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Roller brakes: running friction?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 June 2005
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12 August 2005
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  1. Shimano says the following about their roller brakes: "Inter-M brake is
    different from conventional brakes in that the inside of the brake drum
    is filled with grease. This may cause the turning of the wheel to be
    slightly heavier than usual, particularly in cold weather"

    1. So they have running friction. Does anybody know anything more about
    this?

    2. They say that there should be 15 mm of play in the brake lever. That
    is a lot of movement. Perhaps the gap between pad and drum needs to be
    large to reduce the drag caused by the grease in the gap. Is that the
    reason?

  2. Quoted message said:

    Shimano says the following about their roller brakes: "Inter-M brake
    is different from conventional brakes in that the inside of the brake
    drum is filled with grease. This may cause the turning of the wheel
    to be slightly heavier than usual, particularly in cold weather"

    1. So they have running friction. Does anybody know anything more
    about this?

    Friction hasn't been a problem with the Shimano Nexus 7 roller brake that
    I have some experience of, at least not in London's winters (which aren't
    all that cold). The Inter-M roller brake is probably similar or better.
    Special grease is available to add via a port, by the way.

    Much more of an issue is the amount of drag in the actual hub gear system.
    Hopefully that's been improved in the Inter-M.

    Quoted message said:

    2. They say that there should be 15 mm of play in the brake lever.
    That is a lot of movement. Perhaps the gap between pad and drum needs
    to be large to reduce the drag caused by the grease in the gap. Is
    that the reason?

    I suppose so, but the play is only apparent when rocking a stopped bike
    back and forth with the brake on. You don't notice it when braking
    normally.

    ~PB

  3. I said:
    Quoted message said:

    2. They say that there should be 15 mm of play in the brake lever.
    That is a lot of movement. Perhaps the gap between pad and drum needs
    to be large to reduce the drag caused by the grease in the gap. Is
    that the reason?

    I suppose so, but the play is only apparent when rocking a stopped
    bike back and forth with the brake on. You don't notice it when
    braking normally.

    Sorry, I misunderstood what "play" you were referring to (there is some
    fore & aft play too). I would what Shimano are talking about: "lever
    travel".

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That is a lot of movement. Perhaps the gap between pad and drum needs
    to be large to reduce the drag caused by the grease in the gap. Is
    that the reason?

    Yes indeed.

    Don't expect it to be a powerful brake! Advantages, though: reduced
    cleaning and maintenance, zero rim wear, no need to have rim perfectly
    true.

    ~PB

  4. Quoted message said:

    Shimano says the following about their roller brakes: "Inter-M brake is
    different from conventional brakes in that the inside of the brake drum
    is filled with grease. This may cause the turning of the wheel to be
    slightly heavier than usual, particularly in cold weather"

    Having ridden on these hubs for over a year, I'm fairly happy that any
    effect is minimal and maybe only psychological. If I hadn't read the
    Shimano website, I would be blissfully unaware of any theoretical
    slowdown in cold weather.

    Quoted message said:

    1. So they have running friction. Does anybody know anything more about
    this?

    I took the front wheel off did some comparative spinning with a
    conventionally hubbed wheel. There wasn't a significant difference.

    Quoted message said:

    2. They say that there should be 15 mm of play in the brake lever. That
    is a lot of movement. Perhaps the gap between pad and drum needs to be
    large to reduce the drag caused by the grease in the gap. Is that the
    reason?

    As another poster observes, you don't get disc brake standard instant
    stopping with hub brakes but it is more than perfectly adequate.

    My only dislike about the set up is that you can't /see/ anything. I get
    these paranoid moments when I become convinced the brakes are dragging
    and out of adjustment. With conventional brakes, a quick glance tells me
    that no, it's not the brakes, it's me that is dragging and out of
    adjustment.

  5. Thanks for the replies. By 'play' I meant 'lever travel'. More quotes
    from Shimano:

    "Turn the cable adjusting bolt of the brake unit or brake lever so that
    there is about 15 mm of play in the brake lever."

    "The amount of movement in the inner cable must be 14.5 mm or more when
    the brake lever is depressed. If it is less than 14.5 mm, braking
    performance will suffer, and the brakes may fail to work."

    Perhaps that last sentence indicates that:
    friction -> heat -> reduced performance

    "If you apply the front Inter-M brake strongly while the bicycle is
    stopped and then shake the wheel, you will notice that there is a small
    amount of play in the brakes. This is normal, and will not cause any
    problems at all while riding."

    "The front Inter-M brake has a built-in power modulator which controls
    the braking force applied to the hub. Noise is generated by the
    operation of the power modulator when the brake is applied, but this is
    not a sign of a malfunction."

    Curiouser and curiouser.

  6. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    As another poster observes, you don't get disc brake standard instant
    stopping with hub brakes but it is more than perfectly adequate.

