dumb question?

mark75k9 said:

this might be a stupid question but im new so forgive me but, which is better or is is there no difference. 700c or 27 inch wheels/tires

New stuff is all 700c, and is basically what you have to have to get 9 or 10 speed,but a 10 speed hub could be built to a 27" wheel if anyone really cared enough to do. That ought to give you a clue. 27" is ok on a beater or comuter if you already have it and want to save money on converting to 700c.

Some further reading on wheels and tyres: http://sheldonbrown.com/wheels/index.html

gclark8 said:

Some further reading on wheels and tyres: sheldonbrown.comindex.htmlOpen ↗

thanks that is an excellent source of info but how can i find out what is on my bike currently. there are no markings on the wheels and the only thing on the tire says 300g 22mm continental brand

If you read your other post/topic, you told us they were tubulars and 27", with the rim diameter of 25". Whats the problem? Buy some new 27" conti, or any other brand, 27" tubulars... 🙄

mark75k9 said:

thanks that is an excellent source of info but how can i find out what is on my bike currently. there are no markings on the wheels and the only thing on the tire says 300g 22mm continental brand

Didn't you also say they were tubulars on another thread? Why don't you take it to a bike shop so someone, hopefully not a nose pinking kid ,can look at it?.... And this question sure as hell seems to be totally unrelated to the original question. Always best lead with the real question... 🙄

boudreaux said:

Didn't you also say they were tubulars on another thread? Why don't you take it to a bike shop so someone, hopefully not a nose pinking kid ,can look at it?.... And this question sure as hell seems to be totally unrelated to the original question. Always best lead with the real question... 🙄

i was asking the question because i was going to replace the wheelset because the rear hub is cracked and didnt know if it was worth it to switch. sorry for the confusion/bother:o

mark75k9 said:

i was asking the question because i was going to replace the wheelset because the rear hub is cracked and didnt know if it was worth it to switch. sorry for the confusion/bother:o

That's certainly a whole different fish.But switching sizes between 27" and 700c involves other considerations like brake reach,brake reach being the usuall booger. As already stated 700c is the current road standard, easy to find and lots of options,but that does not mean it fits your particular pistol.One other consideration being current 700c wheels will be 8/9/10 shimano cassette compatible or usable with a 7 speed shimano HG cassette with a spacer. Campy compatible wheels will be 9/10 compatible. It's also possible to dig up 700c that will take a freewheel.

boudreaux said:

That's certainly a whole different fish.But switching sizes between 27" and 700c involves other considerations like brake reach,brake reach being the usuall booger. As already stated 700c is the current road standard, easy to find and lots of options,but that does not mean it fits your particular pistol.One other consideration being current 700c wheels will be 8/9/10 shimano cassette compatible or usable with a 7 speed shimano HG cassette with a spacer. Campy compatible wheels will be 9/10 compatible. It's also possible to dig up 700c that will take a freewheel.

thanks, right now i'm a dry sponge just soaking up info

mark75k9 said:

thanks, right now i'm a dry sponge just soaking up info

Everything these days is integrated, if you change one thing then there is a knock-on effect that means that you may have to replace the rest.
Some old frames are worth hanging the latest groupsets on and the difference between 27" and 700c is not huge, my old bike (for instance) made the transition without problems. But before you spend the money on new stuff you have to ask whether it is that a good frame, and whether the dimensions of the rear triangle will accommodate a 700c wheel with a 9 or 10 speed hub; some just won't.
Of course, you can avoid groupsets and mix-and-match if you retain down-tube friction shifters, and only replace the bits that need it with something similar to what you had. This will be less expensive but you won't end up with a bike that you can race on, because high-end components are not made for obsolete bikes.