Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Hub problem with trainer

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Cycling Equipment
Published
11 February 2006
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19 February 2006
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  1. I need some help from those familiar with trainers and rear hubs...

    On two occasions (different wheels, on different bikes) the nut on the
    drive side has come loose after using the trainer. I can only conclude
    that I'm putting too much pressure in tightening the trainer onto the
    rear wheel's QR. (not the same as too much pressure when tightening the
    QR).

    So I have two questions, preferably for those who've used trainers and
    work on hubs:

    1) How do I tighten my Record hub whose nut is loose? It's the nut
    that's almost flush with the cassette lockring - it stands just proud
    of the lockring to grip the inside of the frame dropout. I'm generally
    afraid to work with hubs cause I never know if it's too tight or not.
    I've read about it needing to be just shy so that with the QR pressure,
    there'll be no play, but without someone to physically show you, it's
    hard to learn thru just reading. Anyway, do I just take the cassette
    off and tighten nut, or do I need to be conscious of tightening two
    nuts against each other?

    2) I tighten the trainer until the bike can't rock easily and try not
    to overtighten (given my first loosening experience) but it seems I've
    done it again. Anyone has any advice? My model is a Minour R500 (or
    something close) with magnetic resistance, but the clamping mechanism
    must be similar between all the trainers? Please help so I don't have
    to go back to my rollers where I can't see the TV (watching Giro 2001).
    (Please no comment on the rollers - I love'em and will keep doing them,
    but also like the ease of trainer + TV)

    I've googled and the only relevant/recent message was:
    http://tinyurl.com/74tye
    where the user ended up having a pitted hub and others said it wasn't
    the trainer, but I think it was. If I kept riding my rear hub where the
    nut was loose, wouldn't that have allowed play to form in the hub
    directly leading to pitted bearings/surfaces?

    Josh

  2. Quoted message said:

    I need some help from those familiar with trainers and rear hubs...

    On two occasions (different wheels, on different bikes) the nut on the
    drive side has come loose after using the trainer. I can only conclude
    that I'm putting too much pressure in tightening the trainer onto the
    rear wheel's QR. (not the same as too much pressure when tightening the
    QR).

    So I have two questions, preferably for those who've used trainers and
    work on hubs:

    1) How do I tighten my Record hub whose nut is loose? It's the nut
    that's almost flush with the cassette lockring - it stands just proud
    of the lockring to grip the inside of the frame dropout.

    That nut can be made tight; there's no "adjustment" on that side. The
    cassette body on Record cassette hubs has sealed cartridge bearings
    with a spacer between, so the spacer sets the bearing adjutment, not
    the nut. By the way I I think it's left hand thread, so pay attention
    to which way it tightens.

    Quoted message said:

    I've read about it needing to be just shy so that with the QR pressure,
    there'll be no play, but without someone to physically show you, it's
    hard to learn thru just reading.

    That's for the bearings in your hub's body (not in the casette body).
    Their adjustment is done from the hub's left side.

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, do I just take the cassette
    off and tighten nut, or do I need to be conscious of tightening two
    nuts against each other?

    Just tighten the right side nut.

    Campagnolo has exploded diagrams in PDF that might help. Here's the
    page:
    http://www.campagnolo.com/techinfo.php?did=c&sec=srv

    This one has hubs:
    http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/spares05_B.pdf

    Quoted message said:

    2) I tighten the trainer until the bike can't rock easily and try not
    to overtighten (given my first loosening experience) but it seems I've
    done it again. Anyone has any advice? My model is a Minour R500 (or
    something close) with magnetic resistance, but the clamping mechanism
    must be similar between all the trainers? Please help so I don't have
    to go back to my rollers where I can't see the TV (watching Giro 2001).
    (Please no comment on the rollers - I love'em and will keep doing them,
    but also like the ease of trainer + TV)

    I'm not sure how the trainer could be at fault; the Minoura frames are
    a little more flexible than some, so tightening it (even very tight)
    seems like it wouldn't add much force across the QR. Maybe the rocking
    motion allows some repetitive slipping that contributes to the nut
    loosening? But I doubt it.

  3. Thanks Dianne, I overhauled the hubs thanks to your links & info. Still
    don't know the root cause, though.

  4. Quoted message said:

    I need some help from those familiar with trainers and rear hubs...

    On two occasions (different wheels, on different bikes) the nut on the
    drive side has come loose after using the trainer. I can only conclude
    that I'm putting too much pressure in tightening the trainer onto the
    rear wheel's QR. (not the same as too much pressure when tightening the
    QR).

    So I have two questions, preferably for those who've used trainers and
    work on hubs:

    1) How do I tighten my Record hub whose nut is loose? It's the nut
    that's almost flush with the cassette lockring - it stands just proud
    of the lockring to grip the inside of the frame dropout. I'm generally
    afraid to work with hubs cause I never know if it's too tight or not.
    I've read about it needing to be just shy so that with the QR pressure,
    there'll be no play, but without someone to physically show you, it's
    hard to learn thru just reading. Anyway, do I just take the cassette
    off and tighten nut, or do I need to be conscious of tightening two
    nuts against each other?

    Cassette off and a 17mm open end wrench and it is LEFT THREADED as you
    will see on the thing via the arrow. Put a 5mm allen in the elft side
    and tighten the right side.

    Quoted message said:


    2) I tighten the trainer until the bike can't rock easily and try not
    to overtighten (given my first loosening experience) but it seems I've
    done it again. Anyone has any advice? My model is a Minour R500 (or
    something close) with magnetic resistance, but the clamping mechanism
    must be similar between all the trainers? Please help so I don't have
    to go back to my rollers where I can't see the TV (watching Giro 2001).
    (Please no comment on the rollers - I love'em and will keep doing them,
    but also like the ease of trainer + TV)

    I've googled and the only relevant/recent message was:
    http://tinyurl.com/74tye
    where the user ended up having a pitted hub and others said it wasn't
    the trainer, but I think it was. If I kept riding my rear hub where the
    nut was loose, wouldn't that have allowed play to form in the hub
    directly leading to pitted bearings/surfaces?

    Josh

    I would swap the QR with a cheapo one and then not make the trainer so
    tight. make sure the rear hub is adjusted well also.

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