dura ace 10 shifting problems and high performance cables

I would suggest removing those inline cable adjusters. They have a tendency to rattle and make minor adjustments to the cable tension.

A fresh set of normal cables, along with new housings (if you want to get rid of those inline adjusters you'll need them) should work wonders. You don't need fancy cables.

After the initial stretch of standard cables once they're installed (a few hundred k's at most), they shouldn't adjust any more and shifting should be perfect and trouble-free. If you're the impatient sort you can even buy pre-stretched standard style cables.

IMO cables and housings are the one best improvement-for-buck form of long term maintenance you can do. Perfect shifting makes the bike feel so much nicer.

I have the inline cable adjuster on my front DR only. I noticed though that it doesn't keep it's adjustment, which is not really a problem on the front DR. I could imagine though if there was one installed on my rear DR that it would cause problems.

jongchen said:

Please pardon if this has been covered already. I have dura ace 10 installed on my bike. I have those inline cable adjusters installed. I'm finding it very difficult to keep my rear derailurer in tune. I have to adjust it after almost every ride or I get double shifting and no shifting problems. The bike shop stays it's fine and I just need to tweak the adjustments. Would having those high performace (kevlar) cables advertised as slippier, no streatch, lighter etc. help with the shifting problems? The stuff is pretty expensive and I hate to get them installed and have them make no difference.

Have you checked if the cable is anchored to the RD real tight? - it could be slipping.

The inline cable adjusters should aid in tweaking shifting and not cause the problem. If you suspect that the cabling is stretching (or housing compressing) then invest on the extra quality cables - you're already using Dura Ace 10 so get the cables up to class! Jagwire kevlar reinforced cables don't cost that much and you can buy them on per meter (or per foot) basis.

rek said:

I would suggest removing those inline cable adjusters. They have a tendency to rattle and make minor adjustments to the cable tension.

A fresh set of normal cables, along with new housings (if you want to get rid of those inline adjusters you'll need them) should work wonders. You don't need fancy cables.

After the initial stretch of standard cables once they're installed (a few hundred k's at most), they shouldn't adjust any more and shifting should be perfect and trouble-free. If you're the impatient sort you can even buy pre-stretched standard style cables.

IMO cables and housings are the one best improvement-for-buck form of long term maintenance you can do. Perfect shifting makes the bike feel so much nicer.

REK, good post. My experience echoes yours: after an initial "break-in" period, standard Shimano cables are working fine for thousands of miles without adjustments. In fact, my bike has no inline or downtube micro-adjusters at all. When I asked the builder why he didn't include them, he said it was just extra hardware that wasn't needed. After 9000 miles with just the one "break-in" adjustment, have to agree.

dhk said:

REK, good post. My experience echoes yours: after an initial "break-in" period, standard Shimano cables are working fine for thousands of miles without adjustments. In fact, my bike has no inline or downtube micro-adjusters at all. When I asked the builder why he didn't include them, he said it was just extra hardware that wasn't needed. After 9000 miles with just the one "break-in" adjustment, have to agree.

More sh$t,more problems. Plain old Shimano cables have always worked fine for me.

shokhead said:

More sh$t,more problems. Plain old Shimano cables have always worked fine for me.

Dont have any problems either whether its a $20 cableset or a $200 cable set or whether its a Shimano, Campy, Avid, Nokon or a generic china made. There's a difference in quality but they all work fine - no problems whatsoever. Says a lot on the 'mechanics' in all of us.

hd reynolds said:

Dont have any problems either whether its a $20 cableset or a $200 cable set or whether its a Shimano, Campy, Avid, Nokon or a generic china made. There's a difference in quality but they all work fine - no problems whatsoever. Says a lot on the 'mechanics' in all of us.

I wonder is a $200 cable set makes someone faster same as washing your car makes you faster? LOL

shokhead said:

I wonder is a $200 cable set makes someone faster same as washing your car makes you faster? LOL

I dont think so... maybe spread the word to the pro peloton so they can all use generic china made cables eh?

Its cool for some who buy it.

I have seen some "performance" cable that was instead made out of some kind of composite. Think of the weight savings compared to normal steel cables! (I'm not making this up. That was their sales pitch)

Generic cables + Shimano housing works for me.

rek said:

I have seen some "performance" cable that was instead made out of some kind of composite. Think of the weight savings compared to normal steel cables! (I'm not making this up. That was their sales pitch)

Generic cables + Shimano housing works for me.

Sounds expensive but probably no more effective than teflon coated cables which are expensive too but you can feel the difference.

hd reynolds said:

I dont think so... maybe spread the word to the pro peloton so they can all use generic china made cables eh?

Its cool for some who buy it.

I wasnt aware we were talking about a pro peloton,were we?

shokhead said:

I wasnt aware we were talking about a pro peloton,were we?

The point is - u were wondering if a $200 cable will make you any faster then what's the use of anyone, even the pro peloton in using expensive cables?

The answer to that my dear watson is because I can afford it - not that it will make me any faster.

hd reynolds said:

The point is - u were wondering if a $200 cable will make you any faster then what's the use of anyone, even the pro peloton in using expensive cables?

The answer to that my dear watson is because I can afford it - not that it will make me any faster.

Then you have money to use as a$$ wipe,your lucky.

shokhead said:

Then you have money to use as a$$ wipe,your lucky.

Where do losers like you come from?

Your problem is most definitely the little inline adjusters. I have them too and they need to be tweaked just about every ride. Vibrations make them shorten slowly. I don't consider it a big hassle and so haven't bothered to remove them.
If you are going to replace them, you only need to replace the cable sheath sections abutting the adjuster, not the others further down the cable.
Even more simply, you could just turn them all the way down to the shortest length and then adjust the barrel on the RD. Once they are fully shortened, they can't creep any more. This option would save some work!