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Front Derailleur Issues

Started by psycholist · · Last activity · 7 posts · 345 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
16 October 2005
Last activity
28 October 2005
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psycholist
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7
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  1. HELP!

    I took out my time trial bike the other day and, at the foot of a steep
    hill, I shifted to the small ring. Nothing happened except that the cable
    went slack. I tried a number of shifts. No luck. So I finished the ride
    in the big ring. The next day, I took out my road bike. Unbelieveably, the
    exact same thing happened. These are bikes I ride all the time ... several
    times a week, each. Cable routing is a bit different and I identified a
    couple of different possible issues on the two bikes. I completely removed
    the one on the TT bike and checked to make sure the sprint was working
    properly. I cleaned the cable, put some lube in the end of the housing,
    etc. When I put it all back together and adjusted it, it all worked
    beautifully on the work stand and also on a quick test ride. Then yesterday
    I had a race (TT) with a steep finishing hill. I went to shift to the small
    ring and it wouldn't go. I had to shift back, lost all momentum and had to
    grind my way to the finish line.

    I worked on the road bike similarly. Had it working great on the workstand.
    Got out this morning to ride it and it wouldn't shift to the small ring.
    When I'd try, the cable would just go slack but the derailleur wouldn't
    move.

    Anybody know what to suggest? I'm really baffled why this has started
    happening all the sudden and why nothing I've tried seems to fix it.

    Thanks,
    --
    Bob C.

    "Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
    T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)

  2. What was the temperature? If these are older Shimano STI levers the
    internal factory lube slowly turns to glue, strongly influenced by
    temperature. Also the cable lube Shimano provides in the little tube that
    comes with the levers is definitely not cold friendly. May be time for the
    WD40 flush. Start with the cable housings. Wait for the experts to chime in
    before you flush the lever bodies.
    Bill

    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    HELP!

    I took out my time trial bike the other day and, at the foot of a steep
    hill, I shifted to the small ring. Nothing happened except that the cable
    went slack. I tried a number of shifts. No luck. So I finished the ride
    in the big ring. The next day, I took out my road bike. Unbelieveably,


    the

    Quoted message said:

    exact same thing happened. These are bikes I ride all the time ...


    several

    Quoted message said:

    times a week, each. Cable routing is a bit different and I identified a
    couple of different possible issues on the two bikes. I completely


    removed

    Quoted message said:

    the one on the TT bike and checked to make sure the sprint was working
    properly. I cleaned the cable, put some lube in the end of the housing,
    etc. When I put it all back together and adjusted it, it all worked
    beautifully on the work stand and also on a quick test ride. Then


    yesterday

    Quoted message said:

    I had a race (TT) with a steep finishing hill. I went to shift to the


    small

    Quoted message said:

    ring and it wouldn't go. I had to shift back, lost all momentum and had


    to

    Quoted message said:

    grind my way to the finish line.

    I worked on the road bike similarly. Had it working great on the


    workstand.

    Quoted message said:

    Got out this morning to ride it and it wouldn't shift to the small ring.
    When I'd try, the cable would just go slack but the derailleur wouldn't
    move.

    Anybody know what to suggest? I'm really baffled why this has started
    happening all the sudden and why nothing I've tried seems to fix it.

    Thanks,
    --
    Bob C.

    "Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
    T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)

  3. Bill said:

    What was the temperature? If these are older Shimano STI levers the
    internal factory lube slowly turns to glue, strongly influenced by
    temperature. Also the cable lube Shimano provides in the little tube that
    comes with the levers is definitely not cold friendly. May be time for the
    WD40 flush. Start with the cable housings. Wait for the experts to chime in
    before you flush the lever bodies.

    But if the cable is going slack, it would seem that the lever is working.
    Not that I have any idea, except the cleaning that the OP already did.

    Sometimes a front derailleur will not shift down under pressure (that is,
    while climbing hard, such as out of the saddle), but I would imagine that
    the OP would have backed the pressure off once he found that it wasn't
    shifting.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
    _`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
    (_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
    nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

  4. David L. Johnson said:
    Bill said:

    What was the temperature? If these are older Shimano STI levers the
    internal factory lube slowly turns to glue, strongly influenced by
    temperature. Also the cable lube Shimano provides in the little tube that
    comes with the levers is definitely not cold friendly. May be time for the
    WD40 flush. Start with the cable housings. Wait for the experts to chime in
    before you flush the lever bodies.

    But if the cable is going slack, it would seem that the lever is working.
    Not that I have any idea, except the cleaning that the OP already did.

    Sometimes a front derailleur will not shift down under pressure (that is,
    while climbing hard, such as out of the saddle), but I would imagine that
    the OP would have backed the pressure off once he found that it wasn't
    shifting.

    Don't Shimano road FDs go to the inside when there is no tension on
    the cable? With STI on my triple, the small lever acts as a release,
    while to shift up, you have to ratchet it up[not the correct term].

    My guess is that someone will have the answer. But, if it was me, I'd
    disconnect the cable and make sure that the FD moves freely. I'd pull
    it to the outside and see if it is binding.

    For the OP, did you change anything, on both bikes? One bike ok, but
    two bikes, that is odd. Is anyone playing games, with you? I'll bet
    one of the pros will know.

    Life is Good!
    Jeff

  5. psycholist said:

    I took out my time trial bike the other day and, at the foot of a steep
    hill, I shifted to the small ring. Nothing happened except that the cable
    went slack.

    Where did you detect cable slack? The problem is most likely aft of that
    point.

