Would there be any potential problem with switching out a threadless
headset and stem to a threaded headset and quill stem? Are headtubes
made differently to accomodate either system?
Thanks.
JP
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Would there be any potential problem with switching out a threadless
headset and stem to a threaded headset and quill stem? Are headtubes
made differently to accomodate either system?
Thanks.
JP
jp_nyc said:Would there be any potential problem with switching out a threadless
headset and stem to a threaded headset and quill stem? Are headtubes
made differently to accomodate either system?
As long as the frame isn't equipped with an integrated headset, and
you're replacing the fork with one that has the same diameter (and an
appropriate length) of threaded steerer as the threadless that's being
removed, it should work.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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In article <[email hidden]>,
jp_nyc said:Would there be any potential problem with switching out a threadless
headset and stem to a threaded headset and quill stem? Are headtubes
made differently to accomodate either system?
Provided you don't have an internal/integral headset, the headtube is
not a factor. But, do you realize that the fork steerer must also be
threaded to accommodate a threaded headset? So, in order to effect the
swap you'll need at least a threaded headset, a quill stem, AND a
threaded fork.
A worst case scenario would involve replacing your handlebars; but
that's if your current set features an OS clamp width (31.8mm).
Sheldon Brown's glossary will offer insight:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#headset
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html#threaded
Luke
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 23:45:06 -0500, Luke <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:A worst case scenario would involve replacing your handlebars; but
that's if your current set features an OS clamp width (31.8mm).
I've discovered a way around this, although it would be exceptionally
silly in this instance. A 31.8 bar can be fitted to a threaded
steerer by using a threadless stem and one of the threadless quills
available from various sources. The Nashbar quill even comes with a
bushing to allow it to be used with either a 1" or a 1 1/8" threaded
steerer.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
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jp_nyc said:Would there be any potential problem with switching out a threadless
headset and stem to a threaded headset and quill stem? Are headtubes
made differently to accomodate either system?
That's a common swap for touring or 'sport' bikes with older
owners. Adding a Technomic can bring the bars up to ( or
over) saddle height.
For 1" BSC , a fork, headset and stem plus probably cables
and tape.
There being few 1-1/8" OS threaded road forks, the usual
path is as above plus a set of aluminum sleeves to allow
standard equipment in the larger frame.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
In article <[email hidden]>, Werehatrack
Quoted message said:On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 23:45:06 -0500, Luke <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:A worst case scenario would involve replacing your handlebars; but
that's if your current set features an OS clamp width (31.8mm).I've discovered a way around this, although it would be exceptionally
silly in this instance. A 31.8 bar can be fitted to a threaded
steerer by using a threadless stem and one of the threadless quills
available from various sources. The Nashbar quill even comes with a
bushing to allow it to be used with either a 1" or a 1 1/8" threaded
steerer.
I realize you're not in any way recommending this, but just the same,
let's see if I follow. Once the threaded headset/fork has been
installed, a threaded to threadless adaptor[1] is used to facilitate
fitting a threadless stem with an OS clamp?
If I ever see such a setup, I'll take it for one of the seven signs!
Luke
To be more specific, I'd like to replace the threadless system
currently on the Bianchi Pista. The handlebar is 26.0, so that's no
problem. The steerer tube on the fork is steel, so I guess my next
question is, would it be possible to just add threads to the existing
steerer tube? In that case, I'd only have to replace the headset and
add a quill stem.
BTW, head tube is 1".
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 23:45:06 -0500, Luke
<[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:Quoted message said:Quoted message said:A worst case scenario would involve replacing your handlebars; but
that's if your current set features an OS clamp width (31.8mm).
Werehatrack said:Quoted message said:I've discovered a way around this, although it would be exceptionally
silly in this instance. A 31.8 bar can be fitted to a threaded
steerer by using a threadless stem and one of the threadless quills
available from various sources. The Nashbar quill even comes with a
bushing to allow it to be used with either a 1" or a 1 1/8" threaded
steerer.
Luke said:I realize you're not in any way recommending this, but just the same,
let's see if I follow. Once the threaded headset/fork has been
installed, a threaded to threadless adaptor[1] is used to facilitate
fitting a threadless stem with an OS clamp?
If I ever see such a setup, I'll take it for one of the seven signs!
1.
lickbike.comproductpage.aspxOpen ↗
I learn the darndest things listening to customers. For
example that all might seem logical to the large group who
believe only threadless stems have faceplates.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
jp_nyc said:To be more specific, I'd like to replace the threadless system
currently on the Bianchi Pista. The handlebar is 26.0, so that's no
problem. The steerer tube on the fork is steel, so I guess my next
question is, would it be possible to just add threads to the existing
steerer tube? In that case, I'd only have to replace the headset and
add a quill stem.
Not sure what you're trying to do, but you can use a quill stem with a
threadless headset, you just insert a quill stem (of proper diameter)
into the threadless steer tube. You need some kind of collar to replace
the threadless stem, and you need some way of setting the preload. A
collar like that of a cantilever hanger will work. To set preload, you
can (after driving the star nut down the steerer) use a long bolt on the
top cap, then (after locking the collar) remove the top cap to insert
the quill stem.
jp_nyc said:To be more specific, I'd like to replace the threadless system
currently on the Bianchi Pista. The handlebar is 26.0, so that's no
problem. The steerer tube on the fork is steel, so I guess my next
question is, would it be possible to just add threads to the existing
steerer tube? In that case, I'd only have to replace the headset and
add a quill stem.
Sometimes threading a blank steerer tube is possible. First, check to
make sure that the ID of the steerer is adequate to allow the
installation of a quill stem. Then comes the task of locating a shop
that's both competent and equipped to cut the threads; merely
possessing a die and stock is not proof that the job can or will be
done correctly. There is, however, a third option that may be useful
if you aren't doing this for the purpose of lowering the bars. The
option is simple. Don't thread the tube. Get a seatpost clamp of the
appropriate diameter, ream the ridge out of it, and install it in
place of the existing stem. (Use two if you're really paranoid.)
Then knock the starfangled nut out the bottom of the tube and install
your quill stem. Pay attention to the fact that the min depth mark
should be relocated; the min depth line needs to end up about 10mm
above the top of the upper headset bearing to ensure that the wedge
is deep enough inside the tube. As a result, you won't have as much
vertical adjustment range as you'd have had with the shorter tube.
This tactic has been used more than once, and it has the added benefit
of being reversible; if you later decide to convert back to the
original threadless stem, you'll only need to install a new
starfangled nut to get back where you were. You can check to see if
it's useful by just holding your quill next to the steerer as-is; if
the quill is possible to insert into the present steerer tube deep
enough to put the min insertion line at or below 10mm above the top of
the upper bearing, the tactic can work. If the resulting range of
possible bar heights is useful, then this is the method that I'd
personally prefer to employ.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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