Wheelsets below $250

What kind of riding do you particularly do? If you're doing a lot of ascending, then I'd probably go with the ultegra/open pros because they are pretty light. If you do a lot of riding in the flats, perhaps consider something that's more aero.

secureboot said:

I got a Giant TCR Limited Edition which came with Xero XR-3 wheels.

I haven't ridden any nice wheels (ever), but I think these aren't particularly great.

I used to train on Dura-Ace/Open-Pros, which seemed just fine, but the hubs went bad after 7+ years, and now they need to be replaced.

While you are pondering a new wheelset, why don't you go to your LBS and get some new ball bearings? The ball bearings (you'll need 18 per hub -- tell them what hubs you're re-building, and they'll sell you the correct sizes) should cost you about $2.00US per wheel, probably less, maybe more.

A couple of cone wrenches (if you need to buy them, figure on another $6+ each) plus some LIGHT grease and you'll be good to go ... OR, have the shop rebuild the hubs (BUT, ask how much before letting them work on them!) -- it can't be that expensive.

Open pro w/Ultegra hubs at Performance $225.

Alex 300s from Sunrise Cyclery $170.

alfeng said:

OR, have the shop rebuild the hubs (BUT, ask how much before letting them work on them!) -- it can't be that expensive.

They've been rebuilt, and are still making noise. I think they just got worn out (my understanding is the grooves or riding on bad bearings for too long kills the hubs), but the bearings were replaced as well.

capwater said:

Open pro w/Ultegra hubs at Performance $225.

Alex 300s from Sunrise Cyclery $170.

Do you have any experience with these? What do you think of them? Why are they better/worse than, say, the Easton Vistas or Cane Creeeks? I saw those before, but couldn't find any feedback about them.

secureboot said:

Do you have any experience with these? What do you think of them? Why are they better/worse than, say, the Easton Vistas or Cane Creeeks? I saw those before, but couldn't find any feedback about them.

I personally don't have Open Pros but know several folks that do and they are sort of the durability standard by which other wheels are measured. I have a set of Alex 300s on one of my bikes and have been very pleased with them. They are a knockoff of the Bontrager Select with the paired spoke design. I've got "bling" wheels but reserve them for racing.

capwater said:

I personally don't have Open Pros but know several folks that do and they are sort of the durability standard by which other wheels are measured. I have a set of Alex 300s on one of my bikes and have been very pleased with them. They are a knockoff of the Bontrager Select with the paired spoke design. I've got "bling" wheels but reserve them for racing.

I was fairly pleased with mine as well, in terms of durability - 7 years of training and racing is fairly good (at least, for me) for a set of wheels.

I'm just wondering if other alternatives will hold up as well - if so, it seems like their features (things like bladed spokes, cartridge hubs, aero wheels, etc) would make it nicer to have one of them.

secureboot said:

They've been rebuilt, and are still making noise. I think they just got worn out (my understanding is the grooves or riding on bad bearings for too long kills the hubs), but the bearings were replaced as well.

The CONES & RACES can be replaced, too ... the RACES can simply be tapped out.

You could cannibalize ALL the parts from another SHIMANO ROAD hubset ... the difference between DA/Ultegra and the rest may be real, but it isn't so great that you won't mind using them ... a BIG difference is that the less expensive hubs aren't adjusted with the same care at the factory, so sometimes they have a slight grinding feel to them.

BTW. Is it possible you've simply over-tightened the cones?

ALSO, the freehub body may be the culprit ... if the hubs spin smoothly.

Replacing the freehub body requires a 10mm ALLEN wrench ... AND, a lot of leverage ... but, not too much time.

Again, this can be cannibalized from almost ANY other Shimano rear hub (but, you'll have to partially lace the hub to remove the freehub -- you'll know what I mean when you try to do it!).

I've resorted to using a CHEATER BAR with the 10mm Allen wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the freehub body.

The 6500 series of Ultegra hubs is probably as good as (or, better than) the prior generation of DA hubs (which may predate your hubs -- your timeframe puts the hubs on the cusp of the changeover) that have the slightly enlarged drive end of the hub ... if you do the work, it will be a fairly inexpensive way to get the wheel back into service ... OR, use this opportunity to learn how to unlace AND re-lace & true a wheel!

I guess I'm mostly curious as to whether or not some of the advantages of the Mavic/Cane Creek/Easton wheels are worth it - are less less durable than an open pro/ultegra wheel?

Is any of those wheelsets more durable/stiffer than the others?

I ended up getting the Cane Creek Strados - they've been nice so far. Not terribly light, or terribly aero, but a little of both at a nice price.

In retrospect, the Easton Circuits, though a bit out of my price range, would have been nice, I'll feel better training on these than I would on the circuits. I'm probably better off not getting a "halfway there" race wheel, and just save up for the real deal (maybe the Aros 33s, now that I like Cane Creek).

I have a set of Mavic Cosmos that I've put about 2K miles on now and they are durable and stay true. I'm 5'9" at 190 with strong legs, no problem. I believe they are 299 so a little out of your budget, but a good choice.