Is this normal?

For someone from a MTB background, I would have suggested a CRX for a first road bike.

Try having the bars at the same height as the seat, turn the stem over or fit an adjustable one.

Use your MTB pedals and shoes until you are more confident with the bike.

I use platform pedals with strapless toe clips on both my bikes. The SPD pedals are back in their boxes and the shoes are for sale (SH-M038, $60) 😄

I can understand feeling apprehensive when using clipless pedals for the first time; it’s new so take the time to practice with both feet on the flat before trying the rolling hills and stop start traffic. I unclip the back of the cleat out when approaching a red light if it changes before I stop its easy to clip back in and continue. Are the cleats set at the correct pressure? The benefits of clipless Vs platform is significant and worth the effort of mastering, surprised you did not use them on the mtb. After time you don’t even look or think about clip in or out, rushing to clip in can cause the pedal to flip just get in on the next revolution.

Going from mtb to road takes time for the body to get used to riding in the aero position and the arms may be used to hold up the body rather than just to lightly hold and steer the handlebars which allows more power to be directed to your pedalling, the pedalling action is used to hold up your torso as you ride, keep your hands light on the bars, makes steering easier as well. The OCR1 would be considered an excellent start for most if cashed up, and every bike needs to be adjusted to suit you, not all shops do the set up and for a new road rider to settings will change over time to match your flexibility, the suggestion to flip the stem may help if it is set down at the moment.

Dont expect to be an expert after the first ride, but stick with it at least you have a bike that wont need upgrading anytime soon.

Enjoy

Make sure that your bars are not more than the width of your fist (distance from one side of index finger to other side of little finger with fingers held together) below the height of your seat. Try easing your seat back a little (ie 5mm; this will actually bend you over more, but will allow you to put a little more weight on the pedals and seat.

artemidorus said:

Make sure that your bars are not more than the width of your fist (distance from one side of index finger to other side of little finger with fingers held together) below the height of your seat. Try easing your seat back a little (ie 5mm; this will actually bend you over more, but will allow you to put a little more weight on the pedals and seat.

I had the same pain, I gave up riding because of it for years. When I took it back up this year it came back and my hubby adjusted my seat slightly, made such a difference to my neck. I still lean too much on the handlebars so need to get a new pair of gloves, can't find my old ones - they probably would be crisp by now.

My neck was sore after my first few rides but now it seems ok. I thought it was from looking up alot while riding and using the neck muscles more.

Daz

onelostchicken said:

and another thing..

bike shoes and clipping in...how do people manage to do it when you're trying to go uphill? I tried this around Fairfield (in Melbourne -> the Yarra Blvd) and I couldnt manage it until it flattened out...

Cheers

With single-sided pedals, this is one thing that can still be quite awkward and graceless after years of practice. I often need to ride carefully with my cleat on the smooth underside of my pedal until I've got enough speed up to pause and clip in. You'll find that the steepness that you can tolerate easily will increase a bit with time.
If you're riding double sided pedals, such as most SPD, then just stomp it. Even if you don't manage to clip in, there's generally enough friction between sole/cleat and pedal to allow effective pedalling.

onelostchicken said:

I've just bought my first road bike ( Giant OCR1 '06 - saved about $300 off retail price) and I went for a ride 2 days ago. I found that at the end of the ride I had really sore palms and really tight muscles around my neck. I've heard that this is due to leaning too much on the handlebars...

I'm coming off a mountain bike...and yes I've had my stacks at the traffic lights when I couldnt unclip...

bike shoes and clipping in...how do people manage to do it when you're trying to go uphill?

Cheers

Hey there,

I just bought an OCR1 about 3 weeks ago (2005 model - very sharp deal) and have had similar problems. Very tight shoulder/neck muscles and, after the first ride, very nasty saddle sores. I'm slowly lowering the seat to try and make the ride a bit more upright (I had a spinal fusion 9 weeks ago and don't want to be too bent).

