Road Cycling · Public discussion

Positioning SPD Cleats

Started by Roger Zoul · · Last activity · 13 posts · 668 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Road Cycling
Published
23 September 2005
Last activity
24 September 2005
Original author
Roger Zoul
Posts
13
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
668
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–13 of 13
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
    SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
    my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
    now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
    position so as to avoid any potential knee problems? (I don't have a trainer
    handy). (Since I bought the shoes online I don't feel good about going into
    the LBS, even though I went there looking to see if they had any better
    shoes than the ones I have, and there were all about out of any type of road
    shoe). One Zinn book I have says it's best to have the LBS do this provided
    they have fit kit. Is that so?

    I guess I'll do some short rides tomorrow while trying to get these
    tweaked....

  2. My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
    experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
    Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
    place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on the
    old shoes.
    Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
    place them approximately and then tweak them.
    But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
    LBS.

  3. My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
    experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
    Unless the new shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
    place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on the
    old shoes.
    Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
    place them approximately and then tweak them.
    But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
    LBS.

  4. gds <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
    :> experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
    :> Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
    :> place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on
    :> the old shoes.
    :> Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
    :> place them approximately and then tweak them.
    :> But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
    :> LBS.

    I hear what you're saying and that's probably what I'll do, but in the
    meantime, how do I gain experience? I really don't like depending on the
    LBS for stuff I feel I can do....

  5. Roger Zoul said:

    I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
    SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
    my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
    now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
    position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?

    Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the pedal
    spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust the angle
    of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for you (which
    may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket science; no
    need to pay a LBS to do this.

    After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
    hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.

    Art Harris

  6. Roger,

    I'm with Art on this one. Shouldn't have to pay an LBS for this. The
    "neutral" position is the one that puts the pedal spindle directly under the
    ball of your foot. Start there and see if you feel like you need to move it
    a little forward or a little backward. I've heard that crit racers prefer
    it one way and road racers prefer it another. I usually stick with the
    neutral position myself.

    Put on your touring shoes and see if you can get an idea where the ball of
    your foot is relative to the spindle. If you like that "feel," try to match
    it on the new shoes. You may have to tweak over the course of a few rides,
    but what else is new.

    Good luck.

    --
    Bob C.

    "Of course it hurts. The trick is not minding that it hurts."
    T. E. Lawrence (of Arabia)
    "Arthur Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Roger Zoul said:

    I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install
    some SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road
    shoes that my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for
    about 1.5 years now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats
    in the right position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?

    Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the
    pedal spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust
    the angle of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for
    you (which may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket
    science; no need to pay a LBS to do this.

    After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
    hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.

    Art Harris

  7. There are obviously lots of opinions and probably no "right" answer.

    I'll just add to my comments above that what intially "felt right" to
    me turned out to be wrong biomechanically. I have no argument with the
    position that with a bit of experience (and some guidance) you could do
    this yourself. But with NO experience I think the chance of getting it
    right is low enough that it is worth the $$.

  8. Roger Zoul said:

    gds <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> My rec is that you pay the LBS to fit the cleats. If you are not
    :> experienced it is likely you will not get it right.
    :> Unless the nes shoes are similar enough to what you have that you can
    :> place thenew cleats on the new shoes similarly to the old cleats on
    :> the old shoes.
    :> Another unless is--if you never have knee problems you may be able to
    :> place them approximately and then tweak them.
    :> But when I buy new shoes I always get a FIT Kit cleat placement at my
    :> LBS.

    I hear what you're saying and that's probably what I'll do, but in the
    meantime, how do I gain experience? I really don't like depending on the
    LBS for stuff I feel I can do....

    A couple of ideas.
    First, I think that experience is just that, so as you indicate you can
    only get it by doing it. But most cleat fitting is done on a trainer
    for the obvious ease of stop/start, on/off and safety. You indicated
    that you don't have a trainer so you are starting out with a big
    disadvantage in getting going.

    Once you have a set of cleats fit correctly you can mark their location
    on your shoes with nail polish or some other type of marker. Then you
    can play with fine tuning from that start point and always be able to
    return to the base position. Such markings will also aid you in getting
    a start point on a new pair.

