Commuting and Road Safety · Public discussion

Tips for Cummuting.

Started by Sedje · · Last activity · 3 posts · 2,060 views

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Commuting and Road Safety
Published
21 June 2006
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22 June 2006
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Sedje
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  1. I wanted to start a thread for general tips for commuting. This is for those people who have thought about commuting but have never taken that final step. I'll start by giving my two bits and anyone else can add on with their words of wisdom.

    As a die hard commuter and one who lives in some pretty variable weather I have a few suggestions to make. First I want to go over choices for bikes, then I'll touch on gear you will need most definitely and finally I'll go over some tips for riding.

    First off, If you are going to commute you need to seriously decide what type of bike you will ride. This will largely depend on what kind of area you are going to be riding in and the distance you will be traveling.

    For instance if you are going to be on flat roads that have light traffic then you will want to ride on a road bike. If the area is one with where you will be riding on the sidewalk then go with a mountain bike. If you will be riding in a combined area then go with a nice flat bar bike (I'll explain what a flatbar bike is in a minute.) You'll want to take into consideration the distance of your ride as well. Under 3.5 miles (5 km) then you'll have a pretty lose choice with regards to bikes. If you are going to be riding 15 miles (20 km) or more then you will need a road bike.

    With regards to with the road bikes that I've mentioned I'm referring to bikes with a relaxed geometry one that will keep you in an upright position so you can keep your eyes on the road. Many flat bar bikes out there today are great for this, they are a good median between your rugged mountain bike and your sturdy touring speced bike. Flat bar bikes usually have a mountain bike geometry mixed with road bike parts. Most are made of aluminum which many commuters will shy away from. We'll touch on the difference between aluminum and steel in a minute as well. Back to flat bar bikes, I personally ride a flat bar bike made by Marin and I love it.

    My ride is 7 miles both ways but I usually will put on extra 10 miles just riding around for exercise or errands. I love the fact that I am in relaxed position but able to sprint out of tight spots when necessary.

    People who ride mountain bikes from what I've gathered are those that are riding in very rugged terrain. They are jumping on and off the sidewalk, or running over potholes and other obstacles that will warp a road bike rim. They are often going to be hitting a lot of hills where jumping out of the saddle is more comfortable to add that extra oomph to climbing. Mountain bikes are also tending to be lighter and lighter as well. Many stock bikes weigh in under 30lbs, a far cry from the 80's and 90's and where they seldom broke the 30lb mark. So this is a choice for alot of people who want to be flexible.

    Road bikes are the choice of many a die hard commuter. They are often able to set up a great commuter bike weighing less than 21lbs that are able to withstand the rigors of commuting. The bikes are faster than mountain bikes and they less versatile than mountain bikes but they are more efficient overall.

    Road bikes break down into three category's with regards to commuting, touring, flatbar and single speed.

    Many commuters are turning to the single speed bikes for the simplicity. You will often find that 90% of your ride will be in one gear the whole way. The single speed in my opinion is great for those people who want to avoid dealing with dérailleurs which can become a hassle if you don't know how to adjust them yourself. This simplicity is building a huge following among many commuters.

    The flat bar is a road bike with a relaxed geometry and upright position. They are great for urban commuters, those people riding on busy city streets because they allow you to have a better sense of your surroundings while also allowing you to punch out the speed when needed. They are also a great median for those unable to decide between a mountain bike and road bike as well. I'm very happy with my Marin flatbar.

    Road bikes that most commuters refer to are either cyclocross or touring bikes. These bikes are strong, often made of steel with a great mix of parts that are ideal for those needing a rugged everyday bike able to handle the rigors of a daily commute. They are a great bike for those wanting something that you can punch down the road and not worry about snapping on the first pot hole. They also have braze-ons for racks which are a plus if you plan on using panniers.

    Back to weight, it plays a big part in commuting. It will effect your speed and maneuverability as well as how efficient you are overall. There are many parts that you can reduce weight with and still have a good solid commuter bike. I for one would suggest investing in light seat post, pedals and stem mostly because these parts, even with a reduced weight, are still able to withstand the rigors of your average commute while saving you some lbs/grams in the process.

    You will also want to keep in mind what kind of gear you will use for carrying. The choices are backpack, racks, or messenger bags. I'll go over the pros and cons of each. Back pack are great for distributing weight but are not designed for bikes, they tend to slide around on your back and this can effect your control while pedaling. Messenger bags would seem to be a bad choice for alot of bikers but they are not. Due to the sling of a messenger bike it works as a pendulum almost making sure to stay at a centered position which will help you maintain control. Racks and panniers are suggested for any long distance commuters due to the stress that either messenger bags and backpacks can put on your shoulders. You would not believe how much upper body strength you use in biking. Panniers allow you to put the weight on the bike and not your body and also allow for you to carry more as well.

    Other gear thats a must is a safety vest, helmet, head light and tail light. The helmet needs to be certified, in US this would be DOT certified elsewhere I would not hazard a guess. Lights should be name brand, and Bright. Tail lights should have multiple modes to work in different types of weather, i.e. flashing, strobe and continuous beam.

