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OT - Parking Break Testing

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
28 June 2005
Last activity
8 July 2005
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Bob Falooley
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  1. Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the car
    is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be wrong
    here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so I
    took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again. They
    seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test it.
    So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above, but
    instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car procedes to
    creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I apply the foot breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade? Am
    I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all?
    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it
    again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests
    unreasonable?

    --Falooley

  2. Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    Quoted message said:

    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    Your parking brake simply engages your rear brakes. You may need a
    tighter adjustment. If you rear brakes are drum brakes then perhaps the
    brakes themselves need adjusting by turning the star screw.

    If your car had a manual transmission you would have to *depend* on your
    parking brakes in such a situation.

    --
    Jerry

  3. Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    Quoted message said:

    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    Your parking brake simply engages your rear brakes. You may need a
    tighter adjustment. If you rear brakes are drum brakes then perhaps the
    brakes themselves need adjusting by turning the star screw.

    If your car had a manual transmission you would have to *depend* on your
    parking brakes in such a situation.

    --
    Jerry

  4. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks.


    [snip]

    I see your problem: You should have had them take care of the parking
    *brakes*.

    😉

    --
    Jim Seymour | "It is wrong always, everywhere and
    WARNING: The "From:" address is a | for everyone to believe anything upon
    spam trap. DON'T USE IT! Use: | insufficient evidence."
    [email hidden] | - W. K. Clifford, ca. 1876

  5. Runs With Knives said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks.

    [snip]

    I see your problem: You should have had them take care of the parking
    *brakes*.

    😉

    Well, he paid 'em to break 'em, so they broke 'em!

    --
    spammage trappage: replace fishies_ with yahoo

    I'm going to die rather sooner than I'd like. I tried to protect my
    neighbours from crime, and became the victim of it. Complications in
    hospital following this resulted in a serious illness. I now need a bone
    marrow transplant. Many people around the world are waiting for a marrow
    transplant, too. Please volunteer to be a marrow donor:
    http://www.abmdr.org.au/
    http://www.marrow.org/

  6. Jerry said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    It's bad on a hill. Do you curb your wheels on a hill at least?

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    Your parking brake simply engages your rear brakes. You may need a
    tighter adjustment. If you rear brakes are drum brakes then perhaps the
    brakes themselves need adjusting by turning the star screw.

    If your car had a manual transmission you would have to *depend* on your
    parking brakes in such a situation.

    --
    Jerry

  7. Jerry said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    I have an automatic too, and use the parking break because I thought it
    would be easier on the transmission.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it
    again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests
    unreasonable?

    Your parking brake simply engages your rear brakes. You may need a
    tighter adjustment. If you rear brakes are drum brakes then perhaps the
    brakes themselves need adjusting by turning the star screw.

    On my car, the parking break is definatly differant then the regular
    breaks, they have thier own mechanism. The mechanic showed me the
    rusted out drums (I think thats what they were called) when he showed me
    what needed replaced. They are only on the rear wheels.

    I won't do it myself, I paid good money for the "profesionals" to do it.
    I wish I had time to become a profesional mechanic, along with
    musician, pool player, lifter, and other endeavors. I don't know what a
    star screw is.

    --Derrick

  8. Bob Falooley said:
    Jerry said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    I have an automatic too, and use the parking break because I thought it
    would be easier on the transmission.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it
    again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests
    unreasonable?

    Your parking brake simply engages your rear brakes. You may need a
    tighter adjustment. If you rear brakes are drum brakes then perhaps
    the brakes themselves need adjusting by turning the star screw.

    On my car, the parking break is definatly differant then the regular
    breaks, they have thier own mechanism.

    The system is usually run by a cable but it still engages the rear brakes.

    Quoted message said:

    The mechanic showed me the
    rusted out drums (I think thats what they were called) when he showed me
    what needed replaced. They are only on the rear wheels.

    Sounds correct.

    Quoted message said:

    I won't do it myself, I paid good money for the "profesionals" to do it.

    If you paid them to do it I'd take it back and demand that they redo it
    for you :-)

    Quoted message said:

    I wish I had time to become a profesional mechanic, along with
    musician, pool player, lifter, and other endeavors. I don't know what a
    star screw is.

    --
    Jerry

  9. bc said:


    Jerry said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?

    Yes.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all?

