Noisy top gears

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20
speed record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only
problem is that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on
the back. It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't
lubed properly.

I've tried just about everything: Replace the chain, tried a different
back wheel with different block, tried different types of lube.

I have actually taken it back to the frame builders and, after
initially agreeing with me it was noisy, then they pretty much fobbed
me off by telling me they had made some adjustments and that I should
lube it more.

My opinion is that it's the frame itself thats slightly off, and it's
effecting the rear axel angle and hence chainline, but I'm really only
guessing. I mean, it could just be that I'm running a very high gear
ratio (53-11) and the titanium is amplifying the noise?

Bit lost here, but I've got a lifetime guarantee on the frame, and
I've asked them for a new one if they can't tell me why its noisy. If
anyone has got and useful advice try or other information, I'd be very
grateful.

Cable tension adjustment and/or limit screws slightly off?

Derailleur /hanger/ slightly bent? (Or der body itself for that matter.)

Check the alignment yourself by using the string test thing: just google
for instructions (or check Sheldon?).

You sure sound is /coming/ from the back? Might be the chain rubbing the FD
cage or a chain ring. (You're not cross-chaining, of course.)

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20 speed
record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only problem is
that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on the back.
It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't lubed
properly.

I've tried just about everything: Replace the chain, tried a different
back wheel with different block, tried different types of lube.

I have actually taken it back to the frame builders and, after
initially agreeing with me it was noisy, then they pretty much fobbed
me off by telling me they had made some adjustments and that I should
lube it more.

My opinion is that it's the frame itself thats slightly off, and it's
effecting the rear axel angle and hence chainline, but I'm really only
guessing. I mean, it could just be that I'm running a very high gear
ratio (53-11) and the titanium is amplifying the noise?

Bit lost here, but I've got a lifetime guarantee on the frame, and I've
asked them for a new one if they can't tell me why its noisy. If anyone
has got and useful advice try or other information, I'd be very
grateful.

Thanks,
Mark.

Yes, try all that Bill Sornson says, plus:

1. is the cable attaching to the rear derailleur on the correct side of
the allen bolt? With the bike upright, the cable should pass
below/inboard of the bolt, not above/outboard of the bolt. If you do the
latter, then the derailleur will move the wrong distance for every Ergo
gear click. This would mean that if the derailleur shifts the bottom 4-5
gears (largest cogs) correctly, it will be slightly off for the
remaining (smallest) cogs.

2. could be that the derailleur hanger's bent, not necessarily in a
vertical plane, but possibly in a horizontal plane. If 1 above checks
out then try slight bending of derailleur hanger in different planes.
It's enough to stick a 5mm allen key in the derailleur attachment bolt
and give a gentle tug in the desired direction. This will almost
certainly cause you to need to re-adjust the stop screw positions for
both innermost and outermost travel, plus fine re-adjustment of position
of jockey wheel under the cassette cogs via the knurled collars on the
downtube.

In my experiece, what *looks* straightest is not necessarily the
quietest. I myself use a slightly off-looking angle that is quiet,
shifts silently and crisply in all gears, yet does not wear out any
parts prematurely (Campag Record 10 derailleur/Ergo on Colnago frame).

One more thing - you mentioned real axle angle. If we dare to assume
that the frame is straight, then if the axle is all the way into both
dropouts, the rim should be centred between the chainstays/seatstays. If
you are forced to move the axle out of the bottom of one of the dropouts
to centre the rim, then you may have an incorrectly-dished wheel (i.e.
the rim not being centred between the locknuts on the axle).
Compensating for an out-of-dish wheel by moving the axle in the dropouts
will bring the cassette cogs out of plane with the derailleur cage and
jockey wheels, causing noise.

Of course there are variations on the theme where a frame builder can
have accidentally built a non-symmetrical frame and compensated for this
by building an improperly-dished wheel to get it centered between both
sets of stays, but I think we should see this as unlikely until we
address and eliminate the more common causes of the noise.

/Robert

Agree with all above, especially the derailleur angle. Just a slight
adjustment may make the noise disappear. Also try a real lube. I think all
of the thin lubes shed very quickly and it becomes hard to determine the
origin of the noise from the drive train. I've tried everything and
eventually I come back to Phi Wood's Tenacious Oil. It makes the chain and
derailleur pulleys whisper quiet. Just wipe off the chain every few rides.
I clean my roadbike chain cassette and derailleur pulleys with solvent about
every 500 miles, then relube.

"Robert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20 speed
record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only problem is
that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on the back.
It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't lubed
properly.

I've tried just about everything: Replace the chain, tried a different
back wheel with different block, tried different types of lube.

