Bontrager "Gauge Units" ?

Quoted message said:

Can someone help me convert from Bontrager "gauge units" to a number I
can use without a custom Bontrager tensionometer? This is for a 2004
Bontrager Select Road wheelset, rear wheel. The 2003 Service Manual
(that's the latest on their web site) shows 110-150 "gauge units" (and
"load" of 110-290 lbs). It's a 24-spoke wheel with 14G (2.0 mm)
spokes. Rider weight is 185 lbs.

Thanks.

--
Daniel

Gauge units are deflection of the Bontrager/Hozan gauge in millimeters.

"Load" is what you want; it's the spoke tension in pounds.

Check the spoke diameter to be sure of whether or not they're butted.
Some Selects I've seen have 2.0 - 1.8 mm spokes.

They're not butted in this case (although the 2003 manual shows them as
butted). The wheel is built (my first) and ready for a test ride.

Thanks!

--
Daniel

Is the tension listed for the butted spokes the same as the tension
should be for straight spokes? After re-building, the rim is slightly
larger, as evidenced by the difficulty of installing and removing the
tire. I have trued the wheel near the maximum tension values on the
drive side (290 lbs, or "25" on my TM-1 Tensionometer) and the dish is
spot-on.

Thanks.

--
Daniel

In article
<[email hidden]>,

Quoted post said:

Is the tension listed for the butted spokes the same as the tension
should be for straight spokes? After re-building, the rim is slightly
larger, as evidenced by the difficulty of installing and removing the
tire. I have trued the wheel near the maximum tension values on the
drive side (290 lbs, or "25" on my TM-1 Tensionometer) and the dish is
spot-on.

Yes, use the same tension for straight and butted spokes.
A butted spoke can easily sustain all the tension
necessary for a bicycle wheel.

--
Michael Press

Quoted message said:

Is the tension listed for the butted spokes the same as the tension
should be for straight spokes?

As Michael said, yep.

Quoted message said:

After re-building, the rim is slightly
larger, as evidenced by the difficulty of installing and removing the
tire.

Try mounting the tire from the other side of the wheel. For some reason
(the offset spoke bed maybe?) I've noticed it can be easier on one
side.

Speaking of OSB, check that it's facing the right way. I've built these
wrong way around before. :-(

Quoted message said:

I have trued the wheel near the maximum tension values on the
drive side (290 lbs, or "25" on my TM-1 Tensionometer) and the dish is
spot-on.

Good job! Enjoy your new wheel.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Is the tension listed for the butted spokes the same as the tension
should be for straight spokes?

As Michael said, yep.

Quoted message said:

After re-building, the rim is slightly
larger, as evidenced by the difficulty of installing and removing the
tire.

Try mounting the tire from the other side of the wheel. For some
reason (the offset spoke bed maybe?) I've noticed it can be easier on
one side.

Speaking of OSB, check that it's facing the right way. I've built
these wrong way around before. :-(

Quoted message said:

I have trued the wheel near the maximum tension values on the
drive side (290 lbs, or "25" on my TM-1 Tensionometer) and the dish
is spot-on.

Good job! Enjoy your new wheel.

My OSB rim UNDERdished the rear wheel (Velocity Aerohead/AmClassic). My NDS
spokes are tighter than my DS spokes, but close enough to essentially call
the wheel "undished." Not by much, but definitely did the trick.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training