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Upside-down bike and corrosion

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16 May 2006
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  1. Hi,

    I hang my bikes upside-down on some hooks in my shed. I wonder if
    hanging upside-down has contributed to my corrosion problems.

    I live by the sea, so the air is salty, and it rains a bit so my bikes
    are often wet. After taking the bikes down from a winter of hanging,
    both my road bike and MTB needed new headsets (SIS steering sucks), and
    the shift cables were badly rusted particularly in the small casing at
    the rear derailleur. And the seatposts had corrosion near the top where
    the head was attached to the shaft that was suspucious enough for me to
    change them. (Broken seat post is bad)

    Does anyone think hanging upside-down made any difference? Or would
    these things have been just as bad were the bikes upright?

    Joseph

  2. Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    I hang my bikes upside-down on some hooks in my shed. I wonder if
    hanging upside-down has contributed to my corrosion problems.

    I live by the sea, so the air is salty, and it rains a bit so my bikes
    are often wet. After taking the bikes down from a winter of hanging,
    both my road bike and MTB needed new headsets (SIS steering sucks), and
    the shift cables were badly rusted particularly in the small casing at
    the rear derailleur. And the seatposts had corrosion near the top where
    the head was attached to the shaft that was suspucious enough for me to
    change them. (Broken seat post is bad)

    Does anyone think hanging upside-down made any difference? Or would
    these things have been just as bad were the bikes upright?

    I can't address your question, but can mention that in the boat world,
    we can seal our boats (some quite large) in enveloping air tight plastic
    for the winter. If you store your bikes all winter, you may consider
    this plus the addition of some desiccant.

    -paul

  3. My immediate thought is that upside down shouldn't make any difference,
    however upon reflecting a bit I can see ways that could make a difference.

    Does being upside down cause any part to collect moisture more. In other
    words, does it form a recepticle rather than being self draining in the
    other orientation.

    Look at the rust and see if it is on what is now the lower part (as opposed
    to being raised in the upright position).

    As far as the seatpost, in the upright position I'd normally expect the
    corrosion (under these conditions) mostly near where the seatpost goes into
    the frame rather than into the seat. Being upside down, I'd expect the
    opposite (as in your experience) as gravity now pushes the salt water
    towards the seat. That being said, the problem may be dissimular metals
    causing galvanic corrosion (such as steel to aluminum). If the frame and
    seat post are aluminum, there should be little electrical current and
    therefore little corrosion.

    If the metals are close to each other on the series, there is little
    galvanic corrosion, but if metals are far apart there can be lots of
    corrosion. However sea water has lots of these elements in it so in your
    environment almost anything can happen.

    All that being said, I like the other gentleman's idea of bagging the bike
    with dessicant. I might suggest washing the bike and thoroughly drying it
    before bagging it. Please see below for information regarding the
    electromotive (galvanic) series.

    -Pete

    = = = = = =
    This is from Corrosion Doctors
    http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/
    Galvanic Series
    Galvanic series relationships are useful as a guide for selecting metals to
    be joined, will help the selection of metals having minimal tendency to
    interact galvanically, or will indicate the need or degree of protection to
    be applied to lessen the expected potential interactions. In general, the
    further apart the materials are in the galvanic series, the higher the risk
    of galvanic corrosion, which should be prevented by design. Conversely, the
    farther one metal is from another, the greater the corrosion will be.
    However, the series does not provide any information on the rate of galvanic
    corrosion and thus serves as a basic qualitative guide only.

    Once you have finished reading the material on this page you can check your
    skills with a self test.
    Non-uniform conditions along the surface of a metal can also cause different
    energy potentials. For example, the portion of an anchor embedded in
    concrete typically has lower energy potential than the portion exposed to
    soil. The use of the galvanic series has to be done with caution and a basic
    knowledge of the environments that is a necessary part of this serious form
    of corrosion. The following documents provide different points of view
    regarding the ranking of metals and coatings in practical schemes for
    preventing galvanic corrosion.