I have actually taken it back to the frame builders and, after
initially agreeing with me it was noisy, then they pretty much fobbed
me off by telling me they had made some adjustments and that I should
lube it more.

My opinion is that it's the frame itself thats slightly off, and it's
effecting the rear axel angle and hence chainline, but I'm really only
guessing. I mean, it could just be that I'm running a very high gear
ratio (53-11) and the titanium is amplifying the noise?

Bit lost here, but I've got a lifetime guarantee on the frame, and I've
asked them for a new one if they can't tell me why its noisy. If anyone
has got and useful advice try or other information, I'd be very
grateful.

Thanks,
Mark.

Yes, try all that Bill Sornson says, plus:

1. is the cable attaching to the rear derailleur on the correct side of
the allen bolt? With the bike upright, the cable should pass below/inboard
of the bolt, not above/outboard of the bolt. If you do the latter, then
the derailleur will move the wrong distance for every Ergo gear click.
This would mean that if the derailleur shifts the bottom 4-5 gears
(largest cogs) correctly, it will be slightly off for the remaining
(smallest) cogs.

2. could be that the derailleur hanger's bent, not necessarily in a
vertical plane, but possibly in a horizontal plane. If 1 above checks out
then try slight bending of derailleur hanger in different planes. It's
enough to stick a 5mm allen key in the derailleur attachment bolt and give
a gentle tug in the desired direction. This will almost certainly cause
you to need to re-adjust the stop screw positions for both innermost and
outermost travel, plus fine re-adjustment of position of jockey wheel
under the cassette cogs via the knurled collars on the downtube.

In my experiece, what *looks* straightest is not necessarily the quietest.
I myself use a slightly off-looking angle that is quiet, shifts silently
and crisply in all gears, yet does not wear out any parts prematurely
(Campag Record 10 derailleur/Ergo on Colnago frame).

One more thing - you mentioned real axle angle. If we dare to assume that
the frame is straight, then if the axle is all the way into both dropouts,
the rim should be centred between the chainstays/seatstays. If you are
forced to move the axle out of the bottom of one of the dropouts to centre
the rim, then you may have an incorrectly-dished wheel (i.e. the rim not
being centred between the locknuts on the axle). Compensating for an
out-of-dish wheel by moving the axle in the dropouts will bring the
cassette cogs out of plane with the derailleur cage and jockey wheels,
causing noise.

Of course there are variations on the theme where a frame builder can have
accidentally built a non-symmetrical frame and compensated for this by
building an improperly-dished wheel to get it centered between both sets
of stays, but I think we should see this as unlikely until we address and
eliminate the more common causes of the noise.

/Robert

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20 speed
record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only problem is
that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on the back.
It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't lubed
properly.

Any chance the chain is rubbing on the *front* derailer? Does it happen
with the chain on either chainring?

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

Everyone confesses that exertion which brings out all the powers of body
and mind is the best thing for us; but most people do all they can to
get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than
circumstances drive them to do. -Harriet Beecher Stowe, abolitionist and
novelist (1811-1896)

Thanks!

Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
UK

I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
neither helps a lot.

Does one know how to get the derailleur angle correct? It's record, so
part is carbon (although the main part is still alloy, and presumably
bendable)

Thanks,
Mark.

KnowWhen2HoldemKnowWhen2Foldem said:

Agree with all above, especially the derailleur angle. Just a slight
adjustment may make the noise disappear. Also try a real lube. I think all
of the thin lubes shed very quickly and it becomes hard to determine the
origin of the noise from the drive train. I've tried everything and
eventually I come back to Phi Wood's Tenacious Oil. It makes the chain and
derailleur pulleys whisper quiet. Just wipe off the chain every few rides.
I clean my roadbike chain cassette and derailleur pulleys with solvent about
every 500 miles, then relube.

"Robert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20 speed
record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only problem is
that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on the back.
It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't lubed
properly.

I've tried just about everything: Replace the chain, tried a different
back wheel with different block, tried different types of lube.

I have actually taken it back to the frame builders and, after
initially agreeing with me it was noisy, then they pretty much fobbed
me off by telling me they had made some adjustments and that I should
lube it more.

My opinion is that it's the frame itself thats slightly off, and it's
effecting the rear axel angle and hence chainline, but I'm really only
guessing. I mean, it could just be that I'm running a very high gear
ratio (53-11) and the titanium is amplifying the noise?

Bit lost here, but I've got a lifetime guarantee on the frame, and I've
asked them for a new one if they can't tell me why its noisy. If anyone
has got and useful advice try or other information, I'd be very
grateful.