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it touches
    the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate brake should be
    able to lock up the wheel. If my bike had cantilever studs I would have gotten
    rid of this brake. Especially since I just found out the brake weighs over
    a pound.
    -----------------
    Alex

  7. Alex Rodriguez said:

    An adequate brake should be able to lock up the wheel.

    Shimano says that the power modulator (a clutch) in the brake "prevents
    the wheel from locking-up if the brake force is getting too strong."

    See their picture at:
    http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/cycle/seh/nl/en/technical_service/faq_s/city_and_comfort_bike/how_does_the_power.html

  8. In uk.rec.cycling Alex Rodriguez said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    As another poster observes, you don't get disc brake standard instant
    stopping with hub brakes but it is more than perfectly adequate.

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it touches
    the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate brake should be
    able to lock up the wheel. If my bike had cantilever studs I would have gotten
    rid of this brake. Especially since I just found out the brake weighs over
    a pound.

    i am looking at a ridgeback switch at the moment.
    i was trying to get one with disk brakes but they're out of stock.
    the guy in the shop said hub brakes are better anyway.

    are you saying this isn't true?

    what about hub gears (nexus 8) vs regular derailleurs (shimano deore)?

  9. "Alex Rodriguez" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it
    touches
    the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate brake should
    be
    able to lock up the wheel.

    Apply the front brake sufficiently and it will be able to :-)

    Seriously, the back brake shouldn't be doing much of the slowing anyway, so
    being a bit [censored] isn't much of a problem. Unless the front brake is also
    [censored].

    (This does not apply to tandems :-) )

    cheers,
    clive

  10. Clive George said:

    "Alex Rodriguez" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it
    touches
    the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate brake
    should be
    able to lock up the wheel.

    Apply the front brake sufficiently and it will be able to :-)

    Seriously, the back brake shouldn't be doing much of the slowing
    anyway, so being a bit [censored] isn't much of a problem.

    Agreed.

    Quoted message said:

    Unless the front brake is also [censored].

    Roller brakes can be used up front as well. It's one way to make you ride
    extremely carefully, I suppose ;-)

    ~PB

  11. usualsuspect said:

    the guy in the shop said hub brakes are better anyway.

    are you saying this isn't true?

    Depends on what you mean. They don't lose stopping ability in the rain,
    as many rim brakes/pads do. They last much longer. But in dry conditions
    they do not stop as well, and there is the weight and residual drag.

    Quoted message said:


    what about hub gears (nexus 8) vs regular derailleurs (shimano deore)?

    Same sort of comments apply. They are less prone to
    damage/fouling/fussiness than derailleurs, but adjustment is critical, and
    they are less efficient.

    I use a roller brake and a nexus-7 hub gear on my rain bike. Makes sense
    for that.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | You will say Christ saith this and the apostles say this; but
    _`\(,_ | what canst thou say? -- George Fox.
    (_)/ (_) |

  12. Alex Rodriguez <[email hidden]> wrote in
    I agree about the disturbingly gradual buildup of stopping power in the
    shimano roller rear brake (no clutch there, unlike the front). My bike
    has cantilever bosses, so I kept the 7 spd hub but went back to v-brakes.
    And that's one less cable to disconnect to get the wheel off as well. The
    thing is packed with grease inside, and I think that contributed to the
    rather draggy feel. Maybe it was just due to shedding the weight, but I
    gained pretty much one gear on the hills of my commute after ditching it
    (I got the thing in the first place as it seemed a reasonable idea for
    all-weather commuting in a rainy climate).

    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    As another poster observes, you don't get disc brake standard instant
    stopping with hub brakes but it is more than perfectly adequate.

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it
    touches the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate
    brake should be able to lock up the wheel. If my bike had cantilever
    studs I would have gotten rid of this brake. Especially since I just
    found out the brake weighs over a pound.
    -----------------
    Alex

  13. in message <[email hidden]>, [email hidden]

    (') said:

    what about hub gears (nexus 8) vs regular derailleurs (shimano
    deore)?

    Hub gears typically have /slightly/ more drag than deraileurs but
    require /much/ less maintenance. Consequently for a non-racing urban
    bike they make a lot of sense.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    to err is human, to lisp divine
    ;; attributed to Kim Philby, oddly enough.

  14. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    i am looking at a ridgeback switch at the moment.
    i was trying to get one with disk brakes but they're out of stock.
    the guy in the shop said hub brakes are better anyway.

    No, the Nexus roller brakes are quite poor. For a rear brake it is not a
    big deal. I would not ride a bike that had a front brake that is as poor as
    the rear roller brakes are. I

    Quoted message said:

    what about hub gears (nexus 8) vs regular derailleurs (shimano deore)?

