I would like to put a rear mount computer on my trainer bicycle. It is a 700x25 roadie.
There seem to be just a few computers with wire long enough to be able to place the head on my bars.
Does anyone know if a wireless rear-mounted pickup unit will broadcast far enough from the rear mount to reliably transmit to a receiving head mounted on the bars?
How about splicing in/soldering some wire to make the wire long enough from the rear? I tried this once on a computer where the wire had broken, and it didn't work, but that may have been simply that the computer was broken also.
I already have a front mounted computer on the bike, and plan on removing the rear-mounted when I take the roadie (this is my "backup" roadie) off of the trainer and put it back in service come spring.
I would like to put a rear mount computer on my trainer bicycle. It is a 700x25 roadie.
There seem to be just a few computers with wire long enough to be able to place the head on my bars.
Does anyone know if a wireless rear-mounted pickup unit will broadcast far enough from the rear mount to reliably transmit to a receiving head mounted on the bars?
How about splicing in/soldering some wire to make the wire long enough from the rear? I tried this once on a computer where the wire had broken, and it didn't work, but that may have been simply that the computer was broken also.
I already have a front mounted computer on the bike, and plan on removing the rear-mounted when I take the roadie (this is my "backup" roadie) off of the trainer and put it back in service come spring.
I never had any problem splicing new wire to Cateye Mity models. I did this a few times on my MTBs when cables got snagged. Although I never purposely extended the length of the wire I'm sure that wouldn't be a problem (within reasonable length).
On 20 Oct 2005 09:15:57 -0700, "Colorado Bicycler" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
How about splicing in/soldering some wire to make the wire long enough from the rear? I tried this once on a computer where the wire had broken, and it didn't work, but that may have been simply that the computer was broken also.
Wired bike 'puters are almost invariably incredibly simple: the cable from the head has two contacts and in the 'sensor' there's one (count 'em, one) electromechanical item soldered between the leads, a reed switch (which is a little glass case containing a switch that closes upon application of a magnetic field, ie, the spoke magnet swinging by). I have, in fact, soldered a few meters extra wire between the head holder and sensor of my Cateye Mity 3 (this was a while ago), when the wire came loose from the head, and that worked perfectly fine. You'd want to do it a bit more neatly than I did, though.
Cadence computers presumably have three or four contacts between the head and the sensors, and *two* whole reed switches.
"Jasper Janssen" wrote: (clip) You'd want to do it a bit more neatly than I did, though. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's actually the hardest part, since the cord is fairly thin, and electrical tape can be bulky if not very carefully applied. Two suggestions: 1.) Stagger the splices, so you end up with two thin splices instead of one bulbous one. 2.) You can get shrink tubing that slips over the splice. A little heat from a match or a lighter will cause it to pull down into a very neat strong joint.
On 20 Oct 2005 17:01:40 -0700, "Colorado Bicycler" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Anyone know about wireless and transmitting from rear to bars?
the cateye double wireless is about the only one. get it off of ebay for around 100.00 the cateye astrle 8 has a long wire harness so it fits as is. Knight-Toolworks http://www.knight-toolworks.com affordable handmade wooden planes
How about splicing in/soldering some wire to make the wire long enough from the rear? I tried this once on a computer where the wire had broken, and it didn't work, but that may have been simply that the computer was broken also.
for how to do the job right. Stagger the connections for each conductor, and use heat shrink tubing, not electrical tape.
If the cable has four conductors (two for cadence) then it's a bit more work, but still do-able. However the models with cadence often are rear mount anyway.
the cateye astrle 8 has a long wire harness so it fits as is.
I'll 2nd this. We have an astrale 8 on our tandem and it reaches from front to the stoker's bars. (I put the sensor on the front because the frame was too far from the rear spokes for good pickup)
On 20 Oct 2005 17:01:40 -0700, "Colorado Bicycler" <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
Anyone know about wireless and transmitting from rear to bars?
Choose carefully. Rear mounting was not recommended for the Ciclo I had - not only did the mounting instructions specify the front fork, they also recommended installing the computer on the same *side* as the transmitter.
"Jasper Janssen" wrote: (clip) You'd want to do it a bit more neatly than I did, though. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's actually the hardest part, since the cord is fairly thin, and electrical tape can be bulky if not very carefully applied. Two suggestions: 1.) Stagger the splices, so you end up with two thin splices instead of one bulbous one. 2.) You can get shrink tubing that slips over the splice. A little heat from a match or a lighter will cause it to pull down into a very neat strong joint.
In my case, I used 2 single-strand wires in red and red/black and insulated the splices using blue electrical tape. I also had about 2 meters of excess wire that I cable-tied to my stem.
