Campy Ergo "7-spd"

"richard" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well, it's really a Racing Triple w/Athena 9-spd levers and a 26-13 (nominal) cluster. The problem
is, it won't shift onto the two smallest cogs. The cable goes slack, and it will occasionally go
to the 14. However, it only goes onto the 13 if I put it on a stand and pull the body outward with
a hand. (Tricky to do while riding a steep downhill!)

The cable does not appear to be binding, and there's slack in it. I've tried blasting the pivots
with silicon lube. No changes. It's never fallen on the derailleur side (or had anything else that
might have

knocked

Quoted message said:

things out of alignment).

If getting the hanger alignment checked comes out all right, what do I try next?

Shift to high gear ( even if you have to pull the rear derailleur out by hand) and sight the cage
from behind against the chainrings. Should be parallel. If not, you'll need to realign the
derailleur mounting tab as you suspected.

If that looks OK, disconnect the gear wire. See if the outer limit screw is set properly. It sounds
as if you could have some dirt or corrosion in the body pivots.

Try cleaning the pivots as well as possible and then try a penetrating lubricant such as the
excellent Riock-N-Roll Extreme in the blue bottle. That stuff finds its way into binding assemblies
in an uncannily effective manner.

Then try shifting with your thumb ( leave the wire disconnected) so you know the changer works well
and both limits are set properly before attaching the control wire.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Richard McClary said:

Quoted message said:

Well, it's really a Racing Triple w/Athena 9-spd levers and a 26-13 (nominal) cluster. The problem
is, it won't shift onto the two smallest cogs. The cable goes slack, and it will occasionally go
to the 14. However, it only goes onto the 13 if I put it on a stand and pull the body outward with
a hand. (Tricky to do while riding a steep downhill!)

The cable does not appear to be binding, and there's slack in it. I've tried blasting the pivots
with silicon lube. No changes. It's never fallen on the derailleur side (or had anything else that
might have knocked things out of alignment).

If getting the hanger alignment checked comes out all right, what do I try next?

Andy Muzi said:

Shift to high gear ( even if you have to pull the rear derailleur out by hand) and sight the cage
from behind against the chainrings. Should be parallel.

Actually, for some reason Campagnolo long-cage derailers are not designed that way. They come with
the cage splayed out at the bottom so that the tension (lower) pulley is farther outboard than the
jockey (upper) pulley.

First time I noticed this I thought the derailer was trashed, aligned the hanger and installed a new
one...same angle of the dangle!

I'm not quite sure why they do this, probably to keep the chain from derailing when pedaled
backwards in certain gears.

Sheldon "Not Parallel" Brown +--------------------------------------------------+
| The less you bet, the more you lose if you win | --Alan Rudolph (_Trixie_) |
+--------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 harriscyclery.comharriscyclery.comOpen ↗ Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
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r mcclary-<< Well, it's really a Racing Triple w/Athena 9-spd levers and a 26-13 (nominal) cluster.
The problem is, it won't shift onto the two smallest cogs. The cable goes slack, and it will
occasionally go to the 14. However, it only goes onto the 13 if I put it on a stand and pull the
body outward with a hand. >><BR><BR> << If getting the hanger alignment checked comes out all right,
what do I try next? >><BR><BR>

If the rear der deosn't go up the cogset and then quickly down, when pushed with the thumb, in a
workstand, cabe disconnected...the return spring is 'adios'..Can put a thin washer under the rear
der fixing bolt, to move it outward a wee bit but ya may need a new der...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Sheldon Brown said:

Andy Muzi wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Shift to high gear ( even if you have to pull the rear derailleur out by hand) and sight the cage
from behind against the chainrings. Should be parallel.

Quoted message said:

Actually, for some reason Campagnolo long-cage derailers are not designed that way. They come with
the cage splayed out at the bottom so that the tension (lower) pulley is farther outboard than the
jockey (upper) pulley.

Quoted message said:

First time I noticed this I thought the derailer was trashed, aligned the hanger and installed a
new one...same angle of the dangle!

Quoted message said:

I'm not quite sure why they do this, probably to keep the chain from derailing when pedaled
backwards in certain gears.

As someone who has had the honor and the privilege to throw a derailleur into the spokes on many
occasions, thereby ripping a Suntour VGT parallelogram apart, I can offer an informed opinion as to
why campagnolo does this.

If you have shifted successfully onto the large sproket, and you have a hub with narrow clearance
between the large sprocket and spokes, then it becomes almost impossible to shift from that gear
into the spokes.

By the way if you are in the second largest sproket, it is possible with the grand-mal shift to
sometimes get the chain up and over the largest sprocket and into the spokes wedged between the
freewheel and hub. For maximum effect I recommend doing this at 30 mph, as I did, resulting in total
lock-up of my wheel, and something that looked like the cha-cha as i struggled feverishly (and
successfully) to complete the stop without wiping out. This put 3" of "new rake" in my right rear
seatstay and gave me the chance to learn about bending dropouts back into position, and generated
some frame repair business for the local bike shop (Champaign Cycle Co.)

Anyway, if you've shifted into the large sprocket successfully, about the only way to screw yourself
is typically to catch the lower jockey wheel on a spoke. This can easily rip, for example, a
quasi-campy derailleur like a Suntour Cyclone apart. And this is incredibly difficult if the lower
jockey wheel is farther "outboard" than the upper jockey wheel, since the hub basically stops the
derailleur cage before the jockey wheel gets to the spokes.

Don Gillies - [email hidden] - Qualcomm, Inc. ece.ubc.ca~gilliesOpen ↗