    Last point I would like to touch on is brakes you will see that bikes these days come with multiple choices, either traditional side pull, cantilever or disc brakes. Most commuters will choose between cantilever or disc brakes.
    Both cantilever and disc breaks offer great stopping power, your choice will depend on what kind of weather you will be riding in. The disc breaks aren't affected by weather, which ensures you wont sputter at that red light when its wet out.

    I will end this there at that point and hopefully someone adds something to this post.

    I also have not gotten around to editing this so point out any errors you might see if you feel it necessary.

  2. Great idea for a thread. There's so much about bike commuting that's not apparent until you actually get some experience under your belt.. here's a few tips that I've picked up over four years of commuting.

    The "aluminium is harsh"/"steel is the way to go" thing isn't really clear cut.. the frame design, tyre choice, etc. matter more than the intrinsic properties of the material the frame is designed from.

    Also if you're commuting in wet weather, you might need to spend extra time making sure that a steel frame isn't left around in a state where it's prone to rust.

    A few extra things worth adding.

    * Tyres. Slicks are a lot faster than knobby tyres for commuting (which is typically all on-road), and getting a nice wide slick is a lot more comfortable and sure-footed on unpaved surfaces, should your commute route have any of that on it. Consider a semi-slick if you need to go on dirt or unpaved gravel trails for any significant distance.

    * Efficiency vs. comfort/reliability. Commuting isn't the Tour de France, it's a more utilitarian exercise, and that should be reflected in the bike setup. Don't go too crazy on ultra-light components, give some thought in regards to durability (esp. wheels). Make sure the bike is as comfy as possible (correct fit and setup, saddle selection, wide-ish tyres, etc.) Also keep it reliable with a sensibly strong wheelset, Mr Tuffy tyre liners to reduce the chance of flats, etc.

    About most importantly, about the bike; make sure it's one you like riding! If it's something that you find a chore to ride, eventually you'll find yourself making excuses not to ride it. And that's no fun 😉

    * Roadside repair. Make sure you keep at least a patch kit (glueless ones are a lot more convenient), a spare tube, a multi-tool, a pump, and maybe also a chain connecting-link so that any minor roadside disaster (flat tyre, broken chain, etc.) won't make you late. Also, practice how to use the tools so should anything happen, you know what to do.

    * Wet weather and winter commuting. Fenders are your friend! As are arm/leg warmers, thermal vests, shoe covering booties, ear covers, etc. If your bike can take disc brakes, consider putting one at least on the front wheel for more consistent braking in poor weather. (Also note that for drop-bar type levers, you need a special disc brake caliper, or a doodad to change the cable leverage.)

    * Lighting. The difference between "being seen" (flashing LED lights front and rear), and "being able to see" (halogen/Luxeon/HID front headlights). If commuting at dawn, dusk or night, it's preferable to have both.. especially if any of your route is on an unlit road or path.

    * Re backpacks, in summer they can make for a nasty, sweaty mess on your back; a rack and bag is a more comfortable way about carrying things. A lighter bike is a lot more fun to ride: perhaps drive in one day (or make a quick dash of an evening/night) to bring in a week's worth of clothes and such, so that your carrying load on the bike is reduced. Or designate one day to be a "heavy hauler" day on the bike, making things lighter on your other days.

    * Security. Will you be able to park your bike at your destination in a secure area? If not, you'll need a secure lock, and preferably make your bike look as uninteresting as possible to thieves.

    * Recovery at your destination. Are locker and/or shower facilities available? If not, look about for any gyms or sporting clubs around your place of work where you might be able to rent them.

    * Choosing your commute route. When looking at the road map, think like a cyclist. That means avoiding highly-trafficked, high-speed roads, looking for smaller side-roads that run parallel to main streets, roads which have marked cycle lanes (or at the least, wide lanes), or any off-road cycle paths that you can take for your journey, etc. Also factor in hills and traditionally dangerous intersections: plan a route that avoids these. Perhaps drive the route to double check the road conditions, and see if there are any nicer alternate routes which can make the ride safer and more enjoyable.

  3. I switched from 10 speeds to 3 speeds 7 years ago, partly out of desire for
    something different, partly out of nostalgia and "retro-sense". IMHO the traditional and somewhat out of fashion 3 speed/internal hub bike has a lot to
    recommend it, one of which is low initial cost-I have bought all 4 of mine used, their prices ranged from $30 to $65US. Of course the neccessay accessories such as Brooks leather saddles, tool bags, lights, racks, pump add to the cost, but I don't have more than $300US invested in any of them. And having more than on bike makes problems such as flats a little easier to deal with. A flat on
    No. 1-take No. 2. Shifting is easier in traffic, and I find 3 gears is all I really need
    even in the somehwat hilly area I live in. I use the Sram 24 tooth cog-both Sturmey Archer and Shimano compatible, this make 3rd Gear suitable for level
    riding and the other 2 gears are for hill climbing. Most 3 speed do come with steel rims, I was fortunate to get 2 of my 3 speeds with aluminum rims, I build
    my own wheels, so upgrading is not a challenge, I did leave my 1969 Robin Hood
    all original.

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