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Height adjust bars/stem

Started by OldNickToo · · Last activity · 8 posts · 1,970 views

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01 / Original postHeight adjust bars/stemOldNickToo · 31 Jan 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–8Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #8OldNickToo · 1 Feb 2006

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Mountain Bikes
Published
31 January 2006
Last activity
1 February 2006
Original author
OldNickToo
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8
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Public discussion
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Bike fitSaddle height

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  1. Original post
    OldNickToo
    Archived post
    #1

    What am I looking for, to allow me to attach an adjustable height (shimmed. threaded, sliding with grabber) handlebar height to my Yukon?

    I have a Giant Yukon, which I have now ridden every day for a couple of montths under varying toughish conditions (gravel, trails <2' wide with rocks and logs, scrub, uphill, downhilll, potholes, road) and at faster and faster speed over these conditions as I gain confidence in my old skills.

    I used to ride a lot when younger. Mostly road as an adult, but as a teen I did a lot of mucking about on tracks, jumps over dirt, riding old bikes off the end of jetties etc.

    Now I am 50. I have rediscovered bikes. I have 150 acres of "hard ground" bush and narrow trails, that are really walk trails, but I drag my poor sorry bum over them for the heck of it.

    OK. I am loving it. But ....As I get more back into the bike, I have raised the saddle from "just tippy toes" to "painful on the whatsits" just tippy toes height. This is the correct height for "real" pedalling, although if I hit some downhills or need to dab a few times and fall off instead it, comes down again, in the interests of self-preservation <G>.

    What all this means is that I am experimenting with the bike geometry.

    The Yukon has no way that I can see of raising the handlebars/stem. As I have gradually gained confidence, and gone for pedal power over lack of balance skills and confidence, with the higher saddle, I am finding that I would feel, as an old fart, more comfortable with a slightly raised handlebar position. This has been commented on in several places as a common problem for old(er) spines.

    No go, AFAICS, with the Yukon..

    So I start looking at possible adjustments. The obvious choice is riser bars. But these are fixed. I want to muck about. ....but then I see threaded...."Ahead"... non-threaded...."stem" with posts..."stems" with no posts.....errrk>

    So I say again. What sort of options are open to me?

    Any help appreciated

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  2. gclark8
    Archived post
    #2

    I got a 1" 110x110mm adjustable stem for my TRY bike from BiCorp. They have 1&1/8 as well. See Guildford Cycles, he had one is stock last time I looked.

    http://www.bicorp.com.au/home.aspx Type in "HSADJ110" for a pix.

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  3. triguy98
    Archived post
    #3

    The "tippy toes" method is a really crude, ineffective way of measuring saddle height. The optimal height for your saddle will allow the ball of your foot to be on the pedal with the crank in the 6 o clock position and allow you heel to be slightly below the ball of your foot. You should not be pedaling with your toes pointed, your foot should be flat throughout the stroke.

    With your saddle in this position, you shouldnt have to raise your bars. If you want to experiment with geomoetry, mosey on down to your LBS and explain, they should be happy to help you out.

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  4. OldNickToo
    Archived post
    #4
    triguy98 said:

    The "tippy toes" method is a really crude, ineffective way of measuring saddle height. The optimal height for your saddle will allow the ball of your foot to be on the pedal with the crank in the 6 o clock position and allow you heel to be slightly below the ball of your foot. You should not be pedaling with your toes pointed, your foot should be flat throughout the stroke.

    With your saddle in this position, you shouldnt have to raise your bars. If you want to experiment with geomoetry, mosey on down to your LBS and explain, they should be happy to help you out.


    Thanks for the reply.

    Yeah. I think the "can't touch the ground" idea seems to come from road bikes more. I went for a ride last night with the saddle way up, and soon dropped the saddle 1/2-3/4". I will check out the placement of my foot as you suggest.

    I will admit I was probably toes down at the 6 o'clock position. I certainly didn't realise the heel should maybe be _below_ the toe, or flat, at 6 oclock.

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  5. OldNickToo
    Archived post
    #5
    gclark8 said:

    I got a 1" 110x110mm adjustable stem for my TRY bike from BiCorp. They have 1&1/8 as well. See Guildford Cycles, he had one is stock last time I looked.

    bicorp.com.auhome.aspx Type in "HSADJ110" for a pix.


    So that's a "Quill stem"? Looked expensive :-<

    What is a TRY bike, BTW?

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  6. gclark8
    Archived post
    #6

    Yes, threaded quill type stem, mine was in the low $30s.

    I just looked up the Yukon, it has 1&1/8 threadless steerer. To get the desired result, you may have to use a stem raiser and an adjustable stem. Go to the BiCorp page again and try "ZHU2" and "ASOSADJ110". A little more expensive than a quill system.

    A TRY bike is a Triathlon bike set up for under 14s or over 55s, it has lots of go gear from the waist down and comfort gear from the waist up. Not meant for serious competition, just lots of fun. 😄

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  7. OldNickToo
    Archived post
    #7
    gclark8 said:

    Yes, threaded quill type stem, mine was in the low $30s.

    I just looked up the Yukon, it has 1&1/8 threadless steerer. To get the desired result, you may have to use a stem raiser and an adjustable stem. Go to the BiCorp page again and try "ZHU2" and "ASOSADJ110". A little more expensive than a quill system.

    A TRY bike is a Triathlon bike set up for under 14s or over 55s, it has lots of go gear from the waist down and comfort gear from the waist up. Not meant for serious competition, just lots of fun. 😄


    Thank you

    I was a skillful biker as a younker. I never raced seriously, but did some really silly stuff, way before BMX was "de rigueur". Heavy bikes, 3-speed if you were lucky. No limits, but we were _young_) then! <G>. Specialised bikes were what the "skid kids" used over at the speedway. Big front wheel, small back wheel. Braking consisted of doing a 180 by lifting the back wheel off the surface.....aaahhh memories.

    I also rode motorbikes for many years. But the Techo side of things has changed so much, for the "average Joe" pushbiker. In my day only mad racers worried about derailleurs and cromo frames. If you couldn't do something, you either pedalled harder or fell off! <G>

    Learning all the time...<G>

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  8. OldNickToo
    Archived post
    #8
    triguy98 said:

    The "tippy toes" method is a really crude, ineffective way of measuring saddle height.


    Funny, As I m ake saddle changs I mark them. Having got all excited and read up on the Web and seen that, really, I "should not be able to stand on the bike with bot feet on the ground at all, with my bum on the saddle", I raised the saddle and had many discomforts.

    Having taken your advice, I find that the seat height was pretty much what I was comfortable with on the first place.....<G> certainly within 1/4".

    Better back, better ride, able to "dab" when I do something silly.

    So thanks for the reality check.

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