Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Quality long lasting BB?

Started by A.Lee · · Last activity · 7 posts · 402 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
24 July 2006
Last activity
29 July 2006
Original author
A.Lee
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7
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  1. I'm having to change the BB on my cross bike every 6 months or so, I've
    used some of the Shimano range, and the more expensive ones dont seem to
    last any longer than the cheaper ones (ukp 15 to 30ish).
    My most recent BB was a Campy, cannot recall which model, but now that
    is showing a bit of play - it is always the bearings that start wearing.

    Any recommendations for a decent BB that will last a bit longer, or has
    replaceable bearings, or should I stick with the cheapies, and change
    them when they wear out?
    Thanks
    Alan.
    --
    To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

  2. You can replace the bearings in the Campy BB, they're very reasonble.
    I've seen the original Campy versions for sale on EBay for around $10.

    The real question is, why are you going through BB's so fast? Maybe it's a
    problem with your BB being off as far as the threading goes?
    I typically go 3-4 years on a Campy BB, even on my rain bike here in
    Seattle; it gets usually several thousand rainy miles/year.

    -pete

    "A.Lee" <alan@darkroom.+.com> wrote in message
    news:1hj01za.8b0mxyg8w07tN%alan@darkroom.+.com...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm having to change the BB on my cross bike every 6 months or so, I've
    used some of the Shimano range, and the more expensive ones dont seem to
    last any longer than the cheaper ones (ukp 15 to 30ish).
    My most recent BB was a Campy, cannot recall which model, but now that
    is showing a bit of play - it is always the bearings that start wearing.

    Any recommendations for a decent BB that will last a bit longer, or has
    replaceable bearings, or should I stick with the cheapies, and change
    them when they wear out?
    Thanks
    Alan.
    --
    To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

  3. Pete Grey said:

    The real question is, why are you going through BB's so fast? Maybe it's a
    problem with your BB being off as far as the threading goes?
    I typically go 3-4 years on a Campy BB, even on my rain bike here in
    Seattle; it gets usually several thousand rainy miles/year.

    I've wondered this myself,a nd after taking out this old BB, found it
    was an expensive FSA Titanium, which I promptly ruined when I tried to
    undo it - I resorted to a cold chisel and hammer to remove it when it
    wouldnt shift.
    When removed, it was obvious why it had worn - the outer bearing shells
    are sealed, but the internal ones were open, so water had seeped into
    the gap in the centre tube, got into the bearings, and they were shot
    quickly.
    I've gone for the cheap route now, mainly as the LBS only had this one
    in stock (a Stronglight, supposedly sealed for life, and twice the
    weight of the old one).
    Alan.
    --
    To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

  4. In article <1hj3i5p.xyn3xf1yzeitcN%alan@darkroom.+.com>,

    alan@darkroom.+.com (A.Lee) said:
    Pete Grey said:

    The real question is, why are you going through BB's so fast?
    Maybe it's a problem with your BB being off as far as the threading
    goes? I typically go 3-4 years on a Campy BB, even on my rain bike
    here in Seattle; it gets usually several thousand rainy miles/year.

    I've wondered this myself,a nd after taking out this old BB, found it
    was an expensive FSA Titanium, which I promptly ruined when I tried
    to undo it - I resorted to a cold chisel and hammer to remove it when
    it wouldnt shift.

    To get it out of the frame? Yikes.

    Quoted message said:

    When removed, it was obvious why it had worn - the outer bearing
    shells are sealed, but the internal ones were open, so water had
    seeped into the gap in the centre tube, got into the bearings, and
    they were shot quickly.

    Well, you could stop the water ingress I suppose. Seal up the slot at
    the top of the seat tube for the seat post pinch bolt (grease works,
    beeswax works too). Install a rear fender. Drill a drainage hole in
    the very bottom of the bottom bracket to let the water run out. Stop
    swimming with your bike. ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    I've gone for the cheap route
    now, mainly as the LBS only had this one in stock (a Stronglight,
    supposedly sealed for life, and twice the weight of the old one).

    That's unimportant.

  5. Two words:

    Phil Wood.

    I jave over 51 thousand miles on mine, all original equipment an it's
    still going stong.

    - -
    Comments and opinions compliments of,
    "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    My web Site:
    http://geocities.com/czcorner

    To E-mail me:
    ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net

  6. Hmmm. I've managed to ruin a Phil Wood twice on my commuter. After the
    first rebuild I just put a Shimano sealed unit in there. At the price,
    I was losing money on the Phil Wood rebuilds.

    Chris Z The Wheelman said:

    Two words:

    Phil Wood.

    I jave over 51 thousand miles on mine, all original equipment an it's
    still going stong.

    - -
    Comments and opinions compliments of,
    "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    My web Site:
    http://geocities.com/czcorner

    To E-mail me:
    ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net

  7. Quoted message said:

    Hmmm. I've managed to ruin a Phil Wood twice on my commuter. After the
    first rebuild I just put a Shimano sealed unit in there. At the price,
    I was losing money on the Phil Wood rebuilds.

    Chris Z The Wheelman said:

    Two words:

    Phil Wood.

    I jave over 51 thousand miles on mine, all original equipment an it's
    still going stong.

    - -
    Comments and opinions compliments of,
    "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    My web Site:
    http://geocities.com/czcorner

    To E-mail me:
    ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net


    He-he ....

    Robin Hubert

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