Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Spokes breaking in middle - advice please.

Started by Andrew W · · Last activity · 9 posts · 503 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
18 December 2005
Last activity
20 December 2005
Original author
Andrew W
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
503
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–9 of 9
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Having replaced a broken spoke I was re-truing the wheel and broke two
    more in doing so. Not at the nipple, but about a quarter of the way
    along where the butted spokes change gauge.

    I am a little surprised at this as spokes usually snap at the nipple or
    elbow (as the first one did that necessitated the repair).

    Also this wheel dates back to the early 70s and has been used on and
    off since with (until now) the original spokes.

    I can't imagine I am overtightening the spokes, the nipples turn fairly
    freely and I doubt if the Wolber Super Champion rims would take that
    much tension.

    So (getting to my question) what do you think is the most likely cause
    - I have provisionally ruled out the likeliest candidates:

    Fatigue - would affect elbow, but not butted part? (Though I did ride
    10 miles or so with one broken spoke).
    Poor quality spokes - but they have lasted 30 years without problems up
    until now.
    Over tensioning - spokes are not over-tight

    I have already devided that it is time for new rim/spokes (I want to
    keep the Nuovo Tipo hub as it still runs well and I don't see any need
    to change it), but I want to learn from my experience, if indeed there
    is something to learn.

    Andrew Webster

  2. Andrew W said:

    Having replaced a broken spoke I was re-truing the wheel and broke two
    more in doing so. Not at the nipple, but about a quarter of the way
    along where the butted spokes change gauge.

    I am a little surprised at this as spokes usually snap at the nipple or
    elbow (as the first one did that necessitated the repair).

    Also this wheel dates back to the early 70s and has been used on and
    off since with (until now) the original spokes.

    I can't imagine I am overtightening the spokes, the nipples turn fairly
    freely and I doubt if the Wolber Super Champion rims would take that
    much tension.

    So (getting to my question) what do you think is the most likely cause
    - I have provisionally ruled out the likeliest candidates:

    Fatigue - would affect elbow, but not butted part? (Though I did ride
    10 miles or so with one broken spoke).
    Poor quality spokes - but they have lasted 30 years without problems up
    until now.
    Over tensioning - spokes are not over-tight

    I have already devided that it is time for new rim/spokes (I want to
    keep the Nuovo Tipo hub as it still runs well and I don't see any need
    to change it), but I want to learn from my experience, if indeed there
    is something to learn.

    Andrew Webster

    Could be old/poor spokes, could be you twisted the spokes until they
    failed - that's my best guess (though you said "the nipples turn fairly
    freely"😉. BTW, *some* of those SuperChampion rims were tanks - they
    could definitely take a lot of tension.

    Mark

  3. Mark Janeba wrote:
    <cut>

    Quoted message said:


    Could be old/poor spokes, could be you twisted the spokes until they
    failed - that's my best guess (though you said "the nipples turn fairly
    freely"😉. BTW, *some* of those SuperChampion rims were tanks - they
    could definitely take a lot of tension.

    Mark

    That's certainly a possibility I hadn't thought of. You could well be
    right.

  4. In article
    <[email hidden]>,

    Andrew W said:

    Having replaced a broken spoke I was re-truing the wheel and broke two
    more in doing so. Not at the nipple, but about a quarter of the way
    along where the butted spokes change gauge.

    I am a little surprised at this as spokes usually snap at the nipple or
    elbow (as the first one did that necessitated the repair).

    Also this wheel dates back to the early 70s and has been used on and
    off since with (until now) the original spokes.

    I can't imagine I am overtightening the spokes, the nipples turn fairly
    freely and I doubt if the Wolber Super Champion rims would take that
    much tension.

    So (getting to my question) what do you think is the most likely cause
    - I have provisionally ruled out the likeliest candidates:

    Fatigue - would affect elbow, but not butted part? (Though I did ride
    10 miles or so with one broken spoke).
    Poor quality spokes - but they have lasted 30 years without problems up
    until now.
    Over tensioning - spokes are not over-tight

    I have already devided that it is time for new rim/spokes (I want to
    keep the Nuovo Tipo hub as it still runs well and I don't see any need
    to change it), but I want to learn from my experience, if indeed there
    is something to learn.

    Take a strong magnifier under bright light and closely
    examine both faces of each fracture.

    Does the relief of the fracture suggest a helix,
    indicating a twisted spoke?

    Is there contrasting color, dark near the surface of the
    spoke, and bright at the center of the spoke, indicating
    corrosion?

    What else can you tell us about the fracture.

    --
    Michael Press

  5. Andrew Webster said:

    Having replaced a broken spoke I was re-truing the wheel and broke
    two more in doing so. Not at the nipple, but about a quarter of the
    way along where the butted spokes change gauge.

    Quoted message said:

    I am a little surprised at this as spokes usually snap at the nipple
    or elbow (as the first one did that necessitated the repair).

