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Mini-engine positioning on bicycle ?

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Road Cycling
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2 May 2006
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  1. With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
    bicycle add-on engines ?

    Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
    Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
    obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

    The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
    strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
    This gives a very small engine.

    Where would you mount it ?
    Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
    chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

    It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
    Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

    I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

    Ideas/criticism ?

    Thanks,

    == Chris Glur.

  2. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
    bicycle add-on engines ?

    Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
    Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
    obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

    The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
    strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
    This gives a very small engine.

    Where would you mount it ?
    Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
    chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

    It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
    Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

    I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

    Ideas/criticism ?

    Thanks,

    == Chris Glur.


    Well they have a lot of those for sale on ebay. Unfortunately they require a
    good mechanical skill set to install and get working. Plus some of those
    kits are plain junk too.
    But, over the years since the 60's, these gas powered bicycles are
    discouraged a lot by the government now. Most all the states treat any gas
    engine powered bicycle as a real motor vehicle now, so you need to title,
    register, get insurance and have a driver's license as well to operate them
    on a road. You might have better luck with the electric motor and battery
    kits they sell though. The governments now tend to encourage those types of
    vehicles. Many states let you ride a electirc bicycle or scooter on the low
    speed limit roads wihtout having to title, register them or needing a
    driver's license even.
    Unfortunately some of those kits may still be tricky to install. But the
    kits with the motor (motor in the hub) installed in the front wheel would be
    the best one of the bunch to setup and use.

    But what is best though, is to get a good bicycle and just start riding it a
    lot, you'll get stronger over a period of time, and eventually you will not
    want to power it with anything except your own legs.

  3. I'd advise going electric... much simpler, and less air and noise
    pollution. Getting a prebuilt scooter is probably the best option.

  4. Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
    in China. You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
    internet. Here are just a few.

    http://thatsdacs.com
    http://www.livefastmotors.com
    http://kingsmotorbikes.com

    I ride one every day and they work great.

    Q

    Quoted message said:

    With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
    bicycle add-on engines ?

    Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
    Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
    obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

    The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
    strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
    This gives a very small engine.

    Where would you mount it ?
    Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
    chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

    It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.
    Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

    I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

    Ideas/criticism ?

    Thanks,

    == Chris Glur.

  5. Q said:

    Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
    in China.

    http://thatsdacs.com
    http://www.livefastmotors.com
    http://kingsmotorbikes.com

    China has horrible air pollution. And if there are millions of these
    2-stokes with minimal exhaust system things around it's no wonder.

    Please don't get one of these.

    Rich

  6. Quoted message said:

    With the new petroleum price it's time to re-examine the 60's
    bicycle add-on engines ?

    Very few of them then drove the existing chain.
    Now with the well developed 'multispeed gearing', it seems
    obvious that the engine should use this existing mechanism.

    No, actually, it's not obvious at all. The prevalent design of
    derailleur gearing setup mandates that the cranks must turn when the
    system is under power. Any acceptable engine assist system will
    include a way to disengage the cranks; this is not presently a feature
    of any mainstream (or market-accepted, for that matter) derailleur
    gear setup. What's more obvious is that an assist engine should have
    a drive system that is as fully disengaged as possible when using
    human power, so that the only penalty when pedalling is the extra
    weight of the motor and system. I believe this is best accomplished
    by the use of a special rear hub equipped with a second freewheeling
    sprocket on the left side, permitting the assist engine to drive the
    rear wheel independent of and separate from the human-power system.

    Other solutions definitely exist; this is just the one that makes the
    most sense to me.

    Quoted message said:

    The extra forces to be handled should not exceed 50% of a
    strong rider, to be able to use existing/stock machines.
    This gives a very small engine.

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Where would you mount it ?

    Aft of, and if possible below, the seat.

    Quoted message said:

    Could it drive a 'wheel' on the opposite side to the existing
    chain crank. Or directly to the existing chain ?

    See above. This would require redesigning too many things, when
    reworking just one will do the job as well.

    Quoted message said:

    It would have to be clutched and probably geared down.

    Centrifugal clutches are cheap and reliable. Gearing the engine down
    is probably best done with a jackshaft.

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps a belt-drive to do both ?