    The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your cleats
    and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee injury to
    get back. So, I guess my major rec if you want to learn to do this is
    have someone who is experienced show yo how and get yourself access to
    a trainer. I do think it is a matter of experience rather than
    complicated science.

    My cleat position is quite unusual on one side as an old hip injury
    results in a foot position that works well for me but is far from
    "normal." Almost all bike shop folks look at my old shoes and tellme
    they are going to "cahnge that funky right foot." Of course, thye wind
    up seeing that it actually works.

    And when you get really experienced even the help of a FIT kit becomes
    less necessary. There is a local racer/ bike shop owner who fits
    clients purely by watching them ride (on a trainer). His fit is the
    best I have ever had. That said he was really fine tuning an already
    fitted pair.

    Good luck!! But don't risk getting hurt.

  9. 23 Sep 2005 17:03:56 -0700,
    <[email hidden]>,

    gds said:

    The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your cleats
    and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee injury to
    get back.

    Take the proper wrench so you can adjust them on the road at the first
    signs of problems, whether you're dialing them in for yourself or just
    in case the LBS guy missed.

    Also, in all this adjusting process, make absolutely certain that the
    screws are tight. (Don't bust those cheese screws though)
    With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.
    --
    zk

  10. Zoot Katz <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> 23 Sep 2005 17:03:56 -0700,
    :> <[email hidden]>,
    :> "gds" <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :>
    :>>The trainer also minimizes the chance that you will mis fit your
    :>>cleats and find yourself far from home and needing to risk a knee
    :>>injury to get back.
    :>
    :> Take the proper wrench so you can adjust them on the road at the
    :> first signs of problems, whether you're dialing them in for yourself
    :> or just in case the LBS guy missed.

    Yes, I keep wrenches in my underseat bag....

    :>
    :> Also, in all this adjusting process, make absolutely certain that the
    :> screws are tight. (Don't bust those cheese screws though)
    :> With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.

    That's scary!!!

  11. psycholist <[email hidden]> wrote:
    :> Roger,
    :>
    :> I'm with Art on this one. Shouldn't have to pay an LBS for this.
    :> The "neutral" position is the one that puts the pedal spindle
    :> directly under the ball of your foot. Start there and see if you
    :> feel like you need to move it a little forward or a little backward.
    :> I've heard that crit racers prefer it one way and road racers prefer
    :> it another. I usually stick with the neutral position myself.
    :>
    :> Put on your touring shoes and see if you can get an idea where the
    :> ball of your foot is relative to the spindle. If you like that
    :> "feel," try to match it on the new shoes. You may have to tweak
    :> over the course of a few rides, but what else is new.

    I tried it for a bit early....they seemed to be in a good position. I'll
    play with it a bit tomorrow out at Donaldson....I'll also take my other
    shoes just in case I don't get them set right....

  12. Fri, 23 Sep 2005 20:58:09 -0400, <[email hidden]>,

    Roger Zoul said:

    :> With loose cleats you'll not be able to twist out to diengage.

    That's scary!!!

    Let's say it's a white-knucke experience and you won't enjoy it.
    --
    zk

  13. Arthur Harris said:
    Roger Zoul said:

    I've got a pair of Lake CX120 touring shoes that I'm about to install some
    SPD cleats on. I already have a pair of Specialized Sonoma road shoes that
    my LBS installed the cleats on. I've been using them for about 1.5 years
    now. My question is how do I know if I have the cleats in the right
    position so as to avoid any potential knee problems?

    Adjust the cleats so the ball of your foot is either directly over the pedal
    spindle or _slightly_ forward of the pedal spindle. Then, adjust the angle
    of the cleats so that your toes point in a natural direction for you (which
    may be straight ahead, or slightly out or in). It's not rocket science; no
    need to pay a LBS to do this.

    After you get the positioning right, make sure to tighten the cleats down
    hard, then re-check tightness after a few days.

    I agree with Art, it's not rocket science. I'd go so far as to say
    you're better off doing it yourself than having the LBS do it. It's all
    about trial & error. There's no way to predict whether you'll like a
    toe-in or out position or how far back you like your cleat. Take an
    Allen wrench with you and try different settings as you ride around.

    Besides forward/back and toe-in/out, SPD cleats usually allow a little
    side-to-side. I like to set this so my weight is precisely balanced on
    the (relatively small) cleat.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.