Road Cycling · Public discussion

protecting my hands

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Road Cycling
Published
31 August 2003
Last activity
5 September 2003
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Marian Rosenber
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  1. I did not notice this happening at all on my last bicycle.

    Of course, as my last bicycle was a substantially cheaper bike I wasn't quite as likely to ride fast
    and furious. (for local values of fast and furious, usually I am going between 15 and 20 kph)

    My new bike is a Giant Athena. Don't try looking on their website, unless you read Chinese, you
    won't find any specs on it.

    When I find myself crashing through a pothole or going over railroad tracks the banging and thudding
    the handlebars do end up making my hands sore. They aren't showing bruises but they are definitely
    feeling tender.

    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to
    protect my hands?

    At the store where I got my new bike all of the bikes I saw with shocks weren't Giant or Emelle or
    any other recognizable international brand. After a year on a Chinese-made bike I wanted something a
    little sturdier.

    -M

  2. In article <[email hidden]>, Marian Rosenberg

    Quoted message said:

    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to protect
    my hands?

    No.

    Quoted message said:

    At the store where I got my new bike all of the bikes I saw with shocks weren't Giant or Emelle or
    any other recognizable international brand. After a year on a Chinese-made bike I wanted something
    a little sturdier.

    Norco's are really sturdy. Usually the stock forks (usually cheap-o RST's) suck the big one, though.
    They'll blow their tops off on the slightest rut. Marzocchi's are nice. Peel off a couple of yards
    off the paycheque for the bike and another yard for the fork, and your started, if you want
    suspension and snob appeal.

    Then there's wheels.

    I'm riding around happily on a foundling Norco Bigfoot w/ no suspension, and nondescript Araya rims
    on Weinmann hubs. She serves me well. I don't complain 'bout 'er, and she don't complain 'bout me.
    Me & my bike have an understanding. If my hands hurt, my bike hurts, too. Anthropomorphism, 'n all
    that. But it serves well as a means of developing a gentle touch for mechanical parts.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn
    [point] bc [point] ca

  3. Marian Rosenberg said:


    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to protect
    my hands?

    You could be using too much pressure on your hands all the time, which makes them sensitive, and
    then the bumps push them to a painful level.

    Excessive hand pressure can come from a set up problem, where you have too much weight leaning
    forward. A seat tilted forward can cause this. Or incorrect stem length, other fit issues.

    Some people ride with a tight grip when it isn't needed. Pay attention and see if you can relax your
    grip, arms, and shoulders. It really doesn't take much pressure to keep a bike steering where you
    want and to keep the front wheel from being pushed off-couse. Try riding with a very light grip. See
    if you can have your hands float off of the bars.

    Think of your arms as shock absorbers, not tie rods.

    When I hit potholes and bumps, I relax my grip, not tighten it. You don't want to take all of the
    impact force on your hands.

  4. Tom Keats said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Marian Rosenberg
    <[email hidden]> writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    At the store where I got my new bike all of the bikes I saw with shocks weren't Giant or Emelle or
    any other recognizable international brand. After a year on a Chinese-made bike I wanted something
    a little sturdier.

    Norco's are really sturdy. Usually the stock forks (usually cheap-o RST's) suck the big one,
    though. They'll blow their tops off on the slightest rut. Marzocchi's are nice. Peel off a couple
    of yards off the paycheque for the bike and another yard for the fork, and your started, if you
    want suspension and snob appeal.

    I'm not riding a locally-made bike. This bike cost nearly $60. For some locals this is a month's
    salary. I've already -got- snob appeal.

    My last bike was $22 and nice enough to steal.

    Basically, I don't give a damn about snob appeal. I just want a comfortable ride.

    Quoted message said:

    Then there's wheels.

    I'm riding around happily on a foundling Norco Bigfoot w/ no suspension, and nondescript Araya
    rims on Weinmann hubs. She serves me well. I don't complain 'bout 'er, and she don't complain
    'bout me. Me & my bike have an understanding. If my hands hurt, my bike hurts, too.
    Anthropomorphism, 'n all that. But it serves well as a means of developing a gentle touch for
    mechanical parts.

    Araya, Weinmann, Marzocchi, Norco ... I'll keep these names in mind for my next trip to Beijing. In
    Shijiazhuang the non-Chinese bikes or parts available are Giant and Emelle. Also some Shimano things
    at the really well stocked bike stores--the kind of places that also carry helmets. That's it.

    I try not to abuse my bicycle. But, the best places to ride in the bicycle lanes are already taken
    by other bicycles creeping along at 5 and 6 kilometers an hour. This means going over manhole
    covers, and catching the occasional pothole.