    I have an automatic tranny and I never use the parking brake. I don't
    know if that's bad or not...

    It's bad on a hill. Do you curb your wheels on a hill at least?

    Yeah, I always turn my wheels so if something happens my truck will roll
    into the curb.

    --
    Jerry

  10. Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the car
    is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be wrong
    here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so I
    took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again. They
    seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test it. So
    I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above, but
    instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car procedes to
    creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I apply the foot
    breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade? Am
    I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all? Should
    I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    --Falooley

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    --
    spammage trappage: replace fishies_ with yahoo

    I'm going to die rather sooner than I'd like. I tried to protect my
    neighbours from crime, and became the victim of it. Complications in
    hospital following this resulted in a serious illness. I now need a bone
    marrow transplant. Many people around the world are waiting for a marrow
    transplant, too. Please volunteer to be a marrow donor:
    http://www.abmdr.org.au/
    http://www.marrow.org/

  11. spodosaurus said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the car
    is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be wrong
    here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so I
    took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again. They
    seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test it. So
    I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above, but
    instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car procedes to
    creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I apply the foot
    breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade? Am
    I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all? Should
    I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    --Falooley

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    This would seem to be the crux of it. Take a look here:

    http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm#Parking%20Brakes

    then go talk to your mechanic.

    - bc

  12. On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 04:04:03 +0800, spodosaurus

    spodosaurus@_yahoo_.com said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest.


    wrong. the proper procedure is to stop in drive, foot on the brake
    pedal, engage parking brake hard, neutral, foot carefully off
    brake pedal, let car settle a bit, foot back on, park.

    now, this is a pain so nobody does it. your drum brakes
    have a bit of give in them. expect the small
    movement.

    the proper TEST to see if a parking brake is adjusted
    correctly is to apply it hard, then shift into REVERSE
    and see if the engine can move the car. use just a bit
    of throttle. don't kill it.
    ....thehick

  13. Runs With Knives said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks.


    [snip]

    I see your problem: You should have had them take care of the parking
    *brakes*.

    😉

    If it's a Ford, that would be the correct term...
    --
    -Larry

  14. On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 18:26:55 -0700, "Larry Hodges"
    <[email hidden]> wrote in misc.fitness.weights:

    Quoted message said:
    Runs With Knives said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks.


    [snip]

    I see your problem: You should have had them take care of the parking
    *brakes*.

    😉

    If it's a Ford, that would be the correct term...

    Tsk, tsk Larry.

  15. "Bob Falooley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the
    car is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be
    wrong here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so
    I took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again.
    They seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test
    it. So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above,
    but instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car
    procedes to creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I
    apply the foot breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?
    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all? Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them
    to adjust it again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are
    my tests unreasonable?

    Couple of things. What Jerry said is right, at least for drum brakes.
    The parking brake isn't a brake at all, it's just a wire connected, at
    least in my day, to the front brake shoe on each of the rear drums.
    That's two brake shoes out of eight the car has, so you shouldn't expect
    more than 1/4 the stopping power of your regular brakes, less if your
    regular brakes are power-assisted in any way (which is pretty common
    these days). The reason for having a wire connected to a brake is in
    case the hydraulic system that normally works the brakes fails. After
    all, a leak in it anywhere can mean that when you put your foot down,
    all you're doing is forcing brake fluid out onto the street instead of
    actuating the braking mechanism of your car.

    Automatic transmissions have a parking mechanism and a hill-grabber as
    well - using either is just fine and will not hurt your transmission one
    bit. On a manual transmission, leaving the car in gear will use the
    compression in the engine as a brake, and that, while it does engage the
    transmission to bear a load, won't hurt anything, either.

    How well the parking brake works isn't much under your control - the
    only thing you can do is have the slack taken out of the wire so that,
    when you engage it, it engages as much brake as it can before the lever
    mechanism runs out of travel.

    How all this works for disc brakes is something I haven't a clue about,
    but I worked on a lot of cars a few decades ago and they all had
    parking/emergency brakes, and those brakes could all be adjusted
    relatively easily to work well enough to stop the car while moving, and
    certainly they could all hold the car on all but the steepest hill.

    In your place, I'd put in a call to a dealer who sells and services your
    brand/model of car, and ask them on the phone if the parking/emergency
    brakes actually work well enough to do anything. It might be worth it
    to get a second opinion here, if not from a dealer, then at least from
    another mechanic.