    You're adding needless energy loss unless you want the belt to be part
    of a variable-ratio drive system. Keep the speed and grade-climbing
    parameters within a narrow (but still useful) range, and you don't
    need it.

    I will note, however, that many belt-drive motorized bicycles were
    made prior to World War II, and one common approach was to put the
    pulley groove on the side of the rear rim, thereby providing a useful
    gearing solution with minimal effort. Unfortunately, this requires a
    wider rear stay spacing than is used on normal bicycles; a special
    frame would be needed in order to employ it.

    Quoted message said:

    I wish I had access to one of those 3D CAD facilities.

    You need more than an idea and a drafting tool to execute such a
    design successfully.

    Quoted message said:

    Ideas/criticism ?

    I will simply note that such assist motor systems are already on the
    market. If they become too popular and/or too powerful, they will
    attract the attention of the regulatory bodies, and we'll probably see
    them banned, either temporarily or permanently. This has happened
    before; the US state of Florida, for one, banned such assist motors in
    the 1960s or '70s. If a bicycle was seen underway via non-rider
    power, the rider was subject to being cited for operating an
    unlicensed motor vehicle and failure to have the vehicle inspected.
    (Later, when insurance was made mandatory for all drivers, failure to
    show proof of insurance would have been an additional charge that
    could have been levied, but by then the market for assist motors was
    completely dead.) It is my understanding that in more recent years,
    this ban was relaxed to permit the sale of mopeds, but one should not
    underestimate the potential for legislative action to render such
    systems useless once again. Here in Texas, the use of pocket bikes
    (both gas and battery-powered) by underage riders became enough of a
    nuisance that they have slowly been getting banned from on-street use;
    in the process, such "alternative transport" devices as the Segway
    have been placed in legal limbo since they are usually not excluded
    from the bans.

    Any effort to promulgate a powered transport device should be
    undertaken with due care and attention to keeping the regulatory
    bodies from hamstringing the effort before it can get started.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  7. Q said:

    Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
    in China.

    Among a population that has *three* commas in its enumerator. That's
    not as commonplace as it sounds. Even "tens of millions" would still
    make it a niche presence.

    Quoted message said:

    You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
    internet. Here are just a few.

    http://thatsdacs.com
    http://www.livefastmotors.com
    http://kingsmotorbikes.com

    I note that all of those are essentially the same motor setup, and
    they all require a 36-spoke rear wheel. The rear sprocket is clamped
    to the spokes. I didn't see a provision for accurately centering the
    sprocket. Additionally, the engine is a 2-stroke unit; the operation
    of those is already banned (for *any* device) in certain parts of the
    US due to pollution concerns. While the fuel consumption is small,
    the probability is high that these would actually produce more grams
    per mile of HC, CO and NOx pollution than a late-model compact car.

    All in all, I'm not impressed. Quite the reverse. As an engineer I
    once knew said, "If these were munitions, I would recommend that they
    be supplied to the enemy in the greatest quantity possible." On the
    other hand, I think the makers are on the right track; they mostly
    need a cleaner-running engine and a better rear hub setup (and better
    mounting system) to make this into a potentially acceptable product.
    (In other words, chuck it and start over using the same idea with
    better execution.)

    I'm sure the Chinese will soon be making and supplying something
    cleaner and/or less improvised for their domestic market.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  8. There are also 4 stroke engine kits made for bicycles by
    http://www.bikeengines.com

    I built one using their belt system parts and a Honda GX31 4 stroke
    engine a few years ago. Worked fine but was lacking in power compared to
    the Chinese engines. I still have it hanging in the garage.

    Q

    Werehatrack said:
    Q said:

    Why reinvent the wheel? There are millions of bikes with engines in use
    in China.

    Among a population that has *three* commas in its enumerator. That's
    not as commonplace as it sounds. Even "tens of millions" would still
    make it a niche presence.

    Quoted message said:

    You can buy them in the US from a bunch of sources on the
    internet. Here are just a few.

    http://thatsdacs.com
    http://www.livefastmotors.com
    http://kingsmotorbikes.com

    I note that all of those are essentially the same motor setup, and
    they all require a 36-spoke rear wheel. The rear sprocket is clamped
    to the spokes. I didn't see a provision for accurately centering the
    sprocket. Additionally, the engine is a 2-stroke unit; the operation
    of those is already banned (for *any* device) in certain parts of the
    US due to pollution concerns. While the fuel consumption is small,
    the probability is high that these would actually produce more grams
    per mile of HC, CO and NOx pollution than a late-model compact car.