    The Nexus 8 is supposed to be better than the Nexus 7. I regualrly ride a
    Nexus 7 and I can feel the difference between it and a derailleur bike. I
    am aware of this, but I like have the drivertrain in the hub shell, less
    maintenance. My commute is short, so it is not a big deal.
    ---------------
    Alex

  15. In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Alex Rodriguez <[email hidden]> wrote in
    I agree about the disturbingly gradual buildup of stopping power in the
    shimano roller rear brake (no clutch there, unlike the front). My bike
    has cantilever bosses, so I kept the 7 spd hub but went back to v-brakes.
    And that's one less cable to disconnect to get the wheel off as well. The
    thing is packed with grease inside, and I think that contributed to the
    rather draggy feel. Maybe it was just due to shedding the weight, but I
    gained pretty much one gear on the hills of my commute after ditching it
    (I got the thing in the first place as it seemed a reasonable idea for
    all-weather commuting in a rainy climate).

    Maybe Shimano will come out with a disk brake that will work with the Nexus
    hub. That would be ideal. My front brake is a Avid disk brake and it works
    well in all weather conditions.
    ----------------
    Alex

  16. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Apply the front brake sufficiently and it will be able to :-)
    Seriously, the back brake shouldn't be doing much of the slowing anyway, so
    being a bit [censored] isn't much of a problem. Unless the front brake is also
    [censored].

    Quite true, and the reason I still have this set up. My front brake is an Avid
    mechanical disk brake and it has plenty of stopping power in all conditions.
    ------------------
    Alex

  17. "Clive George" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Alex Rodriguez" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Adquate for what? I have a Nexus 7 and I can grab the brake till it
    touches
    the bar and it only slows the bike down a bit. An adequate brake should
    be
    able to lock up the wheel.

    Apply the front brake sufficiently and it will be able to :-)

    Seriously, the back brake shouldn't be doing much of the slowing anyway,
    so being a bit [censored] isn't much of a problem. Unless the front brake is
    also [censored].

    (This does not apply to tandems :-) )

    or long wheel based recumbents

    Alex
    Have you tried taking up the slack in the cable so the lever will not touch
    the bar?

    Quoted message said:

    cheers,
    clive

  18. In article <7ztwe.99435$9A2.35907@edtnps89>, [email hidden]
    says...

    Quoted message said:

    Alex
    Have you tried taking up the slack in the cable so the lever will not touch
    the bar?

    Yes I have. The rear brake still can't lock up the rear wheel.
    ---------------
    Alex

  19. Somebody said:


    Quoted message said:

    i am looking at a ridgeback switch at the moment.
    i was trying to get one with disk brakes but they're out of stock.
    the guy in the shop said hub brakes are better anyway.



    Alex Rodriguez plied again:

    Quoted message said:


    No, the Nexus roller brakes are quite poor. For a rear brake it is not a
    big deal. I would not ride a bike that had a front brake that is as poor as
    the rear roller brakes are. I


    Me neither, but as it happens, the front Rollerbrake is considerably
    _worse_ than the rear!

    Shimano puts a slip clutch into their Rollerbrake front hubs as a
    putative "safety" feature.

    Seems a bit bizarre to me that a device that reduces braking power could
    be considered a "safety
    feature" though.

    Some, but not all, Nexus front Rollerbrakes have annoying rattles in the
    cable linkage.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    what about hub gears (nexus 8) vs regular derailleurs (shimano deore)?

    Quoted message said:

    The Nexus 8 is supposed to be better than the Nexus 7.

    That's true, I own a Nexus 7 and two Nexus 8s. I just LOVE the Nexus 8,
    commuted on one of them this morning...

    (I left the Rollerbrakes off of all three of my Nexus bikes, don't need
    a weak rear brake that weighs a pound and a quarter. I use rim brakes
    on all three of these bikes.

    http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-competition
    http://sheldonbrown.org/raleigh-international
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    Sheldon "Space Technology: Planetary Gears!" Brown
    +------------------------------------------------+
    | If you don't want your message to get to me, |
    | insert **NO-SPAM** into my email address. |
    +------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  20. Sheldon Brown said:

    Seems a bit bizarre to me that a device that reduces
    braking power could be considered a "safety feature" though.

    I have no objection to the concept of modifying torque or preventing
    skidding. ABS does both and is considered a safety feature.

    I am only concerned about the implementation. ABS modifies torque if
    vehicle motion exceeds wheel motion and operates low or high friction
    surfaces. The Shimano system merely puts an upper limit on torque.

    Shimano quotes ISO 4120 and DIN 79100-2. This requires a weight of 100
    kg and a brake lever force of 100 N. I understand that the requirement
    is to exceed 2.2 m/s^2 wet and 3.4 m/s^2 dry.

    Shimano quotes a deceleration capability of 3 m/s^2 for the SG-8c20
    rear hub. Magura claims rim brakes can achieve 4 m/s^2 and discs 8
    m/s^2. It would be interesting to know the torque or deceleration
    values for the Shimano front hub.

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