Which is more advisable...standing or sitting while climbing hillls?

Quoted message said:

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

It's partly a function of bike fit; if you're in a goofy position over the
stem when standing, things can feel a bit strange. You might bring it back
into the shop and have them check how you look on it, and perhaps do a run
past them sprinting while standing. Not just stem length, but also the
differential between saddle and handlebar height can cause issues.

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers; LeMond
prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you can move around
and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

Randolf

Quoted message said:

Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

Same way that you get to Carnegie Hall.

randolf_scott said:

Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

The ability to ride while standing on the pedals will come with practice.
It is a good idea to be able to do this. You may encounter a hill that
you can't climb any other way (except walking).

Climbing while sitting has real advantages, in that you can better control
your energy output and continue climbing for longer periods. Standing
tends to push you quickly into the anaerobic zone, giving you lots of
strength, but not much endurance.

But hills come in all sorts of sizes. I usually blast, out of the saddle,
over a rolling hill, or a short, steep one. But on a longer hill,
especially if it is not too steep, I try to sit and spin.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
_`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
(_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

Randolf Scott said:

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and
climb. I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope... seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

Considering that every athletic bicyclist I have seen climbs both
sitting and standing, you might consider that you are doing it
differently and therefore ineffectively. If you climb long hills, the
low cadence and high force tires the muscles and to give them a
recovery, most riders choose to change back and forth between sitting
and standing.

Many racers climb an entire alpine mountain pass standing for as long
as an hour or more. Once you get the hang of it, I think you'll find
it a benefit and an essential for high output. Watch a bicycle race
and see how riders sprint or how they climb Filmore Street in San
Francisco for instance.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2005/sep05/sanfrangp05/?id=jd05sf05

Quoted message said:

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct
the standing/tipping issue?

I'm not sure what the tipping issue that you mention is, but I take it
you ride mostly alone and not with other young and active bicyclists.
Find a group of seasoned bicyclists and watch their riding.

Jobst Brandt

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

It's partly a function of bike fit; if you're in a goofy position over the
stem when standing, things can feel a bit strange. You might bring it back
into the shop and have them check how you look on it, and perhaps do a run
past them sprinting while standing. Not just stem length, but also the
differential between saddle and handlebar height can cause issues.

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers; LeMond
prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you can move around
and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

I agree. A buddy of mine couldn't understand why I could climb standing
so easy till he got a new bike with a proper fit. Wow....he said.
Last year I did a training and climb for the whole 10 km of the Passo
Gardena. It wasn't my fastest run though ;-). On long climbs a sit most
of the time and stand from time to time (in the hairpins) to relax my
back a bit. Works better for me.

Lou
--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu

1. Check your position on your bike.

2. Check the balance of the bike. Can you ride with no hands without
the bike starting to feel unstable? A balanced bike should be easy to
handle without hands (use a quiet, flat, straight stretch🙂. If your
bike feels unstable bring it to the shop and let it be checked, maybe
the wheels need to be alligned.

3. If the bike is good, practice a bit on a straight stretch. Do some
sprints standing.

4. When you climb you need to lean to the front, but normally that
should go automatically when you balance the bike.

5. I also reccomend doing some easy handling practice:

Ride at 7-8 miles an hour and lift your front wheel by giving a slight
pull and moving your weight to the back, while pedalling a bit harder.
You will sit on the saddle for this one (can be done standing too btw).
A few inches of your wheel in the air is plenty 🙂

If you think you can do this easily, try to lift your rear wheel and
both wheels (I'm sure someone can show you how).

It seems silly and childish, but it does make you better aware of the
bikes balance and handling. It will also let you gain some confidence.

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing -- at least
for intense efforts. Not true?

Sorni said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing -- at least
for intense efforts. Not true?

I always found that when I am mashing up a hill with the ankling turned
up a notch that sliding back to I guess increase the effective seat
height is the only way to do it. But doing some high cadence, high
effort spinning (like a long seated sprint, or trying to drop people on
a descent) necessitates moving forward to the nose. I think cadence and
ankling are the two important factors here.

Joseph

In addition to all the useful posts in this thread, LeMond said that he
likes to stand for about 20% of a climb. 30 seconds every 2.5 minutes.
This seems to work for me, but I choose when to stand based on the
terrain. If it gets a little steeper, that's a great place to stand.

Also, while climbing out of the saddle, you may need to shift 1 or 2
cogs to a smaller one, unless you were overgeared when seated. Standing
is a lower cadence position, and needs more pedal resistance to be
comfortable.

-Mike

Sorni said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing --
at least for intense efforts. Not true?

That's usually true when offroad. You have to or you'll tip backwards :-)
Sliding back on the saddle gives you extra power and is easy to do on the
road.

