With three punctures in a week (slow in the rear went flat overnight then slow in the front ditto and then tonight a roadside change for the rear) I've patched some innertubes for the first time in years. As I was changing the tires I decided I might as well and then keep some new tubes for the next puncture and put some patched tubes in now.
But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had to pull the patch off the tube and start again.
So I've left the paper on.
What do others do?
Tim.
-- God said, "div D = rho, div B = 0, curl E = - @B/@t, curl H = J + @D/@t," and there was light.
But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12 o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze, such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed working from the middle out.
But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had to pull the patch off the tube and start again.
So I've left the paper on.
What do others do?
It's better to remove the backing when you can because that allows the patch to stretch more easily, but no big deal if any of it is stuck as it will eventually disintegrate of its own accord.
I tend to use patches with a cellophane rather than paper backing. This is easy to peel off cleanly after snips have been made at the sides.
But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12 o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze, such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed working from the middle out.
Tim
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't get the backing paper off.
The new patches aren't all bad though, at least there is no need to carry a blow-torch to vulcanise the repair anymore...
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
10 minutes! I usually leave it overnight before trying to remove the backing (unless it's an emergency on-the-road repair, of course, but I usually have a spare tube for those occasions).
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still wet!
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still wet!
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still wet!
On 30 Nov 2005 00:48:45 -0800, "sothach" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Tim Woodall said:
But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't get the backing paper off.
The new patches aren't all bad though, at least there is no need to carry a blow-torch to vulcanise the repair anymore...
Or a small boy to operate the bellows (obviously _not_ allowed in the TdF).
With three punctures in a week (slow in the rear went flat overnight then slow in the front ditto and then tonight a roadside change for the rear) I've patched some innertubes for the first time in years. As I was changing the tires I decided I might as well and then keep some new tubes for the next puncture and put some patched tubes in now.
But the patches are different from what I remember. My patches are on paper with a foil covering them. The foil peels of easily but I can't get the backing paper off. The first one I tried to get it off after sticking the patch on the tube, gave up, but it was too late and I had to pull the patch off the tube and start again.
So I've left the paper on.
What do others do?
Tim.
I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones. Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.
But if you feel you _must_ get the paper off, place finger at 12 o'clock and thumb at 6 o'clock on the newly applied patch, Squeeze, such that the patch folds along the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock line. This will cause the paper to crack, allowing ot to be carefully removed working from the middle out.
Alternative method: when the glue has /firmly/ set, stretch the tube /across/ the patch. The tube will stretch, the patch will stretch, the film will not stretch, hence it will tear and come off easily. Works with Tip-Top brand patches, which in my experience are the best.
-- [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ Ring of great evil Small one casts it into flame Bringing rise of Men ;; gonzoron
agreed - only do then when the patch has been on for about 10 mins or more - this caught me out when i tried it after 1 minute and the patch slid off!! :-(
That makes me think you put the patch on when the solution was still wet!
yes :-|
Don't. Let the glue dry before you put the patch on. It can't dry after, because it dries by evaporation of volatiles and the patch is impermeable.
"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Alternative method: when the glue has /firmly/ set, stretch the tube /across/ the patch. The tube will stretch, the patch will stretch, the film will not stretch, hence it will tear and come off easily. Works with Tip-Top brand patches, which in my experience are the best.
Tip-Tops have the film slightly perforated to help with this.
I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones. Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.
<fx: Recalls experiences with these on the Rural South 300. Froths at the mouth. Gibbers uncontrollably>
I bung the newly-repaired tube in the "spares" bag and remove the paper the next time the P+nct+r+ Fairy requires the installation of an Unholey tube.
I overheard in the bike shop that the self-stickies aren't any good for road tyre pressures. Can't remember exactly but maybe over 80 PSI? Or maybe it was just a particular brand.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I gave up with these type of patches and now use self sticky ones. Several people seem to have trouble with these but I have always found them to be reliable. The make to go for is Park.
I overheard in the bike shop that the self-stickies aren't any good for road tyre pressures. Can't remember exactly but maybe over 80 PSI? Or maybe it was just a particular brand.
It's a myth, I think. With whatever sort of patch, the higher the pressure, the harder it is effectively pressed against the tube by the tyre casing. This must be a good thing.
I've had Giyo glueless patches take 130 psi, I've had them fail at 40 psi, and vice versa. "Normal" patches are much more consistant and reliable, IME. Maybe Park's are better, I dunno.
