Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Converting Mtn. Frame to Winter/Cross Type Bike

Started by tlarwa · · Last activity · 10 posts · 484 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
18 August 2005
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20 August 2005
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tlarwa
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  1. What are the problems with trying to set up a mountain bike frame as a
    winter-type road bike? I have a Schwinn mtn. bike that I never ride
    (aluminum frame, few years old) and I'd like to try to make use of the
    frame. I have a complete Ultegra group that I can put on it, so that's not
    an issue. From what I can think of, the issues are:

    Fork - I'd replace the front shock with a steel or carbon cyclocross fork
    with canti bosses
    Wheels - I'd probably replace the tires with something more suitable to
    winter road riding (suggestions?)
    Bars/stem - I'm assuming I can set this up top get myself into the right
    position with road bars, can't I? The bike is sized for me as a mtn. bike.
    Brakeset - To be able to use the Ultegra brifters, I'd install a set of
    cantis (assuming it has v-brakes on it now ... I have to check). Comments
    on this?

    Any other issues/pitfalls? I know it's not the most elegant solution, but
    it'd be cheap, and probably good enough to get me outside in the Wisconsin
    winter. I don't really care for riding a mtn. bike set-up on the road,
    plus, I think it's be fun to screw around with this project (something to
    do).

    Any comments/suggestions, or is this a stupid/unworkable idea?

  2. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    tlarwa said:

    What are the problems with trying to set up a mountain bike frame as a
    winter-type road bike? I have a Schwinn mtn. bike that I never ride
    (aluminum frame, few years old) and I'd like to try to make use of the
    frame. I have a complete Ultegra group that I can put on it, so that's not
    an issue. From what I can think of, the issues are:

    Fork - I'd replace the front shock with a steel or carbon cyclocross fork
    with canti bosses

    _ I would avoid "cyclocross" since that almost always means 700c
    wheels. You need a suspension corrected rigid MTB fork so the
    brakes will be in the correct place and the head tube at a
    comfortable angle.

    Quoted message said:

    Wheels - I'd probably replace the tires with something more suitable to
    winter road riding (suggestions?)

    _ I use Avocet Cross II's on mine, but those are hard to find and
    relatively expensive. Any 1.5 or smaller slick 26" tire would be
    fine.

    Quoted message said:

    Bars/stem - I'm assuming I can set this up top get myself into the right
    position with road bars, can't I? The bike is sized for me as a
    mtn. bike.

    _ Recent MTB's are sized with pretty long top tube lengths. It
    could work but I would double check this first before doing
    anything. You can compensate for a short top tube with a
    longer stem, but you don't have many options to make a long
    top tube shorter.

    Quoted message said:

    Brakeset - To be able to use the Ultegra brifters, I'd install a set of
    cantis (assuming it has v-brakes on it now ... I have to check). Comments
    on this?

    _ You can get a device to allow you to use V-brakes with those
    levers. I have no idea how well it works in practice. You'll also
    likely have to mess around with the front derailler since the
    Ultegra brifter has the wrong indexing for an MTB derailler. The
    rear should work fine.

    Quoted message said:


    Any other issues/pitfalls? I know it's not the most elegant solution, but
    it'd be cheap.

    _ Converting a bike is never cheap. If you look around you can
    probably get a usable cross or touring bike for around $500.
    You are already looking at nearly that or more. I'm not saying
    don't do it, a road bike with really fat slick tires is
    a lot of fun. Just don't kid yourself about the cost...

    Quoted message said:

    and probably good enough to get me outside in the Wisconsin
    winter. I don't really care for riding a mtn. bike set-up on the road,
    plus, I think it's be fun to screw around with this project (something to
    do).

    Any comments/suggestions, or is this a stupid/unworkable idea?

    _ If it were me. I'd take a long look at the Surly Long Haul
    trucker in the smaller sizes that use 26" wheels. Between the MTB
    and the Ultegra group you should have nearly all the components
    you need.

    _ Another option would be to swap out the flat bar for
    some "trekking" or butterfly bars. Nashbar sells these
    pretty cheap and you don't need new shifters or brake levers.
    That and some light 26" slicks would get you going.
    You'd only be out a few $$ and some time. If you like
    it you could then get the solid fork.

    _ Booker C. Bense

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  3. tlarwa said:

    Any comments/suggestions, or is this a stupid/unworkable idea?

    Fork: Nashbar rigid cromo mtb fork $65
    Bars: Whatever's on sale: 25
    Stem: Whatever's on sale: 25
    Brake levers: Tektro: 15
    Tape: 10
    Tires: 30

    So it starts to add up little by little...