    They usually break at high stress points from fatigue, but in tensile
    test they break in the straight spans at one end or the other. Spokes
    that break while truing generally break from a combination of tension
    and torque, the torque being the straw that breaks the spokes back, so
    to speak.

    I have a warning for wheel building and truing, and that is to not
    look into the spoke nipple being tightened because it can eject as an
    arrow from a crossbow into the face. That your spoke broke while
    truing suggests you are using thin swaged spokes and that you may not
    have had sufficient lubrication in the threads.

    Spokes with 1.5mm slender portions cannot be adequately tightened
    without such failures anyway. That's why I recommend against them. I
    had experience with several brands of such spokes and found the only
    way to get them adequately tight was to unload them while tightening.
    This is done in a rigid truing fixture with the rim pulled to the side
    of the spoke being tightened. In a truing machine this could be done
    with a radial pneumatic plunger.

    Quoted message said:

    Also this wheel dates back to the early 70s and has been used on and
    off since with (until now) the original spokes.

    Quoted message said:

    I can't imagine I am overtightening the spokes, the nipples turn
    fairly freely and I doubt if the Wolber Super Champion rims would
    take that much tension.

    Get out your caliper and measure the spoke diameter. It is most
    likely close to 1.5mm. Besides, how many spokes do these wheels have?
    With 24 1.8-1.6mm spokes the unloading scheme is required anyway at
    the tension such wheels require to withstand heavy loads.

    Quoted message said:

    So (getting to my question) what do you think is the most likely cause
    - I have provisionally ruled out the likeliest candidates:

    Torque and tension. How much wind-up are you getting? More than 1/4
    turn is a dead giveaway that torque is killing the spokes.

    Quoted message said:

    Fatigue - would affect elbow, but not butted part? (Though I did ride
    10 miles or so with one broken spoke).

    Fatigue doesn't affect spokes there anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    Poor quality spokes - but they have lasted 30 years without problems
    up until now.

    What brand are they, or what is the logo on the s[poke heads?

    Quoted message said:

    Over tensioning - spokes are not over-tight

    Over torqued isn't necessarily over tight.

    Quoted message said:

    I have already decided that it is time for new rim/spokes (I want to
    keep the Nuovo Tipo hub as it still runs well and I don't see any
    need to change it), but I want to learn from my experience, if
    indeed there is something to learn.

    What's wrong with the rims that you want to chuck them?

    Jobst Brandt

  6. You seem to be overlooking the type of spokes. Early 70's could be
    chrome plated union spokes. They were popular then and came in some
    pretty skinny sizes. These did break in the middle quite often. I had
    a set of 15/17s one one of my racing wheels that I had fun with.
    Someone put their campy quill pedal in my front wheel and I got to
    watch the spokes get ripped in half. Sure beat taking a header in a
    pack.

    Time to rebuild with modern stainless steel spokes. Lay the rims on a
    flat floor to check for any warps or bends before reusing. You can
    polish up those super champions and they will look great. That's a lot
    easier to do with the spokes off. Ditto for the hubs. Examine both for
    cracks too.

    Rick

  7. To cover the points you make.

    I always make sure I true up wheels with the rim tape in place for
    safety (folowing advice in "the bicycle Wheel", after this experience I
    am pleased that I do. Wheels are 36 spokes, as a tourist and commuter I
    see no reson to use fewr that this.

    I measure the thin part of the spoke to 1.6mm, can't see any
    identifying marks on them, but you are right that there is some
    resistance before the threads turn, varies from spoke to spoke, but
    some as much as a quarter turn or so. It looks like this is the root
    of the problem. I am pleased that I posted this query as I have,
    indeed, learned from this experience.

    As far as replacing the rims goes I thought that if I was rebuilding
    the wheel anyway I might be better off with a modern twin-wall rim
    (this is a rear wheel so I doubt that the rim will have much wear on
    it), though with what I have read about MA3s here recently that may not
    be a valid assumption.

    Thanks for your comments.

    Andrew

  8. Andrew W said:

    To cover the points you make.

    I always make sure I true up wheels with the rim tape in place for
    safety (folowing advice in "the bicycle Wheel", after this experience
    I am pleased that I do. Wheels are 36 spokes, as a tourist and
    commuter I see no reson to use fewr that this.

    I measure the thin part of the spoke to 1.6mm, can't see any
    identifying marks on them, but you are right that there is some
    resistance before the threads turn, varies from spoke to spoke, but
    some as much as a quarter turn or so. It looks like this is the root
    of the problem. I am pleased that I posted this query as I have,
    indeed, learned from this experience.

    Eek! Quarter-turn? Doesn't that just feel wrong to you?

    New spokes/nipples and lube are definitely in order.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  9. Well yes, but then, you see they are upwards of 30 years old so I was
    expecting the threads to be a bit stiff by now. Next time I will do a
    bit of lubricating BEFORE I start truing an old wheel.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.