It's alive!!!

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 00:49:20 GMT, Bill Hamilton <[email hidden]> posted:

Quoted message said:

Well, the beast I'm calling Grendel is completed. Everything works, I managed to go down the block
under my own power. Wheee!

Unfortunately, the pedal boom is twisting within its clamps, which obviously is a problem. I think
I have a solution, but I wanted to see if anyone else has tried it before I start cutting.

I'm planning to grind a notch in the side of the pedal boom down its length, about 1/32" or so
deep. I'll then drill a pair of holes in the main boom (that the pedal boom slides and clamps into)
aligned with this notch so that the pedal boom is the right height. Some thin wire (16 gauge or so)
will be placed inside the boom sticking out the two holes, then folded over to hold in place. This
should (I hope) key the two together so the pedal boom can't rotate anymore.

Has anyone else tried this solution? If so, did it work, or fail dramatically?

I will be using square heavy aluminium tube for the main boom and using two bolts at right angles
right through the middle when adjusted for correct length. Unless anyone can convince me it is the
wrong thing to do 🙂

Bill Hamilton <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Well, the beast I'm calling Grendel is completed. Everything works, I managed to go down the block
under my own power. Wheee!

Unfortunately, the pedal boom is twisting within its clamps, which obviously is a problem. I think
I have a solution, but I wanted to see if anyone else has tried it before I start cutting.

I'm planning to grind a notch in the side of the pedal boom down its length, about 1/32" or so
deep. I'll then drill a pair of holes in the main boom (that the pedal boom slides and clamps
into) aligned with this notch so that the pedal boom is the right height. Some thin wire (16 gauge
or so) will be placed inside the boom sticking out the two holes, then folded over to hold in
place. This should (I hope) key the two together so the pedal boom can't rotate anymore.

Has anyone else tried this solution? If so, did it work, or fail dramatically?

-Bill Hamilton

Not knowing exactly your situation I can make what I think is an easier suggestion. If you are using
a telescoping boom, wherein one tube slides inside another, with a slot and pinch bolt on the outer.
Why not put a pin into the inner tube that lines up with the slot on the outer tube? That way it is
keyed, and you have the length of the slot to adjust boom length. Or, adjust it to the length you
need, drill a hole thru both thicknesses and put a bolt in. If you have several bits of shim
material between the telescoping pieces, make them as one with the outer tube and the slipping may
cease. I had a similar problem, initially, with my latest trike. I used a piece of stainless steel
sheet the appropriate thickness formed into a sleeve. It was not fastened to either tube, and
allowed them to slide. Eventually, I silver brazed it into the larger tube, and it no longer slips.

cheers, rorschandt

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Rorschandt
Bill Hamilton <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Well, the beast I'm calling Grendel is completed. Everything works, I managed to go down the block
under my own power. Wheee!

Unfortunately, the pedal boom is twisting within its clamps, which obviously is a problem. I think
I have a solution, but I wanted to see if anyone else has tried it before I start cutting.

I'm planning to grind a notch in the side of the pedal boom down its length, about 1/32" or so
deep. I'll then drill a pair of holes in the main boom (that the pedal boom slides and clamps
into) aligned with this notch so that the pedal boom is the right height. Some thin wire (16 gauge
or so) will be placed inside the boom sticking out the two holes, then folded over to hold in
place. This should (I hope) key the two together so the pedal boom can't rotate anymore.

Has anyone else tried this solution? If so, did it work, or fail dramatically?

-Bill Hamilton

Not knowing exactly your situation I can make what I think is an easier suggestion. If you are using
a telescoping boom, wherein one tube slides inside another, with a slot and pinch bolt on the outer.
Why not put a pin into the inner tube that lines up with the slot on the outer tube? That way it is
keyed, and you have the length of the slot to adjust boom length. Or, adjust it to the length you
need, drill a hole thru both thicknesses and put a bolt in. If you have several bits of shim
material between the telescoping pieces, make them as one with the outer tube and the slipping may
cease. I had a similar problem, initially, with my latest trike. I used a piece of stainless steel
sheet the appropriate thickness formed into a sleeve. It was not fastened to either tube, and
allowed them to slide. Eventually, I silver brazed it into the larger tube, and it no longer slips.

cheers, rorschandt

One handy little trick is to place a piece of plastic drink bottle between the two tubes... weird but it does seem to work well.
Any old softdrink bottle will do 😄

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a small tab
that fits in the boom.

John Riley

"Moosh:]" <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

I will be using square heavy aluminium tube for the main boom and using two bolts at right angles
right through the middle when adjusted for correct length. Unless anyone can convince me it is the
wrong thing to do 🙂

I thought of that, but unfortunately it is a bit late to do that for this bike.

-Bill Hamilton

NuTz4BiKeZ <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

One handy little trick is to place a piece of plastic drink bottle between the two tubes... weird
but it does seem to work well. Any old softdrink bottle will do 😄

Tried that when I realized it would be too lose, but it's not quite enough.

-Bill Hamilton

"Bill Hamilton" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

NuTz4BiKeZ <[email hidden]> wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

One handy little trick is to place a piece of plastic drink bottle between the two tubes...
weird but it does seem to work well. Any old softdrink bottle will do 😄

Tried that when I realized it would be too lose, but it's not quite

enough.

