soft shocks, adjustable?

"TJ Poseno" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Is there any way to get my POS wal mart dual suspension (single pivot) shock to take more? If I
come off curbing I can bottom it out no problem, I cranked up my preload spring, but it isnt
enough, it is still too soft. Can i buy stiffer srpings, I have a 750LB/in i only weigh 150lbs.
But the shock is at a near 45 degree angle. Please help.

You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
should find two numbers on the coil, you already found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example after
it shows the total travel of the spring in inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload as you
will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed. Which could
severely damage the shock or the frame. Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with spring size
just the leverage ratio of the suspension.

Mike

Quoted message said:

You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
should find two numbers on the coil, you already found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example
after it shows the total travel of the spring in inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload
as you will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed.
Which could severely damage the shock or the frame. Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with
spring size just the leverage ratio of the suspension.

Mike

I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new springs.
What would they go for.

"TJ Poseno" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

You might be able to find a Mountain Speed spring in a heavier weight ordered at your LBS. You
should find two numbers on the coil, you

already

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

found one, the 750lb/in and X 2.0 for example after it shows the total travel of the spring in
inches. Be careful cranking down on the preload

as

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

you will find the coils of the spring crashing into each other when the shock is compressed.
Which could severely damage the shock or the

frame.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Shock angle doesn't have anything to do with spring size just the

leverage

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

ratio of the suspension.

Mike

I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
springs. What would they go for.

Somewhere around $35-45 bucks.

Mike

Quoted message said:

I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
springs. What would they go for.

Don't bother if your bike is [censored] in the first place.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have had it up to when the springs hit. Its not pretty. So i can goto the LBS and get new
springs. What would they go for.

Don't bother if your bike is [censored] in the first place.

Yeah, the bike was $100 new, im going to maybe see if I can find some other way to stiffen it up, or
maybe modify the swingarm. Because if i go in the driveway and pedal hard for say a wheelie, the
rear sinks almost to the bottoming out point. Any ideas on how to stiffen it for cheao, since the
bike really isnt worth it.

Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the point i
had to use a hammer to get them out.

Quoted message said:

Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the point
i had to use a hammer to get them out.

Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must spend
no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price definitely
reflects the quality.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the
point i had to use a hammer to get them out.

Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must
spend no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price
definitely reflects the quality.

thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

Quoted message said:

thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

About those disc brakes... Beware.

I wanted discs really badly too a while back, so when I built my old bike up with a new disc system,
I thought I had it made. But I had 500 piece of [censored] miles before the pads disappeared. Plus, there
was no auto-adjustment for pad wear so I would have to add stupid shims underneath the pads every
100 miles. I couldn't even do stoppies with those brakes!!! I sold them for $2. Rotors and all.

I now run V-brakes on my MTB. They are SO much better than the discs I had, and they've scared the
[censored] out of some of my experienced riding friends who've ridden it. Given good rims and good pad
material, V-brakes are comparable to good discs.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i
want disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

About those disc brakes... Beware.

I wanted discs really badly too a while back, so when I built my old bike up with a new disc
system, I thought I had it made. But I had 500 piece of [censored] miles before the pads disappeared.
Plus, there was no auto-adjustment for pad wear so I would have to add stupid shims underneath the
pads every 100 miles. I couldn't even do stoppies with those brakes!!! I sold them for $2. Rotors
and all.

I now run V-brakes on my MTB. They are SO much better than the discs I had, and they've scared the
[censored] out of some of my experienced riding friends who've ridden it. Given good rims and good pad
material, V-brakes are comparable to good discs.

I know V brakes are good, mine are fairly good, just the springs wear out too fast. but i wanted
discs because im sick of messng with ajsutments, and if i have a out of true rim, i dont have to
worry about that pulsign feeling. I will have to test the bike somewhere before i buy one.

(TJ Poseno) said:

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Yesterday i pulled out the bolts that hold the shock to the frame, the were both bent to the
point i had to use a hammer to get them out.

Judging by the way you ride, you deserve better. It seems that you may be short on cash, so you
might want to invest in a low-end dual suspension that costs around $500-600. (Religious "must
spend no less than $1500 on a DS" people shut up) When shopping retail for a bike, the price
definitely reflects the quality.

thats what i am planning on, i have been eyeing the Mongoose Wing Elite, with disc brakes, i want
disk brakes very badly. Even if there mechanical, theyre better than walmart v brakes!