    Did you hear any funny noises?

    Quoted message said:

    I tried a number of shifts. No luck. So I finished the ride
    in the big ring. The next day, I took out my road bike. Unbelieveably, the
    exact same thing happened. These are bikes I ride all the time ... several
    times a week, each.

    Now that's the wierd one.

    I was out riding today, went to shift to the small ring, and nothing
    happened. I didn't see anything wrong, but the cable didn't go slack in
    my case. When I tried to shift a few more times, the cable housing split
    open. So my problem is pretty obvious, unlike yours.

    I wouldn't be surprised to find that the cable routing under the bottom
    bracket was gooped up. I also wouldn't be surprised to hear that you had
    just changed the chanrings to a bigger size, and the derailer was
    encountering the big ring on the downshift under load. It might work on
    the stand, but when you sit on the bike and things begin to flex, the FD
    hits the ring. I would expect that to cause some noise.

    These are really just wild guesses, though. Heck, you might even have
    cracked your frame(s) somewhere. That might cause the symptoms you
    describe. I guess I'm saying it could be just about anything. I think
    you need a second pair of eyes to look at the bike.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  6. Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

    Here's some more info since some questions have been raised. I'm intrigued
    by the theory about the derailleur not clearing the large chainring. On the
    TT bike, I did install a larger chainring and I may not have reset the the
    front derailleur quite high enough. It may look good when the chain isn't
    on the ring. It may be another matter when the chain is trying to hop off
    that ring and move left. Maybe a little more clearance will make a
    difference.

    As for goop under the BB where the cable guides are, I learned about that
    trick some time ago. I always check that area, clean it and keep it lubed.

    Someone brought up temperature. We've just begun having our first cool
    evenings. I'm in South Carolina ... so it's a relative thing. Last night
    we got into the 40s. That shouldn't cause things to seize up.

    I have disconnected the cables completely and determined that the
    derailleurs are moving and the springs are working properly. This, of
    course, leads me to conclude that it's a cable or cable guide issue. The
    wierd part is that the cables are run quite differently between the two
    bikes. We're talking about an STI shifter with housing only up by the
    handlebars on the road bike ... compared to internal cable routing with a
    cable running through housing from the shifters at the end of the aerobars,
    all the way to within inches of the derailleur on the TT bike.

    On the TT bike, when you shift to the small ring, it will go about once
    every 3 tries and, when it does, the end of the cable at the shifter sticks
    up a little bit out of the shifter. You can push it down and the derailleur
    cage will finish moving over to the stop. From all these things I'm
    concluding that it's just time to replace the cables and housings. I'm not
    looking forward to that job given the internal cable routing on the TT
    frame.

    Thanks all,
    -
    Bob C.

    "Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
    T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)
    "psycholist" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    HELP!

    I took out my time trial bike the other day and, at the foot of a steep
    hill, I shifted to the small ring. Nothing happened except that the cable
    went slack. I tried a number of shifts. No luck. So I finished the ride
    in the big ring. The next day, I took out my road bike. Unbelieveably,
    the exact same thing happened. These are bikes I ride all the time ...
    several times a week, each. Cable routing is a bit different and I
    identified a couple of different possible issues on the two bikes. I
    completely removed the one on the TT bike and checked to make sure the
    sprint was working properly. I cleaned the cable, put some lube in the
    end of the housing, etc. When I put it all back together and adjusted it,
    it all worked beautifully on the work stand and also on a quick test ride.
    Then yesterday I had a race (TT) with a steep finishing hill. I went to
    shift to the small ring and it wouldn't go. I had to shift back, lost all
    momentum and had to grind my way to the finish line.

    I worked on the road bike similarly. Had it working great on the
    workstand. Got out this morning to ride it and it wouldn't shift to the
    small ring. When I'd try, the cable would just go slack but the derailleur
    wouldn't move.

    Anybody know what to suggest? I'm really baffled why this has started
    happening all the sudden and why nothing I've tried seems to fix it.

    Thanks,
    --
    Bob C.

    "Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
    T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)

  7. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    HELP!
    I took out my time trial bike the other day and, at the foot of a steep
    hill, I shifted to the small ring. Nothing happened except that the cable
    went slack. I tried a number of shifts. No luck. So I finished the ride
    in the big ring. The next day, I took out my road bike. Unbelieveably, the
    exact same thing happened. These are bikes I ride all the time ... several
    times a week, each. Cable routing is a bit different and I identified a
    couple of different possible issues on the two bikes. I completely removed
    the one on the TT bike and checked to make sure the sprint was working
    properly. I cleaned the cable, put some lube in the end of the housing,
    etc. When I put it all back together and adjusted it, it all worked
    beautifully on the work stand and also on a quick test ride. Then yesterday
    I had a race (TT) with a steep finishing hill. I went to shift to the small
    ring and it wouldn't go. I had to shift back, lost all momentum and had to
    grind my way to the finish line.
    I worked on the road bike similarly. Had it working great on the workstand.
    Got out this morning to ride it and it wouldn't shift to the small ring.
    When I'd try, the cable would just go slack but the derailleur wouldn't
    move.
    Anybody know what to suggest? I'm really baffled why this has started
    happening all the sudden and why nothing I've tried seems to fix it.

    Do you have a sweet drink in you water bottle? I know that when I use gatorade
    in my bottles, some of it leaks out and drips down the downtube onto the BB
    shell and slowly builds up when the cable passes and that causes shifting
    issues. I wash it down with somewater and the problem is fixed.
    ----------------
    Alex

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