Chain skipping

Quoted message said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Sounds like a misadjusted derailleur. Shift to the middle cog, flip
bike over and push the jockey wheel against the cassette. Does it line
up? No? Then play with the cable tensioner till it does.

Craig yahoo? said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

New chain skipping is caused by worn sprockets. Are you sure all the
sprockets are new and no old ones?

Jobst Brandt

Craig said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on the
previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the cassette
every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't excessively
worn.

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible causes
of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain installed
incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Art Harris

Art Harris said:

Quoted message said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Quoted message said:

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
excessively worn.

Quoted message said:

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
and bind in use (skip).

Jobst Brandt

Quoted message said:

Art Harris said:

Quoted message said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Quoted message said:

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
excessively worn.

Quoted message said:

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
and bind in use (skip).

Jobst Brandt

Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

- the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
- it is a new cassette and not the old one

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Craig

Art Harris said:

Craig said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on the
previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the cassette
every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't excessively
worn.

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible causes
of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain installed
incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Art Harris

Thanks to everyone who responded.

The previous cassette was 2+ years old and had many miles on it. The
issue was cable stretch plus the derailleur was bent.

Craig

Craig yahoo? said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and
> some skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could
> be and whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at
> home?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain
wasn't excessively worn.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be
pressing in a link pin without making sure that the link
articulates freely afterward. The other is to press in a link pin
and not oil that joint expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid
of lubricant and can gall and bind in use (skip).

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

Quoted message said:

- the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
- it is a new cassette and not the old one

Is it new or is it an old one? I don't understand. What is new and
what is used?

Quoted message said:

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much.
I was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they
are tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Stainless steel cables are not as strong as conventional cadmium
plated control and brake cables, but they cost more to make up for
that weakness. Just the same, neither kind of cables stretch (nor do
drive chains). Watch out for repair shops that present such BS.

Let's clarify whether these are new or used sprockets first.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Jobst Brandt

its cable stretch, tighten the adjuster
My stumpy s-works SRAM did the same thing on my first ride in the hills.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Craig

Replace the cogs. They're worn. And yes, with the proper tools and a
little instruction you can do this at home. Ask your dealer for the
proper replacement cogs, tools and lessons on how to use them. If he's
worth his (or her) grease, he/she will show you

- -
Comments and opinions compliments of,
"Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

My web Site:
http "colon-slash-slash" geocities "dot" com "slash" czcorner

To E-mail me:
ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net

Quoted message said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Like others said, it sounds like a cable tension issue -- if by "skip" you
mean jumping to adjacent cogs or just sloppy shifting. Did they replace
your cables and maybe housings, too?

If the chain is truly /skipping/, then I'd say it's your chainring(s).

OR it's the wrong type of chain. (9 speed on 10 speed perhaps?)

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Art Harris said:

> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some
> skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and
> whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Quoted message said:

Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain wasn't
excessively worn.

Quoted message said:

If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
and bind in use (skip).

Jobst Brandt

Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

- the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
- it is a new cassette and not the old one

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Cables themselves do not stretch.

What happens is that housing changes, ferrules move up on
housing, ferrules seat further into stops. All manner of
plastic deformation _except_in_the_stranded_cable.

Think about it. If a cable stretches it gets thinner, you
take up the slack, the cable is thinner so it stretches
more easily, it gets thinner, stretches more, until it is
a one atom thick filament, and snaps. No, all the plastic
deformation is compressive in the supporting material, not
stretching of the cable.

If the bicycle shop is acting exactly as you say, then cut
your losses and find one that does better work. The first
clue is that they allowed their work on the street without
testing it.

A competent shop gets the cable system seated before
calling the job done.

--
Michael Press

Quoted message said:

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much. I
was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they are
tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Jobst and others have it right about cables not stretching.

But even if they DID stretch, it's STILL a non-issue since the
relative movement of the rear derailleur with each shift would still
be the same (unless they're trying to tell you that the cable is so
"stretchy" that it's lengthening as you shift to the smaller cogs, in
which case you should probably avoid the place like the plague).

