 32, or 36 hole options, etc.

I'll admit I'm big on durability: don't like wheels that go "ping" after a couple of thousand miles. Good luck.

Dan

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by dhk
Yes, Ksyrium Elites do have a good rep around here, but I'd also look at the Cosmos over the Elite for general high-mileage training and long backroad rides. 28 straightpull spokes in back, with 3X lacing ought to be good for lots of miles,and a good ride quality, for about $300.

Another good option is to have your LBS build up wheels on your hubs. I've gotten my 1992 Ultegra 7-sp hubs rebuilt twice now by two different LBS with fine results....true wheels that hold up for years. About $200. Wouldn't do this on cheap hubs though.

If you don't have a good wheelbuilder at your LBS, you can always order a set from Colo Cyclist (I've had good luck with them). Can get your choice of hubs and Mavic rims, straight or butted spokes, 28, 32, or 36 hole options, etc.

I'll admit I'm big on durability: don't like wheels that go "ping" after a couple of thousand miles. Good luck.

Dan

Vector7, dhk and capwater,

Thanks so much for your responses. They have been very helpful. I have come to the conclusion (with your help) that a new wheel is in order. My LBS (actually Specialized) is covering the wheel under warranty. However my LBS has offered me the option of going with an identical replacement wheel or paying the difference between the cost of the existing wheel and a new wheel (I think they realize that I'll keep breaking the spokes before the warranty runs out).

Now my next question is: Do I need to match the front and rear wheels? That is, is it OK for me just to replace the rear wheel and keep the existing front wheel? What are the potential issues with having mis-matched wheels?

Thanks again.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by mrd
Vector7, dhk and capwater,

Thanks so much for your responses. They have been very helpful. I have come to the conclusion (with your help) that a new wheel is in order. My LBS (actually Specialized) is covering the wheel under warranty. However my LBS has offered me the option of going with an identical replacement wheel or paying the difference between the cost of the existing wheel and a new wheel (I think they realize that I'll keep breaking the spokes before the warranty runs out).

Now my next question is: Do I need to match the front and rear wheels? That is, is it OK for me just to replace the rear wheel and keep the existing front wheel? What are the potential issues with having mis-matched wheels?

Thanks again.

I would try and keep the wheels as pairs. The only reason I say this is because if you try and sell your bike in the future, you won't have to explain to the new buyer why you have two different wheels.

Best Wishes,
Vector7

Also check out performancebike.com. You can get custom built Mavic Open Pros with traditional 32 spokes for 300 bucks. That is an absolutely bombproof wheelset for training. If you ever get to the point of needing a true race wheel you can always pick up a decent pair of low spoke count models such as Bontrager Race Lites ($300).

As Vector7 said, mismatched wheels could be an issue if you sell the bike. Also, some people just don't like the appearance of mismatched wheels or tires. Other than that, not a problem at all as long as your front wheel stays true. My experience has been that front wheels and tires last about 3X longer than the rear's.

Had mismatched wheels for several years, and currently have mismatched tires on my bike. This spring, I let the LBS sell me a set of black Michelin ProRace tires to go with my new black rims, despite my poor experience with Michelin slicks. Anyway, I cut through the new rear tire on about the 3 ride out, so just put the worn Conti back on. It may look funny, but I couldn't stand to throw out a 1/2 worn $50 tire....yep, I'm a cheapskate.

Dan