    -M

  5. Dan Daniel said:
    Marian Rosenberg said:

    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to protect
    my hands?

    You could be using too much pressure on your hands all the time, which makes them sensitive, and
    then the bumps push them to a painful level.

    Excessive hand pressure can come from a set up problem, where you have too much weight leaning
    forward. A seat tilted forward can cause this. Or incorrect stem length, other fit issues.

    How does one go about getting a bike that is a good fit?

    Quoted message said:

    Some people ride with a tight grip when it isn't needed. Pay attention and see if you can relax
    your grip, arms, and shoulders.

    Relazing definitely helps on the non bumpy fast riding conditions. I'm not too good at forcing
    relaxation but, yesterday's ride after getting a massage was almost as wonderful as the massage. I
    was kind of semi-liquid and my bike was an extension of myself.

    Quoted message said:

    It really doesn't take much pressure to keep a bike steering where you want and to keep the front
    wheel from being pushed off-couse. Try riding with a very light grip. See if you can have your
    hands float off of the bars.

    Part of why I am pariticularly noticing the pain is because I have been playing with the wonderful
    balance of my new bike and, traffic permitting, going 5 and 10 minutes at a stretch with hands
    nowhere near the handlebars.

    Quoted message said:

    Think of your arms as shock absorbers, not tie rods.

    When I hit potholes and bumps, I relax my grip, not tighten it. You don't want to take all of the
    impact force on your hands.

    Okay. I KNOW I haven't been doing this. I've been tightening my grip in expectation of the
    possibility of loss of control.

    -M

  6. Marian Rosenberg <[email hidden]> wrote in
    :"]news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    When I hit potholes and bumps, I relax my grip, not tighten it. You don't want to take all of the
    impact force on your hands.

    Okay. I KNOW I haven't been doing this. I've been tightening my grip in expectation of the
    possibility of loss of control.

    If you think the bump is going to be big enough to knock the bars from your grip then you dont want
    to keep a nice tight grip with your hands, but make sure your elbows are not locked, and are free to
    absorb the shock.

    Also get up out your saddle and move your weight back as your front wheel hits, and slide forward to
    move some weight off the back wheel as it hits the bump. keep your knees bent, so the bike moves but
    your body does not. This reduces the shock on the bike.

    Active cycling, you cannot just sit on the saddle like a sac of potatoes, er or rice 🙂

    fragg

  7. Marian Rosenberg said:
    Tom Keats said:

    In article <[email hidden]>, Marian Rosenberg
    <[email hidden]> writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    At the store where I got my new bike all of the bikes I saw with shocks weren't Giant or Emelle
    or any other recognizable international brand. After a year on a Chinese-made bike I wanted
    something a little sturdier.

    Norco's are really sturdy. Usually the stock forks (usually cheap-o RST's) suck the big one,
    though. They'll blow their tops off on the slightest rut. Marzocchi's are nice. Peel off a couple
    of yards off the paycheque for the bike and another yard for the fork, and your started, if you
    want suspension and snob appeal.

    I'm not riding a locally-made bike. This bike cost nearly $60. For some locals this is a month's
    salary. I've already -got- snob appeal.

    My last bike was $22 and nice enough to steal.

    Basically, I don't give a damn about snob appeal. I just want a comfortable ride.

    Quoted message said:

    Then there's wheels.

    I'm riding around happily on a foundling Norco Bigfoot w/ no suspension, and nondescript Araya
    rims on Weinmann hubs. She serves me well. I don't complain 'bout 'er, and she don't complain
    'bout me. Me & my bike have an understanding. If my hands hurt, my bike hurts, too.
    Anthropomorphism, 'n all that. But it serves well as a means of developing a gentle touch for
    mechanical parts.

    Araya, Weinmann, Marzocchi, Norco ... I'll keep these names in mind for my next trip to Beijing.
    In Shijiazhuang the non-Chinese bikes or parts available are Giant and Emelle. Also some Shimano
    things at the really well stocked bike stores--the kind of places that also carry helmets.
    That's it.

    I try not to abuse my bicycle. But, the best places to ride in the bicycle lanes are already taken
    by other bicycles creeping along at 5 and 6 kilometers an hour. This means going over manhole
    covers, and catching the occasional pothole.

    -M

    More profound answers from otehrs may be forthcoming, but I can somewhat relate to your situation.

    I bought a (very) cheap-o bike early this summer primarily for recreation and excercise on the
    premise that it would be 'good enough' for what I want. That premise might have held up, except that
    I have discovered that I *liked* riding and ride it much, much more than I anticipated.

