Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Interesting Fit "Problem"

Started by My_Aching_Fiets · · Last activity · 4 posts · 801 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
7 October 2005
Last activity
7 October 2005
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My_Aching_Fiets
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  1. Frame 1995 Specialized Epic. No frame damage, never been crashed. Ridden every day.

    Previous wheelset: Mavic Open Pro / Ultegra hubs. New in 2003.

    New Wheelset: Bontrager Select ($weet deal at LBS)

    Problem: The rear dropouts are a tiny bit narrow (maybe 1 to 1.5 millimeters) for the Bontrager hub, and I had to nudge to rear triangle out ever-so-slightly (using pressure from two fingers - certainly no tools were needed) to seat the wheel in the dropouts.

    The resulting ride was fine - no twitchiness, tracks a straight line like a champ, even while "no-hands" riding. Not the slightest bit of negative impact on the ride from my perspective.

    Question 1: Why? Aren't all standard road hubs made to the same width?

    Question 2: What to do? Do modern hubs come with any spacer washers that can be removed like in the "old days"?

    Any input would be appreciated.

  2. My_Aching_Fiets said:

    What to do?

    Use the wheels as the are. The slight widening of the frame to accomodate the wheel will be no problem-a minor inconvenience when putting the wheel back in, but no problem.

  3. Ride it!!!!

    It wasn't until I got involved in the forums that I even realized that bikes had standard spacing.

    Back in the day (translated long ago, in a land far away), I assumed that the rear dropouts were intentionally wider than the wheels I used so that the wheel nuts could pull them together after the wheel had easily slid in. (Does anyone else remember the pre-quick release days?)

    I have seen forum entries about gently bending each of the rear stays to accomodate a different sized hub (either narrower or wider) in the non-tensioned state. I had already decided that I would let the bike find its own center if I ever mounted a wheel with a hub width difference... This in fact seems like a valid approach unless the chain stays and seat stays are non-symmetric... (don't count the derailleur hanger, just the stays themselves)

    Since your experiment shows no tracking issues, and I assume no significant chain alignment differences (the other potential issue), I would say it tends to confirm my hypothesis.

    If you were talking a few cm or more, I would have only minor hesitation in suggesting it to you, and would still just muscle it if it were mine. However, in the 1 - 2 mm range, I think you are well within tolerances for good handling and safety by almost anyone's standards.

  4. Hey, thanks to both of you guys!

    I appreciate it!

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