Thanks,
Mark.

Yes, try all that Bill Sornson says, plus:

1. is the cable attaching to the rear derailleur on the correct side of
the allen bolt? With the bike upright, the cable should pass below/inboard
of the bolt, not above/outboard of the bolt. If you do the latter, then
the derailleur will move the wrong distance for every Ergo gear click.
This would mean that if the derailleur shifts the bottom 4-5 gears
(largest cogs) correctly, it will be slightly off for the remaining
(smallest) cogs.

2. could be that the derailleur hanger's bent, not necessarily in a
vertical plane, but possibly in a horizontal plane. If 1 above checks out
then try slight bending of derailleur hanger in different planes. It's
enough to stick a 5mm allen key in the derailleur attachment bolt and give
a gentle tug in the desired direction. This will almost certainly cause
you to need to re-adjust the stop screw positions for both innermost and
outermost travel, plus fine re-adjustment of position of jockey wheel
under the cassette cogs via the knurled collars on the downtube.

In my experiece, what *looks* straightest is not necessarily the quietest.
I myself use a slightly off-looking angle that is quiet, shifts silently
and crisply in all gears, yet does not wear out any parts prematurely
(Campag Record 10 derailleur/Ergo on Colnago frame).

One more thing - you mentioned real axle angle. If we dare to assume that
the frame is straight, then if the axle is all the way into both dropouts,
the rim should be centred between the chainstays/seatstays. If you are
forced to move the axle out of the bottom of one of the dropouts to centre
the rim, then you may have an incorrectly-dished wheel (i.e. the rim not
being centred between the locknuts on the axle). Compensating for an
out-of-dish wheel by moving the axle in the dropouts will bring the
cassette cogs out of plane with the derailleur cage and jockey wheels,
causing noise.

Of course there are variations on the theme where a frame builder can have
accidentally built a non-symmetrical frame and compensated for this by
building an improperly-dished wheel to get it centered between both sets
of stays, but I think we should see this as unlikely until we address and
eliminate the more common causes of the noise.

/Robert

Hi Dave,

No it's certainly not that... I know that sound well 🙂

Mark.

dvt said:

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20 speed
record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only problem is
that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on the back.
It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't lubed
properly.

Any chance the chain is rubbing on the *front* derailer? Does it happen
with the chain on either chainring?

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

Everyone confesses that exertion which brings out all the powers of body
and mind is the best thing for us; but most people do all they can to
get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than
circumstances drive them to do. -Harriet Beecher Stowe, abolitionist and
novelist (1811-1896)

Thanks for the reply

Out of interest if the rear derailleur is misaligned, would it not be
noisy in all gears, not just the top few?

Mark.

Bill Sornson said:

Quoted message said:

Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help me. I've got a titanium frame with 20
speed record. It looks lovely and performs really well. The only
problem is that it's always been a bit noisy in the top 3-4 gears on
the back. It's the sort of noise you might expect if the chain wasn't
lubed properly.

I've tried just about everything: Replace the chain, tried a different
back wheel with different block, tried different types of lube.

I have actually taken it back to the frame builders and, after
initially agreeing with me it was noisy, then they pretty much fobbed
me off by telling me they had made some adjustments and that I should
lube it more.

My opinion is that it's the frame itself thats slightly off, and it's
effecting the rear axel angle and hence chainline, but I'm really only
guessing. I mean, it could just be that I'm running a very high gear
ratio (53-11) and the titanium is amplifying the noise?

Bit lost here, but I've got a lifetime guarantee on the frame, and
I've asked them for a new one if they can't tell me why its noisy. If
anyone has got and useful advice try or other information, I'd be very
grateful.

Cable tension adjustment and/or limit screws slightly off?

Derailleur /hanger/ slightly bent? (Or der body itself for that matter.)

Check the alignment yourself by using the string test thing: just google
for instructions (or check Sheldon?).

You sure sound is /coming/ from the back? Might be the chain rubbing the FD
cage or a chain ring. (You're not cross-chaining, of course.)

Quoted message said:

Thanks!

Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
UK

I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
neither helps a lot.

If you use SRAM chains, the best lubricant is what they come with
already out of the package. Google "Gleitmo" in this group.

Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is equivalent, for bicycle purposes, to any
75-90 weight gear oil that you buy in an automotive store. Only, for
about a third of the price, you must get something like 5-10x the
product. That works well on chains, especially for noise reduction, but
most people would say its too thick, too hard to get off the excess,
and so attracts too much dirt. An excellent alternative is chainsaw
oil, which is oil mixed with solvent, the latter rapidly evaporating
out. Or just use regular car motor oil of any weight.