    In my case, the budget bike's first repair cost as much as the bike and revealed that the front
    sprocket wheel is not true/bent. I have since bought a nice Trek, and find the idea of someone
    "stealing" the old one immensely appealing.

    In your case, the budget approach seems to indicate a bike with some sort of front suspension might
    have been a better choice. This need not be a high dollar one suitable for cycling up and down K2,
    just something to take the 'oomph' out of potholes and the like.

    My el-Cheapo bike had hard, textured plastic-like grips, which aggravated even minor road bumps as
    you describe. If this is the case on yours, you could explore replacing them with something with a
    little more 'give' in the material.

    You could also try gloves. In my case, el-Cheapo had twist shifting. Hard Plastic + Twist shifting +
    sweaty hands = Danger. Even department store type gloves (like Bell) have some padding in the palm
    which should lessen the impact. I found that athletic gloves, such as for weight lifting, had *much*
    more padding across the palm, which might appeal to you, but the palm leather was more 'grabby' on
    the handlebar grips making slight positional adjustments...different.

    If you dont like the idea of gloves (or the fashion statement it makes), you could try them just to
    measure the effect before exploring new grips, or a combo.

    Hope this helps, but YMMV

  8. Marian Rosenberg from said:

    When I find myself crashing through a pothole or going over railroad tracks the banging and
    thudding the handlebars do end up making my hands sore. They aren't showing bruises but they are
    definitely feeling tender.

    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to protect
    my hands?

    I assume you have padded gloves already. Also, don't take the force of the blow with your hands and
    arms. When you see a bump coming, relax and put your weight on your butt. Your hands and arms should
    just put enough force on the bars to maintain steering control.

    --
    home.sport.rr.comcuthulu human rights = peace a shoe rapidly feels over nerds
    3:06:45 PM 31 August 2003

  9. Sun, 31 Aug 2003 15:07:39 -0500, <[email hidden]>, Kevan Smith

    /\/\ said:

    When you see a bump coming, relax and put your weight on your butt.

    huh? Put your weight on the pedals, your legs are better shock absorbers than your spine.
    --
    zk

  10. Fraggle said:

    Active cycling, you cannot just sit on the saddle like a sac of potatoes, er or rice 🙂

    LOL! 🙂

    -M

  11. Onlooker said:

    Marian Rosenberg <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    More profound answers from otehrs may be forthcoming, but I can somewhat relate to your situation.

    I bought a (very) cheap-o bike early this summer primarily for recreation and excercise on the
    premise that it would be 'good enough' for what I want. That premise might have held up, except
    that I have discovered that I *liked* riding and ride it much, much more than I anticipated.

    This is not an el-Cheapo bicycle. It is merely a disgustingly cheap bicycle.

    el-Cheapo would be the bikes that are $10 new.

    This is China. As I'm not in Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong the price scale is astonishingly
    different from North America.

    Quoted message said:

    I have since bought a nice Trek, and find the idea of someone "stealing" the old one immensely
    appealing.

    I'm actually rather annoyed that the old one got stolen. It was a nice bike. Not a great bike but
    a nice one.

    Quoted message said:

    In your case, the budget approach seems to indicate a bike with some sort of front suspension
    might have been a better choice. This need not be a high dollar one suitable for cycling up and
    down K2, just something to take the 'oomph' out of potholes and the like.

    Front suspension would be the forks that have little rubber doohickeys on them and make it so they
    jounce one way while the bike bounces a different way, right?

    I can get those aftermarket. Unless I get a totally pointless, for the North China _Plain_, mountain
    bike or get a stunt bike, shocks and suspension don't come on local bikes. In this city, you don't
    even get multiple gears for a bike unless you buy them special.

    (The students at my school with whom I have spoken who have multiple gears on their bikes have never
    used them and have no idea how to use them.)

    I did seem some bikes where there seemed to be various kinds of suspension and bounce-ability built
    into the frame but they were all Chinese made. The price indicated that they were _probably_ good
    bikes but I wanted a known brand.

    Quoted message said:

    If you dont like the idea of gloves (or the fashion statement it makes), you could try them just
    to measure the effect before exploring new grips, or a combo.

    I've got gloves. I'd forgotten all about them. They are a standard part of my kit on deliberate
    instances of "I am going on a bicycle ride" but most of my riding is more like "I am going the long
    way around to cross the street."

    -M

  12. Marian Rosenberg said:
    Dan Daniel said:

    On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:10:52 +0800, Marian Rosenberg <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:


    How does one go about getting a bike that is a good fit?

    SOmeone posted this link, and it seems pretty good-

    peterwhitecycles.comfitting.htm

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Some people ride with a tight grip when it isn't needed. Pay attention and see if you can relax
    your grip, arms, and shoulders.

