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BB Chasing Tap

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Cycling Equipment
Published
6 January 2006
Last activity
8 January 2006
Original author
monkeyboy
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  1. Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank

  2. monkeyboy said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank


    Cyclus

    --
    ---
    Marten Gerritsen

    INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
    www.m-gineering.nl

  3. Quoted message said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank

    Frank: Even cleaning up existing threads requires a pretty nice tool to do
    the job right. But if this is just an attempt to salvage a cheap frame, and
    you can't bring it to a shop to have them clean the threads for you (which
    would cost a lot less than a cheap chasing tap), you could try to make your
    own. Just use an old bottom bracket, hacksaw some cuts across the threads
    (not quite perpendicular) and give it a try.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  4. monkeyboy said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank

    biketoolsetc.com has some Hozan chasers:

    http://tinyurl.com/dquxe

    Not "cheap" but less expensive than others. Caution! Where it says RH
    and LH on each one it doesn't mean "use on left hand side" or "use on
    right hand side", it means "right handed threads, left handed threads"
    (Gee, how do suppose I know that now...)

    Joseph

  5. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank

    Frank: Even cleaning up existing threads requires a pretty nice tool to do
    the job right. But if this is just an attempt to salvage a cheap frame, and
    you can't bring it to a shop to have them clean the threads for you (which
    would cost a lot less than a cheap chasing tap), you could try to make your
    own. Just use an old bottom bracket, hacksaw some cuts across the threads
    (not quite perpendicular) and give it a try.

    Sounds like a neat idea, but aren't steel BB cups hardened? Or is the
    hardening somehow localized to the bearing surfaces so that it doesn't
    extend to the threaded part of the cup?

    A carbide(?) rod saw would do it, but I think a hacksaw might not "cut it".

    Mark

  6. Looks like I'll have to take it to a shop. I couldn't believe the price
    of a BB tap...jeeesss.

    I did find a thread restoring tool in McMaster Carr that would be just
    the ticket, but it would cost around $50 for the tool and die set.

    It looks like who ever initially installed the BB didn't lube it at
    all. I had to take it out with a hammer, and now the threads are packed
    with aluminum from the old BB shell. I tried using a pick to dig it
    out, but it's really packed in there.

    Mark Janeba said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank

    Frank: Even cleaning up existing threads requires a pretty nice tool to do
    the job right. But if this is just an attempt to salvage a cheap frame, and
    you can't bring it to a shop to have them clean the threads for you (which
    would cost a lot less than a cheap chasing tap), you could try to make your
    own. Just use an old bottom bracket, hacksaw some cuts across the threads
    (not quite perpendicular) and give it a try.

    Sounds like a neat idea, but aren't steel BB cups hardened? Or is the
    hardening somehow localized to the bearing surfaces so that it doesn't
    extend to the threaded part of the cup?

    A carbide(?) rod saw would do it, but I think a hacksaw might not "cut it".

    Mark

  7. Hozan makes one and a complete LBS may have one
    or a complete set of BB taps

  8. M-gineering said:
    monkeyboy said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Thanks

    Frank


    Cyclus

    Just another vote for the Cyclus. Nice home shop tool at a fair price.

  9. Quoted message said:

    Hozan makes one and a complete LBS may have one
    or a complete set of BB taps

    biketoolsetc.com has them it you can't find locally.

    Joseph

  10. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Frank: Even cleaning up existing threads requires a pretty nice tool to
    do the job right. But if this is just an attempt to salvage a cheap
    frame, and you can't bring it to a shop to have them clean the threads
    for you (which would cost a lot less than a cheap chasing tap), you could
    try to make your own. Just use an old bottom bracket, hacksaw some cuts
    across the threads (not quite perpendicular) and give it a try.

    Sounds like a neat idea, but aren't steel BB cups hardened? Or is the
    hardening somehow localized to the bearing surfaces so that it doesn't
    extend to the threaded part of the cup?

    A carbide(?) rod saw would do it, but I think a hacksaw might not "cut
    it".

    Mark

    Inexpensive bottom brackets aren't anything to write home about; the threads
    can be cut fairly easily. Perhaps not with a hacksaw though; I believe I've
    done it with a file or dremel tool way, way, WAY back in the day. I
    certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw at my disposal though!

