UK and Europe · Public discussion

Back wheel snapped axel problem

Started by news.plus.net · · Last activity · 6 posts · 788 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
UK and Europe
Published
31 May 2006
Last activity
1 June 2006
Original author
news.plus.net
Posts
6
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
788
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–6 of 6
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Hi,

    I've got an old Peugeot racer. Nothing too posh, but I use it for commuting
    and I really like it.

    However, a couple of weeks ago I was out on a ride up in the hills above
    Congleton in really heavy rain, and I heard a tappety-tappety rapid knocking
    noise coming from the freewheel.

    However, it wasn't until today that I got around to taking the back wheel
    off. The axel had snapped, and both sides came clean away, dropping bearings
    all over the place. The pressure of the wheel being clamped in place had
    meant it wasn't a problem until I undid things.

    I've had this happen before with other wheels on other bikes. I'm not sure
    if it means:

    1. I use cheapo wheels (though the axel that snapped today was from an old
    Campag hub)
    2. I carry too much in my panniers, and my wheels can't cope
    3. There's a problem with the way the back wheel is aligned, making it more
    likely I'll get these broken axels.

    And finally - do people think I can rescue my back wheel by just putting in
    a new axel? It's a nice wheel, the rim is pretty good, and the caps the
    bearings sit in are still smooth and clean.

    Thanks

    Jim

  2. in message <[email hidden]>,
    "news.plus.net" <franticspam ....at...... fastmail ......dot......fm>

    ('') said:

    I've got an old Peugeot racer. Nothing too posh, but I use it for
    commuting and I really like it.

    However, a couple of weeks ago I was out on a ride up in the hills
    above Congleton in really heavy rain, and I heard a tappety-tappety
    rapid knocking noise coming from the freewheel.

    However, it wasn't until today that I got around to taking the back
    wheel off. The axel had snapped, and both sides came clean away,
    dropping bearings all over the place. The pressure of the wheel being
    clamped in place had meant it wasn't a problem until I undid things.

    I've had this happen before with other wheels on other bikes. I'm not
    sure if it means:

    1. I use cheapo wheels (though the axel that snapped today was from an
    old Campag hub)
    2. I carry too much in my panniers, and my wheels can't cope
    3. There's a problem with the way the back wheel is aligned, making it
    more likely I'll get these broken axels.

    This is almost certainly a wheel with a free-wheel rather than a
    cassette. The axles are notoriously weak, which is part of why cassette
    systems have become universal.

    Campag is as good as you can get. The problem is the design.
    Unfortunately, if my diagnosis is correct, a modern cassette hub will be
    wider than your existing hub, and consequently you'll have to 'cold
    set' (bend) your frame in order to fit one. Talk to your bike shop.

    Quoted message said:

    And finally - do people think I can rescue my back wheel by just
    putting in a new axel? It's a nice wheel, the rim is pretty good, and
    the caps the bearings sit in are still smooth and clean.

    Yes. In the short or even the medium term that will work. Eventually it
    will break again, but eventually might be a long time.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    <p>Schroedinger's cat is <blink><strong>NOT</strong></blink> dead.</p>

  3. Simon Brooke said:

    Campag is as good as you can get. The problem is the design.
    Unfortunately, if my diagnosis is correct, a modern cassette hub will be
    wider than your existing hub, and consequently you'll have to 'cold
    set' (bend) your frame in order to fit one. Talk to your bike shop.

    Can probably spring it. The worst case will be an old 5 speed with
    120mm spacing, so springing to 130mm will make it a bit of a bugger to
    change wheels byt perfectly doable for those with strong arms[1].
    Second best is 126mm spacing which is trivial to fit a 130mm hub in for
    those of moderate strength.

    Cold setting is perfectly possible with a judicious use fo a 2x4 (see
    sheldons pages) or via other means.

    ...d

    [1] Like wot mine aren't having just got back from my first visit to
    the climbing wall in 3 months or more..

  4. David Martin said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    Campag is as good as you can get. The problem is the design.
    Unfortunately, if my diagnosis is correct, a modern cassette hub
    will be wider than your existing hub, and consequently you'll have
    to 'cold set' (bend) your frame in order to fit one. Talk to your
    bike shop.

    Quoted message said:

    Can probably spring it. The worst case will be an old 5 speed with
    120mm spacing, so springing to 130mm will make it a bit of a bugger to
    change wheels byt perfectly doable for those with strong arms[1].
    Second best is 126mm spacing which is trivial to fit a 130mm hub in
    for those of moderate strength.

    Springing a modern 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame is trivial in my
    experience, it just needs a bit of careful aligning just before the wheel
    enters the drop-outs and maybe a shove to one side.

    If the bike is on friction shifting, then any 130mm rear will work, just
    select the number of cogs you want.
    Best compromise on cheap and long-life might be a decent hub (say Shimano
    105 quality) and a 7-speed cassette, keep the old friction shift derailleur
    and shifter. Later on, if seeking further upgrades, replace cassette with
    9/10 speed and also replace derailleur, shifter, front cranks, front
    derailleur, etc..

    Not sure if there is a similar Campagnolo route, perhaps someone could
    comment on using a Campag 8-speed cassette in a similar way ?

    Quoted message said:

    Cold setting is perfectly possible with a judicious use fo a 2x4 (see
    sheldons pages) or via other means.

    If its 126mm, unless a serious problem, I'd just leave alone and spring the
    wheel into place.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  5. [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Campag is as good as you can get. The problem is the design.


    [snip]

    Actually, I've had at least two Campag axles break so I've laid in a
    stock of spares.

    Anthony

    --
    Anthony Campbell - [email hidden]
    Microsoft-free zone - Using Linux Gnu-Debian
    http://www.acampbell.org.uk (blog, book reviews,
    on-line books and sceptical articles)

  6. in message <[email hidden]>, Anthony Campbell

    (') said:


    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    Campag is as good as you can get. The problem is the design.


    [snip]

    Actually, I've had at least two Campag axles break so I've laid in a
    stock of spares.

    Yup, I accept that. What I was saying was there's no other manufacturer
    whose pre-cassette hubs were stronger. Campag ones fail. So did everyone
    else's. That's why the design is no more.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    The trouble with Simon is that he only opens his mouth to change feet.
    ;; of me, by a 'friend'

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.