stuck saddle post

David Gillbe said:

Anyway got any old wives tales for getting a saddle post that seems to have stuck inside my frame
(possibly rusted in) I've tried excessive amounts of oil, but doesn't seem to have helped, so any
cunning plans etc. much appreciated

Consult the Oracle: sheldonbrown.comstuck seatposts.htmlOpen ↗

Guy
===
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Quoted message said:

Anyway got any old wives tales for getting a saddle post that seems to

have

Quoted message said:

stuck inside my frame (possibly rusted in) I've tried excessive amounts of oil, but doesn't seem
to have helped, so any cunning plans etc. much appreciated Dave

If you can get the bottom bracket off...

Invert the frame and pour Coca-cola into the section in which the seat post is stuck. Leave
overnight.

If it works, you'll never forget to clean your teeth again after drinking Coke.

go to hardware store get some plus gas freeing fluid its should work leave it overnight If its
rusted solid it dissolves the rust Good luck

David Gillbe said:

read anyone rather than anyway for the first word of that last post!

Maybe "everyone" would be closer to the mark, looking at the flood of directions to the Bearded
One's site :-)

Guy
===
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NOTE: BT Openworld have now blocked port 25 (without notice), so old mail addresses may no longer
work. Apologies.

Its an aluminium seat post in a steel frame - good corrossion properties between those two :-) I'll
try the Ammonia idea at some stage, but if not then its the heat job
:-(
thanks for the help anyway guys

An attempt to go to your much suggested site revealed this: maybe I need to check my saddle post
network settings or something!

The page cannot be displayed The page you are looking for is currently unavailable. The
Web site might be experiencing technical difficulties, or you may need to adjust your
browser settings.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please try the following:

a.. Click the Refresh button, or try again later.

b.. If you typed the page address in the Address bar, make sure that it is spelled
correctly.

c.. To check your connection settings, click the Tools menu, and then click Internet
Options. On the Connections tab, click Settings. The settings should match those provided
by your local area network (LAN) administrator or Internet service provider (ISP).
d.. If your Network Administrator has enabled it, Microsoft Windows can examine your network
and automatically discover network connection settings. If you would like Windows to try
and discover them, click Detect Network Settings
e.. Some sites require 128-bit connection security. Click the Help menu and then click About
Internet Explorer to determine what strength security you have installed.
f.. If you are trying to reach a secure site, make sure your Security settings can support
it. Click the Tools menu, and then click Internet Options. On the Advanced tab, scroll to
the Security section and check settings for SSL 2.0, SSL 3.0, TLS 1.0, PCT 1.0.
g.. Click the Back button to try another link.

David Gillbe said:

Its an aluminium seat post in a steel frame - good corrossion properties between those two :-) I'll
try the Ammonia idea at some stage, but if not then its the heat job
:-(
thanks for the help anyway guys

I managed to free an seized alu seatpost from a steel frame by drilling a hole through the
seat post, passing a bar through it and using that to apply lots of torque (didn't have access
to a vice).

Worth a shot?

Bob
--
Mail address is spam trapped To reply by email remove the beverage

Call me Bob said:

I managed to free an seized alu seatpost from a steel frame by drilling a hole through the
seat post, passing a bar through it and using that to apply lots of torque (didn't have access
to a vice).

Sheldon will tell you not to try it but a good lump hammer on that bar has worked for me

Tony

raven-family.comraven-family.comOpen ↗

"The single biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place" George
Bernard Shaw.

On a similar note how about seized mudgard bolts. I dont want to give it too much welly in case I
twist the head of. Also they seem rather hard to drill out

David Gillbe said:

An attempt to go to your much suggested site revealed this: maybe I need to check my saddle post
network settings or something!

Ah, the good old IE "friendly error message" (i.e. message obscuring anything which might be in any
way helful for diagnosing the problem).

I suggest a return visit - <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck_seatposts.html> is definitely online
right now.

Guy
===
** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. chapmancentral.comchapmancentral.comOpen ↗ (BT ADSL and
dynamic DNS permitting)
NOTE: BT Openworld have now blocked port 25 (without notice), so old mail addresses may no longer
work. Apologies.

bob watkinson said:

On a similar note how about seized mudgard bolts. I dont want to give it too much welly in case I
twist the head of. Also they seem rather hard to drill out

Plenty of penetrating oil and leave it to soak. Using an impact driver often helps more than the
continous force of a standard wrench. Unfortunately if the bond is too strong, the bolt will shear
before it will release. In which case you need a bolt extractor. Perversely once the head has gone
its often a lot easier to extract the stub because the pressure has gone off the threads. Bolt
extractors and impact drivers available from any good tool shop or Halfords although they might cost
a few quid.

Tony

raven-family.comraven-family.comOpen ↗

"The single biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place" George
Bernard Shaw.