Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

V-brake questions

Started by Ben Pearre · · Last activity · 2 posts · 422 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
13 September 2005
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13 September 2005
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Ben Pearre
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  1. Hi all!

    A few random questions about direct-pulls ("V-brakes"😉. I'd like to
    upgrade both the pads and the brakes themselves:

    The bike in question is a lowracer 'bent (see the picture at the top
    of http://hebb.mit.edu/~ben/bike). I currently have really impossible
    Odyssey "A-brakes": the only way to adjust the centering is to screw
    one brake on to the boss more tightly; and the distal end of the brake
    cable is attached using an annoying screw-on cylinder that mangles the
    cable so badly that _any_ further cable adjustment requires installing
    a new cable!

    1) New brakes: Good ol' lowracers--the chain is routed right next to
    the brakes, both fore and aft. That means that at least the front
    brake must be narrower than normal so that the chain does not rub
    against the brake lever--see the closeup at
    http://hebb.mit.edu/~ben/bike/front_brake_closeup.JPG, and both
    front and rear need a left-side cable exit. That is the one
    redeeming feature of the Odysseys. Any recommendations on better-
    designed brakes that might serve? At least I promise never to run
    fat, knobby tires (1.75" slicks now, probably 1.5" slicks next).

    2) New pads: stopping power is important--there's no way I can throw
    myself over the handlebars by braking too hard--but wet-weather
    performance is not absolutely crucial (I live in Colorado).

    My reading of http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html
    suggests that the KoolStop dual compound has less stopping power
    but less potential for squealing than the all-salmon. Is that the
    only difference? I love quiet brakes in spite of their lack of an
    audible warning system: when would I want the all-salmons and when
    the dual-compounds?

    3) I just picked up a set of Avid refillaboe-cartridge-type pads and
    holders. This seems to be a great idea for pads that need to be
    replaced frequently, but the cost saving is fairly minor and
    adjusting brakes isn't a huge deal. Are there other advantages,
    such as a full metal jacket giving more control over the pad?
    (ie. should I pick up another pair of these or ditch the ones I'm
    running?)

    4) If I want re-usable holders, where do I buy a good pair? What
    style is "best" (for some value of "best"...)? The ones I own are
    Avid (presumably Shimano-style?) (I got them with a secondhand
    brakeset in an experiment that otherwise failed on account of
    problems (1) above).

    5) I assume that the fact that the brake pads are curved for a 26" or
    700c wheel, whereas I'm running a 20" front, doesn't really matter?

    Many thanks for reading!
    -Ben

    Please excuse my email-address mangling...

    --
    Ben Pearre http://hebb.mit.edu/~ben PGP: CFDA6CDA
    Free music at http://hebb.mit.edu/FreeMusic
    Don't let Bush read your email! http://www.gnupg.org

  2. O

    Quoted message said:

    1) New brakes: Good ol' lowracers--the chain is routed right next to
    the brakes, both fore and aft. That means that at least the front
    brake must be narrower than normal so that the chain does not rub
    against the brake lever--see the closeup at
    http://hebb.mit.edu/~ben/bike/front_brake_closeup.JPG, and both
    front and rear need a left-side cable exit. That is the one
    redeeming feature of the Odysseys. Any recommendations on better-
    designed brakes that might serve? At least I promise never to run
    fat, knobby tires (1.75" slicks now, probably 1.5" slicks next).

    the closeness of the chainring looks like a real pain. there are on
    three brakes on the market that have reversible noodles. the cane
    creek direct curve won't work as it really sticks out. avid ultimate's
    and the Paul component.
    http://www.paulcomp.com/motolite.html
    this may be the best bet. if you remove the spacers that are between
    the pad and the shaft you can get them pointed in more.
    plus they have reversible noodles and they are the most powerful v
    brakes out there. plus they give you great modulation. I really love
    mine. but they are also the most expensive v brakes.

    Quoted message said:

    2) New pads: stopping power is important--there's no way I can throw
    myself over the handlebars by braking too hard--but wet-weather
    performance is not absolutely crucial (I live in Colorado).

    see above these are the best hands down.

    Quoted message said:

    3) I just picked up a set of Avid refillaboe-cartridge-type pads and
    holders. This seems to be a great idea for pads that need to be
    replaced frequently, but the cost saving is fairly minor and
    adjusting brakes isn't a huge deal. Are there other advantages,
    such as a full metal jacket giving more control over the pad?
    (ie. should I pick up another pair of these or ditch the ones I'm
    running?)


    nothing wrong with the koolstop refillable's. though sometimes getting
    the pads out is a bear. the pauls come with refillable's too.
    but I go back to solid pads as they are thicker and cost a bit less.
    it's so easy to set up the pauls brakes it's not a big deal to change
    the whole thing.
    Knight-Toolworks
    http://www.knight-toolworks.com
    affordable handmade wooden planes

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