Don't lose sight of the fact that the gap between a (true) 24 and a
(true) 26 is only 2/24 or 1/12 = 8%.
That means the wheel is only about 8% bigger, and only travels about 8%
further per revolution. At MUni speeds (usually under 10 mph) that's
less than 1 mph difference. Most MUni is not about big distance, and
most peope out to do big distance will choose a 29 or Coker, or put
shorter cranks on their 26.
A 24 fat tyre is about 26 inch rolling diameter. A 26 fat tyre is
nearer to 28 inches. the difference between these sizes is even smaller
- 2 inches is a smaller proportion of 26 than it is of 24.
Which leads me back to one of my general hobby horses that many of the
differences that people pay so much attention to are little more than
fine tuning. They are important but... 100 miles of riding hard will
make many riders 8% better than they were before.
My own recent experience is instructive. There are certain tracks that
used to be "defining challenges" on my regular routes - if I made them
without a UPD then that was good. Things that used to be a defining
challenge on my 26/150 are now easily achievable on my 28/110, or even
in some cases on the 28/102 set up. The obstacles haven't got easier -
I've just got better.
I recall a book called "Moving Towards Stillness" in which the author
compared traditional Japanese archery with modern western archery.
The traditional Japanese archer says, "I cannot hit the target,
therefore I will look to my technique, and practise until I can," where
the western archer says, "If I am to hit that target, I will need a
better bow, telescopic sights, balances and carbon fibre arrows." He
may have somewhat simplified his argument, but I think there is some
truth in it.
--
Mikefule - The first cuckoo of unicycling
Sumer is icomen in, loud sing Mikefule!
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