Quoted message said:

-Bill Hamilton

I use sunfilm for car windows - use the reflective type and leave 1/8 inch visible and you have a
nice crome finish. Use a layer or two more than you think is nescessary. Nice for seperating the alu
boom from the steelframe too - it could be a mess in wintertime with salt on the roads.

Torben

john riley said:

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a small
tab that fits in the boom.

What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test rode did not have this
feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated approximately 1/4 turn when I
tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

Quoted message said:

john riley said:

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a small
tab that fits in the boom.

Tom Sez: What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test rode did not have
this feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated approximately 1/4 turn when
I tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

I Sez: I had a 98 vision.I ordered all parts to make it USS ASS LWB SWB .The SWB boom did not have
the slot/groove while the LWB boom
did.With out the groove on the LWB boom the front end[wheel,fork,head tube bottom bracket and pedal
chain ring assy] would suddenly flop over for a Major wipe out. I kept the LWB boom on even
though the bike stayed a SWB just to keep the boom from twisting.

Quoted message said:

Nice for seperating the alu boom from the steelframe too - it could be a mess in wintertime with
salt on the roads.

I wonder if the resulting galvanic reaction would drive a headlight?

"Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

john riley said:

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a small
tab that fits in the boom.

What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test rode did not have this
feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated approximately 1/4 turn when I
tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

I don't have one on my R50 either, I think the only one that does is the long wheelbased model which
is required

"Bill B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

john riley said:

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a
small tab that fits in the boom.

Tom Sez: What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test rode did not have
this feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated approximately 1/4 turn
when I tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

I Sez: I had a 98 vision.I ordered all parts to make it USS ASS LWB SWB .The SWB boom did not have
the slot/groove while the LWB boom
did.With out the groove on the LWB boom the front end[wheel,fork,head tube bottom bracket and
pedal chain ring assy] would suddenly flop over for a Major wipe out. I kept the LWB boom on
even though the bike stayed a SWB just to keep the boom from twisting.

That groove is only on that model not on anything else Vision makes

"GeoB" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Nice for seperating the alu boom from the steelframe too - it could be a mess in wintertime with
salt on the roads.

I wonder if the resulting galvanic reaction would drive a headlight?

;-) It might have to drive the bike, if it was allowed to continue for some time..

I have a 2002 Vision R-50 and the boom is grooved

William L. Higley, Sr. "Mark Leuck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

john riley said:

Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp on the frame that has a
small tab that fits in the boom.

What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test rode did not have this
feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated approximately 1/4 turn when I
tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

I don't have one on my R50 either, I think the only one that does is the long wheelbased model
which is required

"William Higley, Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I have a 2002 Vision R-50 and the boom is grooved

William L. Higley, Sr. "Mark Leuck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

john riley wrote:
>
> Vision bikes have a grooved boom. This is held in place by a clamp

on

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> the frame that has a small tab that fits in the boom.

What model year did this change take place? The 98 R-40 I once test

rode

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

did not have this feature, as I learned when the improperly tightened boom rotated
approximately 1/4 turn when I tried to get started.

Tom Sherman - Quad Cities USA (Illinois side)

I don't have one on my R50 either, I think the only one that does is the long wheelbased model
which is required

Mine is a 2000 doesn't, they must have added it later?

Mark Leuck said:

"William Higley, Sr." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I have a 2002 Vision R-50 and the boom is grooved

Mine is a 2000 doesn't, they must have added it later?

I use to own a 2000 R44, and the boom was not grooved/indexed.

I believe when Vision introduced the "Instant-Adjust System" in 2002 they added an "index tab" to
the boom to allow for easy boom adjustment with a quick release.

visionrecumbents.comInstant%20Adjust%20System.pdfOpen ↗

Rick Moll

If I had the non-grooved version, I'd drill two holes 180-degrees and two-inches apart and clamp the
tubes together to eliminate the scary-twisting.

Dean Arthur <[email hidden]> wrote in news:3F329312.C6336F1 @silverstar.com:

Quoted message said:

If I had the non-grooved version, I'd drill two holes 180-degrees and two-inches apart and clamp
the tubes together to eliminate the scary-twisting.

It is pretty scary. I'm glad it happened as I was taking off rather than while moving.

I ended up drilling a hole through both booms, and pinning them together with a 1/4" bolt. If I need
to adjust it, I'll lengthen the pedal boom's hole into a slot.

Most everything is going well; I took it for a spin around the block today. I need to strengthen the
handlebar pivot, right now the bars twist around the boom axis too easily. Doesn't affect the
steering, but it's darn disconcerting to have one grip in my lap and the other down by the ground.
I'll probably have to pay another visit to my welder, and permanently attach the u-bolt that holds
the bars to the pivot.

Neighbor kids down the street were going "Wow, look at that, that's cool" before I even got out of
the driveway. 🙂 Meanwhile, I'm thinking "Criminy, I'm out of shape". 🙁

I talked to a friend who does photography, he said he'll take pictures of the beast this weekend if
I give him beer. I should have some photos available soon, and you'll get to see just how ugly it
is. (Not Aztek ugly, just ugly.)

-Bill Hamilton

"Dean Arthur" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

If I had the non-grooved version, I'd drill two holes 180-degrees and two-inches apart and clamp
the tubes together to eliminate the scary-twisting.

I haven't had any twisting problems with the non-grooved version, only time it twisted (barely) was
when I went down once