It is my understanding that rims with eyelets are supposed to support high spoke tension better the those without, but I'm troubled by the annoying clicking that seems inherent in Open Pros. A friend recently had wheels built with these rims and they are clicking like crazy. I know the fix is to lube the eyelets, but that seems like a pain in the neck if you have to do it too often. I built two sets of wheels myself using MA2s and I don't have this clicking problem that modern Open Pros have.
I'm in the market for a new set of racing wheels and am torn by what rim to use. Non eyeleted Ritchey Aero Pro with OCR rear seem appealing because without eyelets there is no chance of eyelets clicking! Velocity Aerohead are similar. From the rim profiles it seems that the Aerohead has more material to support spokes than the Ritcheys, which seems good. Is the lack of thickness a concern with the Ritcheys? Any thoughts on eyelets vs no eyelets?
Eyelets, paticularly double were a method of spreading loads on the flat topped box rims of old. The wisdom of velocity, ritchey and others is the "aero profile" that provides a nearly straight load path from spoke bed to brake surface. With rim walls that follow load paths, the main benefits of eyelets is the torque reducing effect on nipples. This builder acheives this function with an oil diluted mix of anti-seize applied after lacing, before tensioning. Eyelets also require a slightly larger hole. The only "bad" rims are those that should have eyelets by their thinwall box design, but leave them out in false economy. Tom
-- Bruni Bicycles "Where art meets science" brunibicycles.com 410.426.3420 Wayne Pein <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
It is my understanding that rims with eyelets are supposed to support high spoke tension better the those without, but I'm troubled by the annoying clicking that seems inherent in Open Pros. A friend recently had wheels built with these rims and they are clicking like crazy. I know the fix is to lube the eyelets, but that seems like a pain in the neck if you have to do it too often. I built two sets of wheels myself using MA2s and I don't have this clicking problem that modern Open Pros have.
I'm in the market for a new set of racing wheels and am torn by what rim to use. Non eyeleted Ritchey Aero Pro with OCR rear seem appealing because without eyelets there is no chance of eyelets clicking! Velocity Aerohead are similar. From the rim profiles it seems that the Aerohead has more material to support spokes than the Ritcheys, which seems good. Is the lack of thickness a concern with the Ritcheys? Any thoughts on eyelets vs no eyelets?
lack of thickness a concern with the Ritcheys? Any thoughts on eyelets vs no eyelets?
Don't judge all eyelets by the Open Pro's. I've heard some of them, and they can be noisy. I'm not sure it's the eyelets, though. I've had many wheels over the years with eyelets (used to call them ferrules, though), and none had this problem. I've also had wheels with no eyelets that have worked well. I think the eyelets make the wheel easier to build well, and certainly easier to true up later on. Bare spoke holes tend to corrode up faster.
--
David L. Johnson
__o | the people can always be brought to the bidding of the leaders. _`\(,_ | That is easy. All you have to do is tell them they are being (_)/ (_) | attacked, and denounce the peacemakers for lack of patriotism and exposing the country to danger. It works the same in any <country. -- Hermann Goering
one of my open pro rears used to click like crazy, but i slacked off all the spokes and started over using a tensiometer. it's been quiet since. that was about a year ago. ymmv.
It is my understanding that rims with eyelets are supposed to support high spoke tension better the those without, but I'm troubled by the annoying clicking that seems inherent in Open Pros.
Huh. I have had wheels built with Open Pros with no clicking- at least not for a while. When they did start clicking (an going out of true) it turned out that they had cracked. I figured that I was hearing the edges of the cracks fretting against each other as the wheel rotated.
Quoted message said:
A friend recently had wheels built with these rims and they are clicking like crazy. I know the fix is to lube the eyelets, but that seems like a pain in the neck if you have to do it too often. I built two sets of wheels myself using MA2s and I don't have this clicking problem that modern Open Pros have.
I've never (yet) had MA2s develop clicking like this and have never (yet) cracked one. I've also not cracked my 7 year old Sun CR16a polished aluminum rims with no eyelets at all; those have about 18,000 miles on them. But the rear wheel is 135 mm OLN and 7 speed, so there's a lot less dish than in most 8/9/10 speed wheels.
The clicking noise can be the small piece of metal inside the welded point coming loose. I've fixed this on several Mavic rims by removing tyre and tube and using a centre punch to bang a dimple in the rim bed to hold that metal piece tight again.
Nick
"Wayne Pein" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
It is my understanding that rims with eyelets are supposed to support high spoke tension better the those without, but I'm troubled by the annoying clicking that seems inherent in Open Pros.
The clicking noise can be the small piece of metal inside the welded point coming loose. I've fixed this on several Mavic rims by removing tyre and tube and using a centre punch to bang a dimple in the rim bed to hold that metal piece tight again.
Nick
My understanding is that Mavic has addressed this problem on newer Open Pros.