--
Perre

Symfoni, en kost- och träningsdagbok
http://www.kostforum.se

Quoted message said:

Sorni said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing --
at least for intense efforts. Not true?

I always found that when I am mashing up a hill with the ankling
turned up a notch that sliding back to I guess increase the effective
seat height is the only way to do it. But doing some high cadence,
high effort spinning (like a long seated sprint, or trying to drop
people on a descent) necessitates moving forward to the nose. I think
cadence and ankling are the two important factors here.

Hmmm. I always slide my butt to the back of the saddle (or even off it)
while descending.

NO WONDER I never drop anyone! LOL

(Actually, I'm a pretty fast descender on the road and singletrack. Not so
hot over really technical trails, however.)

Per Elmsäter said:

Sorni said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing --
at least for intense efforts. Not true?

That's usually true when offroad. You have to or you'll tip backwards
:-) Sliding back on the saddle gives you extra power and is easy to
do on the road.

Ah, good point(s). I'll try to take note next time and see what I tend to
do.

Sorni said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of climbers;
LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better overall if you
can move around and adapt multiple positions for longer climbs.

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing -- at least
for intense efforts. Not true?

What you are describing is riding the rivet. In the days of old when
everyone had genuine leather saddles with the rivet on the top front,
you more or less sat on this rivet when sprinting. Now only those who
value comfort use genuine leather saddles. The uncomfortable plastic
torture devices have supplanted Brooks and Ideale saddles. If you see
pictures of track racers you will see them riding the rivet.
Particularly the kilo riders and individual time trial race of 4000
meters. Pictures of Boardman and the hour racer who committed suicide
recently are frequently shown during their hour rides on the rivet.
They were going at an intense effort for an hour. All of the rivet
pictures have the person in the drops or as low as possible. Climbing
is usually done on the hoods or tops, not the drops. You are sitting
up too high when on the hoods or tops to get your weight forward.

Quoted message said:

Now only those who
value comfort use genuine leather saddles.

I think there are people who value nostalgia and use them.

JT

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In article <[email hidden]>,

John Forrest Tomlinson said:

Quoted message said:

Now only those who value comfort use genuine leather saddles.

I think there are people who value nostalgia and use them.

And may or may not be comfortable.

You should do both depending on the situation so I'd suggest learning
how to stand. Many other posts have spoken more eloquently then
myself about fit and that is important. One thing I've noticed when I
want to keep a decent speed up a hill is not having the bike in too low a
gear if I'm going to stand. There has to be resistance so the cadence
isn't too high, its not spinning as in sitting but more using your whole
body weight. Of course I could be doing it all wrong but it works for me.

Rick

In article
<[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

Randolf

Joseph Santaniello said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Pushing yourself back on the saddle is normal for a lot of
climbers; LeMond prefers such a position. But you'll do better
overall if you can move around and adapt multiple positions for
longer climbs.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I always thought people sit up on the saddle nose while climbing --
at least for intense efforts. Not true?

Quoted message said:

I always found that when I am mashing up a hill with the ankling
turned up a notch that sliding back to I guess increase the
effective seat height is the only way to do it. But doing some high
cadence, high effort spinning (like a long seated sprint, or trying
to drop people on a descent) necessitates moving forward to the
nose. I think cadence and ankling are the two important factors
here.

The reason for pushing back on the saddle is to move rider CG back and
enable pulling on the bars to increase downward pedaling thrust, the
rider's weight being behind the downward stroke enough to add useful
weight to the downstroke. Pulling up on the pedals to accomplish this
is wasteful in the long haul because it is more tiring by involving
extra muscles in the effort. Each muscle has its overhead losses.

Note that work is force x distance. Therefore, pulling on the bars is
not directly work expended because the rider mass does not move
significantly relative to the bars. Pulling up on pedals, is work.

Jobst Brandt

[email hidden said:

"]Team,

Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand on a road bike and climb.
I've tried that maybe twice and it was like walking a tight
rope...seriously. The bike wanted to tip over. This forces me to
remain seated while climbing and accelerating.

So, instead I just push my butt to the back of the seat and put my tree
trunk legs into "crank
mode". Like having an extra gear without the gear change. Anyone else
do this?

Which is more advisable? Standing or sitting? How can one correct the
standing/tipping issue?

Randolf

Mix it up. If sitting suits you stay mostly seated and try to get into a rhythm. Standing occasionally relieves the muscles you use when seated until you feel like resuming the grind.

Quoted message said:

How can one correct the standing/tipping issue?

Stationary trainer, or Spin class, so you can practice without tipping
over. There are a few places (YMCA, private gyms, one bike store)
around here where you can go to a Spin class for $5. Not quite the same
as your bike on the road but standing ("climbing"😉 is usually a big
part of the deal.
IME there's a useful transfer to road riding. The uh, social situation
is usually different from the normal road ride, too. --D-y