rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

fording rivers advice please

Started by mikepenton · · Last activity · 16 posts · 509 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
5 September 2005
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6 September 2005
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mikepenton
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  1. I'm back in hot & humid London after a hot & humid break in Dorset. Give
    me the latter any day.
    Went for a limited number of rides, but the most notable was at Moreton,
    where a warm evening ride ended at a 50 metre wide ford with a
    footbridge alongside. It had to be done (ok, you've got the gist already
    - tried).
    The current was not particularly fast. I could recover the 29er lazily
    floating off downstream at a fast walking pace after spectacular, fun
    and cooling UPDs.
    The shallowest route I could find across covered the pedals at the top
    of the stroke (or maybe some more) for just a few metres.
    No matter what I tried, from either bank I could not manage that deepest
    section.
    Anything below the axle was fine, so next time I will be trying the
    Coker.

    Does any one have any advice for riding through water?
    thanks
    Mike

    --
    mikepenton - sometimes level
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  2. Sounds like fun. I have no idea how to forge deep water while riding.
    I've only gone axle-deep.

    Did you try angling your craft upstream. Even a little current will
    knock you off balance.

    Be sure to thoroughly dismantle and dry off your machine. Those bearings
    will get rusty and squeek and drag. Remember WD40? The WD stands for
    "water displacement". At the very least, soak those bearings in WD40.
    Solicit advice from other, more fastidious mechanics on these forums who
    might have better methods.

    --
    Memphis Mud - Student of GrandMaster 2T

    NAUCC 2006 in Memphis, TN.
    Beale Street. Graceland. Blues Music. BBQ. Deep woods MUni. Rolling
    Crosscountry. Jump over the Mississippi River (really!).
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  3. Memphis Mud said:

    *Remember WD40?*


    It's also a degreasant, so it'll get rid of the water nicely, but you
    will then need to re-grease the bearings to stop them being ruined.

    Might be better to just drop a bit of oil on them, but then my attitude
    to maintenance is generally 'ignore it and it might go away' varying to
    'drip some oil on it and it'll be fine' in cases whichr equire a mjor
    strip down, clean, grease and re-assembly. It's working so far...

    As for fords - it's easier in the dark, because the lights shine on the
    bottom so that you can see it, rather than just seeing a reflection of
    whatever's on the opposite bank during the day. Possibly. My only other
    advice is use the bridge, but that's dull.

    John

    --
    johnhimsworth - Nullus Anxietas

    What if the hokey cokey really is what it's all about?
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  4. On the water in the bearings issue:

    I posted a request for advice about replacing bearings recently, but
    then I simply regreased the ones I had. I decided that my unicycle has
    doen a few hundred miles, and that my bicycle used to do many more than
    that before the bearings needed replacing.

    All I did was this:
    Drop the wheel out of the frame.
    Use a tiny screwdriver to carefully lift the rubber ring out of the
    bearing unit.
    Rinse the bearing thoroughly to remove grit. (using an aerosol spray
    such as WD40 would help to blast out any grit or dust.)
    Allow the bearing to dry.
    Add grease. I used motorcycle chain lube which again has the advantage
    of being aerosol, and which is formulated not to damage the rubber O
    rings in a motorcycle chain, so won't damage the rubber seals in a
    unicycle wheel.
    Replace the rubber ring, carefully.
    reassemble.

    There was no need to remove the bearing cage or the balls.

    OK, so maybe a full overhall would be even better, but this worked for
    me, and got rid of an irritating noise,

    It's a simple job. 20 minutes at most.

    As for riding fords. The problems will be:
    Hydrodynamic drag on the wheel.
    The uneven bed of the ford, shifting under the tyre.
    The buoyancy of the tyre, reducing your grip.
    Any cross current that might knock you off course.

    Drag will ebb much lower if you ride slowly.

    You will be less affected by uneven ground under the wheel if you stand
    on the pedals and ride slowly.

    The buoyancy problem will get worse, the deeper the water is, as you
    attempt to submerge more of the tyre. Look at the shape of the tyre to
    see how this is NOT a straight line graph. Stand on the pedals to keep
    as much of yourself out of the water as possible.

    Aim upstream to counteract the effects of the current.

    It's easy to say these things. I've never done it for real in anything
    deeper than about 6 - 8 inches. Accept that it is a game. You may win,
    you may lose.

    But do dry the uni thoroughly - most forks are hollow at the bottom and
    water will get into the frame there. The seat tube is also hollow, as
    is the seat post. The bearings need greasing. Lots of WD 40.

    WDs 1 - 39 were not nearly so good.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    The poor lack much, the greedy, everything.
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  5. Ball bearings need grease - not oil. Grease will stay in place for much
    longer while oil will evaporate. Grease will hold back water better than
    oil. When cleaning bearings, pull them off the axle and let them soak in
    a degreaser (preferably biodegradable!) let them dry and remove any
    grit. Check the races for uneven wear and then put ample of grease
    inside the bearing before resealing it.

    --
    goldenchicken II - There is more to cycling

    Olaf Johansson

    www.enhjulingsfolket.se
    www.muni.se
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  6. An amendement to what I wrote earlier.

    I just took my 20 apart with a view to rinsing and re-greasing the
    bearings, only to find that they were totally different from the
    bearings on my 28.

    The two unis are the same "brand" from the same supplier. however it is
    no surprise that a fairly budget model should be put together with
    whatever parts are available at that time. The 28 has the
    cheaper-looking bearings that are easy to open. the 20 has ones that
    seem to be much better sealed. I can't (easily) clean and grease them,
    but presumably they will keep the dirt and water out better.