    Relazing definitely helps on the non bumpy fast riding conditions. I'm not too good at forcing
    relaxation but, yesterday's ride after getting a massage was almost as wonderful as the massage. I
    was kind of semi-liquid and my bike was an extension of myself.

    Great feeling, isn't it? That's how it should be all the time.

    Quoted message said:


    Part of why I am pariticularly noticing the pain is because I have been playing with the wonderful
    balance of my new bike and, traffic permitting, going 5 and 10 minutes at a stretch with hands
    nowhere near the handlebars.

    Do you do work or activites that put you at risk for carpal tunnel or repetitive stress injury? I
    wonder if the bike pain is aggravating a condition that comes from another activity.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Think of your arms as shock absorbers, not tie rods.

    When I hit potholes and bumps, I relax my grip, not tighten it. You don't want to take all of the
    impact force on your hands.

    Okay. I KNOW I haven't been doing this. I've been tightening my grip in expectation of the
    possibility of loss of control.

    -M

    Someone else mentioned using your legs, also. Rise off the seat just a touch, relax the grip, and
    let the legs take any impact. I don't let my arms go totally limp, of course. I'm prepared to have
    to force the handlebars and react to the front wheel being twisted and jolted.

  13. On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:39:03 -0700, Zoot Katz <[email hidden]> from Balsa Pacific Aero Ltd.

    Engineering & Bicycle Mongery said:

    Sun, 31 Aug 2003 15:07:39 -0500, <[email hidden]>, Kevan Smith

    /\/\ said:

    When you see a bump coming, relax and put your weight on your butt.

    huh? Put your weight on the pedals, your legs are better shock absorbers than your spine.

    I don't stand up for anything but huge bumps. The average bumps of the road I just relax and roll
    right over.
    --
    home.sport.rr.comcuthulu human rights = peace I believe in wash fulfillment.
    1:01:06 AM 1 September 2003

  14. Mon, 01 Sep 2003 01:02:03 -0500, <[email hidden]>, Kevan Smith

    /\/\ said:

    I don't stand up for anything but huge bumps. The average bumps of the road I just relax and roll
    right over.

    Perhaps it's because I got used to riding on road bikes with light wheels that I still habitually un
    weight the bike on bumps. If I can't hop or at least un weight the bike, I stand.

    My fat tires, pumped up hard, and my Brooks boinger handle the average bumps fine but my perception
    of what constitutes a bump is influenced by road bike experience.

    I build my wheels strong and ride 'em light. They last.
    --
    zk

  15. Dan Daniel said:
    Marian Rosenberg said:
    Dan Daniel said:

    On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:10:52 +0800, Marian Rosenberg <[email hidden]> wrote:


    Quoted message said:

    How does one go about getting a bike that is a good fit?


    SOmeone posted this link, and it seems pretty good-

    peterwhitecycles.comfitting.htm

    duly noted.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Some people ride with a tight grip when it isn't needed. Pay attention and see if you can relax
    your grip, arms, and shoulders.

    Relazing definitely helps on the non bumpy fast riding conditions. I'm not too good at forcing
    relaxation but, yesterday's ride after getting a massage was almost as wonderful as the massage. I
    was kind of semi-liquid and my bike was an extension of myself.


    Great feeling, isn't it? That's how it should be all the time.

    I'm not normally in a semi-liquid state of being. I can see the bike as extension of self being a
    good thing. However, achieving the semi-liquid state is not necessarily easy.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Part of why I am pariticularly noticing the pain is because I have been playing with the wonderful
    balance of my new bike and, traffic permitting, going 5 and 10 minutes at a stretch with hands
    nowhere near the handlebars.

    Do you do work or activites that put you at risk for carpal tunnel or repetitive stress injury? I
    wonder if the bike pain is aggravating a condition that comes from another activity.

    I'm a comptuer junkie and I've been a touch typist for 15 years now.

    When there is soreness, the wrists aren't nearly so sore as the palms of the hands are.

    -M

  16. On Mon, 01 Sep 2003 00:24:09 -0700, Zoot Katz <[email hidden]> from Balsa Pacific Aero Ltd.

    Engineering & Bicycle Mongery said:

    Mon, 01 Sep 2003 01:02:03 -0500, <[email hidden]>, Kevan Smith

    /\/\ said:

    I don't stand up for anything but huge bumps. The average bumps of the road I just relax and roll
    right over.

    Perhaps it's because I got used to riding on road bikes with light wheels that I still habitually
    un weight the bike on bumps. If I can't hop or at least un weight the bike, I stand.