    All in all, I'm not impressed. Quite the reverse. As an engineer I
    once knew said, "If these were munitions, I would recommend that they
    be supplied to the enemy in the greatest quantity possible." On the
    other hand, I think the makers are on the right track; they mostly
    need a cleaner-running engine and a better rear hub setup (and better
    mounting system) to make this into a potentially acceptable product.
    (In other words, chuck it and start over using the same idea with
    better execution.)

    I'm sure the Chinese will soon be making and supplying something
    cleaner and/or less improvised for their domestic market.

  9. Earl Bollinger said:


    But, over the years since the 60's, these gas powered bicycles are
    discouraged a lot by the government now. Most all the states treat any gas
    engine powered bicycle as a real motor vehicle now, so you need to title,
    register, get insurance and have a driver's license as well to operate them
    on a road.

    Many if not most gas-powered bicycles qualify as mopeds. In most
    states, these have to be licensed (one time only), but do not require
    insurance or a motorcycle endorsement to operate.

    Quoted message said:

    You might have better luck with the electric motor and battery
    kits they sell though. The governments now tend to encourage those types of
    vehicles. Many states let you ride a electirc bicycle or scooter on the low
    speed limit roads wihtout having to title, register them or needing a
    driver's license even.

    Most states have settled on the Federal Government's arbitrary limit of
    750W (1.0 HP) output and 20mph maximum assisted speed for an electric
    bike to be legally classified the same as an ordinary bicycle.

    Quoted message said:

    Unfortunately some of those kits may still be tricky to install. But the
    kits with the motor (motor in the hub) installed in the front wheel would be
    the best one of the bunch to setup and use.

    Front hub motors are the easiest kind of kit to set up, but the best
    ones to use are those which drive through the bike's gearing. Examples
    of those include the Cyclone kit (for single chainring derailleur
    bikes) and Stokemonkey (for Xtracycle-equipped bikes). There are also
    turn-key electric bikes like the Merida Powercycle and Giant LaFree
    Lite that come with powered cranks rather than powered wheels.

    http://www.cyclone-tw.com/
    http://cleverchimp.com/

    Chalo Colina

  10. I agree with Ed's comment about self-power. Once I got to _enjoy_
    climbing Upton Hill nearby, I found that one climb of the hill would
    "power me through" an easy 25 mile ride. That is, the hill workout
    reduced my intolerance to physical work; it increased my upper limit.

    I motivated myself to climb the Hill by doing it at dawn, the prize
    being the tremendous view of my area and the dawn colors.

    I didn't so any body-building, I just got used to the feeling my legs.
    No sweat, just feeling the burn. Really made a difference. At one point
    I was limited to one mile rides. Now we do 25 almost every Saturday.
    Jeff goes on to do another 20 or 40. Shees.

    Doug

  11. Werehatrack said:

    You're adding needless energy loss unless you want the belt to be part
    of a variable-ratio drive system. Keep the speed and grade-climbing
    parameters within a narrow (but still useful) range, and you don't
    need it.

    I will note, however, that many belt-drive motorized bicycles were
    made prior to World War II, and one common approach was to put the
    pulley groove on the side of the rear rim, thereby providing a useful
    gearing solution with minimal effort. Unfortunately, this requires a
    wider rear stay spacing than is used on normal bicycles; a special
    frame would be needed in order to employ it.

    I have built a front wheel with a 26 1-3/8 tire on it and an inner
    conentric rim off to one side having 24 inch nominal size. It is
    centered quite well. This won't work with an MTB-sixed 26 inch rim, at
    least not the farily deep-section steel rim on my old MTB. A less deep
    aluminum MTB rim might work this way, providing a path for add-ons, at
    the cost of relacing the wheel with the old spokes, a labor expense. I
    still have this wheel and would like donate it to an experimenter here
    in rbm or rbt.

    Doug Goncz
    Replikon Research
    Falls Church, VA 22044-0394

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