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

  11. "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote: (clip)I certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw
    at my disposal though
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    The harder the threads are, the better the "fake" tap will work, provided
    you can cut the slots. If you are talking about the kind of carbide rod saw
    I am thinking of, I doubt it will work. Are you thinking of one of those
    round hack-saw blades with carbide bits embedded along the length? Due to
    the fact that it is round, it will make a "cove," rather than a
    straight-sided slot, and the chances are it would not cut very well. An
    abrasive disk in a Dremel would be your best bet.

  12. "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote: (clip)I certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw
    at my disposal though
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    The harder the threads are, the better the "fake" tap will work, provided
    you can cut the slots. If you are talking about the kind of carbide rod
    saw I am thinking of, I doubt it will work. Are you thinking of one of
    those round hack-saw blades with carbide bits embedded along the length?
    Due to the fact that it is round, it will make a "cove," rather than a
    straight-sided slot, and the chances are it would not cut very well. An
    abrasive disk in a Dremel would be your best bet.

    What is a "fake" tap?
    -tom

  13. Tom Nakashima said:

    "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote: (clip)I certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw
    at my disposal though
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    The harder the threads are, the better the "fake" tap will work, provided
    you can cut the slots. If you are talking about the kind of carbide rod
    saw I am thinking of, I doubt it will work. Are you thinking of one of
    those round hack-saw blades with carbide bits embedded along the length?
    Due to the fact that it is round, it will make a "cove," rather than a
    straight-sided slot, and the chances are it would not cut very well. An
    abrasive disk in a Dremel would be your best bet.

    What is a "fake" tap?
    -tom

    What Mike J. just described above, John

  14. Tom Nakashima said:

    "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote: (clip)I certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw
    at my disposal though
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    The harder the threads are, the better the "fake" tap will work, provided
    you can cut the slots. If you are talking about the kind of carbide rod
    saw I am thinking of, I doubt it will work. Are you thinking of one of
    those round hack-saw blades with carbide bits embedded along the length?
    Due to the fact that it is round, it will make a "cove," rather than a
    straight-sided slot, and the chances are it would not cut very well. An
    abrasive disk in a Dremel would be your best bet.

    What is a "fake" tap?
    -tom

    What Mike J. just described above, John

  15. Quoted message said:

    What is a "fake" tap?
    -tom

    A "fake" tap is one you make yourself, by cutting slots into a bolt that
    threads into the hole.

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com

    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
    "Tom Nakashima" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote: (clip)I certainly didn't have a carbide rod
    saw at my disposal though
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    The harder the threads are, the better the "fake" tap will work, provided
    you can cut the slots. If you are talking about the kind of carbide rod
    saw I am thinking of, I doubt it will work. Are you thinking of one of
    those round hack-saw blades with carbide bits embedded along the length?
    Due to the fact that it is round, it will make a "cove," rather than a
    straight-sided slot, and the chances are it would not cut very well. An
    abrasive disk in a Dremel would be your best bet.

    What is a "fake" tap?
    -tom

  16. Mike J. said:

    Inexpensive bottom brackets aren't anything to write home about; the threads
    can be cut fairly easily. Perhaps not with a hacksaw though; I believe I've
    done it with a file or dremel tool way, way, WAY back in the day. I
    certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw at my disposal though!


    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    Hi Mike & all
    I've never understood;
    1. How a rigid or guided BB Tap such as a Campy or Park BTS 1, can
    correct existing threads w/o cutting into them, there by reducing the
    amount of material in the "V"s of the threads, causing either slop in
    the threads and / or a weakening of the threads.
    2. In this day & age of outboard BB bearings & cartage bearing BBs,
    Facing seems more important. The steel exterior of the cartridge seems
    to me like it would mitigate against minor thread misalignment and the
    outside bearing housing should be butted against the BB face causing
    the housing to align w/ a true BB face. Don't get me wrong, I would
    love to use & own a BB tap & facer. It's just when I think carefully
    about the taping function, I wonder.
    Please be so kind as to explain the errors in my thinking.