    Galvanic Table
    The following galvanic table lists metals in the order of their relative
    activity in seawater environment. The list begins with the more active
    (anodic) metal and proceeds down the to the least active (cathodic) metal of
    the galvanic series. A "galvanic series" applies to a particular electrolyte
    solution, hence for each specific solution which is expected to be
    encountered for actual use, a different order or series will ensue. In a
    galvanic couple, the metal higher in the series (or the smaller) represents
    the anode, and will corrode preferentially in the environment. Listed below
    is the latest galvanic table from MIL-STD-889 where the materials have been
    numbered for discussion of characteristics. However, for any combination of
    dissimilar metals, the metal with the lower number will act as an anode and
    will corrode preferentially. The table is the galvanic series of metals in
    sea water from Army Missile Command Report RS-TR-67-11, "Practical Galvanic
    Series." (reference)

    Active (Anodic)

    1.. Magnesium
    2.. Mg alloy AZ-31B
    3.. Mg alloy HK-31A
    4.. Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
    5.. Beryllium (hot pressed)
    6.. Al 7072 clad on 7075
    7.. Al 2014-T3
    8.. Al 1160-H14
    9.. Al 7079-T6
    10.. Cadmium (plated)
    11.. Uranium
    12.. Al 218 (die cast)
    13.. Al 5052-0
    14.. Al 5052-H12
    15.. Al 5456-0, H353
    16.. Al 5052-H32
    17.. Al 1100-0
    18.. Al 3003-H25
    19.. Al 6061-T6
    20.. Al A360 (die cast)
    21.. Al 7075-T6
    22.. Al 6061-0
    23.. Indium
    24.. Al 2014-0
    25.. Al 2024-T4
    26.. Al 5052-H16
    27.. Tin (plated)
    28.. Stainless steel 430 (active)
    29.. Lead
    30.. Steel 1010
    31.. Iron (cast)
    32.. Stainless steel 410 (active)
    33.. Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
    34.. Nickel (plated)
    35.. Chromium (Plated)
    36.. Tantalum
    37.. AM350 (active)
    38.. Stainless steel 310 (active)
    39.. Stainless steel 301 (active)
    40.. Stainless steel 304 (active)
    41.. Stainless steel 430 (active)
    42.. Stainless steel 410 (active)
    43.. Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
    44.. Tungsten
    45.. Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
    46.. Brass, Yellow, 268
    47.. Uranium 8% Mo
    48.. Brass, Naval, 464
    49.. Yellow Brass
    50.. Muntz Metal 280
    51.. Brass (plated)
    52.. Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
    53.. Stainless steel 316L (active)
    54.. Bronze 220
    55.. Copper 110
    56.. Red Brass
    57.. Stainless steel 347 (active)
    58.. Molybdenum, Commercial pure
    59.. Copper-nickel 715
    60.. Admiralty brass
    61.. Stainless steel 202 (active)
    62.. Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
    63.. Monel 400
    64.. Stainless steel 201 (active)
    65.. Carpenter 20 (active)
    66.. Stainless steel 321 (active)
    67.. Stainless steel 316 (active)
    68.. Stainless steel 309 (active)
    69.. Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
    70.. Silicone Bronze 655
    71.. Stainless steel 304 (passive)
    72.. Stainless steel 301 (passive)
    73.. Stainless steel 321 (passive)
    74.. Stainless steel 201 (passive)
    75.. Stainless steel 286 (passive)
    76.. Stainless steel 316L (passive)
    77.. AM355 (active)
    78.. Stainless steel 202 (passive)
    79.. Carpenter 20 (passive)
    80.. AM355 (passive)
    81.. A286 (passive)
    82.. Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
    83.. Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
    84.. Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
    85.. Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
    86.. Titanium 8Mn
    87.. Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
    88.. Titanium 75A
    89.. AM350 (passive)
    90.. Silver
    91.. Gold
    92.. Graphite
    End - Noble (Less Active, Cathodic)

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Galvanic Compatibility
    Often when design requires that dissimilar metals come in contact, the
    galvanic compatibility is managed by finishes and plating. The finishing and
    plating selected facilitate the dissimilar materials being in contact and
    protect the base materials from corrosion.(reference)

    a.. For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt
    environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more
    than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver
    would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.
    b.. For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or
    non-temperature and humidity controlled environments. Typically there should
    not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index".
    c.. For controlled environments, such that are temperature and humidity
    controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. Caution should be maintained when
    deciding for this application as humidity and temperature do vary from
    regions.

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi,

    I hang my bikes upside-down on some hooks in my shed. I wonder if
    hanging upside-down has contributed to my corrosion problems.

    I live by the sea, so the air is salty, and it rains a bit so my bikes
    are often wet. After taking the bikes down from a winter of hanging,
    both my road bike and MTB needed new headsets (SIS steering sucks), and
    the shift cables were badly rusted particularly in the small casing at
    the rear derailleur. And the seatposts had corrosion near the top where
    the head was attached to the shaft that was suspucious enough for me to
    change them. (Broken seat post is bad)

    Does anyone think hanging upside-down made any difference? Or would
    these things have been just as bad were the bikes upright?

    Joseph

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