Teflon-based oil is a cruel joke, and while wax has its proponents,
unless you are mixing it with oil as many people do, so that it is in
effect a carrier for the oil, you'll find it doesn't lubricate well,
doesn't last long, doesn't work well in the wet, and so will give you
the squeaks in short order. This has been discussed endlessly in this
group already, and you should find everything possible there is to say
about it in your search for Gleitmo above.

But you should find out what's wrong with your setup and why you are
getting the noise in the first place. I don't suppose you have a
tendency to throw the chain off the last sprockets? That would be an
indication too of misalignment. Is it possible that the derailleur is
not in the right position (cable travel)? Try pushing it in or out a
little with your finger/hand, or perhaps manipulating the cable or the
adjustment screw, while rotating the cranks with the bike in a stand,
and see if you can find a sweet spot different from the click stop.
t

Quoted message said:

Thanks!

Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
UK

I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
neither helps a lot.

Does one know how to get the derailleur angle correct? It's record, so
part is carbon (although the main part is still alloy, and presumably
bendable)

Thanks,
Mark.

Following my previous advice given in this thread:

If you find yourself wanting to play with derailleur angle, you put a
5mm allen key in the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger.
Put the shaft end in, so you get leverage. The purpose is to bend the
*hanger* by exerting a force on the attachment bolt. Gentle but firm so
you don't destroy the hanger.

It's definitely *not* about bending the alloy part of the derailleur, as
you appear to think. If this isn't obvious, then stop now and go to a
bike shop with a good mech.

You also mention that you're using wax and teflon-based oil as
lubricants. This will give you a noisier setup straight away, compared
with using e.g. regular dino oil.

Question is now, is the noise due to the type of lubricant you are using
or because of some misalignment. Experiment and report back to us.

/Robert

Robert wrote:
---snip---

Quoted message said:

If you find yourself wanting to play with derailleur angle, you put a
5mm allen key in the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger.
Put the shaft end in, so you get leverage. The purpose is to bend the
*hanger* by exerting a force on the attachment bolt. Gentle but firm so
you don't destroy the hanger.

It's definitely *not* about bending the alloy part of the derailleur, as
you appear to think. If this isn't obvious, then stop now and go to a
bike shop with a good mech.

To be even more clear, the derailleur should be installed on the bike in
its usual position before doing the bending.

/Robert

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Robert said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks!

Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
UK

I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
neither helps a lot.

Does one know how to get the derailleur angle correct? It's record, so
part is carbon (although the main part is still alloy, and presumably
bendable)

Thanks,
Mark.

Following my previous advice given in this thread:

If you find yourself wanting to play with derailleur angle, you put a
5mm allen key in the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger.
Put the shaft end in, so you get leverage. The purpose is to bend the
*hanger* by exerting a force on the attachment bolt. Gentle but firm so
you don't destroy the hanger.

It's definitely *not* about bending the alloy part of the derailleur, as
you appear to think. If this isn't obvious, then stop now and go to a
bike shop with a good mech.

You also mention that you're using wax and teflon-based oil as
lubricants. This will give you a noisier setup straight away, compared
with using e.g. regular dino oil.

Question is now, is the noise due to the type of lubricant you are using
or because of some misalignment. Experiment and report back to us.

/Robert

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Robert said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks!

Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
UK

I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
neither helps a lot.

Does one know how to get the derailleur angle correct? It's record, so
part is carbon (although the main part is still alloy, and presumably
bendable)

Thanks,
Mark.

Following my previous advice given in this thread:

If you find yourself wanting to play with derailleur angle, you put a
5mm allen key in the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger.
Put the shaft end in, so you get leverage. The purpose is to bend the
*hanger* by exerting a force on the attachment bolt. Gentle but firm so
you don't destroy the hanger.

It's definitely *not* about bending the alloy part of the derailleur, as
you appear to think. If this isn't obvious, then stop now and go to a
bike shop with a good mech.

You also mention that you're using wax and teflon-based oil as
lubricants. This will give you a noisier setup straight away, compared
with using e.g. regular dino oil.

Question is now, is the noise due to the type of lubricant you are using
or because of some misalignment. Experiment and report back to us.

/Robert

Actually I tell a lie - it is a titanium frame with carbon wishbone to
be precise. I suppose the hanger is probably not titanium though (?),
so could be bent slightly if needed (?)

Regards,
Mark.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Why is that difficult?