    I was into VW's in the 70's, even rebuilt a couple of engines, and was
    offered, but turned down, a job as a full-time mechanic by the place
    where I used to buy my parts - so don't ask me about cooling systems. 🙂

    -S-
    http://www.kbnj.com

  16. spodosaurus said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the
    car is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be
    wrong here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so
    I took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again.
    They seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test
    it. So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above,
    but instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car
    procedes to creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I
    apply the foot breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?
    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all? Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them
    to adjust it again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are
    my tests unreasonable?

    --Falooley

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    I took it to the dealer, It is pretty big, they fix the cop's cars there
    too. I figured they would be best, I guess not.

    http://www.atlantaairportchevy.com/

    --Falooley

  17. Steve Freides said:

    "Bob Falooley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the
    car is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be
    wrong here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so
    I took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again.
    They seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test
    it. So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above,
    but instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car
    procedes to creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I
    apply the foot breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?
    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all? Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them
    to adjust it again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are
    my tests unreasonable?

    Couple of things. What Jerry said is right, at least for drum brakes.
    The parking brake isn't a brake at all, it's just a wire connected, at
    least in my day, to the front brake shoe on each of the rear drums.
    That's two brake shoes out of eight the car has, so you shouldn't expect
    more than 1/4 the stopping power of your regular brakes, less if your
    regular brakes are power-assisted in any way (which is pretty common
    these days). The reason for having a wire connected to a brake is in
    case the hydraulic system that normally works the brakes fails. After
    all, a leak in it anywhere can mean that when you put your foot down,
    all you're doing is forcing brake fluid out onto the street instead of
    actuating the braking mechanism of your car.

    Automatic transmissions have a parking mechanism and a hill-grabber as
    well - using either is just fine and will not hurt your transmission one
    bit. On a manual transmission, leaving the car in gear will use the
    compression in the engine as a brake, and that, while it does engage the
    transmission to bear a load, won't hurt anything, either.

    How well the parking brake works isn't much under your control - the
    only thing you can do is have the slack taken out of the wire so that,
    when you engage it, it engages as much brake as it can before the lever
    mechanism runs out of travel.

    How all this works for disc brakes is something I haven't a clue about,
    but I worked on a lot of cars a few decades ago and they all had
    parking/emergency brakes, and those brakes could all be adjusted
    relatively easily to work well enough to stop the car while moving, and
    certainly they could all hold the car on all but the steepest hill.

    In your place, I'd put in a call to a dealer who sells and services your
    brand/model of car, and ask them on the phone if the parking/emergency
    brakes actually work well enough to do anything. It might be worth it
    to get a second opinion here, if not from a dealer, then at least from
    another mechanic.

    I was into VW's in the 70's, even rebuilt a couple of engines, and was
    offered, but turned down, a job as a full-time mechanic by the place
    where I used to buy my parts - so don't ask me about cooling systems. 🙂

    -S-
    http://www.kbnj.com

    Thanks for the informative reply. I am going to ask another mechanic
    about it, and then call the dealer (where the work was done) back. As
    you said if the parking break will not stop the car on a normal grade,
    it isn't adjusted. So I'll take it back to the dealer to adjust it, again.

    --Falooley

  18. bc said:


    spodosaurus said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the car
    is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be wrong
    here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so I
    took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again. They
    seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test it. So
    I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above, but
    instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car procedes to
    creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I apply the foot
    breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade? Am
    I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the transmission"
    like what would happen when you don't use a parking break at all? Should
    I bring the car in for a third time to get them to adjust it again,
    Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are my tests unreasonable?

    --Falooley

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    This would seem to be the crux of it. Take a look here:

    http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm#Parking%20Brakes

    then go talk to your mechanic.

    - bc

    Thanks for the link. I belive I have this type of parking break:

    "The other system uses a complete mechanical drum brake unit mounted
    inside the rear rotor. The brake shoes on this system are connected to a
    lever that is pulled by the parking brake cable to activate the brakes.
    The brake "drum" is actually the inside part of the rear brake rotor."

    --Falooley

  19. "Bob Falooley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    spodosaurus said:
    Bob Falooley said:

    Hey,
    Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the
    car is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be
    wrong here, I don't know much about cars).

