height of KH20 frame

Kris,

Although freestyle is my thing, I think closer the better even for
trials. For instance, on my Semcycle XL Longneck frame that is just a
couple of millimeters off the tire, I rarely ever drag my foot. I
think this may be from a reasonable amount of experience on freestyle
riding with lots of standing on frame and foot on frame skills, or it
may just be natural. On the other hand, on my Nimbus 29er with rounded
crown frame, if I ever one foot or one foot wheelwalk for fun sometimes
my foot drags about 50% of the time. I guess the conclusion of that
info is up to you, but there you go! Oh, and one quick question: does
dirt and debris ever get stuck in between the frame and tire? If so,
the closer crown may be affected by that, although I doubt that's the
case.

-Tyler Cox 🙂

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I like the frame lower I guess. Here is a comparison:

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Tyre clearance isn't as crucial on a purely trials-use frame, as rock,
log, pallet, box & plank hopping, along with rail riding and other
street tricks won't pick up debris like a muni will. But if anyone
wants to purchase one uni and use it for trials/street/muni/whatever,
then some kind of basic frame (like the 2004/5 onza or nimbus) might be
more suitable for them. Back to the point...

If you're paying £80+ for a light, strong frame then I think making it
as trials/street suitable as possible would be the way to go, rather
than trying to cater for loads of different uses in one frame. IMHO,
for trials & street a low tyre clearance & correspondingly low crown
are more advantageous than any kind of artificial attempt to stop
people accidentally putting thier feet on the tyre. Since the KH20
frames are used on street & trials unis, being able to have the seat
artificially low (for trials) but still have a comfortable foot rest
height for 1ft, WW & Gliding etc (street skills) is very important. I
currently have the issue where my seat is very low for trials, and I
struggle to get my foot to a repeatably decent position for 1ft (on a
2004 Onza Frame). A lower crown (by my measurements a New KH20 Alu
frame would be 30-35mm lower at the crown than my current frame) would
make this much easier. Even with this massive height (its at least
65-70mm above the tyre) I still rub my foot on the tyre transferring to
1ft every so often, which is something technique can cure.

Maybe some kind of texturing effect on the crown itself (like the DM
close-crown frames) would help with foot positioning on a lower crown?

Loose.

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Loosemoose said:

Maybe some kind of texturing effect on the crown itself (like the DM
close-crown frames) would help with foot positioning on a lower crown?

Loose.

2006 frames will have a knurled (textured) crown.

Kris

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danger_uni said:

2006 frames will have a knurled (textured) crown.

Kris

Oooh, now I'm just going to have to buy one... Damn you and all your
incredible technological advancements :p. What kind of date are we
looking at these new frames being available, I'd love to have one for
next years BUC.

oose.

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Personally i would perfer the 35MM over the 45MM just becasue there is
less crown to get in the way. I guess the weight of the frame would not
be effected much by the 10 MM diffrence in fork legth?

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gerblefranklin said:

As low a profile as possible. These are trials and muni frames, not
freestyle, right? So why compromise performance in trials and muni for
a secondary intention? You can get used to gliding with a low profile
crown, but having knees bashed never stops being painful. While
technique is more important, a low profile crown helps.

This is probably an insignificant point to make, but I guess having the
effective frame leg length shorter would make it stronger, allowing you
to use thinner tubing. I don't expect the difference to noticable
though.

I've only done a little bit of gliding and coasting (short coasting),
but I know that I can't picture myself ever really getting used to
having the corwn closer to the tyre. I find it a real stretch to bend
my foot back that far so that it doesn't touch the tyre or only touches
it lightly. I also almost never hit my knees and legs on the crown.

Andrew

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I think the 35mm would feel better than the 45mm option, it makes a much
grater feel while one footed wheelwalking, or one footed riding.. I
can't se the point of having a higher crown, makes nothing that i know
of better.. 🙂

I would want another inch or so in the seattube too!
This height places it in a criticla point while (trying to) do standup
wheelwalk, to hit your ankle in it all the time..
Not saying it would be a longneck, only a slightly higher neck for more
comfort!

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Cool, I wasn't sure before but I have the newest Spring2006 model!! 🙂

The short answer to your question is "no Kris, just leave be, it's
absolutely fine how it is!"

The general concensus amongst trialists and freestylers (who spawn
street riders) seems to be that the lower the profile, the better, so,
given that there's currently a 6mm(?) clearance between the tyre and
the frame, I think you could safely bring that down to about 3-4mm...
maybe even closer? That would make the frame 32-33mm above the tyre.

It would definitely be a "strictly trials" unicycle though as opposed
to how it currently appears to being marketed as a "Trials/MUni for
kids" unicycle.

Beyond designing a wacky style of frame that allows the "foot rest"
part of the crown to actually sit lower than the top of the wheel, the
only other variable is the thickness of the crown which I suppose would
most likely be weakened by any thinning, which seems totally
unnecessary.

I'm no physisist so please don't laugh if this is a really stupid
question, but say you brought the clearance all the way down to .05mm,
would there be some affect in riding from the air movement caused by
the spinning tyre reacting with the very nearby frame? If so, would
this induce you to design an aerodynamic "gusset under the crown"?

cheers
Pete

PS I discovered a park in Auckland the other day thats called ChrisHolm
park... it's a great sign to do a stillstand on too!

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pete66 said:

I think you could safely bring that down to about 3-4mm... maybe even
closer?

I think it's important to leave enough room so that new models of
trials tyres that may be a little bigger in diameter can fit. The
Maxxis Creepy crawler only barely fits in my current frame (KH20 '03 or
'04 or so) and I think it used to rub until the rubber wore down a
little. Just a thought.

Andrew

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It might be a stupid question but why does the KH 24" have circles on
the frame?Is it 4 the brake?

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They don't really look like circles to me...

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I think these little "circles" are for helping you keep your foot on the
frame with 1-footed skills. These things have been phased out with the
newer model 2006 frames (in the trials version at least).

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pete66 said:

I think these little "circles" are for helping you keep your foot on the
frame with 1-footed skills. These things have been phased out with the
newer model 2006 frames (in the trials version at least).

Yes I meanted those.
Thanks for the answer.

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pete66 said:

I think these little "circles" are for helping you keep your foot on the
frame with 1-footed skills. These things have been phased out with the
newer model 2006 frames (in the trials version at least).

I dont think they ever had those on the 20" frames. Just the bigger
ones.

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uniMcPeat said:

I dont think they ever had those on the 20" frames. Just the bigger
ones.

You are right.

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oh ok, are they still on the bigger ones?

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pete66 said:

oh ok, are they still on the bigger ones?

One the 2005 models yes, but on the 2006 models I don't know.
You should ask that at Kris Holm 🙂

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Probailer2 said:

One the 2005 models yes, but on the 2006 models I don't know.
You should ask that at Kris Holm 🙂

I think I've read that the noodles (as they were colloquially referred
to) are off of the 2006 models, and that the top of the crown is
knurled (been given a funny surface) for grip.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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