Spring clean

elyob said:

Firstly, my derailleur seized up on the large sprocket. I noticed it was
prety tough trying to get it up there, and it wouldn't go back down. A bit
of history, my bike was left a little mucky after my last ride. Not
terrible, but I feel a little guilty.

So, I'm going to replace all the cables (need doing anyway), and clean all
the gearing etc. Shall I just take the old ones off, label them and take
them in the LBS? Or wlil they know the lengths I need?

I expect they'll use standard length cables (much longer than you need)
and cut them down to size. Or they'll sell you standard length cables
and you can cut them down to size yourself, if you're planning to do the
job yourself, in which case you'll want one of these:
<URL:http://wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=ProductDetail.aspx&W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=&ProdID=5360011237&UberCat=0>

If it's that bad, it's probably worth replacing the cable housing at the
same time. I've no idea whether an LBS would do that by default, as
I've always replaced my own cables.

I replaced the cable housing for my rear gear cable last weekend (I've
been putting it off for a couple of years, because it's a PITA to do on
the Street Machine) and my gears now shift like a dream. Of course, I
changed the cable and gave the derailleur a really good clean while I
was at it.

The old housing turned out to be rusty inside. For the last few months
I'd had trouble using the smallest sprockets because the derailleur
spring wasn't strong enough to drag the cable through the housing. I'd
had trouble using the biggest sprockets because my fingers weren't
strong enough to drag the cable through the housing. Monday morning's
ride to work was a revelation, when I went to change down a gear and
before I knew it I'd changed down 3!

On the subject of cable housing, does anyone know what the difference is
between this:
<URL:http://wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=ProductDetail.aspx&W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=&ProdID=5360011237&UberCat=0>
(Transfil Shimano Outer Brake Casing)

and this:
<URL:http://wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=ProductDetail.aspx&W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=&ProdID=5360011240&UberCat=0>
(Transfil Outer Gear Casing)

Apart from the price? I used the brake casing for my gear cable, simply
because that's what I happened to have. It works perfectly well.

--
Danny Colyer <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/danny/>
Subscribe to PlusNet <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/referral/>
"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine

"Danny Colyer" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On the subject of cable housing, does anyone know what the difference is
between this:
<URL:http://wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=ProductDetail.aspx&W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=&ProdID=5360011237&UberCat=0>
(Transfil Shimano Outer Brake Casing)

and this:
<URL:http://wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?Main=ProductDetail.aspx&W=0&Manufacturer=&UberCatName=&Cat=cycle&CategoryName=&ProdID=5360011240&UberCat=0>
(Transfil Outer Gear Casing)

Apart from the price? I used the brake casing for my gear cable, simply
because that's what I happened to have. It works perfectly well.

Oh Danny, how long have you been reading this ng? Guess where I'm going to
send you!

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#housing

cheers,
clive

Clive George said:

Oh Danny, how long have you been reading this ng? Guess where I'm going to
send you!

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#housing

Thanks Clive.

Almost certainly not worth paying the extra for the compressionless
housing, then, for the cable routing on the Street Machine.

--
Danny Colyer <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/danny/>
Subscribe to PlusNet <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/referral/>
"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine

elyob wrote:
........

Quoted message said:

So, I'm going to replace all the cables (need doing anyway), and
clean all the gearing etc. Shall I just take the old ones off, label
them and take them in the LBS? Or wlil they know the lengths I need?

Get standard long lengths (inners & outers) and cut to size. Overly long
inner cables are easier to fit and tension anyway (something to get hold
of). Maybe now's a good time to get some decent cutters if you don't have
any good ones ;-)

Quoted message said:

I have one of those SRAM chains that are supposed to be easy to take
off. I've never found them that easy, what's the technique?

Keeping it all in line, with fingers and thumbs and no tools, compress
sideways at the same time as pushing links together lengthwise, then
wiggle.

Quoted message said:

White spirit to clean the chain?

That's my favourite, in a jar.

Quoted message said:

How about the sprockets?

Just about any old solvent or degreaser on a rag or brush.

Quoted message said:

How about my SPD pedals?

Oil the springs and tension adjuster screws. Do nothing to the insides if
a model with cartridge bearings and they feel OK, otherwise /maybe/ grease
the bearings. LBS should supply suitable tools and grease.

Quoted message said:

Anything else I should do when I'm stripping the bike down?

Oil derailleur and brake pivots. Remove and service derailleur jockey
wheels. Remove, grease, refit: pedals, seatpost, stem if traditional
quill type. Service headset and hubs (if serviceable type) if you think
they're probably dirty or dry inside. Sand brake pads.

~PB

I scribbled:

Quoted message said:

elyob said:

I have one of those SRAM chains that are supposed to be easy to take
off. I've never found them that easy, what's the technique?

Keeping it all in line, with fingers and thumbs and no tools, compress
sideways at the same time as pushing links together lengthwise, then
wiggle.

Of course I'm assuming the chain has a Powerlink!

~PB

in message <[email hidden]>, elyob

(') said:

So, I'm going to replace all the cables (need doing anyway), and clean
all the gearing etc. Shall I just take the old ones off, label them and
take them in the LBS?

No.

Quoted message said:

Or wlil they know the lengths I need?

Yes - unless you've got something very exotic.

Quoted message said:

I have one of those SRAM chains that are supposed to be easy to take
off. I've never found them that easy, what's the technique?

Find the joining link. Pinch the two links adjacent to the joining link
together, so that you're slightly squeezing the joining link along its
length. Then with your other hand pinch the sideplates of the joining
link together. The pins will slide in their grooves. Now you can simply
pull the sideplates apart, et voila!

Quoted message said:

White
spirit to clean the chain?

Yes.

Quoted message said:

How about the sprockets?

Same.

Quoted message said:

How about my SPD
pedals?

Water, with a little washing up liquid, and a soft brush. Do not immerse
them or direct jets of water at them. If they've become grunchy
disassemble them, replace any damaged bearings, grease the bearings and
reassemble. Most pedals use cup-and-cone bearings like bicycle wheels
and the trick with adjusting them is pretty much the same (except
generally more fiddly) - tighten them up until you can't jiggle them
about, but no further.

Quoted message said:

Anything else I should do when I'm stripping the bike down? (I may
replace some of the rusty allen bolts too).

Check how worn the chain is, and also how worn the cassette is. If the
chain has enlongated beyond its wear limit (see
<URL:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html> replace the chain, and if
it's greatly beyond its wear limit, replace the cassette as well.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

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