Lou

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Robert said:

[email hidden] wrote:
> Thanks!
>
> Unfortunately Phil Wood's oil doesn't seem to be available here in the
> UK
>
> I have tried wax and teflon-based oil (both from Finish line), and
> neither helps a lot.
>
>
> Does one know how to get the derailleur angle correct? It's record, so
> part is carbon (although the main part is still alloy, and presumably
> bendable)
>
>
> Thanks,
> Mark.

Following my previous advice given in this thread:

If you find yourself wanting to play with derailleur angle, you put a
5mm allen key in the bolt that attaches the derailleur to the hanger.
Put the shaft end in, so you get leverage. The purpose is to bend the
*hanger* by exerting a force on the attachment bolt. Gentle but firm so
you don't destroy the hanger.

It's definitely *not* about bending the alloy part of the derailleur, as
you appear to think. If this isn't obvious, then stop now and go to a
bike shop with a good mech.

You also mention that you're using wax and teflon-based oil as
lubricants. This will give you a noisier setup straight away, compared
with using e.g. regular dino oil.

Question is now, is the noise due to the type of lubricant you are using
or because of some misalignment. Experiment and report back to us.

/Robert

Actually I tell a lie - it is a titanium frame with carbon wishbone to
be precise. I suppose the hanger is probably not titanium though (?),
so could be bent slightly if needed (?)

Regards,
Mark.

Sorry to keep asking morequestions like this, but another thing: When
the chain is on the small front/small rear it rubs slightly against the
big front... I know this is not a common combination, but it still
doesn't seem quite correct that it should do this. It's record 20
speed...

Many thanks for your advice,
Mark.

Lou Holtman said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Why is that difficult?

Lou

Oh, it's probably not - Whilst I'm pretty good at bike mechanics by
now, I've never had to adjust the derailleur in this way, so I'm
guessing at the problems that i might face - which is hopefully better
than trashing my frame 🙂

Quoted message said:

Lou Holtman said:

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur scre ws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Mark.

Why is that difficult?

Lou

Oh, it's probably not -

Have you ever seen those commercials for titanium glasses frames? They
can practically be bent in cricles without taking a set. Now, the alloy
for a bicycle frame may be a little different, and its not made like a
glasses frame, but in general titanium does take quite a bit of bending
before taking a set.
-

Quoted message said:

When
the chain is on the small front/small rear it rubs slightly against the
big front... I know this is not a common combination, but it still
doesn't seem quite correct that it should do this. It's record 20
speed...

More than likely this just means you have short chainstays. Short
chainstays are a fashion item and to keep weight to the absurd minimum
and you probably wanted them that way and would have objected to proper
length ones. Reasonable length: minimum 43cm, more like 44-45. Maybe
you have 40.

Fashion is a cruel master.
l

41 said:

Quoted message said:

When
the chain is on the small front/small rear it rubs slightly against the
big front... I know this is not a common combination, but it still
doesn't seem quite correct that it should do this. It's record 20
speed...

More than likely this just means you have short chainstays. Short
chainstays are a fashion item and to keep weight to the absurd minimum
and you probably wanted them that way and would have objected to proper
length ones. Reasonable length: minimum 43cm, more like 44-45. Maybe
you have 40.

Fashion is a cruel master.
l

I agree, this is normal and acceptable for contemporary fashion frames.
My chainstays are 40,2 cm, measured centre BB to centre back axle. I get
same rub as you describe on 39-15 and 39-14 (my cassette is 14-23 10sp).
My drivetrain is Record from 2004.

/Robert

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Aaah so is the hanger the part of the frame (dropout) that the
derailleur screws into? If so, I think I might have difficulty bending
this, as it's a titanium frame...

Don't mean to offend, but I suggest at this stage, that you may be a bit
apprehensive about working on your bike for the risk of damaging
something. If that's the case, it would be a good idea to go to a
mechanic with good solid knowledge of how to work on higher-end road
bikes, and ask if you can sit in while he/she does the work (which may
well involve bending the hanger but let's not take for granted that this
is the problem yet).

It might cost you a few tens of dollars for the privilege of watching,
but would be well worth it, so you can get an idea of how gently/roughly
certain parts need/can be handled.

Could be a good sign that you baulk at bending parts of your expensive
frame. Knowing just what a given material will tolerate requires some
advice and a fair bit of experience (plus the odd mistake ;-) This is
something that I overlooked when I encouraged you to start bending your
derailleur hanger as part of a series of tests.

OTOH your hesitancy is sure as hell better than that of the schmo who
starts bending everything wildly, causing metal fatigue and big dollar
repair bills as a result.

Good luck and tell us how it all turns out.

/Robert
Gothenburg Sweden