    Thanks, John

  17. Quoted message said:

    I've never understood;
    1. How a rigid or guided BB Tap such as a Campy or Park BTS 1, can
    correct existing threads w/o cutting into them, there by reducing the
    amount of material in the "V"s of the threads, causing either slop in
    the threads and / or a weakening of the threads.

    I've wondered about that one too, but apparently you can in fact re-shape
    the metal somewhat, without removing much. A severly cross-threaded bottom
    bracket will require more extensive work though; back in the day we used to
    braze some material into the threads and then run the taps. Obviously, this
    destroys the paint in the area, and also runs the risk of damaging the frame
    from excessive heat if you're not careful.

    Quoted message said:

    2. In this day & age of outboard BB bearings & cartage bearing BBs,
    Facing seems more important. The steel exterior of the cartridge seems
    to me like it would mitigate against minor thread misalignment and the
    outside bearing housing should be butted against the BB face causing
    the housing to align w/ a true BB face.

    Facing bottom brackets isn't such an issue anymore for most new frames; when
    they're built at the factory, they're threaded and faced at the same time.

    Quoted message said:

    Don't get me wrong, I would
    love to use & own a BB tap & facer. It's just when I think carefully
    about the taping function, I wonder.
    Please be so kind as to explain the errors in my thinking.

    Thanks, John

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
    "john" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Mike J. said:

    Inexpensive bottom brackets aren't anything to write home about; the
    threads
    can be cut fairly easily. Perhaps not with a hacksaw though; I believe
    I've
    done it with a file or dremel tool way, way, WAY back in the day. I
    certainly didn't have a carbide rod saw at my disposal though!


    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    Hi Mike & all
    I've never understood;
    1. How a rigid or guided BB Tap such as a Campy or Park BTS 1, can
    correct existing threads w/o cutting into them, there by reducing the
    amount of material in the "V"s of the threads, causing either slop in
    the threads and / or a weakening of the threads.
    2. In this day & age of outboard BB bearings & cartage bearing BBs,
    Facing seems more important. The steel exterior of the cartridge seems
    to me like it would mitigate against minor thread misalignment and the
    outside bearing housing should be butted against the BB face causing
    the housing to align w/ a true BB face. Don't get me wrong, I would
    love to use & own a BB tap & facer. It's just when I think carefully
    about the taping function, I wonder.
    Please be so kind as to explain the errors in my thinking.

    Thanks, John

  18. monkeyboy said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Even guys who build engines at home send out valve grinding.
    Sometimes it makes sense to have it done with first class tools.

    Although I know several sources for Campagnolo, Cobra and
    Silva taps I can't help you find cheap ones. Raleigh used
    to sell a unpiloted HKC set at a very low price- maybe an
    old Raleigh dealership near you might want to sell them?

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  19. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Frank:
    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive


    chasing tap for a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up
    existing ones.

    Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    Frank: Even cleaning up existing threads requires a pretty nice tool
    to do the job right. But if this is just an attempt to salvage a cheap
    frame, and you can't bring it to a shop to have them clean the threads
    for you (which would cost a lot less than a cheap chasing tap), you
    could try to make your own. Just use an old bottom bracket, hacksaw
    some cuts across the threads (not quite perpendicular) and give it a try.

    Mark Janeba said:

    Sounds like a neat idea, but aren't steel BB cups hardened? Or is the
    hardening somehow localized to the bearing surfaces so that it doesn't
    extend to the threaded part of the cup?

    A carbide(?) rod saw would do it, but I think a hacksaw might not "cut it".

    Yes, Miks's suggestion was clever, use a carbide-coated wire
    (any hardware store). They fit in your hacksaw frame.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  20. A Muzi said:
    monkeyboy said:

    Does anyone know where I can find an inexpensive chasing tap for a
    bottom bracket? I don't need to cut fresh treads, just clean-up

    Quoted message said:

    Although I know several sources for Campagnolo, Cobra and
    Silva taps I can't help you find cheap ones. Raleigh used
    to sell a unpiloted HKC set at a very low price- maybe an
    old Raleigh dealership near you might want to sell them?

    EDCO made a cheap unpiloted set as well. They turn up occaissionally on
    eBay.

    --

    -John ([email hidden])

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