Removing Top paint layer

"Rudge" wrote: (clip) Is there anything else I can use?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You are definitely right about not using paint remover. You can probably
get the spray coat off with lacquer thinner or acetone, applied sparingly
with a rag. Don't get the rag too wet, and use lots of rubbing. Four
factors are working for you: 1.) The spray paint is on top. 2.) The
spray paint is much younger, so has not dried as hard. 3.) The original
finish is most probably a harder, higher quality paint than the spray coat.
4.) If the spray was applied by a rank amateur, the original coat was
probably not sanded. which will also work in your favor.

When you get to a point where very little of the spray finish is left, you
might try rubbing compound to get the last little bit. If this is a lugged
frame, or one with many grooves, corners or crevices, that will make things
more difficult.

Try another discussion group say auto restoration or auto paint or
antique auto or paint metal
Sheldon brown and Andrew Muzi have experience here fersure
I ground into it several times but inadvertently off course using an
abrasive paint removal pad of woven plastic both pro from the auto
paint store and general use from walmart.
Liquid was thinner. Give yourself a break and use deodorized thinner
- stay upwind - use a fan
And thinner proof gloves - beware all gloves are not thinner proof
but imply they are - happens at home depot where glove packs will
imply the useage is for solvents like thinner but the package will read
not thinner useable in terms of liability - so ??? that's my
experience: cheap thinner proof gloves are not thinner proof but
expensive ones could be

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 22:32:19 GMT, "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

"Rudge" wrote: (clip) Is there anything else I can use?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You are definitely right about not using paint remover. You can probably
get the spray coat off with lacquer thinner or acetone, applied sparingly
with a rag. Don't get the rag too wet, and use lots of rubbing. Four
factors are working for you: 1.) The spray paint is on top. 2.) The
spray paint is much younger, so has not dried as hard. 3.) The original
finish is most probably a harder, higher quality paint than the spray coat.
4.) If the spray was applied by a rank amateur, the original coat was
probably not sanded. which will also work in your favor.

When you get to a point where very little of the spray finish is left, you
might try rubbing compound to get the last little bit. If this is a lugged
frame, or one with many grooves, corners or crevices, that will make things
more difficult.

Mineral spirits worked for me to solve just this problem. Fortunately, I didn't
have a whole frame to scrub off, just a "test spray" looking mess on the top
tube. Anyway, elbow grease a few paper towels and the paint thinner did the job
without damage.

Ron

Rudge said:

I want to remove a layer of 'spray can' paint which is covering the original
paint finish on a 15 year old frame.

I'd like to keep the original paint finish.
If I use a chemical paint stripper (Dichloromethane and Methanol) I will
probably remove both layers.

Is there anything else I can use?

Possibility #1: Check with a professional cleaning supplies firm, and
ask about "graffiti remover" spray; it's remarkably effective in
getting thin layers of spray paint of without completely destroying
what's underneath. (It will dull the gloss on the underlying paint in
the process, though; it can't be helped, I'm afraid.)

Possibility #2: A strong butyl-based degreasing cleaner applied full
strength will generally curdle spray paint and allow it to be washed
off, but it takes much longer to attack the older, factory-applied
paint below. "Power Clean" degreaser sold at Autozone stores has done
the trick for me in the past, as has Zepride-E from Zep. Both have
successfully removed spray-can graffiti from car finishes; a little
waxing afterwards restored the gloss fairly well. Left on for too
long, the underlying paint will succumb as well; caution must be used.

Possibility #3: Solvent. Experimentation will be needed, but I'd try
acetone first. I use that to remove tagging from the stop sign on the
corner every couple of months. (It's never there for more than a few
hours; I won't let it persist.) Once again, it will attack the
underlying paint to some degree, but it may do the job if used with
care.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Werehatrack said:

Possibility #1: Check with a professional cleaning supplies firm, and
ask about "graffiti remover" spray; it's remarkably effective in
getting thin layers of spray paint of without completely destroying
what's underneath. (It will dull the gloss on the underlying paint in
the process, though; it can't be helped, I'm afraid.)

Possibility #2: A strong butyl-based degreasing cleaner applied full
strength will generally curdle spray paint and allow it to be washed
off, but it takes much longer to attack the older, factory-applied
paint below. "Power Clean" degreaser sold at Autozone stores has done
the trick for me in the past, as has Zepride-E from Zep. Both have
successfully removed spray-can graffiti from car finishes; a little
waxing afterwards restored the gloss fairly well. Left on for too
long, the underlying paint will succumb as well; caution must be used.

Possibility #3: Solvent. Experimentation will be needed, but I'd try
acetone first. I use that to remove tagging from the stop sign on the
corner every couple of months. (It's never there for more than a few
hours; I won't let it persist.) Once again, it will attack the
underlying paint to some degree, but it may do the job if used with
care.

Lot's of good ideas... test in a "hidden area" with all of these.

I keep a variety of solvents around and one or the other seems to
dissolve what I want in any particular situation: wood alcohol; paint
thinner (mineral spirits); lacquer thinner; acetone.

There is also a product used in auto body shops that is used to clean
up paint (remove anything but original paint) before painting. It's
usually called something clever like "pre-clean". Nice solvent, any
auto parts store shop should have it. In addition, you can get
"enamel reducer" at the same store - it's "paint thinner" for auto
finishes. Use terry rags, toothbrushes, etc.

Once you get it off, you should use some *light* auto finishing
techniques - a clay bar can remove a lot of stuff. Start with very
fine compounds around 2200 grit, drop to a 1500 if you need it. Try to
avoid dropping down to polishing or rubbing compounds which are
400-600 grit - they are very aggressive.

I think the decals will be the most challenging part unless they are
clear coated over.

I have often found that WD 40 seemed to dissolved spray can paint,
although I've not tried using it on a large area.

Lewis.

*****