The bent derailleur you mentioned in a later post sounds like the
likely culprit.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame

mycinelli said:

I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the rear
cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was significant chain
skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and some skipping on the 15
and 19. Any thoughts on what this could be and whether I need to take
it back to the shop or I can fix at home?

Are you sure they replaced the cassette?

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The lottery is a tax on those who fail to understand
_`\(,_ | mathematics.
(_)/ (_) |

Quoted message said:

Craig yahoo? said:

Quoted message said:

>> I just got my bike back from an overhaul where they replaced the
>> rear cassette and the chain. On my first ride, there was
>> significant chain skipping on my 17 cog (12 - 26 cassette) and
>> some skipping on the 15 and 19. Any thoughts on what this could
>> be and whether I need to take it back to the shop or I can fix at
>> home?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> Definitely take it back! Just curious, how many miles you had on
> the previous chain and cassette? It's not necessary to replace the
> cassette every time you replace the chain, assuming the chain
> wasn't excessively worn.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> If they really did replace the chain and cassette, some possible
> causes of skipping are: Wrong type of chain installed, chain
> installed incorrectly, derailleur adjusted incorrectly, etc.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be
pressing in a link pin without making sure that the link
articulates freely afterward. The other is to press in a link pin
and not oil that joint expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid
of lubricant and can gall and bind in use (skip).

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the replies. To answer folks' questions:

Quoted message said:

- the cassette is 2+ years old and has a lot of miles on it
- it is a new cassette and not the old one

Is it new or is it an old one? I don't understand. What is new and
what is used?

Quoted message said:

I have since contacted the bike shop and they said that the issue is
the cables have stretched. I thought they didn't and said as much.
I was told they do, and that they use stainless steel cables as they
are tougher (not sure if that's relevant to the discussion).

Stainless steel cables are not as strong as conventional cadmium
plated control and brake cables, but they cost more to make up for
that weakness. Just the same, neither kind of cables stretch (nor do
drive chains). Watch out for repair shops that present such BS.

Let's clarify whether these are new or used sprockets first.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Jobst Brandt

The old cassette was 2+ years old and was replaced with a new cassette.
I ended up taking it to a different bike shop where the guy also told
me that cables stretched, but he also found that the derailleur was
bent. He fixed it, took it out for a spin, had me ride it to make sure
I was happy and ended up not charging me for it.

The fact that bike shop #2 also believed strongly that cables stretch,
despite their friendly attitude, leaves me without a bike shop I feel I
can trust. I'm wondering if that should be my litmus test for finding
a new LBS - call all the ones in the surrounding area and ask whether
cables stretch...

Thanks again for all the responses!

Craig

Quoted message said:

Ah, you mention chain installed incorrectly. That would be pressing
in a link pin without making sure that the link articulates freely
afterward. The other is to press in a link pin and not oil that joint
expressly. Newly pushed in pins are devoid of lubricant and can gall
and bind in use (skip).

I would think that if this were the case, it'd skip universally, not
just on one or two cogs.

I'm skeptical that the shop remembered to replace a worn cassette. At
any rate, he has a reason to return the bike and get it back working
properly.

-paul

Quoted message said:

The fact that bike shop #2 also believed strongly that cables stretch,
despite their friendly attitude, leaves me without a bike shop I feel I
can trust. I'm wondering if that should be my litmus test for finding
a new LBS - call all the ones in the surrounding area and ask whether
cables stretch...

What many percieve as cable stretch is actually cable housing
compression, or cable ends bedding in. If the shifter cable housing
wasn't changed chances are this wasn't your problem.

When installing new cables and housings it's a good idea to seat the
housing ends by 1) squeezing the brakes REALLY HARD, or 2) shifting
the derailleurs to the maximum cable tension position then pulling the
exposed cable runs away from the downtube, sort of like drawing a bow.

It's just amazing how the above exercise minimizes cable stretch. ;-)

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3