Just like linear pull (V-) brakes, disc brakes can be both really good or downright terrible. In
fact lousy discs will probably need more fiddling than lousy V-brakes. I'd strongly suggest getting
a Shimano Deore or Avid Single Digit 3 or 5 linear pull brake for your current bike - at least for
the front - and perhaps a nicer set of levers too (Avid Speed Dials offer adjustment for a decent
entry level price though I like the ergonomics of my Shimano LX's better).

I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the $500
price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on the
bike in order for it to meet that price point.

--

Chris Bird

Quoted message said:

I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
$500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on
the bike in order for it to meet that price point.

I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both
to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride
on urban assaults. A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to
huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Squid-in-Training said:

Quoted message said:

I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
$500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates
matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used
parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full
suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on
the bike in order for it to meet that price point.

I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both
to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride
on urban assaults.

But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him problems
in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is throwing the
thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5 lb XC frame)
and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it would allow him to
shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a department store rigid frame
and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that would come on a $500 FS would
cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the goofball riding his 8" travel downhill
bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned regardless.

Quoted message said:

A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to huck around
concrete curbs and metal signposts.

No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly bottoms
out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead he should
use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!) which will have
what quality of shock absorber???

--

Chris Bird

Heres what ive got: I have a Roadmaster steel dual suspension with a junk fornt fork, and junk rear
shock, I ride it every once in a while when going off road, mostly trails and some hardcore with
friends, its held up ok. 39LBS

I have a huffy aluminum hardtail with a ok front fork. Thats my daily rider, its got slicks in the
middle and knobs on the outside, so its mostly road. 34LBS

And a skinny tired road bike, mostly for long rides with no trails.

I want the wing elite for a much more reliable bike. I assume its more reliable then a wal-mart
bike. Something i can ride road (for training. sinice its DS and knobbies) and for trail riding.

If i did get teh bike, i might invest in a rear shock with lockouts. Its basicly a biek i can buy
for cheap, with a fairly nice frame, that in the future i can slowly buy better parts.

anyone knwo what the weight is on that bike

"Chris B." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Squid-in-Training said:

Quoted message said:

I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the
$500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear
complicates matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500
in good used parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good
frame than a full suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that
have to be spec'd on the bike in order for it to meet that price point.

I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due
both to the bike being ridden and the fact that the

OP

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride on urban assaults.

But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him
problems in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is
throwing the thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5
lb XC frame) and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it
would allow him to shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a
department store rigid frame and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that
would come on a $500 FS would cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the
goofball riding his 8" travel downhill bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned
regardless.

Quoted message said:

A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too

valuable

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts.

No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly
bottoms out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead
he should use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!)
which will have what quality of shock absorber???

Decent quality isn't the issue here. Well it doesn't SEEM to be the issue to me. I think that the
price really is the limiting factor at this point. It seems that TJ wants another DS to replace the
current DS. And he let us know that he's got a HT too.

TJ, if you have the money, by all means go out and buy a DECENT bike from a bike shop. They will
have quality much higher than what you've ridden so far, and you will take it and not look back.

If you don't have the money, then by all means, keep your stable current with a new DS and your HT
and RB. Just be careful. But don't settle for Walmart bikes for your entire life. I was in your
position just a year ago. I decided to build up my first non-walmart bike out of parts from eBay.
When I was done, I said, "Holy [censored], I can't keep the front end down because it's so light! It spins
a bit faster and it's much plusher and I can do a few more tricks on it now that it's lighter."

Think about it. We all urge you not to dump money into superstore [censored], when it can be used towards
something that's pretty damn good. Ask a local bike shop if you can put a full-value deposit (in the
form of a personal check) down while you ride it for a day. Most won't let you do that, but at least
a ride in the parking lot will let you know what's available.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

The wal mart bikes i have now will definatly be the last. The road bike is a mid range (well i think
so anyway) road bike from a while ago, so its plently reliable, so i will keep that. But i will be
really happy when I finally get a real bike.