    So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so
    I took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again.
    They seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test
    it. So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above,
    but instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car
    procedes to creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I
    apply the foot breaks.

    Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?
    Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    break at all? Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them
    to adjust it again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are
    my tests unreasonable?

    --Falooley

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    I took it to the dealer, It is pretty big, they fix the cop's cars there
    too. I figured they would be best, I guess not.

    http://www.atlantaairportchevy.com/

    --Falooley

    As a former automobile mechanic, yes your parking brakes should stop the car
    from moving FORWARD on a reasonable grade. Not true for backwards. This is
    due to the way the brake shoes are pulled into the drum (at least when I
    worked on cars). Also, you will not FULLY engage the parking brakes if you
    leave your foot on the brake when engaging the parking brakes.
    Make sure you are taking about forwards, and then try putting the parking
    brake on with your foot OFF of the brake pedal (the car in park of course).
    Of course, all of this is based on your ability to judge a "reasonable"
    grade of hill. Nothing I can do about that.
    --
    Dr. Dickie
    Skepticult member in good standing #394-00596-438
    Poking kooks with a pointy stick.
    "The most exciting phrase to hear in science, the one that heralds new
    discoveries,
    is not 'Eureka!' ('I found it!'😉, but rather 'hmm....that's funny...'"
    - Isaac Asimov

  20. Dr_Dickie said:

    "Bob Falooley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    spodosaurus said:

    Bob Falooley wrote:

    >Hey,
    > Recently I had some work done to my car including replacing the
    >parking breaks. My procedure for parking the car is, depress break
    >pedal, put in park, activate parking break, release break pedal. Now,
    >in my mind, the car should stay put, and not drift downhill an inch or
    >two and come to rest. When it does this I believe the weight of the
    >car is being supported by the transmission. (I could definatly be
    >wrong here, I don't know much about cars).
    >
    >So as this began to happen to my car, I took it in and replaced the
    >parking breaks and some other things. It seemed to make it worse, so
    >I took the car back in, and they adjusted the parking breaks again.
    >They seem tighter now, but this gave me the idea to try to really test
    >it. So I parked on a slight hill, and used the same procedure above,
    >but instead of putting it in park, I put it in neutral. The car
    >procedes to creak and creap down the hill, and won't stop until I
    >apply the foot breaks.
    >
    >Should the parking break totally stop the car on a reasonable grade?
    >Am I paranoid on having the cars weight "supported by the
    >transmission" like what would happen when you don't use a parking
    >break at all? Should I bring the car in for a third time to get them
    >to adjust it again, Imean I paid good money for them to fix this. Are
    >my tests unreasonable?
    >
    >--Falooley
    >

    Yes, engaging the rear brakes should stop the car. If it doesn't,
    there's something wrong. Have fun when inspection time comes around if
    you don't get this taken care of. While drum brakes are easier to deal
    with than disk brakes, if you don't know what you're doing get someone
    who does to fix them...the lot you've taken the car to don't seem to
    qualify.

    I took it to the dealer, It is pretty big, they fix the cop's cars there
    too. I figured they would be best, I guess not.

    http://www.atlantaairportchevy.com/

    --Falooley

    As a former automobile mechanic, yes your parking brakes should stop the car
    from moving FORWARD on a reasonable grade. Not true for backwards. This is
    due to the way the brake shoes are pulled into the drum (at least when I
    worked on cars). Also, you will not FULLY engage the parking brakes if you
    leave your foot on the brake when engaging the parking brakes.
    Make sure you are taking about forwards, and then try putting the parking
    brake on with your foot OFF of the brake pedal (the car in park of course).
    Of course, all of this is based on your ability to judge a "reasonable"
    grade of hill. Nothing I can do about that.

    I would hope my parking break will cover both forwards and backwards motion.

    I will try keeping my foot off the break and activating the parking
    break to see if there is any differance. This violates one of my
    assumptions (which steve pointed out as inccorect) that you should not
    have the weight of the car "resting on the transmission" What do you
    think about this?

    If in an automatic the car is supposed to be just left in park, and the
    parking break is not important, perhaps I should have had them replace
    it in the first place. I always assumed always using your parking break
    in the manor I stated in my OP would put less strain on the transmission.

    In any case the grade's I am talking about are very reasonable, any
    street water would barley run down.

    --Falooley

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