The tightness aside, the bike is great to ride - fast and quiet although considerably harsher than the MTB.

I spent the first 3 days of owwnership trying to track down pedal inserts so I didn't have to wear bike shoes. Eventually I just bit the bullet and used the clip ins. In around 500 klms I haven't fallen yet (came close once). The LBS guy advised to just pre-empt everything. I unclip approaching lights, other riders, kids, cars, intersections and especially dogs. My pedals are adjusted a little loose so they unclip really well yet I can pull up any hill with confidence. I can even pedal (very) gently without actually forcing the pedals to clip.

Stick with them - I can't see myself ever going back.

cheers

kak

Perhaps the distance between your saddle and the handlebars is too long? How tall are you? If you have a short upper body, you might be forced to stretch too far forward. You might want to consider a shorter head stem. I've got a 90mm one (I think standard ones are about 13mm?).

If this might solve your problem, you can just buy a BBB headstem, don't worry about replacing it with the same brand that's already on your Giant. It'll probably turn out cheaper.

Quoted post said:

The LBS guy advised to just pre-empt everything. I unclip approaching lights, other riders, kids, cars, intersections and especially dogs.

I second this, I've never used toeclips, only straps and learnt very quickly not to bother strapping in when cycling with my son. We were about to ride up a short but steep incline so I thought to ride ahead because his wobbling might cause me problems. I was halfway up when I heard an anguished scream behind me, stopped suddenly, couldn't get my feet out of the straps quick enough and ended up in the bushes by the road. I scrambled out leaving the bike behind fearing the worse only to find that he had dropped his waterbottle! :eek:

I have abandoned the Shimano/cleat system as training for short course triathlon meant riding in running shoes.

I am using strapless toe clips on both bikes with runners. Click on http://www.bicorp.com.au/home.aspx then type in the search box at the top left of the page: TCSCBK
"TCSCBK SURECLIP HALF CLIP BLACK" these can be ordered from most bike shops.

I've had the same neck/shoulder pain issue. I've been taking a tool with me on rides, and to my great surprise I've found tiny changes (ie 1 - 2 mm) in saddle height and for-aft position make discernable differences in comfort.

I also bought an adjustable BBB headstem and moved it up, and as I get more flexible and lose weight move it down again with the aim of eventually getting back to the original

Hands, neck, and back soreness. If you spent a lot on your bike and you are having problems with comfort use the 3 week rule. Ride it frequently for 3 weeks before you decide in a change in position. If you are leaning too far forward toward the bars lift them up by adjusting the stem. If the bike dealer cut the Steerer tube too short (a nasty habit too many shops have) then ask for a new one before you ride too far and test different heights until you are comfortable.
A company named Delta makes an extender for threadless steerer tubes so you can adjust your position up or down. If you need to add to the cable length, especially the front break there are 2 sided ferrules that you can use and ad bits of cablehousing to the existing housing without having to buy a whole new cable set. Experiment because comfort is paramount.
Recently I have done this after decades of riding. I have traditionally ridden a 9cm drop from my seat to the top of the handle bars. It was where I always setup my bike since the days I raced. It has been comfortable until the last few years (now 63). I was very stubborn in keeping the same position and any ride over 60 miles was agonizing.
After some testing I have settled on a 3cm drop and this is not only more comfortable, but it has improved my endurance by opening up the angle with my legs allowing more power to be applied. I rode 90 miles on New Years Day and had no pain in the usual places.
Good luck and don't be afraid to experiment. Your body is a one off so your position should be unique as well.

Quoted post said:

A company named Delta makes an extender for threadless steerer tubes so you can adjust your position up or down

In Australia, BikeCorp import them in black and silver, "Zoom" brand:
ZHU2 ZOOM HEADS UP 2 A-HEAD EXT SILVER
ZHU2BK ZOOM HEADS UP 2 BLACK