    The roads are in such poor condition here, that if I stood for every bump, the whole ride would be
    spent standing. That's only a little bit of an exaggeration. I tend to avoid rum busters
    altogether, though.

    --
    home.sport.rr.comcuthulu human rights = peace If I had a Q-TIP, I could prevent th'
    collapse of NEGOTIATIONS!!
    2:07:46 PM 1 September 2003

  17. In article <[email hidden]>, Marian Rosenberg

    Quoted message said:


    I try not to abuse my bicycle. But, the best places to ride in the bicycle lanes are already taken
    by other bicycles creeping along at 5 and 6 kilometers an hour. This means going over manhole
    covers, and catching the occasional pothole.

    Think "airiness". Be meringue. Set your saddle height so you're sort of between sitting and
    standing. Whatever type of bike on gets -- comfort, road, hybrid or MTB -- one should be able to
    readily get a sense of lifting off the saddle when pedaling -- or at least being able to.
    Saddle-suck ... sux. If your bike config feels like it's making you sit down like in an easy chair,
    it's very wrong.

    Exhale so you weigh less when going over those bumps :-) It doesn't hurt to lift off the saddle and
    let the elbows & knees flex when they need to, too.

    But potholes are serious bizness. Best thing to avoid those is to ride further out from the curb,
    and in the part of the road where potholes are less likely to occur. Otherwise, potholes can mess
    up dental work real bad. But just be light on the bike. I know it sounds glib, but it really is
    the answer.

    Honestly.

    The bike doesn't wear you -- you wear it. At least, that's how it should be. Become one with the air
    that fights against you. That's all I can say. It works. I dunno. I't probably all coming out wrong,
    and I'm annoying you. But I don't mean to.

    But riding is such a "feeling"-oriented thing. That makes it difficult to literally describe.

    cheers, Tom

    --
    -- Powered by FreeBSD Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn
    [point] bc [point] ca

  18. In article <[email hidden]>, Kevan Smith

    /\/\ said:

    I don't stand up for anything but huge bumps. The average bumps of the road I just relax and roll
    right over.

    My seatpost is a couple of microns away from optimal thickness. So for every seated bump I hit, I
    pound it down so much the further. Tomorrow I've gotta get to Our Community Bikes!, and see if
    they've got a better (thicker) seatpost for me. And some pedals for the mixte. The binder-bolt thing
    gets old, real fast, with a wrongly- sized seatpost. Good ol' shiny steel seatpost, though. It just
    needs the right bike to stick it in.

    Maybe I can score a steel rack while I'm at it. (I hate aluminum racks.)

    cheers, Tom

    ---
    Above address is just a spam midden. I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

  19. Followup -

    Despite owning a pair, I have yet to try bicycle gloves. They aren't part of my morning grab the
    keys and camera bag ritual ... yet. So, this morning and yesterday morning I was halfway to
    breakfast when I realized I had forgotten the gloves.

    I also have not managed to get foam grips for the handlebars yet. I plan to go looking for some this
    weekend in Beijing.

    I am following the instructions about relaxing a bit more and loosening the grip. Just from that
    slight behavior modification the pain reduction has been extreme.

    I'm also trying a new way of bicyling in rush hour. I pick a bicyclist that is going a reasonable
    speed and I follow him as he weaves through traffic. Every so often the bicyclist will do something
    that I'm not yet confident enough to try and I will have to slow down to the ambient speed until I
    find someone else to follow. This keeps me in the middle of the bike lanes and away from the worst
    of the bumps.

    -M

  20. Quoted message said:

    On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:10:52 +0800, Marian Rosenberg <[email hidden]> from
    wrote:...

    Quoted message said:


    Other than slowing down, and avoiding bumps in the road, is there anything I can do to protect
    my hands?



    Kevan Smith replied:

    Quoted message said:

    I assume you have padded gloves already. Also, don't take the force of the


    blow

    Quoted message said:

    with your hands and arms. When you see a bump coming, relax and put your


    weight

    Quoted message said:

    on your butt. Your hands and arms should just put enough force on the bars


    to

    Quoted message said:

    maintain steering control.

    Have you changed the position of you handlebars?

    1. With a traditional headset, you could raise or lower the bars -- providing you don't raise the
    quill past the "maximum height". With a threadless headset, you would need to move spacers or
    change the stem.

    2. You could loosen the bolt that holds the handlebars and rotate them. By rotating handlebars up or
    down, you would change slightly your wrist angle and increase (or decrease) your comfort.

    You could also change the handlebar grips. If you have the "slippery rubber" kind, grips with better
    friction would help your hands because you won't have to hold the handlebars that tightly.

    Regards,

    Michel Gagnon

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