    Easy enough to do--but are you wanting to retain your derailleurs? Then we
    have to figure out a way to shift--as the mtb shifters won't be compatible
    with road bars.

  4. I have bars and several stems to play with. I planned on using the Ultegra
    8-speed derailleurs (F and R) and brifters that I have laying around. I
    figured I's have to buy canti's though, correct? Tektro's seem to be a
    good, cheap way to go.
    "maxo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    tlarwa said:

    Any comments/suggestions, or is this a stupid/unworkable idea?

    Fork: Nashbar rigid cromo mtb fork $65
    Bars: Whatever's on sale: 25
    Stem: Whatever's on sale: 25
    Brake levers: Tektro: 15
    Tape: 10
    Tires: 30

    So it starts to add up little by little...

    Easy enough to do--but are you wanting to retain your derailleurs? Then we
    have to figure out a way to shift--as the mtb shifters won't be compatible
    with road bars.

  5. viscosities tend to be an issue

  6. tlarwa said:

    I figured I's have to buy canti's though, correct? Tektro's seem
    to be a good, cheap way to go.

    Think it was mentioned in a recent thread that the mini-v brakes by Tektro
    will handle road levers just fine--might be worth a look. 🙂 The price is
    right.

  7. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    tlarwa said:

    I have bars and several stems to play with. I planned on using the Ultegra
    8-speed derailleurs (F and R) and brifters that I have laying around. I
    figured I's have to buy canti's though, correct? Tektro's seem to be a
    good, cheap way to go.

    _ Check the heal clearance before you buy the canti's. V-brakes
    were largely invented to allow "compact" style frame building on
    MTB's.

    _ Booker C. Bense

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  8. the coldness is to be assumed. dry lubes. no lube plastics in
    housings/cables, plastic bushings
    in derays no lube or inexpensive metal to metal models with dry lubes
    zero weight grease in the hubs-search google-there are companies to
    provide such-mil spec antartica
    and a nice set of bar pogies.
    see campmor.com for pre winter clothing buys-try the manzella sop
    stickup balclava-they send the email announcements
    campmor was giving gloves away in june

  9. tlarwa said:

    I have a complete Ultegra group that I can put on it, so that's not
    an issue.

    I'm assuming that you only want to replace as few of the MTB parts as
    you must, and that you are looking for a rugged bike with drop bars and
    brifters. If you really want to use all the Ultegra parts, there will
    be more problems...

    Quoted message said:

    Fork - I'd replace the front shock with a steel or carbon cyclocross fork
    with canti bosses

    Won't work if you are using 26 inch MTB wheels.

    Tange suspension corrected steel MTB fork, about $50. It will still be
    shorter than the suspension fork, but close if your previous fork was
    in the under 75mm travel range. I put one on a 100mm travel bike, and
    the angles steepened by 2+ degrees, and with narrow slicks the pedals
    were too close to the ground.

    Quoted message said:

    Bars/stem - I'm assuming I can set this up top get myself into the right
    position with road bars, can't I?

    You'll probably want a short stem because of the long TT on most MTB's,
    but it shouldn't be a problem.

    Quoted message said:

    Brakeset - To be able to use the Ultegra brifters, I'd install a set of
    cantis (assuming it has v-brakes on it now ... I have to check). Comments
    on this?

    I recall seeing doodads available that allow you to use brifters and
    v-brakes... but I don't remember the name.

    Quoted message said:

    Any comments/suggestions, or is this a stupid/unworkable idea?

    A closer ratio rear cluster (maybe from your Ultegra?) would be nice.

    Is your Ultegra shifter a triple? If not I guess you could remove the
    granny ring, and get a narrower bottom bracket spindle if you want a
    good chainline, *if* there is plenty of clearance between the rings and
    chainstay. Now that I think about it, I don't know if the geometry of a
    MTB front der. is similar enough to a road one for them to be
    compatible, though.

    Or, you could use the Ultegra cranks, BB, and and front der. if you
    want taller gears. Clearance with the chainstay, chainline, and der.
    clamp size are potential issues.

    Good luck!

    -Ron

  10. Consider a minimal approach, just changing the fork (to susp-corrected
    rigid), probably the stem (to something w/o much rise) and definitely the
    tires (to a slick or semi-slick).

    Tires are the biggest deal - check out Michelin XCR for a total 26" slick,
    of XC-Hard Terrain for more off-road/bad road capability.

    Save yourself a lot of grief and stick with flat bars. You can get a
    decent riding position with the right stem. You may want to shorten the
    bars for road use (lop an inch off each end).

    Perhaps you'll want closer gearing on the cassette, say a 12-25 Ultegra
    (in which case you can shorten the chain by a couple of links).

    Lots of messengers ride around on bikes like this. They seem plenty fast.

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