    After all, how often do you clean and grease the wheel bearings on your
    car or motorbike? Every few thousand miles, although they carry more
    load and work at higher revs and temperatures, in all weathers.

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    The poor lack much, the greedy, everything.
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  7. I had some strange noises from my muni a month ago, so off with the
    bearings and on with a new pair. The noise was gone. Here the bearings
    cost only 2.60 $ (£1.50) each so its no big deal. But just to be safe I
    opened the bearings before putting them on to make sure they were
    properly greased.

    Some bearings are quite impossible to open without destroying the 'lid'.
    Look for the ones with rubber seals.

    --
    goldenchicken II - There is more to cycling

    Olaf Johansson

    www.enhjulingsfolket.se
    www.muni.se
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  8. hmmm...
    next time I'll bring the Muni & Coker as well. lower tyre pressure would
    probably help the traction & bouyancy.

    riding after dark would naturally mean lighting the uni for retrieval
    purposes too (imagine losing a uni that way? oh the shame!). It does
    make drying off in the sunshine afterwards a bit more difficult.

    --
    mikepenton - sometimes level
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  9. I imagine going REALLY fast may help, or result in an early
    bath...
    maybe the boomerang uni, if ridden at high speed would
    simpley skim across the top of the water, jesus sandels,
    flowing hair and beard would probably be required too!

    I rode my uni on the beach at Filey on the weekend and rode through the
    waves as they washed the sands, it was a great baywatch moment, just
    needed one of those funny red things over my shoulder and a hairy
    chest..

    It was great...
    in fact the whole scarborough wkend was great

    Andy P

    Some people stand in the darkness
    Afraid to step into the light
    Some people need to help somebody
    When the edge of surrender's in sight..

    --
    andyparry
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  10. andyparry said:

    *I rode my uni on the beach at Filey on the weekend and rode through
    the waves as they washed the sands...*

    Cor... the bearings have it hard with just water, let alone salt and
    sand.

    Does the wheel still turn?

    Phil

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    Good, bad... I'm the guy with the Cattle Prod.
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  11. andyparry said:

    *... it was a great baywatch moment... *

    That's not what it looked like from where we were standing :p

    --
    unicus - I need to change this

    'Photos' (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Photos-from-unicus)
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  12. phil said:

    *Cor... the bearings have it hard with just water, let alone salt and
    sand.

    Does the wheel still turn?

    Phil *

    it did last night, i was only in 4 - 6 inches of water...
    i think i'll give a bit of an overhaul this weekend though :o)

    --
    andyparry
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  13. mikepenton said:

    * lower tyre pressure would probably help the traction & bouyancy.
    *


    Not with the buoyancy unless the tyre was so flat it collapsed under
    the water pressure. Buoyancy is to do with displacement of water, and
    the same amount of water will be displaced whether they tyre is at 20
    psi or 120 psi. In fact, and this is not a joke, the wheel will be
    heavier at high pressure due to the additional weight of the air.

    I used to be a diver, and we had to adjust our weight for how much air
    would be in the tank at the *end* of a dive, not the beginning. Of
    course, the pressures there are much higher.

    There might be a slight decrease in buoyancy caused by the very slight
    reduction in displacement caused by the bottom of the tyre distorting
    against the bottom of the river. If the pressure was so low that the
    amount of distortion was noticeable increased, as soon as you rode out
    of the water, and lost th ebuoyancy, your tyre would be too soft.

    --
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    The poor lack much, the greedy, everything.
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  14. I've ridden in a couple of lakes with my old unicycle (now with a broken
    hub). Afterwards I just Gunk Liquid wrenched (similar to Wd40) the whole
    unicycle, and tried to saturated bearing housings with it. I did not
    disassemble the unicycle. I also using the unicycle in the following
    winter so to prevent rust I would wipe the uni down then coated the
    entire uni in the same Liquid wrenched; at the end of the winter, still
    no rust and everything was working correctly.

    Since I have my KH20 I haven't tried it in water any water deeper then a
    few inches but for an old uni, Liquid wrench seemed to work to keep it
    riding normally after the submersion.

    The deepest I managed to ride was just about waist deep. Even that deep
    is hard because of the water giving you resistance and slowing you down.
    Where I rode there was a sand bottom I'm sure rocks would be way harder
    to ride on, once I was out deep enough I just concentrated on each half
    revolution and tried to keep going however slowly; that seemed to help
    me. The unicycle had a seat post made from a very heavy iron pipe; I
    think that helped to counteract the buoyancy factor. Have you tried
    riding carrying some weights?

    --
    UNIquelyCanadian - 157 cm sidehop > ;-)

    There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive
    idiots.
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  15. UNIquelyCanadian said:

    * Have you tried riding carrying some weights? *

    e.g. a really heavy helmet - with the added bonus that if you did fall
    off, it could save your life...😄

    --
    Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

    The poor lack much, the greedy, everything.
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  16. Mikefule said:

    *e.g. a really heavy helmet - with the added bonus that if you did
    fall off, it could save your life...😄 *

    That goes without saying, except the heavy part. 🙂

    P.S. Let's stay off the helmet issue, ok?

    Sooo, Have you tried riding carrying some weights to counteract the
    buoyancy factor?🙂

    --
    UNIquelyCanadian - 157 cm sidehop > ;-)

    There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive
    idiots.
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